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Discussion in 'Small Form Factor Systems' started by SaperPL, Sep 1, 2014.
i think at this point any c7 would perform better than a rusted one.....
Haha, I do not intend on using the rusted one. I threw it away.
I am also looking into the ID-Cooling is-40v3 which seems similar to the C7. They're about the same price and TDP
The noctua is really a decent cooler for anything less than ~80W TDP. And quiet too.
Everything I've heard about ID-cooling suggests their performance claims are often way overstated. I've heard the cryorig is loud, but if you're ok with the noise of the C7 then get that. Or the NH-L9a. Either will be fine. Just get something that is known to work well to avoid more headaches.
If the copper c7 proves to be 10C better in cooling then just sell what ever cooler you have and get the copper one. No sense tolerating a bad cooler to wait for one that may or may not be any better than what you could have now.
in addition to that, some have found that its better to change the fan on a c7, you can get adapters or stick your own on it, there is some degree of performance/noise gain depending on the fan you use.
It's done! Man we're those Corsair cables difficult.
Complete build specs:
Ryzen 7 1700
16GB of Corsair lpx ram
Cryorig C7 with a 120mm fan adapter and Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM fan
Went on a business trip and have had the pleasure of being able to take this bad boy with me! This is a PC gamer's dream come true! Now to find a smaller monitor!
Still planning on taking more elegant build pictures soon, but thought I would share while it's still fresh.
Thanks Zaber team!
Business trip with ~24'' monitor? What kind of laptop bag you have?
He needs that IPad monitor (its a mod) https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/my-modded-ipad-display.2680/
Basically Ipad +$30 adapter and little DIY (pretty easy with a teardown video)
I travel just the same way!!! Though I found a USB powered 15" HDMI connected 1080p monitor on one of the Chinese websites (like Aliexpress) and it works great! If it works as planned coming up I'll have another treat for this thread!
EDIT: I keep this monitor in a laptop sleeve, fits perfect!
To Be CONTINUED...
Follow up to my build and the temps I am seeing.
So I have my cpu manually set to 3.6 GHz and with the Noctua Fan and Cryorig C7 during long gmaing sessions 3+ hours the temp hovers around 60C. I ran Prime95 and of course it hit 90C, but I think after keeping an eye on it while playing games I am going to try and get it overclocked to 4.0GHz. I did not test with the stock cryorig fan but if somebody wants I can try and do some testing with it. Overall I am happy with the Noctua fan mod it does use all cpu cooler height available but the 120mm fan helps not only cool the cpu but the surrounding components as well.
So it's relatively easy to modify the Sentry to use a PCIe bifurcation riser:
I'm using an Ameri-Rack ARC1-PELY423-C5V3 which I paid $58 for all-in.
As you can see, my GTX 1070 Katana fits perfectly with room for one more PCIe card. I intend to fill that slot with an Elgato 4k60 Pro.
The only necessary modification to the Sentry itself was to cut out the PCIe retention bar, which I did with a Dremel.
It just took two quick cuts, finished in less than 5 minutes tops, including the time taken to plan the angle of approach.
You should put another 1070 in there in sli. That would be neat.
Galax 1070 isn't actually SLI friendly in neighbouring slots as it's blowing the hot air through the slits in the shroud above the radiator rather than the bracket. I've explained this few times already. This card also isn't ideal for Sentry as there are no vents below the slot for this type of blower card.
Ryvaeus said on reddit that he's reaching 88 degrees c, which is quite hot.
It would be neat if I lived in Alaska, where the ambient temp would be able to keep the system running cool.
You suggest cutting a vent, right? I might just do that, but I'd like to figure out the best way to do so while maintaining dat ＡＥＳＴＨＥＴＩＣ
Haha! It was actually a 27" monitor! And thankfully it was a business trip that I could drive to with a company car. Admittedly, carrying a 27" monitor into my hotel room looked weird, I would very much love to obtain a portable monitor that I could use. Still on the lookout for one of those. Good suggestions? I've heard a couple of suggestions for ASUS brand portable monitors.
Also, thanks to Ryvaeus suggestion, I came by a Pelican 1495 that had never been used on Craigslist for less than half price! After some work with the pick-n-pluck foam, Sentry fits in like a glove and doesn't move a bit!
Attached is the datasheet for the monitor I bought. It has worked fine for me so far, my only requirement was IPS, 1920x1080 (couldn't find a good 2k), and USB powered.
The person I spoke with about ordering it was very responsive, and worked with me a bit to ensure everything was to my liking. This was my first experience with Alibaba too.
Here's their products
I had Ryzen parts lying around since the summer and finally assembled my Sentry. The build is finished - it's not working. Not even booting up. I have to take everything apart and start from scratch. Feel like crying, lol.
Can you tell us more about this situation?
Does it light up at all? Are you sure you have connected everything you need to? Can you show us some photos and config?
I've got that same keyboard/touchpad combo on my SFF PC. How do you find it to work with? Every time I use the touchpad, I end up clicking on something accidentally. It's really frustrating!
Thanks for the interest! I managed to find the problem - I made the stupid mistake (tired as hell today) of connecting the wrong 8pin cable to the CPU. I used the PCI-E one instead, lol, because the ones from cable mod are very similar.
The build is finished now and I just need to install a fresh windows. Going to post some pics and build log tomorrow when there's better lighting.
I'm not very impressed with the Noctua NH9i - it's nice @ idle at only ~36C (ambient 24C). However, on Prime95 FFTs it gets as hot as 80+C. The heatsink is not losing heat fast enough. I'm using the standard 9x14 Noctua fan that was attached, does anyone think the 12x14 would make any difference? I'm using the Grizzly thermal paste. CPU is Ryzen 1700.
I played around with overclocking but unfortunately the best I can get is 3.6GHz on stock voltages. I did try increasing the voltage and it was stable but idle temps skyrocketed 20C going from 40C to 60C. Anybody have any luck getting higher than 3.6GHz with reasonable temps?
I am running a C7 with a Noctua 120x15mm fan and under Prime95 temps reached that high as well. I would say that Prime95 is not a good measure, instead play some games for a few hours and use a program like hardware monitor to keep an eye on cpu temps. I find that my average temp is never higher than 64-65C during long gaming sessions. Glad your build is working now
I've had that problem sometimes, the most frustrating thing though is when it does the "Task Switcher" seemingly randomly.
So my big plan to have a treat for this thread didn't pan out so well. I had a business class flight from EWR to NRT recently and had this grand plan to hook my Sentry PC to my in seat power and game some on my 14 hour flight. That was part of the reason I bought the USB powered monitor. I have once successfully turned on my Sentry in-flight on an older United aircraft (before I bought the monitor), but the newer aircraft seems to not like my power draw (even though I'm running lower TDP components).
Can you tell us how did it go with the security before boarding the plane with huge chunk of metal and electronics in your carry-on baggage?
I fly to and from work every four weeks with my sentry and a gechic portable monitor in my backpack. Mostly flying domestic US but have had to go international to Bahamas before. 9 our of 10 times I haven’t even had to take it out of my bag for the X-ray (I have TSA precheck in the US which means I don’t have to take off my shoes or remove a laptop), but sometimes if my bag is more full they’ll pull it out and rescan it. I haven’t had any issues other than sometimes them running it through by itself and then some TSA agent stopping me to say “holy cow is that a computer? What you got in that thing? I’ve never seen one so small” and then I tell em my specs and we both nod about PC gaming being the best.
I have the GeChic 1503i and couldn’t be happier. It’s 1080p 60fps IPS. Takes mini HDMI and usb C for power. Slim enough to slide in my bag next to my sentry and not jut out. I’ve flown probably a dozen times with it this year and haven’t had any issues. They make a touchscreen and non touch screen version (1503i and 1503h). It’s pricey but I can confirm the quality, and the integrated stand is the best. I work on a ship and went through a storm and it never even slid once on my desk.
I was wondering why aren't you using a vertical stand and what are those communication devices in your 'hotel room' before I read this
lol I was thinking the same, makes a lot more sense knowing it is on a ship. Looks like a nice setup for shipboard life.
Oh yeah, just realized you can see in the monitor reflection where my life jacket and safety suit is (green signs) haha.
Rubber feet on the sentry never slipped either. I keep the vertical stand at home.
Quick question SaperPL, I lost 2 of the little rubber feet on the vertical stand when traveling one time. Can I order some replacements or is there an off the shelf solution I replace it with?
Haha I'm right there with MrNateTheGreat, I sometimes even look forward to the reaction from TSA (and the Japanese equivalent). I fly to/from the US/Japan every 45 days or so, I've gotten quite accustomed to taking the computer out on the Japan side and getting secondary screening (with TSA Precheck) on the USA side. I've seen the X-Ray image of what the Sentry looks like, it's mostly opaque. Due to that I totally understand why it gets secondary screening. So far my Sentry has been to US, Japan, Cuba, Germany, and the Middle East, with just a minor mark on the front when I had it in the bag resting against my Steam controller (rubbed some black on the front).
I actually had this same thing happen to my vertical stand, though I fortunately found the rubber feet and glued them back on with super glue.
Most of the people do not have any issues with those rubber feet, but we received a feedback from 2 or 3 of our supporters who travel a lot or live in a very hot climate, and they had to glue some of those feet once again. We predict it is a "road asphalt effect" between the glue and the rubber. It means that our glue or a rubber with standard or even very unpleasant conditions can work OK if they occur occasionally, but if you will leave them for a proper period of time in those conditons they could lose their typical characteristics (just like asphalt, which should be ok with the temperatures over 40 deg C, but if you leave it in 30-35 deg C for a longer period of time, it's surface can start melting). It is one of the explanations which could be right in our situation. Maybe if we would use some cheap glue, then it will be easier to find a solution, but we are using quite expensive Loctite 480 industrial grade glue which was designed to work with a lot worse conditions than domestic ones. For example in our office we are using 4 Sentry prototypes with the vertical stand with same rubbers glued with same glue. Two of those cases are travelling everyday from home to office and two are being taken once or twice a month, and none of them had any issues with rubber feet for the last 2,5 years since they (cases and v-stands) were made.
Some of our supporters are asking if we can re-design the stand and make those feet detachable so they could clean the stand more easily or even to find some other colour of the rubber (for example, to match the different colour of the power button or some stickers on the external surface). With this concept we would solve 2 problems at once. We are still gathering the feedback and we added this idea to our to-do-list, so maybe in the future we will make some improvements in this field, but it is still to early for that.
At this point, if you lost some of your rubber feet from vertical stand, send us your question via email and we will see what we can do
Thinking about this... You could make some grooves or rounded areas and drill holes to allow normal feet to be installed like with the feet option on the actual case?
Not sure if explaining it well via text on my phone. But maybe have 4 feet spots on the stand which are rounded and allow feet to be installed like with the normal case chassis?
Any time if i at airport i have special control about my Sentry. A lot of time airport employers wonder what Sentry is and control it about explosives
I work at sea too. I have Sentry on my 2nd contract now I carry with me 22" fhd display which i bought used about 50usd. I mounted it via 3m tape and it is ok. My Sentry is 2nd time in vertical position. First time i mounted it via 3m tape and now i have special metal L shape element to protect Sentry. I thougt about gechick monitor but it is too expensive. I pack my 22" to main luggage and protect it by bubble wrap. It weight only 3kg
Reading those comments makes me wonder how cool it must be for the Zaber guys that the fruit of their passion, the Sentry, is used all across the world and constantly travels, and is even sailing Glad to see that everyone is enjoying - I am too!
I was supposed to post pics of the build, but I just got special flexible SATA cables from delock, as well as the NF-A12x15 as a replacement for it's smaller brother that comes stock with the NH-L9i. I'm going to travel for the next few days so modifying the build will have to wait until after New Year's. I'll post a build log and stats then. So far I'm extremely happy with the case - the only thing I want now is a copper Cryorig C7 with hopes it's gonna shave off a few degrees.
I haven't been reading for a long time because I've been very busy with work, so please forgive me if this is a repeat topic.
I was in Singapore for training and picked up the Intel i7-8700k (only because i7-8700 and the i5-8400 were not in stock) and the Noctua NH-L9i because they were cheap especially with a bit of haggling and the tax refund for tourists. If anyone's curious, I'm 95% sure that I didn't get scammed.
My questions are:
Since I'm not manually overclocking, should I wait for the H370 chipset? If not, what's the best Z370 ITX board in this forum's collective experience?
With the i7-8700k, is undervolting necessary to maintain good temps in the Sentry?
Did anyone use Patriot Viper Elite RAM? Is it too tall?
Regarding the CPU fan, is it better to blow air onto the CPU heatspreader or to blow to outside the case?
Thank a lot.
H370 may not be available for months. Z370 may be necessary for undervolting. Iirc, the locked H-chipsets from Intel are totally locked, no overclocking or under clocking, no over volting or under volting. So I think you're best to get Z370, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Besides, the H series chipset is usually only $25-30 cheaper here in the US, so is it worth waiting a few months to save $30? Up to you.
As for Z370 itx boards, the Asrock Z370 are good (either model, they have two) as well as the Asus ROG Strix Z370 itx board is also very highly rated and has two m.2 slots which no other itx board has.
I have a i7-4790k in my Sentry with a Thermolab LP53 cooler (which performs about 10C better than the Noctua) and I found undervolting helps a lot! I'm running stock speeds (so 4.4ghz almost all the time in games) with -0.055v offset. Rarely see temps much higher than 72C. It's worth noting my i7 is also delidded, but no matter your situation, undervolting will help.
Can't comment on the ram. It may depend more on if you plan to use 2.5in drives. Without 2.5in drives you can fit almost any ram...almost. So ram is really big these days.
For the fan, it is designed to blow air into the fins of the heatsink, not out. It really only works with the fan blowing into the case.
The Gigabyte Z370N also has two M.2 slots.
Really? Cool, I didn't know that. I think I heard in some reviews the gigabyte boards cpu VRM isn't as good as the others but nobody will be overclocking in Sentry anyway so it shouldn't matter.
I know there were problems with the AM4 board, when I had my 8700k overclocked to 5.0 GHz the VRM temp was only 46C. I do have a top down cooler which I am sure helps.