SB Overclocking results?

i said it many times here, dont go over 4.6ghz

be happy with 4.4ghz-4.6ghz, its fast enough.
 
What is this Distance to TJ Max thing? I know there's one a few miles away from my house. They had a sale on my work shoes. :D

EDIT: Found out. [mantra]Google is my best friend! [/mantra]
 
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For what it's worth, I dropped my PLL voltage from 1.77 to 1.7 and it dropped my load temps by 5C. Stability seems the same far, at least through Linpack and an hour and counting of Prime Small FTT.
 
I got a stable x47 multiplier at 1.415 but could not increase it any further without BSODing. I did not feel comfortable increasing my Vcore beyond that, and I do not have the patience to muck with all the settings (used the Asus recommendation from Juan Jose) so I was satisfied with 4.7GHz.
However, I wanted a lower voltage if possible, esp. since temps were getting into the 80s with prime95 with 76-77 average. So I tried 1.39 and it worked, next 1.375 but it BSODed on Prime95 small FFTs. Same result with 1.38. Both had IBT work flawlessly btw for 15 runs.
I increased Vcore to 1.385 and it seems I found my magic combination. 2 hrs of both Prime 95 Blend and small FFTs passed flawlessly, so did IBT. My max temps also dropped to an average of 71-72 C with prime95 and 68-69 with IBT, sometime maxing out on one or two cores at 76-77.
I am happy with the results for 24/7, ~25% increase in frequency and almost 30% increase in the Physics portion of 3DMARK11 over stock both in Performance and Extreme settings.
P.S. I initially had higher temps, but reseating my cooler and applying a bit less thermal compound dropped the temps 2-3 degrees with the results above.
Also when I run prime95, I also simultaneously run MSI's Kombustor gfx stress test, a full Norton scan, LAN_SpeedTest, and a 720p video playback with VLC. I know it is a bit extreme, but I want a system stress test that exercises most of the controllers and peripherals. Last thing I want is some stability suprise in the middle of an intense game while torrents are downloading in the background and the drives are working overtime. Paranoid maybe, but worked great for my AMD OC for 5 years without a hitch.
 
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Can you guys really tell the difference between 4.0Ghz and 5.0Ghz? 4.0Ghz was fast enough for me.
 
Can you guys really tell the difference between 4.0Ghz and 5.0Ghz? 4.0Ghz was fast enough for me.

I saw a difference from stock turbo (3.7ghz) to 5.0 ghz when streaming with FMLE and playing some games, but 4.4~ is probably more than fine for that as well. It does speed up video encoding though
 
Currently running 4.4Ghz @ 1.345v. Workhorse computer so stability is key (negligible performance gains between 4.4 and 4.8 with Lightroom/Photoshop), I might try and push 5Ghz to see what vcore I can get away with. Idle 28*C, Load, 64*C (without the three AP181's, they are off for RMA, have a Noctua S12B doing the job of these, handy little fans).

Prime95 crashed PC after 30 minutes at 4.5Ghz @ 1.345v while web browsing, which I was a tad disappointed with. Ultra High LLC, VRAM 350, the usual :) My CPU PLL is at 0.65 I think, nice and low.

It seems this chip needs more vcore, although it comes from a good batch, so I'm told (L040B)

Will fiddle with Offset mode at some point to enable the vcore to drop when idle (seems pointless having the vcore locked while the multiplier (and hence frequency) drops). If I'm at 1.345 constantly, I want to be at 4.4Ghz constantly. Speedstep still saves wattage (idle @ 5.65w) though which is good for energy saving.

I'm not sure how to use Offset mode properly, any o/c gurus know the settings I need to use (1.345 at load)?

Would very much appreciate some advice.
 
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I'm at 4.7GHZ (47x100) 1.41v. I'm using a TRUE with a quiet 1200rpm fan so temps get up to 85C under load.
 
Until i get a new cooler, running 4.8Ghz @ 1.350v, stable.
Batch L041B204. A few others with the same batch are showing similar numbers.
 
Offset mode is way to go, but takes some time to get it fully stable. Those SB chips are different though. If you are stable under load, it doesn't mean much cause you may crash while idling. In this case, you would need to increase the offset and decrease the LLC.

I also noticed while priming the vcore never goes above 1.36, but while idling sometimes it jumps to 1.38..
 
I am running 4.5Ghz @ 1.355 volts. I was able to boot into windows at 4.8Ghz @ 1.375 volts and 5.0Ghz @ 1.415 volts. All passed intel burn test maximum at 30 runs, but the higher would not pass Prime 95 Blend for more than 2 hours. I wanted this rig to try folding so I wanted to be able to pass 24 hours of Blend. I am happy with 4.5Ghz, although during Intel Burn Test I noticed a large difference in Time(s)/Gflops between 4.5 and 4.8...4.8 to 5.0 was not a large difference for the difference in voltage needed. My main problem was that although I had pll enabled, the voltage would still drop too much under load. Using the Thermalright Silver Arrow temps do not usually go over 65 C under load.
 
4.4 seems to be the sweet spot without adding (much, if any) voltage. Fast enough for me. ;)
 


Doesn't seem to want to hit 5.0 for anything. Alright by me, really, I wouldn't keep it like this for 24/7 anyway.
 
Super pi 1m is barely a stability indicator. I mean im not one to fuss all over prime all the time but run something alittle more taxing. Even 3dmark 06 or vantage would be better. Oh and disabling hyperthreading is not recommended.
 
Super pi 1m is barely a stability indicator. I mean im not one to fuss all over prime all the time but run something alittle more taxing. Even 3dmark 06 or vantage would be better. Oh and disabling hyperthreading is not recommended.

I'd say its not any more a stability indicator than booting into windows. It will prime at that speed and do whatever else asked of it, but at that point I'd rather run less volts for 24/7. On F6 bios setting 50x multi reboots to 3.5 and then reboots again to 5.0 which fails to get into windows. Stopped there as I'm more interested in what I can get away with safely for 24/7 usage than I am in actually trying to push the limits. Kind of why I didn't push past 1.4V. I don't have the cooling or the budget to play.

As far as HT is concerned it may not be recommened but it clocked higher without it. I'm no expert and couldn't tell you why. Pushing it this far led me to a more stable 4.5 for 24/7 with HT and I am comfortable with that level of performance for the life of the system.
 
Yeah, disabling hyperthreading usually garners you a higher oc, but it really does help alot in the overall smoothness with this proc. So I will not disable it, and I could to get a higher than 5 ghz clock, but I won't. 5 g's with four cores and 8 threads is sexy. :):cool:
 
Some 3D testss with Giga UD7 bios F7f/F7e. For me both are better clocking on cpu and ram compatibility (I can clocked my D9 GTR) compared to F8x.

Single stage cooling

screenshot022k.png


F7f

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screenshot034u.png
 
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Very nice. 1.608~1.620V :( ... though your cooling setup likely costs more than the chip.
 
Very nice. 1.608~1.620V :( ... though your cooling setup likely costs more than the chip.
Its a Vapochill LS, I bought it in 2004 and still can hold new generation of cpu @ -20C. Its like my grandmother's electrolux referigerator with avocado color of late 60's....still cold all the way to early 90's before I junked it:D
 
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Its like my grandmother's electrolux referigerator with avocado color of late 60's....still cold all the way to early 90's before I junked it:D

Funny.

Question, are these vapor chills and other units like it something you can use 24/7 with full stability as in an everyday PC?
 
Its a Vapochill LS, I bought it in 2004 and still can hold new generation of cpu @ -20C. Its like my grandmother's electrolux referigerator with avocado color of late 60's....still cold all the way to early 90's before I junked it:D

I would hope so... since CPUs are getting cooler not hotter over time.
 
I would spend $600 - $750 on one of these units if I could get year after year stability out of it 24/7.

Would love to run my 2600k at 5.2 - 5.5Ghz

What has always turned me off was not many companies sell these and the ones I have seen, buyers complained of very poor craftsmanship and having to return their units. Also, from all the articles and pictures I've seen over the years, there is that clay you have to form around the socket?

I would love to find someone that could break it down in geek speak as to the pros and cons and answer the simple questions people want to know. Like daily use, power usage, condensation, build prep, maintenance, costs, etc etc
 
I would spend $600 - $750 on one of these units if I could get year after year stability out of it 24/7.

Would love to run my 2600k at 5.2 - 5.5Ghz

What has always turned me off was not many companies sell these and the ones I have seen, buyers complained of very poor craftsmanship and having to return their units. Also, from all the articles and pictures I've seen over the years, there is that clay you have to form around the socket?

I would love to find someone that could break it down in geek speak as to the pros and cons and answer the simple questions people want to know. Like daily use, power usage, condensation, build prep, maintenance, costs, etc etc
[H] extreme cooling section is one of the first on the net and most informative:)....http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=835569
 
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Maybe the chip just cant do x50 multi.

Well, it will post there, it just won't get into windows. I'm assuming it can, if I up the volts far enough. Two problems exist. First, I'm up against a cooling wall at 4.5 under heavy load to begin with. I could push it farther than that but under all the load I can give it I'm hitting 82C.

I could reseat the HS, lap, and do a better job with the paste and gain a few C worth of room I think. It won't be enough, though, I'd have to have better cooling and that's not going to happen for me right now. Real life wins.

Second, I'd have to likely go to 1.45V, and I've noticed something that when I set a voltage in bios it goes .02V above this initially and then .02V above that under load. Not exactly .2V, but close. If I set 1.45 or so, I'd expect to see 1.47~1.49, within expected operating range but not within my comfort zone for the cooling I have and the life of the chip. .01 overshoot puts me near 1.5V... If I'm going there I better keep it cold.

Unless there's something you guys can think of to get it higher with what I've got I think that's the end of the road on my current equipment. It might be BS, but I noticed that I could change the multi, reboot, go into BIOS and look at pc health to see what it booted the chip at for vcore. Set vcore .02V below this and reboot, usually works. Likely has to do with the internal values set at the factory. I can't prove it. ;)
 
Its a Vapochill LS, I bought it in 2004 and still can hold new generation of cpu @ -20C. Its like my grandmother's electrolux referigerator with avocado color of late 60's....still cold all the way to early 90's before I junked it:D

That avocado color is pure win ;)

Using refrigerant R507? That will keep it cold. Being seeing some people using low end off the shelf AC units to cool CPU's. The price range of phase change kind of explains it. This one guy did it with a goal under $600... I'm thinking to myself why have a homebrew setup to save $100, but whatever.

Nice results, just goes to show you can push these chips hard if you've got the right stuff.
 
That avocado color is pure win ;)

Using refrigerant R507? That will keep it cold. Being seeing some people using low end off the shelf AC units to cool CPU's. The price range of phase change kind of explains it. This one guy did it with a goal under $600... I'm thinking to myself why have a homebrew setup to save $100, but whatever.

Nice results, just goes to show you can push these chips hard if you've got the right stuff.
Yep. I purchased my Vapochill LS in 2004 from Sidewinder Computer, just always careful when moving it around.
I believe that when we put over the specs. Vcore on cpu, the capacity of cooling should increase too. Just to slow it eventual degradation
 
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