Ryzen 3950X, 3960X, 3970X Availability

Zarathustra[H]

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GN that did an alaysis on this - ram kits on the QVL often have subtimings set that are optimized and sometimes not exposed in the bios - meaning they will perform better because there are buried subtimings optimized for the kits. It was fairly amazing how much difference it made - 3200mhz kits that were on the QVL were performing on par with kits that were rated at 3866 but not on the list.
https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3508-ryzen-3000-memory-benchmark-best-ram-fclk-uclock-mclock


From the article:
"You'll notice going forward that the GeIL kit is always among the worst on the bench, but note one thing here: After refilming this twice for the Vengeance LPX kit retests, we also re-tested the GeIL kit for validation. It validated perfectly on the Gigabyte board, meaning that the GeIL kit remained in exactly the same spot in the charts. We then tested it on the MSI board, and found that MSI's board auto-configured better timings than Gigabyte for this GeIL memory to significantly improve performance. "

It was on the QVL for the MSI board but not the gigabyte board. I know a lot of boards for these have all of the subtimings exposed, but if you're more of a set docp and forget it, I'd stick to the QVL, especially for higher priced kits as otherwise you might not be getting what you paid for.


That is interesting. I never knew this. In my entire almost 30 years of building PC's, I've never even looked at the QVL.

I figured it for a "small list of RAM they have actually tested, but in general RAM is RAM." type of thing.

Oh well. I doubt the RAM I bought is on the QVL, but hopefully it will do OK.
 

vegeta535

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That is interesting. I never knew this. In my entire almost 30 years of building PC's, I've never even looked at the QVL.

I figured it for a "small list of RAM they have actually tested, but in general RAM is RAM." type of thing.

Oh well. I doubt the RAM I bought is on the QVL, but hopefully it will do OK.
It generally was fine as long it wasn't some super generic no name brand it would work. First gen ryzen was super picky and now with 3rd gen idt it matters much anymore.
 
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Zarathustra[H]

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That is interesting. I never knew this. In my entire almost 30 years of building PC's, I've never even looked at the QVL.

I figured it for a "small list of RAM they have actually tested, but in general RAM is RAM." type of thing.

Oh well. I doubt the RAM I bought is on the QVL, but hopefully it will do OK.

These part numbers don't exactly line up, but this stick of ram sounds very much like what I bought:

3600G.SKILL16GB 2Rx8 F4-3600C16Q-64GTZR CDS 16-19-19-39 1.35v vvv 213

I wonder what the difference between a GTZR suffix and a GVKC suffix are.
 

notarat

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That is interesting. I never knew this. In my entire almost 30 years of building PC's, I've never even looked at the QVL.

I figured it for a "small list of RAM they have actually tested, but in general RAM is RAM." type of thing.

Oh well. I doubt the RAM I bought is on the QVL, but hopefully it will do OK.

I've bought blind sometimes and it worked great while at other times it worked miserably...
 

notarat

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My O11 XL case arrived yesterday and my 32GB of RAM is being loaded on the truck for delivery today. and I'm still not ready to start the build...o_O

Considering the absolute shit-quality of the TT Water Blocks and 45°/90° combo fittings, I decided yesterday to replace my TT Radiators as well. About the only thing I'm using of TT is the tubes and the standard fittings.

The Rads are due to arrive Saturday...(Ordered a XSPC EX360 37mm thick and RX360 56mm thick)

If the RX fits with the necessary clearance in both places I want to place one, I'm gonna have to order yet another one, lol...so I'm probably not going to be done with this build until next year...sigh
 

vegeta535

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My O11 XL case arrived yesterday and my 32GB of RAM is being loaded on the truck for delivery today. and I'm still not ready to start the build...o_O

Considering the absolute shit-quality of the TT Water Blocks and 45°/90° combo fittings, I decided yesterday to replace my TT Radiators as well. About the only thing I'm using of TT is the tubes and the standard fittings.

The Rads are due to arrive Saturday...(Ordered a XSPC EX360 37mm thick and RX360 56mm thick)

If the RX fits with the necessary clearance in both places I want to place one, I'm gonna have to order yet another one, lol...so I'm probably not going to be done with this build until next year...sigh
Yes I hope I will finish my build the 3950x this weekend. First time doing hardline runs in O11 XL.
 

sphinx99

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Anyone running a 3960x/3970x on air?

I did for a couple of days using the BeQuiet cooler. It was amazing but blocked all but one RAM slot so I had to switch away. Still have the cooler, otherwise new, and don’t know what to do with it. I could see it work with lower profile RAM than the big RGB monstrosities I was using.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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My O11 XL case arrived yesterday and my 32GB of RAM is being loaded on the truck for delivery today. and I'm still not ready to start the build...o_O

Considering the absolute shit-quality of the TT Water Blocks and 45°/90° combo fittings, I decided yesterday to replace my TT Radiators as well. About the only thing I'm using of TT is the tubes and the standard fittings.

The Rads are due to arrive Saturday...(Ordered a XSPC EX360 37mm thick and RX360 56mm thick)

If the RX fits with the necessary clearance in both places I want to place one, I'm gonna have to order yet another one, lol...so I'm probably not going to be done with this build until next year...sigh

I hear your frustration. This shit takes time, especially these days when we have to work during the day and many of us have families at home :p

I have all of my parts at this point. One thing that is potentially holding me back is that the position of the socket and layout of the water block (in and out port) may make the tube that goes from my top radiator to the CPU block inlet a little bit short.

I might have to order more tubing, but I do still have a little left over from when I built the current loop 3 years ago I might use.

I still haven't built up enough of a comfort level to try Hardline tubing. It just makes me super nervous how easily it pulls out of the compression fittings compared to soft tube, and aesthetics don't really matter enough to me to risk giving it a try at this point.

Last night I got the nerve wracking part of installing the CPU into the socket out of the way. In all of my time of building systems I had never bent a motherboard pin until a couple of weeks ago on another project when I slipped, so I was being stupidly careful with this one.

I also installed my new M.2 SSD (Sabrent Rocket Phison E16). It feels odd to use a third rate brand like Sabrent, but apparently people speak well of them. From my experiences in the early days of SSD's, I had been in the "nothing but Samsung or Intel" camp. I hope I don't wind up regretting this.

And then I popped the RAM in just for fun. I may have to take it out when I install the water block, but I wanted to stick it in there.

IMG_20191219_003517.jpg


Things I have to do:
  • Flush/clean the new water block before install.
  • Drain/flush existing system (I'm doing new coolant while I am at it)
  • Do the actual hardware install
  • Fill, leak test, purge & case gymnastics
  • Decide if I want to just copy the image my OS install over, or if I want to fresh install everything
  • Get back up and running again

Does anyone know what the noise sensor is all about on the Gigabyte boards? What is it's purpose?

Also, my board has a poorly documented strange commenctor I've never seen before called F_U32C. Any ideas? Front panel USB C?
 
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notarat

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I hear your frustration. This shit takes time, especially these days when when have to work during the day and many of us have families at home :p

I have all of my parts at this point. One thing that is potentially holding me back is that the position of the socket and layout of the water block (in and out port) may make the tube that goes from my top radiator to the CPU block inlet a little bit short.

I might have to order more tubing, but I do still have a little left over from when I built the current loop 3 years ago I might use.

I still haven't built up enough of a comfort level to try Hardline tubing. It just makes me super nervous how easily it pulls out of the compression fittings compared to soft tube, and aesthetics don't really matter enough to me to risk giving it a try at this point.

Last night I got the nerve wracking part of installing the CPU into the socket out of the way. In all of my time of building systems I had never bent a motherboard pin until a couple of weeks ago on another project when I slipped, so I was being stupidly careful with this one.

I also installed my new M.2 SSD (Sabrent Rocket Phison E16). It feels odd to use a third rate brand like Sabrent, but apparently people speak well of them. From my experiences in the early days of SSD's, I had been in the "nothing but Samsung or Intel" camp. I hope I don't wind up regretting this.

And then I popped the RAM in just for fun. I may have to take it out when I install the water block, but I wanted to stick it in there.

View attachment 208581

Things I have to do:
  • Flush/clean the new water block before install.
  • Drain/flush existing system (I'm doing new coolant while I am at it)
  • Do the actual hardware install
  • Fill, leak test, purge & case gymnastics
  • Decide if I want to just copy the image my OS install over, or if I want to fresh install everything
  • Get back up and running again

Does anyone know what the noise sensor is all about on the Gigabyte boards? What is it's purpose?

Also, my board has a poorly documented strange commenctor I've never seen before called F_U32C. Any ideas? Front panel USB C?

F_U32C = (USB 3.2 Gen 2 Header).

The noise sensor listens for the fan noise. I would assume you can noise normalize with this to a particular dB level...like set all fans to 40dB

This is my first hardline build and I am really not impressed with the ability of the fittings to secure the tubes either...but I decided to give it a shot since my very first view of the O11 seemingly screamed, "Buy me, 2 hard line kits, and 12 nasty-assed RGB Fans!!!"

I have 4 of the Sabrent 1Tb units...my friend swears they are worth it. I took his advice. If they fail I'ma cut his car tires.


EDITED TO ADD: Nice layout on that board. One of my main criteria for my mobo was the 90° angle ATX connector (so I could tuck the wires under the mobo since I was going to stuff an eATX board in an ATX case) so as not to block the Radiator fans in the non-XL case.

Then I went and bought the XL...so I then had to order custom cablemod cables...LOL

I'd like to say this build is nickel and diming me to death, but it's nowhere near that cheap...
 
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Zarathustra[H]

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I'd like to say this build is nickel and diming me to death, but it's nowhere near that cheap...

I'm used to anything to do with water cooling doing that at this point.

My only saving grace is that apart from swapping out the CPU block, I'm leaving my loop mostly untouched, so no new fittings, bends, etc
 

Zarathustra[H]

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The noise sensor listens for the fan noise. I would assume you can noise normalize with this to a particular dB level...like set all fans to 40dB

Hmm. That is interesting.

I won't be using any of the on board fan control though.

If I had had a board this capable when I first built a water loop I totally would have, but now I have an Aquaero and a DIY Manual PWM override controller, so none of the fan control or temperature monitoring options do anything for me.

EDITED TO ADD: Nice layout on that board. One of my main criteria for my mobo was the 90° angle ATX connector (so I could tuck the wires under the mobo since I was going to stuff an eATX board in an ATX case) so as not to block the Radiator fans in the non-XL case.

Then I went and bought the XL...so I then had to order custom cablemod cables...LOL

I think my cables will all reach....

...I hope.

Otherwise there will be mid build drives to MicroCenter... Again....

The 90 degree connector may actually wind up being a problem for me. I'm not sure yet, but it's going to be pretty close as to whether or not it will interfere with my reservoir.

For reference:

64798_open.jpg


This is an old pic, much has changed since, but the relative location of the power connector and the reservoir are the same. I'm hoping everything will fit nicely with that 90 degree connector.

Time will tell.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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F_U32C = (USB 3.2 Gen 2 Header).

Interesting.

When USB3 first became a thing (with type A connectors) Corsair sold a front plate for their 700D and 800D so you could upgrade them and use the new front panel connectors.

I wonder if they will do the same for USB-C now that there are internal headers for it. I would definitely buy one for my 750D.

Heck, if I were better at machining, I would probably even try to make one myself. You know, mill out a hole and install the connector. The anodize coating makes that tough though. I don't think I could easily replicate the finish when done cutting metal...
 
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doox00

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They are both all completed now! 3950x system with 32gb of ram and a 2080ti and my wifes threadripper 3960x with 64gb of ram and a 2080ti. 3950x is in a Lian Li PC-011 WGX Rog case and the 3960x is in a white corsair crystal 680x case. I am happy with the results, my first time doing rigid tubing, its not perfect but I am satisfied with them. Was fun and frustrating at times.. had a few 3 and 4 bend runs, some of which took a few tries hehe.

3950x

3950x.jpg


3960x

3960x.jpg
 

Zarathustra[H]

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They are both all completed now! 3950x system with 32gb of ram and a 2080ti and my wifes threadripper 3960x with 64gb of ram and a 2080ti. 3950x is in a Lian Li PC-011 WGX Rog case and the 3960x is in a white corsair crystal 680x case. I am happy with the results, my first time doing rigid tubing, its not perfect but I am satisfied with them. Was fun and frustrating at times.. had a few 3 and 4 bend runs, some of which took a few tries hehe.

3950x

View attachment 208613

3960x

View attachment 208614


Very pretty!

Is that milk cooling? :p

I have to wonder. It has been suggested to me that all opaque coolants are for show only as they have microparticles that WILL gum up the system, especially the microfins in the blocks.

Is this not something you are concerned about?
 

doox00

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Very pretty!

Is that milk cooling? :p

I have to wonder. It has been suggested to me that all opaque coolants are for show only as they have microparticles that WILL gum up the system, especially the microfins in the blocks.

Is this not something you are concerned about?

I am concerned about it a little, it is ek cryo-fuel solid cloud white.. I first cleaned and flushed the radiators using mayhem cleaner stuff, then flushed the entire loop.. then drained/flushed with ro then put in the white coolant.. I read of people having problems and read others with no problems.. I think the people having problems may have not properly cleaned/flushed their system prior to adding the opaque stuff maybe, I dunno..but either way if it becomes a problem I will just clean it all out and put something new in it.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Interesting.

When USB3 first became a thing (with type A connectors) Corsair sold a front plate for their 700D and 800D so you could upgrade them and use the new front panel connectors.

I wonder if they will do the same for USB-C now that there are internal headers for it. I would definitely buy one for my 750D.

Heck, if I were better at machining, I would probably even try to make one myself. You know, mill out a hole and install the connector. The anodize coating makes that tough though. I don't think I could easily replicate the finish when done cutting metal...


Actually, who knew. Looks like there is a USB 3.1 upgrade kit for the 750D.

I wonder if it works with 3.2....
 

IdiotInCharge

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Actually, who knew. Looks like there is a USB 3.1 upgrade kit for the 750D.

I wonder if it works with 3.2....

Potentially; I'm still looking for adapters for the new USB-C motherboard header myself, have them everywhere and nothing to plug into them.

USB 3.2 doubles the bandwidth of USB 3.1, and for the short run inside an enclosure, not sure it will make a difference -- or if it does, if it's something that USB speed autonegotiation wouldn't just throttle the connection to USB 3.1 speeds to compensate.
 

notarat

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Hmm. That is interesting.

I won't be using any of the on board fan control though.

If I had had a board this capable when I first built a water loop I totally would have, but now I have an Aquaero and a DIY Manual PWM override controller, so none of the fan control or temperature monitoring options do anything for me.



I think my cables will all reach....

...I hope.

Otherwise there will be mid build drives to MicroCenter... Again....

The 90 degree connector may actually wind up being a problem for me. I'm not sure yet, but it's going to be pretty close as to whether or not it will interfere with my reservoir.

For reference:

View attachment 208608

This is an old pic, much has changed since, but the relative location of the power connector and the reservoir are the same. I'm hoping everything will fit nicely with that 90 degree connector.

Time will tell.


If the 90° angle ATX interferes, let me know. I can 3D Print a new Reservoir mount for you spaced over a bit for clearance. you can also buy a 90° L adapter for the ATX on Amazon and see if that helps. They're pretty cheap. I bought one to mock up how I was going to run my cables on this build. I don't have the link handy or I'd post it here.
 

notarat

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I am concerned about it a little, it is ek cryo-fuel solid cloud white.. I first cleaned and flushed the radiators using mayhem cleaner stuff, then flushed the entire loop.. then drained/flushed with ro then put in the white coolant.. I read of people having problems and read others with no problems.. I think the people having problems may have not properly cleaned/flushed their system prior to adding the opaque stuff maybe, I dunno..but either way if it becomes a problem I will just clean it all out and put something new in it.

I was going to go white dye on my system...but I was worried about the TT Fluid going bad since everything else they make is shit (when I buy it) so I decided instead to spray paint the tubes white and leave a clear line on the Reservoir.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Potentially; I'm still looking for adapters for the new USB-C motherboard header myself, have them everywhere and nothing to plug into them.

USB 3.2 doubles the bandwidth of USB 3.1, and for the short run inside an enclosure, not sure it will make a difference -- or if it does, if it's something that USB speed autonegotiation wouldn't just throttle the connection to USB 3.1 speeds to compensate.

I just did some brief reading. It looks like it uses the same protocols as 3.1, but just uses all four wires in the connector instead of just two as 3.1 does to double the speed? This would suggest that unless they have been cheap and omitted two of the wires, it should work...
 

Zarathustra[H]

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If the 90° angle ATX interferes, let me know. I can 3D Print a new Reservoir mount for you spaced over a bit for clearance. you can also buy a 90° L adapter for the ATX on Amazon and see if that helps. They're pretty cheap. I bought one to mock up how I was going to run my cables on this build. I don't have the link handy or I'd post it here.


Thank you, I will keep that in mind. Hopefully it won't be necessary though!
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Potentially; I'm still looking for adapters for the new USB-C motherboard header myself, have them everywhere and nothing to plug into them.

USB 3.2 doubles the bandwidth of USB 3.1, and for the short run inside an enclosure, not sure it will make a difference -- or if it does, if it's something that USB speed autonegotiation wouldn't just throttle the connection to USB 3.1 speeds to compensate.

From the picture on Corsairs product page, the connector looks like it would fit the 3.2 header, but I am not 100% certain.

I tried ordering one, but Corsairs page is having issues for me. I just get an eternal spinning "Loading" image when I try to check out :/

Doesn't look like Amazon or any other retailer has the part either.

Heading into a meeting now, going to have to continue troubleshooting later.
 

doox00

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I was going to go white dye on my system...but I was worried about the TT Fluid going bad since everything else they make is shit (when I buy it) so I decided instead to spray paint the tubes white and leave a clear line on the Reservoir.

hopefully the ek fluid is better! :)
 

tangoseal

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Man I am 100% going to get a plastic printer after the new years
They seem so damn useful
 

notarat

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Man I am 100% going to get a plastic printer after the new years
They seem so damn useful

You REALLY need to get one if you mod. Just being able to print something to test an idea with (even if it doesn't work out) can save you hours of frustration...

I skipped the purchase of cable combs because I simply printed my own...in my own style and color

Any peripheral mounts I need, I can design for free using Tinkercad and print in any color...I have a 6 SSD bay I can install in the case if I want...4HDD cage, etc

The fan I added to my HDD bay of the O11 took less than 30 minutes to design and now my HDDs will have an active cooling solution that isn't available from the Mfgr

I can cut the entire bottom/side/top out of the Dynamic (both the non and the XL) case and print a frame which accepts any thickness radiator/fan combo and restores much of the strength lost from removing the metal..(though not as strong as when the metal was there...)

If I want, I can design new case feet to raise the case for additional clearance...or accept RGB LEDs resessed in them to give the outside bottom of the case a "glow", or add wheels to the feet if I want to go that route...

Have butt-ugly beige/red Noctuas? make a hat for them that hides their color but doesn't impact their performance...

You know those EVGA Video card power connectors that move the wires to the end of the card for a cleaner look? make your own if your card is one they don't support...

Why buy a Vertical Video card mount from Lian Li when I can make my own in whatever color I want?

The possibilities are endless...(and it is this realization that can cause issues...you get so many ideas that you never stop building/revising/making stuff)
 

doox00

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Man I am 100% going to get a plastic printer after the new years
They seem so damn useful

3d printers are so useful, definitely a must have! I made and printed mounts/brackets for both my 3950 and 3960x builds.. use my printers all the time. Like mentioned above tinkercad is very easy to use to design things. I am starting to learn fusion 360 though, hopefully one day I figure it out :)
 
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kamikazi

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You REALLY need to get one if you mod. Just being able to print something to test an idea with (even if it doesn't work out) can save you hours of frustration...

I skipped the purchase of cable combs because I simply printed my own...in my own style and color

Any peripheral mounts I need, I can design for free using Tinkercad and print in any color...I have a 6 SSD bay I can install in the case if I want...4HDD cage, etc

The fan I added to my HDD bay of the O11 took less than 30 minutes to design and now my HDDs will have an active cooling solution that isn't available from the Mfgr

I can cut the entire bottom/side/top out of the Dynamic (both the non and the XL) case and print a frame which accepts any thickness radiator/fan combo and restores much of the strength lost from removing the metal..(though not as strong as when the metal was there...)

If I want, I can design new case feet to raise the case for additional clearance...or accept RGB LEDs resessed in them to give the outside bottom of the case a "glow", or add wheels to the feet if I want to go that route...

Have butt-ugly beige/red Noctuas? make a hat for them that hides their color but doesn't impact their performance...

You know those EVGA Video card power connectors that move the wires to the end of the card for a cleaner look? make your own if your card is one they don't support...

Why buy a Vertical Video card mount from Lian Li when I can make my own in whatever color I want?

The possibilities are endless...(and it is this realization that can cause issues...you get so many ideas that you never stop building/revising/making stuff)

What kind of hat are you talking about for noctuas? I'd love to see that.
 

notarat

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N4CR

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They are both all completed now! 3950x system with 32gb of ram and a 2080ti and my wifes threadripper 3960x with 64gb of ram and a 2080ti. 3950x is in a Lian Li PC-011 WGX Rog case and the 3960x is in a white corsair crystal 680x case. I am happy with the results, my first time doing rigid tubing, its not perfect but I am satisfied with them. Was fun and frustrating at times.. had a few 3 and 4 bend runs, some of which took a few tries hehe.

3950x

View attachment 208613

3960x

View attachment 208614

Beautiful builds. I like the 50x piping more than the 60x but the 60x hardware and layout is porn.

my wifes threadripper 3960x with 64gb of ram and a 2080ti
mel_gibson_-_ourguy.jpg
 

mirkendargen

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I am concerned about it a little, it is ek cryo-fuel solid cloud white.. I first cleaned and flushed the radiators using mayhem cleaner stuff, then flushed the entire loop.. then drained/flushed with ro then put in the white coolant.. I read of people having problems and read others with no problems.. I think the people having problems may have not properly cleaned/flushed their system prior to adding the opaque stuff maybe, I dunno..but either way if it becomes a problem I will just clean it all out and put something new in it.

I've been running Mayhem's pastel UV white for over a year (no flush) and can see no gunk at all in the fins of my CPU or GPU block. The key is to clean your components (especially rads) REALLY WELL before filling, and use premixed fluid.

In other news, my 3960x is at my house (I unfortunately am not until the 28th...) so that's another confirmed ShopBLT success story. They have 2 more 3960x's in stock right now and a big pile of 3970x's.
 

blade52x

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I got a shipping notification from BLT today for my 3970X. It ended up being over $150 cheaper there than B&H due to a lack of sales tax ($2050 vs $2203), and ironically I placed that order like 2 weeks after B&H order. I guess waiting literally paid off. I'll have to keep them in mind for future purchases. My Aorus Xtreme awaits!
 

kamikazi

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Zarathustra[H]

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hopefully the ek fluid is better! :)

I've had very good luck with EK's translucent fluids.

Two years on one run and everything came out clean as a whistle without any sign of corrosion.

I think after their nickel coating fiasco a few years back, they have been very risk averse with those things, so I expect theirs to be among the better choices.

I'd still be weary of any opaque fluids though.

We're there any warnings on the packaging at all about being "just for show purposes" or something to that effect? I have seen that on mayhem's fluids.
 
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