New Samsung 4k for everyone.

1922 update came in for my 7100. Downloaded it as I went to work, so don't know what it's all about. Was on 1918 previously.

You should be on 1222.4 by now (unless different updates come with different tv sizes?). This update downloaded for me yesterday.
 
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I ended up with a 48JS9000 also, and I'm loving it so far. I have dual purpose with it, work and play, and it is doing well with both. The only issue I have, and this is almost assuredly a driver issue, is that my 3 GTX 780 classified's seem to get buggy with really bad stuttering in some games going full screen 3840x2160 (no it's not hitting a vram limit when this occurs). I've noticed if the particular game allows locking the refresh at 59hz vs 60, the issue goes away, and it goes away if I disable SLI and run off a single card. I'm ready for nVidia to fix that... but I'm also ready to buy 3 titan x's for how absolutely gorgeous this display is. The color accuracy, black levels, overall PQ, motion, etc. is incredible... just blows me away.

No need to get three titans. The 3 way NVIDIA SLI is buggy (likely the source of your problems) and provides negligible performance gains. Get yourself a 2 x 980Ti instead for $1200 and save the $1800 for next years video card upgrade. You will get better performance then 3x780 and 4-4-4 60p chroma to boot
 
Witcher 3 will play fine at 4K on a 980ti. You will easily get > 30 fps on ultra settings.

Vsync at 60 on uktra or bust.

If a game drops down to even 59fps for a split second in a several hours gaming session, I consider it to have failed.
 
Witcher 3 will play fine at 4K on a 980ti. You will easily get > 30 fps on ultra settings.

Zarathustra[H];1041780024 said:
Vsync at 60 on uktra or bust.

If a game drops down to even 59fps for a split second in a several hours gaming session, I consider it to have failed.

I posted a thread in the Nvidia section on this exact issue I am having with my new Samsung at 4k res. SLI scaling is sucking bad for some reason. with my U3011 I was getting scaling/GPU usage in the high 90's. Scaling at 4k on my main card is in the 70% range and the bottom card is in the 80's. Needless to say, my FPS is is the high 30's to low 40's which sucks! Almost tempted to revert back to older drivers but hopefully the next driver will fix this issue
 
Zarathustra[H];1041780024 said:
Vsync at 60 on uktra or bust.

If a game drops down to even 59fps for a split second in a several hours gaming session, I consider it to have failed.

Sucks to be you
 
You should be on 1222.4 by now (unless different updates come with different tv sizes?). This update downloaded for me yesterday.

Ah yes, you're right. All these 9000 users throwing me off. Anyone know what changed? I'm probably imagining it, but feels a bit more responsive.
 

Thanks! Are you able to raise the TV from the desk at all with that setup? (i.e. are you forced to keep it at desk level or can you raise it a bit?)

And what's the maximum length of that arm? (i.e. if you were to mount it on the side of your table, how far to the left/right would it extend?)
 
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I posted a thread in the Nvidia section on this exact issue I am having with my new Samsung at 4k res. SLI scaling is sucking bad for some reason. with my U3011 I was getting scaling/GPU usage in the high 90's. Scaling at 4k on my main card is in the 70% range and the bottom card is in the 80's. Needless to say, my FPS is is the high 30's to low 40's which sucks! Almost tempted to revert back to older drivers but hopefully the next driver will fix this issue

Turn off AA.

Set water to medium.

Now you have 60fps.

Witcher 3 can't handle tessellation properly with multiple GPU, either crossfire or SLI. Setting water detail to high or ultra will cut your fps by 40% for no reason in SLI even though with a single card the perf hit is nonexistent.

When I have water on high or ultra my Titan Xs drop down to 40-50% utilization and 40fps locked. Single Titan X with SLI off gets 95% utilization and 38-40fps, basically identical to SLI Titan X with water on high/ultra). Turn water down to medium and utilization goes up to 90% and 60fps all the way (and about 70-75fps with vsync off).
 
Turn off AA.

Set water to medium.

Now you have 60fps.

Witcher 3 can't handle tessellation properly with multiple GPU, either crossfire or SLI. Setting water detail to high or ultra will cut your fps by 40% for no reason in SLI even though with a single card the perf hit is nonexistent.

When I have water on high or ultra my Titan Xs drop down to 40-50% utilization and 40fps locked. Single Titan X with SLI off gets 95% utilization and 38-40fps, basically identical to SLI Titan X with water on high/ultra). Turn water down to medium and utilization goes up to 90% and 60fps all the way (and about 70-75fps with vsync off).
Thanks for the reply, but before I upgraded my U3011 I was playing Witcher 3 maxed minus Hairworks AA at 2560x1600 and I was pegged at or above 60 FPS. Also, SLI scaling was always in the 90's on both my 980 Ti's. The scaling is the problem for me.
 
Thanks for the reply, but before I upgraded my U3011 I was playing Witcher 3 maxed minus Hairworks AA at 2560x1600 and I was pegged at or above 60 FPS. Also, SLI scaling was always in the 90's on both my 980 Ti's. The scaling is the problem for me.

What's your CPU? What's the usage when SLI? 4K SLI requires a ton more CPU horsepower than 1440P SLI.
 
Haha, Yeah, I'm glad I don't have OCD that requires 60FPS or ultra everything. I get to save that money for next years Pascal! :cool:

Its not OCD. It gets in the way of the game. When you suddenly have less responsiveness, or distracting tearing when load increases, which is usually right when you need it the most in game.

Doesn't matter for single player story driven games as much. I'd be OK at 30fps in those, but for multiplayer online FPS games, I won't even play, unless I can get a fixed straight 60fps line on the fps chart.

The game has to play predictably, and respond the same to input at any time, irrespective of load.
 
What's your CPU? What's the usage when SLI? 4K SLI requires a ton more CPU horsepower than 1440P SLI.

Agreed.

Normally with single GPU's upping the resolution has little to no impact on CPU load. With multi GPU solutions (SLI/Crossfire) however, the CPU load goes WAY up with resolution increases.

For a while I was running my CPU at stock speeds due to my old cooler dying. When I bumped it back up to 4.8Ghz I noticed a HUGE improvement in SLI at 4k in Red Orchestra 2. (I still need to get it back up to 5Ghz, but that will have to wait until I get my HG10 N980's, as right now GPU heat is being exhausted through the CPU cooler...)

Lower CPU speeds turn SLI into an underutilized, stuttery mess.
 
I really need to overclock my 2600K. I'm still running it at 3.4 GHz...with a Noctua NH-D14...lol :p
 
Thanks! Are you able to raise the TV from the desk at all with that setup? (i.e. are you forced to keep it at desk level or can you raise it a bit?)

And what's the maximum length of that arm? (i.e. if you were to mount it on the side of your table, how far to the left/right would it extend?)

That arm will not hold the TV up off the desk, its only good enough to let in rest on the desk flush and support it. It will extend out about 12-15 inches, I have mine pushed back as much as possible.
 
After a couple days of use I have to say the Sammy is pretty awesome :)

The massive screen(almost too big, 42" would be perfect) and picture quality are fantastic. Really gives you the feel of an IMAX screen in front of your face. That coupled with the glossy glass panel and amazing contrast and blacks(better than any other "pc monitor") make this an awesome monitor if you have the desk space.


Mounting it flush with the desk is pretty much mandatory IMO, I tried using the stand and its way too high up. Flush really gives you an immersive full FOV experience


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j5ZQz4Wl.jpg
 
After a couple days of use I have to say the Sammy is pretty awesome :)

The massive screen(almost too big, 42" would be perfect) and picture quality are fantastic. Really gives you the feel of an IMAX screen in front of your face. That coupled with the glossy glass panel and amazing contrast and blacks(better than any other "pc monitor") make this an awesome monitor if you have the desk space.

Mounting it flush with the desk is pretty much mandatory IMO, I tried using the stand and its way too high up. Flush really gives you an immersive full FOV experience

Its an excellent setup. Give it a few weeks and you will wonder how did you ever use anything smaller. Give it a 3 months and you will start wondering if you could have made 55 inch work =)
 
After a couple days of use I have to say the Sammy is pretty awesome :)

The massive screen(almost too big, 42" would be perfect) and picture quality are fantastic. Really gives you the feel of an IMAX screen in front of your face. That coupled with the glossy glass panel and amazing contrast and blacks(better than any other "pc monitor") make this an awesome monitor if you have the desk space.


Mounting it flush with the desk is pretty much mandatory IMO, I tried using the stand and its way too high up. Flush really gives you an immersive full FOV experience

So the big question that I have is, how does it compare to the Philips BDM4065UC? I was a close follower of that thread when you got that monitor and would love to know your impressions of each.

Also, thanks for the info on the mounting method! I just might do that as I've always felt that the top of my 48JS9000 was too high.
 
So the big question that I have is, how does it compare to the Philips BDM4065UC? I was a close follower of that thread when you got that monitor and would love to know your impressions of each.

Also, thanks for the info on the mounting method! I just might do that as I've always felt that the top of my 48JS9000 was too high.

The Philips is cheap, but you kind of get what you pay for. The JS9000 is leagues beyond the Philips in every conceivable way.
 
So the big question that I have is, how does it compare to the Philips BDM4065UC? I was a close follower of that thread when you got that monitor and would love to know your impressions of each.

Also, thanks for the info on the mounting method! I just might do that as I've always felt that the top of my 48JS9000 was too high.

Sammy smokes the Philips. While I actually think the Philips is tied in black levels(maybe even a hair better), the Sammy beats it in every way. Better colors, contrast, curve. and much more pop to the picture than the Philips.
 
The Philips is cheap, but you kind of get what you pay for. The JS9000 is leagues beyond the Philips in every conceivable way.

Sammy smokes the Philips. While I actually think the Philips is tied in black levels(maybe even a hair better), the Sammy beats it in every way. Better colors, contrast, curve. and much more pop to the picture than the Philips.

I wish you guys would tell that to TARDIS. He fought me tooth and nail claiming the opposite, when he didn't even have any experience with the Samsung. What a f-ing arrogant troll that guy was.
 
So, I'm still having issues with a high pitched fan whine from mt One Connect box. (which didn't exist on the prior two TV's I returned)

I'm on a live chat with Samsung technical support right now, and they are not being very helpful, even suggesting I go to my retailer to see if I can get a different One Connect box to test with...
 
Zarathustra[H];1041784451 said:
So, I'm still having issues with a high pitched fan whine from mt One Connect box. (which didn't exist on the prior two TV's I returned)

I'm on a live chat with Samsung technical support right now, and they are not being very helpful, even suggesting I go to my retailer to see if I can get a different One Connect box to test with...

Never mind, I take that back. They just needed some more prodding.

Eventually relented and are now creating a ticket to send a One Connect box to swap out.
 
I'd like to report that I love the TV so far, and I have gotten use to the larger "In your face" 48" screen. Games look great, and for the most part I am getting good performance. I did want to point out though that there is a trade off between using this Tv and my Dell U3011. I actually have the Dell set up for extended desktop, but I only use it for monitoring programs. I did mirror the desktops though and I can definitely say the Dell has superior blacks and colors are more vibrant then on the Sammy. The colors are a little washed out on the TV. I also verified that I have an actual Samsung panel by checking the SKU on the back.

I read that the Samsung's are VA panels, so I would have thought they would have better blacks then the Dell IPS. It's probably due to the edge lit display and the larger screen. With all that, I still say the Samsung is a great TV to use as a PC monitor replacement. I also only use PC mode as I like the full 4:4:4 Chroma and I don't really notice any difference in lag/response time between PC and game mode. I keep PC mode in standard and just drop the backlight a few ticks. What settings are the rest of you guys using?
 
I'd like to report that I love the TV so far, and I have gotten use to the larger "In your face" 48" screen. Games look great, and for the most part I am getting good performance. I did want to point out though that there is a trade off between using this Tv and my Dell U3011. I actually have the Dell set up for extended desktop, but I only use it for monitoring programs. I did mirror the desktops though and I can definitely say the Dell has superior blacks and colors are more vibrant then on the Sammy. The colors are a little washed out on the TV. I also verified that I have an actual Samsung panel by checking the SKU on the back.

I read that the Samsung's are VA panels, so I would have thought they would have better blacks then the Dell IPS. It's probably due to the edge lit display and the larger screen. With all that, I still say the Samsung is a great TV to use as a PC monitor replacement. I also only use PC mode as I like the full 4:4:4 Chroma and I don't really notice any difference in lag/response time between PC and game mode. I keep PC mode in standard and just drop the backlight a few ticks. What settings are the rest of you guys using?

Make sure you set up the TV correctly.

In the NVIDIA control panel select RGB Full (0-255).

Then in the TV control panel go to

Picture -> Picture Options -> HDMI Black level: Normal

Then in the Picture settings:
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50 (in GAME mode set sharpness to 0)
Contrast: 100
Back-light: Your preference (I run 20)

The following are my preferences but are very subjective:

Color Tone: Standard
White balance (2 point)
R-Gain +5
G-Gain +10
Rest 0
 
I'd like to report that I love the TV so far, and I have gotten use to the larger "In your face" 48" screen. Games look great, and for the most part I am getting good performance. I did want to point out though that there is a trade off between using this Tv and my Dell U3011. I actually have the Dell set up for extended desktop, but I only use it for monitoring programs. I did mirror the desktops though and I can definitely say the Dell has superior blacks and colors are more vibrant then on the Sammy. The colors are a little washed out on the TV. I also verified that I have an actual Samsung panel by checking the SKU on the back.

I read that the Samsung's are VA panels, so I would have thought they would have better blacks then the Dell IPS. It's probably due to the edge lit display and the larger screen. With all that, I still say the Samsung is a great TV to use as a PC monitor replacement. I also only use PC mode as I like the full 4:4:4 Chroma and I don't really notice any difference in lag/response time between PC and game mode. I keep PC mode in standard and just drop the backlight a few ticks. What settings are the rest of you guys using?

the DELL shouldn't have a superior picture than the Samsung, I would suggest getting a calibrator or adjust your settings, it can make a massive difference in image quality.
 
Make sure you set up the TV correctly.

In the NVIDIA control panel select RGB Full (0-255).

Then in the TV control panel go to

Picture -> Picture Options -> HDMI Black level: Normal

Then in the Picture settings:
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50 (in GAME mode set sharpness to 0)
Contrast: 100
Back-light: Your preference (I run 20)

The following are my preferences but are very subjective:

Color Tone: Standard
White balance (2 point)
R-Gain +5
G-Gain +10
Rest 0

I have everything set up correctly. Used the above guide so 444 Chroma, HDMI UHD and black level is set up. I didn't mess with the white balance/color point settings though. These are default
the DELL shouldn't have a superior picture than the Samsung, I would suggest getting a calibrator or adjust your settings, it can make a massive difference in image quality.

I'm at work right now, but I will post comparison pics to show the difference. I don't think I would get a professional calibration for this TV as for PC use it's fine. I'm just saying that what my eyes see-The Dell looks more colorful and has better blacks. As I said, I attribute this to the Samsung edge lit LED's and larger screen with close viewing distance. I will post pics when I get home
 
What do you think, guys ?

You probably didn't get any responses, because no one knows for sure, but let me give it a try:

What makes you think there are any benefits to having the U.S. firmware? Is it based solely on the differences in firmware revision numbers?

This is likely because the European and U.S. firmware are different part numbers, and it took Samsung more tries to get the U.S. version to where we are today, than it took them to get the European version to its current state.

I would imagine any image quality / lag fixes are equivalent in the latest revisions of the firmware for each version. If anything, the differences are probably language specific, PAL optimizations, and specifics to how the WiFi operates (if equipped) based on the differences between European and U.S. available WiFi frequencies.

It might work, it might brick it, but either way, I wouldn't expect any real improvements. If it works it might possibly be illegal as well, as it may run afoul of the european equivalent of the FCC due to WiFi frequency issues.

I'd just keep it as is if I were you. We have absolutely no reason to believe that U.S. versions are any better, and the risks are pretty high.
 
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Quick question.. I read this quote on AVforums review regarding the 9000 series specs. It says that the TV supports 10 BPC color...

The new panel also offers 10-bit colour depth and Quantum Colour Expression processing which uses an increased number of colour adjustment points to better map content to the TV's wider colour space. The Peak Illuminator allows the TV to take full advantage of its increased brightness and improved contrast ratio, boosting the brightness to 1,000nit without using additional power by analysing the image and converting energy from the dark parts of the picture to the bright parts.

In the NVidia control panel, the max color depth output is 8 bpc. Is this a hardware limitation for the current generation of gpu's? So the max my 980 Ti can output is 8 bpc but our TV's can handle up to 10bpc in SUHD correct?

EDIT-After further research, I do believe the cards can output up to 12 BPC albeit the content needs 12 BPC implementation support. Why is 8 BPC the only option I have in the NVidia control panel? I have all the other options set correctly-color depth 32bit, output format RGB, and range is Full
 
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Quick question.. I read this quote on AVforums review regarding the 9000 series specs. It says that the TV supports 10 BPC color...



In the NVidia control panel, the max color depth output is 8 bpc. Is this a hardware limitation for the current generation of gpu's? So the max my 980 Ti can output is 8 bpc but our TV's can handle up to 10bpc in SUHD correct?

EDIT-After further research, I do believe the cards can output up to 12 BPC albeit the content needs 12 BPC implementation support. Why is 8 BPC the only option I have in the NVidia control panel? I have all the other options set correctly-color depth 32bit, output format RGB, and range is Full


I was under the impression (and I could be wrong, old memories here) that the consumer nvidia cards maxed out at 8bpc, but that professional cards had the ability to output at 10 (or maybe even 12?)

I remember reading this somewhere years ago.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041786457 said:
I was under the impression (and I could be wrong, old memories here) that the consumer nvidia cards maxed out at 8bpc, but that professional cards had the ability to output at 10 (or maybe even 12?)

I remember reading this somewhere years ago.

The reason why I bring this up is because over on Guru3d they have a thread on this exact topic. Reading through the thread, I actually read posts where they show the option to select 12 BPC on Nvidia 970's and 980's. The TV's were Sony and Phillips models and the output was only 1080P though. this has me perplexed? :confused:


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