New and Improved Watercooling Sticky - Post Your Systems Here

Discussion in 'Water Cooling' started by zer0signal667, Jun 1, 2004.

  1. Killerxp100

    Killerxp100 Gawd

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    Cleaned out the rig today, almost three years still going strong. IMG_20180310_212427.jpg
     
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  2. TahoeDust

    TahoeDust Limp Gawd

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    This sexy thing showed up at more doorstep today...

    XUFZAym.jpg
     
  3. AthlonXP

    AthlonXP [H]ard as it Gets

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    First Custom loop build. Had a buddy help me out.

    Rig started as this:

    IMG_4542.jpg


    Working on the lop configuration:

    IMG_4567.jpg


    Setup the Drain port on a dual 45 degree angle. I might swap out the Y adapter to use a T adapter in the future:

    IMG_4569.jpg


    Finishing Touches:

    57204896229__BF9256E4-1923-4DE0-BB23-08C63B491016.JPG


    Finished Work:

    IMG_4570.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. alxlwson

    alxlwson You Know Where I Live

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  5. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    My Wife's PC, built into a Rosewill Cullinan case this past summer (Summer 2018). I did this as a custom hybrid hard/soft tube system. The hard tubing is glass and connects the permanent bits (such as radiators, pump/reservoir, flow meter, and custom soft-tube manifold), and the soft tubing is for ease of upgrading the CPU, Video, and something else since I have a spare set of QDCs in here just connected by a hose (this was originally meant for some Koolance MVR-40's for the VRMs and a chipset cooler, but the spacing was too tight in this case to make that work). I had to shoehorn these parts in here, but I like the end result and she's happy with it.

    She's running a Ryzen 7 1700 @ 3.8GHz w/Koolance CPU-380 block and modified CPU-390 AM4 adapter, 16G Corsair RGB RAM @ 3000, reference Radeon RX480 w/EK full cover block and backplate, Asus Prime X370-A mainboard, WD 256G NVMe SSD w/EK cooler, 1TB 2.5" HDD (Back), Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 PCI soundcard w/expansion card, XSPC Photon v2 270 Pump/Reservoir, Koolance FM-16 flow meter, a Koolance DCB-FM01 flow meter display, and 2x XSPC 360mm copper radiators. The manifold blocks, the G1/4 extensions, and all the soft tube fittings and QDCs are 10mm ID Koolance. All of the hard tube fittings are XSPC 14mm and the glass tubing is Mayhems 13mm borosilicate. Coolant is Koolance UV Blue. Fans are 6x Corsair ML120 RGBs connected to a Corsair Commander Pro, and there is a small generic UV strip under the reservoir. All RGB slowly shifts between cyan and purple in conjunction with her headset, keyboard, and mouse (all Corsair RGB). Everything is synced by Corsair's iCUE software.

    This PC is the second system using this hybrid glass and soft tube setup. I prototyped this type of setup 2 weeks earlier in my much roomier Cooler Master C700P system, which I will post next.

    WP_20190207_18_32_54_Pro.jpg
    Glass on - it's really dark and hides the bits I'm a little less proud of :)

    WP_20190207_18_30_37_Pro.jpg
    Straight-in open view so you can clearly see the tubing (most of it, anyways).

    WP_20190207_18_30_05_Pro.jpg

    At an angle to get a better view of how it looks - again, glass off.

    WP_20190207_18_33_18_Pro.jpg

    Front Panel
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2019
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  6. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    My system was re-built into a Cooler Master Cosmos C700P case a couple of weeks earlier than my Wife's system above and I experimented until I came up with the hybrid soft/hard tube manifold system I used in hers. My case has a lot more room in it, though :). My system specs are in the sig. I have pretty much the same parts in the cooling system as she does, with a few exceptions:

    1) I have a Gigabyte Gaming G1 RX480, which used a non-reference design air cooler on it, so I had to "build my own" liquid cooler for it using a Koolance GPU-220 generic block for the core, and 2 Koolance MVR-40 blocks for the VRM and MOSFETs. The RAM on it is naked, but it was before under the original cooling shroud anyway - it actually gets more airflow now...

    2) I have a Koolance CPU-390 cooler instead of a CPU-380 with a modded bracket.
    +
    3) My case has 2x 420mm Black Ice Nemesis slim copper radiators in it

    4) I have 1 Corsair RGB ML120 to light the interior, I am using RGB-free Corsair ML-140s on the radiators.

    and

    5) I am using Koolance Purple coolant.

    At the bottom of the case, you can see a HDD and a USB card reader. I've been using the card reader recently, and it sits well there (I just open the side to use it when I need it, since the side is on a hinge held closed by nothing but a magnet). The HDD is actually there as a stop gap until I get a replacement for an SSD that failed. It's just there for the time being.

    WP_20190216_23_30_03_Pro.jpg
    Out a bit so you can see the entire inside easily. Please don't mind the bit of dust - looks like I'm overdue for a hit of the ol' compressed air :).

    WP_20190216_23_30_17_Pro.jpg

    Closeup of right-hand side of interior, where the pump/reservoir lives

    WP_20190216_23_30_25_Pro.jpg

    Closeup of left-hand side interior, where the manifold and computery bits live

    WP_20190203_12_48_57_Pro.jpg

    Closeup of my custom job on that Gigabyte RX480.
     
  7. mord

    mord Limp Gawd

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  8. SticKx911

    SticKx911 2[H]4U

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    I feel like I need a flow diagram for that. I can’t decide if I like the manifolds or not. Definitely different.
     
  9. Nobu

    Nobu 2[H]4U

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    Looks like:
    Top two: inlet from CPU and res/pump (supplied by top radiator)
    2nd two: outlet to CPU and GPU
    3rd two: inlet from gpu and ?
    Bottom two: ???
     
  10. AthlonXP

    AthlonXP [H]ard as it Gets

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    Thanks. It’s nice to hide it and then turn it around to use when it’s time to drain the loop.
     
  11. SticKx911

    SticKx911 2[H]4U

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    Yea, but path of least resistance...wouldn’t the water just bypass all the blocks and flow right down to the res?
     
  12. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    It can't flow top to bottom - the block actually has 5 inlets, only the "front" 2 of which are open and they have the QDCs attached (the sides are plugs, and the back is a temperature sensor plug for each junction).

    As for part routing, the very top and very bottom junctions (not QDCs) go to the hard loop (pump/res/rads/flow meter). In general, the QDCs are arranged in alternating male/female and female/male pairs - this makes it impossible to get the flow backwards when disconnecting and reconnecting components. Similar to nature, the coolant flow direction goes from male in to female :)

    Starting from the top, the top 2 QDCs are CPU, GPU, and unused (just a plain looped hose). The unused pair was originally intended for a VRM and chipset loop that I could not actually fit into the case. If you look at my C700P case in the next post, I have an empty set of QDCs on my PC as well. This is because I HAD that same arrangement in there (and remember this was the prototype build for what she ended up with). When I replaced my Asus Prime B350 Plus mainboard with the Crosshair VI, I opted to leave the RGB blocks that came with the mainboard on instead of fitting the chipset and VRM loop to it, leaving that set of QDCs unused - the CPU connects to the block bit above the unused QDCs, and comes back in below that set, isolating that particular block bit. Flow is maintained, and I have room for future expansion :).

    ASCII Flow Diagram:

    Code:
                    ___
    Flow Meter --->|   |
                   |  -|--- Temperature Sensor
    CPU Block  <---|   |
                    ---
                    ___
    CPU Block  --->|   |
                   |  -|--- Temperature Sensor
    Vid Block  <---|   |
                    ---
                    ___
    Vid Block  --->|   |
                   |  -|--- Temperature Sensor
    *NC        <---|   |
                    ---
                    ___
    *NC        --->|   |
                   |  -|--- Temperature Sensor
    Pump/Res   <---|   |
                    ---
    
    *NC = No Connect/Plain Hose
    
    I'm thinking that next loop maintenace cycle on her PC, I'll replace that angle barb on her CPU block with a straight compression fitting (I was 1 fitting shy and had to substitute) and just remove the NC hose and shift the vid connection down to compensate - it should neaten up the interior a bit with it out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019
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  13. SticKx911

    SticKx911 2[H]4U

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    That makes sense. I thought the manifolds were all connected and had flow through. My mistake.
     
  14. Deimos

    Deimos Gawd

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    What is the temp difference between all those sensors?
     
  15. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    On my system, currently at idle, they look like this...

    Screenshot (5).png

    Note that Temp #3 is the disconnected set of QDCs from the C700P picture above, so that is the current ambient in the case. I'll post a picture of it under load in a little bit as I am gearing up to do some deinterlacing and encoding using MEGUI x264 and QTGMC on Season 1 of McHale's Navy...
     
  16. Deimos

    Deimos Gawd

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    Are the sensors actual WC sensors? Or are you using the stick on probes that come with some motherboards? I'm keen to see load temps, thanks.
     
  17. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    They are Koolance 10K Ohm plug probes connected to the Commander Pro. Wife wanted to play some Smite, so my full CPU load temps are a bit delayed. Smite is not the most demanding game, but here it is while I'm playing with her (we're waiting for the next match to start)...

    Screenshot (6).png
     
  18. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    Temps under full load. This is taken during the aforementioned encoding job (about 2 hours into it, actually). I loaded up the graphics card as well with a continuous loop of the Heaven benchmark running on the other monitor. Although it is not shown in the overlays in the screenshot, the CPU core temp is 57C according to Ryzen Master.

    Screenshot (7).png
     
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  19. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    I was gifted a Dell PowerEdge R515 server, and I upgraded it from a pair of 4-core Opteron CPUs to a pair of 6-cores for all of $11. After adding 32G of ECC DDR3L and a PERC H700, my Media Center PC no longer has Plex Server, light database and File Sharing duties, and thus no reason to leave an FX-8350 running all the time. So, I retired it this weekend in favor of something with a bit lower power draw.

    The trick is... I have a VERY limited budget to do this, essentially leaving me scraps to build with. Fortunately, my needs in a Media Center PC are modest. It only needs to be able to run Kodi, Hulu and Netflix, and the video acceleration duties will be handled by the same Radeon 260x that was in the now-retied FX-8350 system.

    Parts left over from the FX-8350... Koolance RP-1000 5.25" bay pump/reservoir controller, 2x 240mm Koolance aluminum radiators, various fans of various sizes, the aforementioned Radeon 260x (with EK generic video block), Koolance CPU-380 block, FM-16 flow meter, and the digital read out for it. I also got a 360mm Black Ice copper radiator from Blackbird here on the [H] (for the cost of FREE+SHIPPING because it was cosmetically unattractive), and a bunch of fittings from the old system, plus some I have collected over the years of water cooling as a hobby.

    I had an Asus Prime B350-Plus mainboard that I got back from RMA (unrecoverable from failed BIOS flash, had replaced it with a used Crosshair VI from this forum while I waited for Asus to process it 1 month later), and I had my launch R7 1700 that I upgraded my wife out of in favor of a 2700x CPU (yay, Tax Time!). I had 16G (2x8) of DDR4 that my cousin opted not to use in his build when he saw the TridentZ Royal sticks, and my kids have been running a Skylake i5-6600K w/16G of RAM.

    Well, the kids are getting an upgrade to the Ryzen system. Being the overall least powerful system in the house, and the most energy efficient one as well, the Intel is getting Media Center duty. And those aluminum rads are getting retired, too. While I'm at it, I should get a more modern and attractive case for the living room PC, and so I got a Lian Li o11 Dynamic in black for $150 shipped from NewEgg (it was actually in stock when I looked, so I jumped on it). I figured I'd manage to make this Koolance bay unit work with it some sort of way, except DISASTER STRUCK and I dropped it breaking the plastic on the reservoir. That actually made things easier, because the RP-1000 uses a standard DDC pump on the inside. I * COULD * have bought a replacement reservoir for the RP-1000 for $30, but instead, I opted for a Barrow 135mm cylinder reservoir instead ($20), and gutted the RP-1000 for all of it's other parts.

    Is it the prettiest build? No, but I'm pleased with it. This is what I came up with, ultimately re-purposing a bunch of stuff I had sitting around + ~$180 of new stuff (note that the pictures aren't the greatest because of where this system is in the living room, and that they do not show the 2x140mm fans at the top of the case):

    WP_20190324_23_25_12_Pro.jpg WP_20190324_23_23_27_Pro.jpg WP_20190324_23_20_46_Pro.jpg
     
  20. mvmiller12

    mvmiller12 Gawd

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    I should also note, in case it was unclear, that the Koolance electronics and pump are mounted on the back side bracket, behind the motherboard tray. That's where that little mess of white wires going from the Koolance display is going. The wires aren't very noticeable when I'm not using flash photography on them :). The pump is lower than the reservoir, and the reservoir drains directly into the pump IN, making filling super-easy. The radiator, being "inverted" with the drain on the bottom (with ball valve) should make it super-easy to drain as well come maintenance time.
     
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  21. gigasmack

    gigasmack Gawd

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    Here's my dual system water cooled build. The bottom mATX is my Gaming system, and the ITX up top is a Plex Server/Streaming PC.

    My gaming system has an 8700k @ 4.9Ghz (All Cores) @1.31v. 32GB of 3600Mhz DDR4 and a 1080Ti with a modest overclock (2025Mhz).

    The ITX system has a 6700k @ 4.2Ghz (All Cores), with 16Gb of 2400Mhz DDR4.

    Water cooling parts consist of two EK Supremecy EVO waterblocks. An EK 1080Ti waterblock. EK X-RES and then Alphacool NexXxos 360, 240, and 120 radiators.

    While gaming, the 8700k stays between 60 - 65°C. The 1080Ti stays below 50°C.

    Rd1M2Kn.jpg


    Aawya1Z.jpg

    W2z6hMU.jpg


    Z9lBvvK.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2019 at 11:54 AM
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  22. FrgMstr

    FrgMstr Just Plain Mean Staff Member

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    You did some great work there my brother!!!
     
  23. gigasmack

    gigasmack Gawd

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    Thank you. I'm quite happy with how this turned out.
     
  24. AG1M

    AG1M [H]Lite

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    Small Update, I painted my Noctua NF-A20 PWM fans black, looks much better now :)

    Before:

    dsc_0022.png

    Now (I switched from push to pull fan setup, no performance difference, but much easier to clean the radiator now):

    dsc_0024.png

    Noctua NF-A20 PWM fans painted black:

    dsc_0023.png

    PC:


    dsc_0025.png
     
  25. alxlwson

    alxlwson You Know Where I Live

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  26. gigasmack

    gigasmack Gawd

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    Yeah, it does look good. I'm pretty tempted to try painting mine now.
     
  27. doug_7506

    doug_7506 2[H]4U

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    I've been thinking about doing something similar with my M1. I've been surprised with the thermal performance of my 2070x at stock that I really haven't had to touch it though. The w/c itch is real though right now.. haha
     
  28. AG1M

    AG1M [H]Lite

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    Then good luck, every fan took me around 50 minutes with the brush to complete. But it's worth IMHO.

    My GTX 1070 (bought in 2017) runs at 28°C idle and 36°C full load @ 2050 Mhz @ 0.993 V @ 170 watt power draw, I guess the RTX 2070 would be almost the same under water temperature wise.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2019