New 1950x build... and I went all out...

Discussion in 'AMD Processors' started by H2R2P2, Aug 22, 2017.

  1. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Latest update:

    I took a look inside the chiller and I do believe I could do the conversion of swapping the motor over. I started looking for suitable replacements and low and behold, I found the man behind the curtain. :) I don't want to spoil anything yet, but lets just say I found the REAL manufacturer of these chillers and they are not German.. Not even European... And they have a 110V version.... **AND** I was able to get a BRAND NEW ONE SHIPPED TO MY HOME FOR LESS THAN HALF THE PRICE I PAID FOR THE ALPHACOOL!!!!! So lets just say that I ordered one......... Maybe I will have to start selling these myself? There are a couple tiny things that need to be changed to get it to work but its definitely in my wheelhouse of expertise. So the Threadripper *IS* getting chilled after all!

    Also have my water block installed and using the Koolance setup to cool for the time being. Temps are really good! I have not tried going over 4GHz yet but I have had long stints where the UEFI has automatically turbo boosted me to 4.88GHz (according to system monitor). Not sure that I believe that entirely (like, maybe a 1% chance that's actually true) but I did have the auto-overclock stuff on as well as thermal throttling dialed down, so anything is possible.

    I will send you a PM on some of my background. Its not like its entirely 100% top secret, but its off topic so figured I would reach out individually.... :) But yes, I did learn some things from my B-52 days. In fact, the ECM system (Electronic Counter Measures) is actually SUBMERGED in non-conductive fluid. There is also a turbine powered cooler (off the exhaust) that uses rapid expansion to massively (and quickly) cool air temps which gets used for breathable air inside the plane. It cools the air by several hundred degrees instantaneously! Its an interesting plane since everything on it was designed such a long time ago. Way more mechanical vs. a modern airframe. One example is the cabin pressure system. There is a dial in the cockpit that you turn to set what "simulated" elevation (air pressure) you want the inside to run at. The switch is literally hooked up to cables and pulleys that connect up to plastic bags with plastic orifices of different sizes that allow the air to flow to an outflow valve on the sides of the plane. So, the system that keeps you alive and basically stops you from passing out are some garbage bags with holes in them.. :)

    EDIT: Here is a sample of temps and load. I turned SMT off, but that's itt... See how the clocks don't match??

    temps.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2017
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  2. thesmokingman

    thesmokingman [H]ardness Supreme

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    You could also have just gotten a Haliea HC1000 or HC2200 which are much more efficient for 1.6Kw to 2Kw cooling capacity.
     
  3. RedWagnum

    RedWagnum Limp Gawd

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    Hot Damn! Out-freaking-standing! (y) Keep us posted on the return process for the Alphacool unit and of course with the new unit!
     
  4. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Problem with those units are they are still 220V (at least on the units I have found). Already covered the 220V issue in the thread but long story short is I could convert an outlet over if I really needed to, but would prefer not to. Other issue is the Haliea's are only the chiller portion. They dont have a pump inside. The unit I ordered has 1.52KW cooling power (more than enough), chills the coolant outflow to within 0.3C of what the temp is at, has a pump head height of 40 feet (so could put it in a basement) and flow rate of 13L per/min, plus its all in one single unit with a warranty??!?!?! The 130W - 150W waste heat this generates is more than acceptable. I wouldn't ridicule anyone for getting the Haliea but its not a solution I would consider when something like this exists.
     
  5. thesmokingman

    thesmokingman [H]ardness Supreme

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    There are Haliea chillers for US power. In fact most of the rebrands are 110v. You can buy the rebranded ones on Amazon, prime shipping lol. But that doesn't matter as it looks like you have what you need sorted out now.
     
  6. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Will do.. Place I got the Alphacool from is not being very helpful at this point. I will give them a little bit more time, but keeping my options open at this point.
     
  7. Epyon

    Epyon Gawd

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    Are you ever going to tell us who the manufacture is of the alpha cool is or just piss us off and keep it to yourself? I mean if your not going to tell us then why even bring it up? it just pisses people off. I was going to buy one later on but not now knowing direct is less then 1/2.
     
  8. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Originally I was going to wait until it showed up, but if its going to make you upset... Then I will just tell you. The name of the company is S&A. Is there anything else I am supposed to know you want to know but haven't asked? I suppose I eluded to the price. Well, I paid $513 shipped (2 day). But I had a coupon and you earn points when you buy something (which you can immediately redeem) so that affected the price by $30 in my favor.

    Let me know what else I am supposedly leaving out to piss people off and I will be sure to add that information as well.

    EDI: Checked tracking and its scheduled for Wednesday delivery.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2017
  9. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Had a couple people email me about specifications for the chiller. Here is a snip from the literature:


    ChillerSpecs.JPG
     
  10. RedWagnum

    RedWagnum Limp Gawd

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    Ya man, you're pissing me off by not posting what color it is! Come on man, get with it and stop pissing people off! :LOL::ROFLMAO::rolleyes:
     
  11. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    OH GREAT! Another pissed off person? How do you people expect me to be able to sleep tonight?!?!?!?!?!??!?!

    FINE! To answer your question, its technically three separate colors. Beige/White, black, and blue:

    Chiller.JPG

    If this pisses anyone else off, I can post a picture of the back of it too...
     
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  12. RedWagnum

    RedWagnum Limp Gawd

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    Sleep is for pussies! XD

    Looks sweet though - similar to the AlphaCool unit. Must be somewhat smaller since the tank is 1/3 smaller (6L vs 9L) than the AlphaCool.
     
  13. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Here is a picture of the back:

    chillerback.JPG

    They do have an exact match version to the Aquacool, but I went with this slightly different version because it has a stronger pump inside. I adding a larger coolant tank would be a lot easier than a bigger pump. I wanted to have the flexibility of having the chiller a farther distance away from the computer as I am going to come nowhere near putting 1400W of heat through this (initially).
     
  14. tangoseal

    tangoseal [H]ardness Supreme

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    A really good measure of how much heat you are pushing into a system is how much energy you are drawing from the PSU after conversion from utility to 12v.

    Laws pf physics state that energy can neither be destroyed nor created. Thus you can't output more thermal energy in wattage than you take in from the wall.

    So if your PSU is putting out 500 watts of energy the laws of thermodynamics state that you can't out put more, in fact the second law states that due to entropy you are going to actually output less than you take in. You mentioned you will not put more than 1400 watts through it initially, however I will find it a hard challenge enough to come close to that unless you are planning to have 4 GPUs and dual sockets in that thing and that probably is not the case.

    Physics is great because it really shows us just how much we think we know and are wrong about when making choices with electronics based machinery. For instance you are getting a 1400 watt capacity cooling option for your PC but I bet you don't have a 1400 watt PSU thus you will never fully saturate your cooling solution and you will be A-OK. Now on the other hand while overhead is great you should consider that too much overhead equals reduced money in your bank account for no reason other than overkill. Size matters as does your money.
     
  15. RedWagnum

    RedWagnum Limp Gawd

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    H2R2P2 : What the hell? The coolant level indicator is on the BACK??? SMH What were they thinking? You must send it back and demand that they redesign the unit so that the level indicator is on the FRONT! Man that pisses me off! :LOL::ROFLMAO::rolleyes:

    tangoseal : If you read back through the thread you will find that H2R2P2 might add additional systems to the chiller loop. Come on man, keep up! :LOL:
     
  16. Iratus

    Iratus Gawd

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    Damn, I've been in this a while and am rarely impressed but today I felt a little [H]

    That storage setup is insane. The rest is awesome too.. Puts my build to shame. Definitely interesting find on the chiller as well. You could get a heck of a rack setup using one of those with a bunch of the Intel D-1581 SoC's with the 12v Motherboard. Shared cooling and power = crazy density.
     
  17. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Everything you say it true. Having said that, I am a bit of an outlier when it comes to electronics. For example, I have a computer in my office that when overclocked (both CPU's and GPU's) can hit 15A draw, so I had to get a dedicated 20A circuit ran for it. I actually have a total of 8x 20A circuits in this room... This Threadripper probably wont get to that point (some major components are more efficient), but I could easily put more heat into this than what it could handle.
     
  18. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Agreed on the chiller setup and we are on the same page... This is a test of sorts as if this ends up working really well, there may be more of them in my future. :)
     
  19. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    UPDATE: Got some more parts in..

    WP_20170909_16_43_45_Rich.jpg


    Parts:

    Thermaltake Core P7
    Dual Aquacomputer Titan XP water blocks
    Bunch more Koolance fittings
    Picked up another 1.2TB Intel NVME drive (750 series though). Probably wont use it in this system though..
     
  20. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Thought I would also take a quick pic of my electrical box since I keep getting this whole thing about doubting the power needs I have. I have two main pulls (enough for two whole houses) from the power company (along with its $1,000+ a month power bill):


    WP_20170909_16_52_48_Rich.jpg
     
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  21. Iratus

    Iratus Gawd

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    I have the same graphics cooler.

    Top tip. PAy attention to the instructions. The screw sizes are different depending on which back you use, 'active' one needs spacers and different sized screws etc. I installed mine wrong the first time as I didn't realise the backplate had instructions for the waterblock that was different from what it came with and it was impossible to tell it was wrong before firing it up and it throttling when the temperature rocketed.

    Managed to shear a spacer on the waterblock the second time too, luckily AC have great parts availability. Just poorly written instructions; correct but a bit unclear.
     
  22. tangoseal

    tangoseal [H]ardness Supreme

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    Yeah I have dual 240v sockets I ran my self in my basement computer room (finished basement).

    My HX1000i and TR 1950x and dual 1080ti's are fed from a 240v source. I never EVER pop breakers. I have over 3.6kw before my 15 amp breaker pops. And I ran 10 guage romex line so there would be no warming of the wire even at full capacity of the breaker.

    My next really big housing project is going to be adding a Generac Propane 15kw genny to my home.
     
  23. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    240V is the way to go for computer stuff for sure. Way more efficient! Do you use PDU's in your room and hook standard power plugs to that? Or do you have plug converters? Swapped power cables? Having 10 gauge wire is also cool! I used that myself. All the circuits I added to the house (that weren't already here when I bought it) are 10 gauge wire. If I were to build a house from scratch I could see myself with a main line 240V run through strategic areas of the house with corresponding PDU's in areas where I know I will need them.
     
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  24. tangoseal

    tangoseal [H]ardness Supreme

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    I went to hardware store and bought some plugs and made my own wires for the PC. Not using a PDU though I have been tempted to just build my own from scratch. Real PDUs are $$$$.

    My Corsair HX1000i absolutely hums along happily on 240v.
     
  25. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Everyone that I personally know who uses 240V with PDU's always get the PDU's from eBay. Here is an example (link was screwy, so put an image instead):

    pdu.JPG

    Some times you can find some really good brand new ones for dirt cheap. I also have some friends who have bought used racks that still had the PDU's in them too.
     
  26. Epyon

    Epyon Gawd

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    I meant no disrespect. I just see the forums as a group of people that share setups,links to deals and knowledge. When you said they come in 110v when you google 110v chillers those pictures come up in ebay listings and when the pictures are the same i figured those were it but its nice of you to confirm.
     
  27. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Hey, no problem. We just had a misunderstanding... :)
     
  28. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    UPDATE:

    The new chiller came in today! Here are some pics..

    ChillerInsideBox.jpg

    Chiller.jpg

    Back.jpg

    This is what was in the small box:

    goodies.jpg

    The chiller is the same length and height as the koolance radiator setup:

    Installed.jpg

    I am still screwing around with this whole thing, but I have the chiller set to cool within X degrees of room temp. I have been running for 25 mins thus far under full load and its been keeping my CPU temps at ~40.5C - 41.13C running at 4.0GHz and 1.45v. Whats also kinda unexpected is the compressor doesnt run all the time to keep these temps. The pump is always going (of course), but the compressor initially doesnt run. I would estimate maybe 5 mins @ full load is needed before it kicks in. It runs for a few mins, then shuts off again. Temps are always maintained. It just went through another cycle but this one was substantially longer.

    20minfullload.jpg

    EDIT

    Did a bit more tweaking and got better results. Been running at this for about an hour thus far:

    4125ghz.PNG
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  29. cageymaru

    cageymaru [H]ard|News

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    I was wondering if something like this would allow you to keep the chiller on its own loop and then each PC on their own loop. Not sure if you needed something like that; I saw it awhile ago while reading up on water chillers. I think I read that other companies make heavy duty versions of these. I have no idea how well they work though.
    http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=54_119_119

    Performance-pcs sells them.
    http://www.performance-pcs.com/wate...-hxp-193-plate-heat-exchanger-no-nozzles.html

    And congrats on the build! It is a MONSTER! :)

    [​IMG]
     
  30. noko

    noko 2[H]4U

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    How are your VRM temperatures while pushing 4.15ghz? Plus power at the plug for the system?
     
  31. RedWagnum

    RedWagnum Limp Gawd

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    Damn, that's what you call kicking ass and not bothering to take names! :wideyed:

    Are those 3/8" (10mm) barbs on the back? And seriously, WTF is up with the level indicator on the back of the unit? It really ought to be on the front. Other than that it looks top notch!
     
  32. cageymaru

    cageymaru [H]ard|News

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    I was wondering if something like this would work just fine in an external WC system. Of course you'd need to convert the inlet and outlet to the proper size which should be really easy.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-to-Ai...hash=item463f0e7d59:m:m9n77eU-93NbMkdKt24HSyQ
     
  33. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    A liquid to liquid heat exchanger! Thats a really good idea!!! Whats odd is I recall seeing these a LONG time back but I completely forgot these existed.. Thanks for the reminder!! Let me know if you run across any performance info on these. Hopefully they are copper core as everything i have is. I believe there are instances where this style liquid to liquid exchanger is made of stainless steel (since they never know what liquids you are using), but that would obviously not be very efficient in this type of application.

    And thanks! This build is most definitely outside the bounds of what is necessary, but its fun! :)

    EDIT: I ordered a couple of them. We shall see! Says it will do a 20C drop from inlet to outlet. I got 2 comin gjust in case..
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  34. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Sure, you could always adapt anything along those lines and make it work. There are a couple issues though when you start going down the kind of road you suggest:

    1) Aesthetics. Of course this doesn't apply to everyone, but in my case I need to care about it.
    2) Pump power. When you convert something over from another application you need to concern yourself about how much pressure you need to pump coolant through it. There are a bunch of variables in this and while they can all be addressed, it is something that can cause problems if you aren't careful.

    While i would never knock someone for converting one of these and using it on their computer, its hard to justify when there are a bunch of computer water cooling components readily available. If that werent the case (and believe me, it hasnt always been this way) then I would be all over it!
     
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  35. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Fo shizzle... :)

    The barbs needed to be converted, but yes I am running 1/2" ID tubing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  36. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    VRM temp doesnt appear to be too bad. Not sure how accurate HWINFO is, but it reports it being 44C @ 4200MHz with 1.35v. FYI: I do have a large but slow moving fan blowing over the whole CPU area including the VRM's (Fan: 220x30mm, 41CFM). Plus, the Zenith Extreme does have a fan under the VRM heatsink, so I am sure both those things play a role here. I do have a kill-a-watt to measure the draw at teh plug, but there is an estimate in HWINFO too. I put an arrow by it in the lower right.

    VRM.jpg

    Doing some more tweaking. I was trying for 4.25GHz on the same settings as above but it locked up about 10 mins of being under full load. I upped voltage to 1.5v and its stable now. Been running for over 20 mins full load and streaming youtube crap in the background, and using the system to do stuff. This thing is crazy fast!! Here are the temps:

    4250ghz.PNG
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2017
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  37. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    I am hitting some weird "walls". Ryzen Master will not let me do a CPU voltage above 1.55v. I can set it higher via UEFI (I tried 1.6v) and while UEFI reported 1.6v, Ryzen Master still reported 1.55v. I could technically get the CPU into Windows at 4350MHz, but it would lock up after a couple minutes (even if I wasn't doing anything). I started backing down to find something stable and for now it appears thats somewhere around 4200 - 4225. I still need to do a lot of work to be what I would consider completely stable at these speeds, but it can be done. I am still using the chiller only to cool temps back down to ambient, so I have not gone anywhere near as low a temp on the coolant as I could. For kicks, here is a CPU-Z benchmark at 4225MHz, 1.55v set in UEFI (Link to results: https://valid.x86.fr/q52nzm):

    upload_2017-9-14_0-30-16.png
     

    Attached Files:

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  38. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    Oh, and check this out! Single thread performance at 4225MHz is a dead heat with an i7-7700K. I may have just found "game mode" :) :

    upload_2017-9-14_0-38-48.png
     
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  39. thesmokingman

    thesmokingman [H]ardness Supreme

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    1.55v and up? It's about time you break out the Fluke/meter at that voltage man. In the name of science!
     
  40. H2R2P2

    H2R2P2 Limp Gawd

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    I might just have to do that. I have an el-cheapo $10 radio shack meter here somewhere so while its no Fluke, it still should work.. :)