New 1950x build... and I went all out...

Latest update:

I found the REAL manufacturer of these chillers and they are not German.. Not even European... And they have a 110V version.... **AND** I was able to get a BRAND NEW ONE SHIPPED TO MY HOME FOR LESS THAN HALF THE PRICE I PAID FOR THE ALPHACOOL!!!!!

You could also have just gotten a Haliea HC1000 or HC2200 which are much more efficient for 1.6Kw to 2Kw cooling capacity.
 
I took a look inside the chiller and I do believe I could do the conversion of swapping the motor over. I started looking for suitable replacements and low and behold, I found the man behind the curtain. :) I don't want to spoil anything yet, but lets just say I found the REAL manufacturer of these chillers and they are not German.. Not even European... And they have a 110V version.... **AND** I was able to get a BRAND NEW ONE SHIPPED TO MY HOME FOR LESS THAN HALF THE PRICE I PAID FOR THE ALPHACOOL!!!!! So lets just say that I ordered one......... Maybe I will have to start selling these myself? There are a couple tiny things that need to be changed to get it to work but its definitely in my wheelhouse of expertise. So the Threadripper *IS* getting chilled after all!
Hot Damn! Out-freaking-standing! (y) Keep us posted on the return process for the Alphacool unit and of course with the new unit!
 
You could also have just gotten a Haliea HC1000 or HC2200 which are much more efficient for 1.6Kw to 2Kw cooling capacity.

Problem with those units are they are still 220V (at least on the units I have found). Already covered the 220V issue in the thread but long story short is I could convert an outlet over if I really needed to, but would prefer not to. Other issue is the Haliea's are only the chiller portion. They dont have a pump inside. The unit I ordered has 1.52KW cooling power (more than enough), chills the coolant outflow to within 0.3C of what the temp is at, has a pump head height of 40 feet (so could put it in a basement) and flow rate of 13L per/min, plus its all in one single unit with a warranty??!?!?! The 130W - 150W waste heat this generates is more than acceptable. I wouldn't ridicule anyone for getting the Haliea but its not a solution I would consider when something like this exists.
 
Problem with those units are they are still 220V (at least on the units I have found). Already covered the 220V issue in the thread but long story short is I could convert an outlet over if I really needed to, but would prefer not to. Other issue is the Haliea's are only the chiller portion. They dont have a pump inside. The unit I ordered has 1.52KW cooling power (more than enough), chills the coolant outflow to within 0.3C of what the temp is at, has a pump head height of 40 feet (so could put it in a basement) and flow rate of 13L per/min, plus its all in one single unit with a warranty??!?!?! The 130W - 150W waste heat this generates is more than acceptable. I wouldn't ridicule anyone for getting the Haliea but its not a solution I would consider when something like this exists.

There are Haliea chillers for US power. In fact most of the rebrands are 110v. You can buy the rebranded ones on Amazon, prime shipping lol. But that doesn't matter as it looks like you have what you need sorted out now.
 
Hot Damn! Out-freaking-standing! (y) Keep us posted on the return process for the Alphacool unit and of course with the new unit!

Will do.. Place I got the Alphacool from is not being very helpful at this point. I will give them a little bit more time, but keeping my options open at this point.
 
Are you ever going to tell us who the manufacture is of the alpha cool is or just piss us off and keep it to yourself? I mean if your not going to tell us then why even bring it up? it just pisses people off. I was going to buy one later on but not now knowing direct is less then 1/2.
 
Are you ever going to tell us who the manufacture is of the alpha cool is or just piss us off and keep it to yourself? I mean if your not going to tell us then why even bring it up? it just pisses people off. I was going to buy one later on but not now knowing direct is less then 1/2.

Originally I was going to wait until it showed up, but if its going to make you upset... Then I will just tell you. The name of the company is S&A. Is there anything else I am supposed to know you want to know but haven't asked? I suppose I eluded to the price. Well, I paid $513 shipped (2 day). But I had a coupon and you earn points when you buy something (which you can immediately redeem) so that affected the price by $30 in my favor.

Let me know what else I am supposedly leaving out to piss people off and I will be sure to add that information as well.

EDI: Checked tracking and its scheduled for Wednesday delivery.
 
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Had a couple people email me about specifications for the chiller. Here is a snip from the literature:


ChillerSpecs.JPG
 
Let me know what else I am supposedly leaving out to piss people off and I will be sure to add that information as well.
Ya man, you're pissing me off by not posting what color it is! Come on man, get with it and stop pissing people off! :LOL::ROFLMAO::rolleyes:
 
Ya man, you're pissing me off by not posting what color it is! Come on man, get with it and stop pissing people off! :LOL::ROFLMAO::rolleyes:

OH GREAT! Another pissed off person? How do you people expect me to be able to sleep tonight?!?!?!?!?!??!?!

FINE! To answer your question, its technically three separate colors. Beige/White, black, and blue:

Chiller.JPG


If this pisses anyone else off, I can post a picture of the back of it too...
 
Sleep is for pussies! XD

Looks sweet though - similar to the AlphaCool unit. Must be somewhat smaller since the tank is 1/3 smaller (6L vs 9L) than the AlphaCool.
 
Sleep is for pussies! XD

Looks sweet though - similar to the AlphaCool unit. Must be somewhat smaller since the tank is 1/3 smaller (6L vs 9L) than the AlphaCool.

Here is a picture of the back:

chillerback.JPG


They do have an exact match version to the Aquacool, but I went with this slightly different version because it has a stronger pump inside. I adding a larger coolant tank would be a lot easier than a bigger pump. I wanted to have the flexibility of having the chiller a farther distance away from the computer as I am going to come nowhere near putting 1400W of heat through this (initially).
 
Here is a picture of the back:

View attachment 36064

They do have an exact match version to the Aquacool, but I went with this slightly different version because it has a stronger pump inside. I adding a larger coolant tank would be a lot easier than a bigger pump. I wanted to have the flexibility of having the chiller a farther distance away from the computer as I am going to come nowhere near putting 1400W of heat through this (initially).

A really good measure of how much heat you are pushing into a system is how much energy you are drawing from the PSU after conversion from utility to 12v.

Laws pf physics state that energy can neither be destroyed nor created. Thus you can't output more thermal energy in wattage than you take in from the wall.

So if your PSU is putting out 500 watts of energy the laws of thermodynamics state that you can't out put more, in fact the second law states that due to entropy you are going to actually output less than you take in. You mentioned you will not put more than 1400 watts through it initially, however I will find it a hard challenge enough to come close to that unless you are planning to have 4 GPUs and dual sockets in that thing and that probably is not the case.

Physics is great because it really shows us just how much we think we know and are wrong about when making choices with electronics based machinery. For instance you are getting a 1400 watt capacity cooling option for your PC but I bet you don't have a 1400 watt PSU thus you will never fully saturate your cooling solution and you will be A-OK. Now on the other hand while overhead is great you should consider that too much overhead equals reduced money in your bank account for no reason other than overkill. Size matters as does your money.
 
H2R2P2 : What the hell? The coolant level indicator is on the BACK??? SMH What were they thinking? You must send it back and demand that they redesign the unit so that the level indicator is on the FRONT! Man that pisses me off! :LOL::ROFLMAO::rolleyes:

tangoseal : If you read back through the thread you will find that H2R2P2 might add additional systems to the chiller loop. Come on man, keep up! :LOL:
 
Damn, I've been in this a while and am rarely impressed but today I felt a little [H]

That storage setup is insane. The rest is awesome too.. Puts my build to shame. Definitely interesting find on the chiller as well. You could get a heck of a rack setup using one of those with a bunch of the Intel D-1581 SoC's with the 12v Motherboard. Shared cooling and power = crazy density.
 
A really good measure of how much heat you are pushing into a system is how much energy you are drawing from the PSU after conversion from utility to 12v.

Laws pf physics state that energy can neither be destroyed nor created. Thus you can't output more thermal energy in wattage than you take in from the wall.

So if your PSU is putting out 500 watts of energy the laws of thermodynamics state that you can't out put more, in fact the second law states that due to entropy you are going to actually output less than you take in. You mentioned you will not put more than 1400 watts through it initially, however I will find it a hard challenge enough to come close to that unless you are planning to have 4 GPUs and dual sockets in that thing and that probably is not the case.

Physics is great because it really shows us just how much we think we know and are wrong about when making choices with electronics based machinery. For instance you are getting a 1400 watt capacity cooling option for your PC but I bet you don't have a 1400 watt PSU thus you will never fully saturate your cooling solution and you will be A-OK. Now on the other hand while overhead is great you should consider that too much overhead equals reduced money in your bank account for no reason other than overkill. Size matters as does your money.

Everything you say it true. Having said that, I am a bit of an outlier when it comes to electronics. For example, I have a computer in my office that when overclocked (both CPU's and GPU's) can hit 15A draw, so I had to get a dedicated 20A circuit ran for it. I actually have a total of 8x 20A circuits in this room... This Threadripper probably wont get to that point (some major components are more efficient), but I could easily put more heat into this than what it could handle.
 
Damn, I've been in this a while and am rarely impressed but today I felt a little [H]

That storage setup is insane. The rest is awesome too.. Puts my build to shame. Definitely interesting find on the chiller as well. You could get a heck of a rack setup using one of those with a bunch of the Intel D-1581 SoC's with the 12v Motherboard. Shared cooling and power = crazy density.

Agreed on the chiller setup and we are on the same page... This is a test of sorts as if this ends up working really well, there may be more of them in my future. :)
 
UPDATE: Got some more parts in..

WP_20170909_16_43_45_Rich.jpg



Parts:

Thermaltake Core P7
Dual Aquacomputer Titan XP water blocks
Bunch more Koolance fittings
Picked up another 1.2TB Intel NVME drive (750 series though). Probably wont use it in this system though..
 
Thought I would also take a quick pic of my electrical box since I keep getting this whole thing about doubting the power needs I have. I have two main pulls (enough for two whole houses) from the power company (along with its $1,000+ a month power bill):


WP_20170909_16_52_48_Rich.jpg
 
I have the same graphics cooler.

Top tip. PAy attention to the instructions. The screw sizes are different depending on which back you use, 'active' one needs spacers and different sized screws etc. I installed mine wrong the first time as I didn't realise the backplate had instructions for the waterblock that was different from what it came with and it was impossible to tell it was wrong before firing it up and it throttling when the temperature rocketed.

Managed to shear a spacer on the waterblock the second time too, luckily AC have great parts availability. Just poorly written instructions; correct but a bit unclear.
 
Yeah I have dual 240v sockets I ran my self in my basement computer room (finished basement).

My HX1000i and TR 1950x and dual 1080ti's are fed from a 240v source. I never EVER pop breakers. I have over 3.6kw before my 15 amp breaker pops. And I ran 10 guage romex line so there would be no warming of the wire even at full capacity of the breaker.

My next really big housing project is going to be adding a Generac Propane 15kw genny to my home.
 
Yeah I have dual 240v sockets I ran my self in my basement computer room (finished basement).

My HX1000i and TR 1950x and dual 1080ti's are fed from a 240v source. I never EVER pop breakers. I have over 3.6kw before my 15 amp breaker pops. And I ran 10 guage romex line so there would be no warming of the wire even at full capacity of the breaker.

My next really big housing project is going to be adding a Generac Propane 15kw genny to my home.

240V is the way to go for computer stuff for sure. Way more efficient! Do you use PDU's in your room and hook standard power plugs to that? Or do you have plug converters? Swapped power cables? Having 10 gauge wire is also cool! I used that myself. All the circuits I added to the house (that weren't already here when I bought it) are 10 gauge wire. If I were to build a house from scratch I could see myself with a main line 240V run through strategic areas of the house with corresponding PDU's in areas where I know I will need them.
 
240V is the way to go for computer stuff for sure. Way more efficient! Do you use PDU's in your room and hook standard power plugs to that? Or do you have plug converters? Swapped power cables? Having 10 gauge wire is also cool! I used that myself. All the circuits I added to the house (that weren't already here when I bought it) are 10 gauge wire. If I were to build a house from scratch I could see myself with a main line 240V run through strategic areas of the house with corresponding PDU's in areas where I know I will need them.

I went to hardware store and bought some plugs and made my own wires for the PC. Not using a PDU though I have been tempted to just build my own from scratch. Real PDUs are $$$$.

My Corsair HX1000i absolutely hums along happily on 240v.
 
I went to hardware store and bought some plugs and made my own wires for the PC. Not using a PDU though I have been tempted to just build my own from scratch. Real PDUs are $$$$.

My Corsair HX1000i absolutely hums along happily on 240v.

Everyone that I personally know who uses 240V with PDU's always get the PDU's from eBay. Here is an example (link was screwy, so put an image instead):

pdu.JPG


Some times you can find some really good brand new ones for dirt cheap. I also have some friends who have bought used racks that still had the PDU's in them too.
 
I meant no disrespect. I just see the forums as a group of people that share setups,links to deals and knowledge. When you said they come in 110v when you google 110v chillers those pictures come up in ebay listings and when the pictures are the same i figured those were it but its nice of you to confirm.
 
I meant no disrespect. I just see the forums as a group of people that share setups,links to deals and knowledge. When you said they come in 110v when you google 110v chillers those pictures come up in ebay listings and when the pictures are the same i figured those were it but its nice of you to confirm.

Hey, no problem. We just had a misunderstanding... :)
 
UPDATE:

The new chiller came in today! Here are some pics..

ChillerInsideBox.jpg

Chiller.jpg

Back.jpg

This is what was in the small box:

goodies.jpg

The chiller is the same length and height as the koolance radiator setup:

Installed.jpg

I am still screwing around with this whole thing, but I have the chiller set to cool within X degrees of room temp. I have been running for 25 mins thus far under full load and its been keeping my CPU temps at ~40.5C - 41.13C running at 4.0GHz and 1.45v. Whats also kinda unexpected is the compressor doesnt run all the time to keep these temps. The pump is always going (of course), but the compressor initially doesnt run. I would estimate maybe 5 mins @ full load is needed before it kicks in. It runs for a few mins, then shuts off again. Temps are always maintained. It just went through another cycle but this one was substantially longer.

20minfullload.jpg


EDIT

Did a bit more tweaking and got better results. Been running at this for about an hour thus far:

4125ghz.PNG
 
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I was wondering if something like this would allow you to keep the chiller on its own loop and then each PC on their own loop. Not sure if you needed something like that; I saw it awhile ago while reading up on water chillers. I think I read that other companies make heavy duty versions of these. I have no idea how well they work though.
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=54_119_119

Performance-pcs sells them.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/wate...-hxp-193-plate-heat-exchanger-no-nozzles.html

And congrats on the build! It is a MONSTER! :)

hxp-193_p1-700x700.jpg
 
How are your VRM temperatures while pushing 4.15ghz? Plus power at the plug for the system?
 
Damn, that's what you call kicking ass and not bothering to take names! :wideyed:

Are those 3/8" (10mm) barbs on the back? And seriously, WTF is up with the level indicator on the back of the unit? It really ought to be on the front. Other than that it looks top notch!
 
Just for the gpus? Why just for the gpus? You haven't even picked out blocks yet? Anyways those Koolance systems suck and on that matter I think your case is not up to the task specifically for the wattage and lack of radiator locations. Now if your going external that doesn't matter. That case was cool a few years ago with a lot of modding. Today it doesn't cut it with abundance of modern wc cases, like an Enthoo Primo. If you're going to go external get a mo-ra3 or phobya extreme external. You could build a chain of 3 1080 rads for the price of that Koolance unit lol. Btw, did you read the fine print on the Koolance, 2400w cooling at 25c delta, lmao. The ideal cooling delta is 10c. As far as gpu blocks, I prefer the EK ecosystem.

I was wondering if something like this would work just fine in an external WC system. Of course you'd need to convert the inlet and outlet to the proper size which should be really easy.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-to-Ai...hash=item463f0e7d59:m:m9n77eU-93NbMkdKt24HSyQ
 
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I was wondering if something like this would allow you to keep the chiller on its own loop and then each PC on their own loop. Not sure if you needed something like that; I saw it awhile ago while reading up on water chillers. I think I read that other companies make heavy duty versions of these. I have no idea how well they work though.
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=54_119_119

Performance-pcs sells them.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/wate...-hxp-193-plate-heat-exchanger-no-nozzles.html

And congrats on the build! It is a MONSTER! :)

hxp-193_p1-700x700.jpg


A liquid to liquid heat exchanger! Thats a really good idea!!! Whats odd is I recall seeing these a LONG time back but I completely forgot these existed.. Thanks for the reminder!! Let me know if you run across any performance info on these. Hopefully they are copper core as everything i have is. I believe there are instances where this style liquid to liquid exchanger is made of stainless steel (since they never know what liquids you are using), but that would obviously not be very efficient in this type of application.

And thanks! This build is most definitely outside the bounds of what is necessary, but its fun! :)

EDIT: I ordered a couple of them. We shall see! Says it will do a 20C drop from inlet to outlet. I got 2 comin gjust in case..
 
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I was wondering if something like this would work just fine in an external WC system. Of course you'd need to convert the inlet and outlet to the proper size which should be really easy.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-to-Ai...hash=item463f0e7d59:m:m9n77eU-93NbMkdKt24HSyQ

Sure, you could always adapt anything along those lines and make it work. There are a couple issues though when you start going down the kind of road you suggest:

1) Aesthetics. Of course this doesn't apply to everyone, but in my case I need to care about it.
2) Pump power. When you convert something over from another application you need to concern yourself about how much pressure you need to pump coolant through it. There are a bunch of variables in this and while they can all be addressed, it is something that can cause problems if you aren't careful.

While i would never knock someone for converting one of these and using it on their computer, its hard to justify when there are a bunch of computer water cooling components readily available. If that werent the case (and believe me, it hasnt always been this way) then I would be all over it!
 
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Damn, that's what you call kicking ass and not bothering to take names! :wideyed:

Are those 3/8" (10mm) barbs on the back? And seriously, WTF is up with the level indicator on the back of the unit? It really ought to be on the front. Other than that it looks top notch!

Fo shizzle... :)

The barbs needed to be converted, but yes I am running 1/2" ID tubing.
 
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How are your VRM temperatures while pushing 4.15ghz? Plus power at the plug for the system?

VRM temp doesnt appear to be too bad. Not sure how accurate HWINFO is, but it reports it being 44C @ 4200MHz with 1.35v. FYI: I do have a large but slow moving fan blowing over the whole CPU area including the VRM's (Fan: 220x30mm, 41CFM). Plus, the Zenith Extreme does have a fan under the VRM heatsink, so I am sure both those things play a role here. I do have a kill-a-watt to measure the draw at teh plug, but there is an estimate in HWINFO too. I put an arrow by it in the lower right.

VRM.jpg


Doing some more tweaking. I was trying for 4.25GHz on the same settings as above but it locked up about 10 mins of being under full load. I upped voltage to 1.5v and its stable now. Been running for over 20 mins full load and streaming youtube crap in the background, and using the system to do stuff. This thing is crazy fast!! Here are the temps:

4250ghz.PNG
 
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I am hitting some weird "walls". Ryzen Master will not let me do a CPU voltage above 1.55v. I can set it higher via UEFI (I tried 1.6v) and while UEFI reported 1.6v, Ryzen Master still reported 1.55v. I could technically get the CPU into Windows at 4350MHz, but it would lock up after a couple minutes (even if I wasn't doing anything). I started backing down to find something stable and for now it appears thats somewhere around 4200 - 4225. I still need to do a lot of work to be what I would consider completely stable at these speeds, but it can be done. I am still using the chiller only to cool temps back down to ambient, so I have not gone anywhere near as low a temp on the coolant as I could. For kicks, here is a CPU-Z benchmark at 4225MHz, 1.55v set in UEFI (Link to results: https://valid.x86.fr/q52nzm):

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1.55v and up? It's about time you break out the Fluke/meter at that voltage man. In the name of science!
 
1.55v and up? It's about time you break out the Fluke/meter at that voltage man. In the name of science!

I might just have to do that. I have an el-cheapo $10 radio shack meter here somewhere so while its no Fluke, it still should work.. :)
 
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