Network pics thread

Two months ago, I set up a Untangle box for them, and turned their dlink unit into a wap, knowing it was providing shit range, I decided to grab for them. I really wanted to buy them the EAP9550, but getting the wire to the second floor for poe & the unit, was a PITA, so i said screw it, and got this for them Emgemois ECB3500.

DSCN3265.JPG


DSCN3266.JPG
 
Those are nice! I set one up last summer as part of a point to point wifi link.

it's only wireless "G" but they don't need N they only have iphones and a low grade laptop, but when im there i wanted a steady connection LOL!
 
Top
7286249876_e7a333b3ef.jpg

Middle
7286250386_da9e26e60c.jpg

Bottom
7286250150_ee7d83bc02.jpg


My little lab.

The patch panel below the F5 provides crossover for the T1 and 56K lines.

Top to bottom
In the back not seen is a Linksys AP with DD-WRT(thinks it's a router) Saati
Dlink DSS-16+
WS-C2924M-XL-EN Mononoke
WS-C2924-XL-EN Akime
Armatige, console for most except the 3640
Behind is Yohio a very broken Dell Latitude, the battery, keyboard, PCMCIA, and screen hing are broken, I had to re-solder the USB connection. It provides console to the 3640
2620 Ping
2620 Miho
2611 Pupet
2610 Nadesico
F5 replaced original HW is WIP right now
Motoko UML server (Mitsumi,Digiko,Yuubin,Tomo)
3640 Dominion
Omoikane WIP
Dell Power edge 2450 Boat Anchor

Not Seen, in closet:
WS-C3512-XL Ruri
2524 Bonaparte
HP 4000 Baka
Ph33nix backup system if laptop dies
PC tower

Other:
Naru main laptop
Linksys with DD-WRT Sheeta
PIX 501 Yukino
2620 Chihiro
Nene my 1998 gaming system
Soyokaze 486 Laptop, for sniffing.
 
"come in my room, the reception is great, wait till you see it!"
...
"97 mbit per second! Hey, why are your clothes off?"
 
are those ASA 5585 worth the money?

Well it's all about forwarding, right? If you NEED the throughput, yeah, definitely. The 5500X (5512X-5545X) are very solid. They can do some good forwarding, but not the 5585X level. They'll also be the first to get the CX functionality, which could be a big deal.
 
ahhh the T1 connection, loved them for lan parties, we used to crash the dang things every fifteen minutes or so... and that was mainly with server heartbeats... dunno how or if it was just qwest and their crappy service or what but we kept having to reset the modem or whatever he had for it at the time, it was a major pain but i guess it was still a decent lan party, just didnt have the internet for the servers, they kept going down lol. other than that I havent seen them used in forever I still dont think I have ever set up a T1 line myself, gear wise I dont think i ever even used them in a company setting.
 
ahhh the T1 connection, loved them for lan parties, we used to crash the dang things every fifteen minutes or so... and that was mainly with server heartbeats... dunno how or if it was just qwest and their crappy service or what but we kept having to reset the modem or whatever he had for it at the time, it was a major pain but i guess it was still a decent lan party, just didnt have the internet for the servers, they kept going down lol. other than that I havent seen them used in forever I still dont think I have ever set up a T1 line myself, gear wise I dont think i ever even used them in a company setting.

Odds are you were messing up the router or modem by filling the statetable. Refreshing server lists are killer to low-end gear.
 
That could have been, back in that time I knew nothing of networking or server class hardware.. i was just a little system builder.
 
T1's are surprisingly used a lot still, but mostly for voice. Rather than getting a bunch of separate phone lines you can get a T1 or T3 trunk. Crazy expensive but cheaper than running fiber.
 
our voice comes in on a PRI which is delivered over a T1.
23 B channels and 1 D channel vs 24 B channels on a plain T1.
 
Actually yeah most of the time PRI is what is used I believe. Not sure what the advantage is over plain T1 though. I guess it's easier to troubleshoot/program. I know from the DMS end one can check individual PRI channels for activity, run tests etc.. Not sure about a raw T1. I'm not too familiar with that end yet.



My new UPS setup:


(my camera takes terrible pictures in the basement, I don't know why. They're always out of focus)

That's a Tripp-Lite APS750 750w inverter-charger I got off ebay. Surprisingly hard to find an inverter-charger that does pure sine wave and can switch fast enough for computer equipment to not notice. You'd think these would be more available but they arn't. I would have rather go with 24v or 48v system though but this does the job. This one is not pure sine but it's a compromise between square and pure sine so it gets the job done. I have two 100AH marine batteries hooked up to it.

I ran a test and it ran a 300w load for about 5 hours. My initial calculation was 8h but that was without taking inefficiency and voltage drop into account. As the voltage drops, the current drawn is higher, so this makes the battery depleat faster. I was not checking often enough but my last reading was 11.1 so my guess is the shut off is at 11 volts. This is some logging I took, thought I'd share:

time voltage
1:00 12.3
1:22 12.2
2:10 12.1
2:21 12.1
3:17 11.9
3:40 11.8
4:26 11.6
4:39 11.7
5:04 11.4
5:42 11.1


Now I just need to find a way to read the voltage through my linux box so I can monitor it remotely and possibly even have an automated process that shuts down everything when it reaches 11.2 or so.

Eventually I want to get a cable crimper and ends and a roll of cable so I can make my own cables, and also a solid shelf for the unit as well as the batteries to get them off the floor in case of water issues, but for now it will do. The display of the unit is actually where the cables connect and because I could not find cables that were longer I had no choice but to place it that way.

My far future goal is a fully online high capacity (3kw or so) 48v system though but this will do for now. It's not so much that my stuff is critical, but that it is hard on the equipment to cold boot it because a lot of it is old, so I rather ride through outages and keep the disks spinning then to have them turn off. Had a 2 hour power outage the other day but this was not arrived yet. I will keep it running on my test load for a few more days then put my server stuff on it. Summer is notorious for 1-4h outages due to the construction in my area as well as the wind/storms. We had a 4h one last year that nearly killed my server. Ended up putting over 1k into it to get it going again. A typical UPS will only last a few minutes.
 
I find it amusing how times change.

My network setup went from

IMG_00281.jpg


180GB of ram, about 10TB of disk...

To...

currentnet.jpg


100mbit switch and a unifi.
 
IT downsizing! Our jobs!!! :p

Actually I'm decomissining my game server in a few days. One of the main purposes of my home server environment was the dev/test environments of that game server, and now it will be gone. I need to look into another project now before I decide to downsize my stuff too. :eek: Probably wont happen though, I store all my data on that server from website dev, backups, emails etc.... If anything I need to expand and add more disk space.

Those unifis look nice though, I may consider one at one point. My playbook is the only wireless device I use, and it does not like my dlink for some reason. Maybe a unifi would work better.
 
Leaving battery connections exposed like that is a bad idea. If a metal object is dropped on them you can get MASSIVE currents flowing though them.

I've been brainstorming on best way to go about taking care of that. I may put them into a large flat Tupperware container and just vent it. Since yeah if I was to drop something on that it would not be pretty. They do make battery boxes but that would require me to order something online, I can get a tupperware container of any size I want at Walmart or Canadian Tire. :D In fact I could go an extra mile and vent it directly outside, though for that small amount of batteries the hydrogen will just dissipate into the air. In the future if I make a bigger 48v system I will probably have it in a cabinet and have a system of some sort to either vent it outside or recycle it into water/oxygen.
 
In the future if I make a bigger 48v system I will probably have it in a cabinet and have a system of some sort to either vent it outside or recycle it into water/oxygen.
Sounds neat. But do you think you can do it without having to order anything online?
 
Mostly pipes/fans that I can easily get. At that point I'd be ordering rectifiers and inverters online so I'm not totally against ordering stuff online, I just hate doing it for small stuff where shipping and customs will cost more than the item itself.
 
Leaving battery connections exposed like that is a bad idea. If a metal object is dropped on them you can get MASSIVE currents flowing though them.


Plastic cups can be bought for the terminals for like 3$ each. ..


It's all been replaced with more and is colocated. The amount of money I spent on power and internet was not worth it to keep that at home.

Really ? all the old stuff you have i could see it hogging power, but you could probably put all that into one server, and save on power. Mind you, what was your internet bill tho ?
 
Really ? all the old stuff you have i could see it hogging power, but you could probably put all that into one server, and save on power. Mind you, what was your internet bill tho ?


Some of it was old, most was just hiding in whatever case I had lying around. Most of my systems now live in Supermicro v-twin's
 
How can colo be cheaper though? Isin't that like over 100 bucks a month per server typically? Colo makes sense if you have services to offer as home bandwidth usually sucks, but for personal stuff?
 
How can colo be cheaper though? Isin't that like over 100 bucks a month per server typically? Colo makes sense if you have services to offer as home bandwidth usually sucks, but for personal stuff?

That's what i would think too, Colo means they MONITOR everything to the last byte & watt LOL, unless you have friends there or something.

I have a shaw Business package 50$ month with 1 static ip and 5 dynamic, and a 50 down 6mb up.

My rack full o goodies is pulling 330watts right now AND that has 3 test switches and a small firewall on it just sitting there doing nothing...
 
Actually yeah most of the time PRI is what is used I believe. Not sure what the advantage is over plain T1 though. I guess it's easier to troubleshoot/program. I know from the DMS end one can check individual PRI channels for activity, run tests etc.. Not sure about a raw T1. I'm not too familiar with that end yet.



My new UPS setup:

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1328-dsc04396.JPG
(my camera takes terrible pictures in the basement, I don't know why. They're always out of focus)

That's a Tripp-Lite APS750 750w inverter-charger I got off ebay. Surprisingly hard to find an inverter-charger that does pure sine wave and can switch fast enough for computer equipment to not notice. You'd think these would be more available but they arn't. I would have rather go with 24v or 48v system though but this does the job. This one is not pure sine but it's a compromise between square and pure sine so it gets the job done. I have two 100AH marine batteries hooked up to it.

I ran a test and it ran a 300w load for about 5 hours. My initial calculation was 8h but that was without taking inefficiency and voltage drop into account. As the voltage drops, the current drawn is higher, so this makes the battery depleat faster. I was not checking often enough but my last reading was 11.1 so my guess is the shut off is at 11 volts. This is some logging I took, thought I'd share:

time voltage
1:00 12.3
1:22 12.2
2:10 12.1
2:21 12.1
3:17 11.9
3:40 11.8
4:26 11.6
4:39 11.7
5:04 11.4
5:42 11.1


Now I just need to find a way to read the voltage through my linux box so I can monitor it remotely and possibly even have an automated process that shuts down everything when it reaches 11.2 or so.

Eventually I want to get a cable crimper and ends and a roll of cable so I can make my own cables, and also a solid shelf for the unit as well as the batteries to get them off the floor in case of water issues, but for now it will do. The display of the unit is actually where the cables connect and because I could not find cables that were longer I had no choice but to place it that way.

My far future goal is a fully online high capacity (3kw or so) 48v system though but this will do for now. It's not so much that my stuff is critical, but that it is hard on the equipment to cold boot it because a lot of it is old, so I rather ride through outages and keep the disks spinning then to have them turn off. Had a 2 hour power outage the other day but this was not arrived yet. I will keep it running on my test load for a few more days then put my server stuff on it. Summer is notorious for 1-4h outages due to the construction in my area as well as the wind/storms. We had a 4h one last year that nearly killed my server. Ended up putting over 1k into it to get it going again. A typical UPS will only last a few minutes.
What are you using to switch from wall power to battery power when power goes out? How do you have those connected? Could you draw up a diagram? :D
 
Not sure if you know this, but the batteries you are using are car batteries designed to be used with a high draw starter, not really ideally suited for this type of application. They are quick draw deep cycle where as you need sustained draw on a lower amperage. This is the reason why UPS batteries have much smaller terminals and can sustain for such long periods of time.

Doing that a few times with a car battery will eventually kill it. There is a reason why you pay $184 for a UPS battery ;)


You can buy a UPS on the cheap on craigslist, probably cheaper than you spent on that setup.


Not knocking you, just trying to show alternative here in that the DIY is not always better (or safer in this case too).
 
Not sure if you know this, but the batteries you are using are car batteries designed to be used with a high draw starter, not really ideally suited for this type of application. They are quick draw deep cycle where as you need sustained draw on a lower amperage. This is the reason why UPS batteries have much smaller terminals and can sustain for such long periods of time.

Doing that a few times with a car battery will eventually kill it. There is a reason why you pay $184 for a UPS battery ;)


You can buy a UPS on the cheap on craigslist, probably cheaper than you spent on that setup.


Not knocking you, just trying to show alternative here in that the DIY is not always better (or safer in this case too).

the theory seems sounds though

I have a large local hobby place here, hobbico, and they carry TONS of batteries.

I just bought some 350w replacements for some older APC's for 12 bucks a piece.

I think I need to reserach the bigger UPS sizes and see if they have matching batteries.......
 
Not sure if you know this, but the batteries you are using are car batteries designed to be used with a high draw starter, not really ideally suited for this type of application. They are quick draw deep cycle where as you need sustained draw on a lower amperage. This is the reason why UPS batteries have much smaller terminals and can sustain for such long periods of time.

Doing that a few times with a car battery will eventually kill it. There is a reason why you pay $184 for a UPS battery ;)


You can buy a UPS on the cheap on craigslist, probably cheaper than you spent on that setup.


Not knocking you, just trying to show alternative here in that the DIY is not always better (or safer in this case too).

He's got deep cycle marine battery. Not the most ideal no, but they'll work just fine.

I use one for tailgating. Keeps my TV and DirecTV box powered up just fine for hours.
 
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