NEC MultiSync LCD3090WQXi-BK spotted

albovin said:
Do you mean auto luminance or auto brightness?

This is ToastyX photo of comparison monitors with and without "glow".
I would never call this IPS glow as *VA panels have worse glow.
This definition is an internal invention of this forum. That's why it confuses you.
I would call this just LCD glow.
2490/2690 miraculously are free of LCD glow (actually have minimal violet/bluish tint of black in darkness - what older IPS and modern PVA have in full). This is usually attributed to co-called polarizer that some H-IPS monitors have. Violet tint of black is visible from a sharp diagonal angle from the right hand side only. "Non-polarized" IPS and *VA have equal violet/bluish tint of black from both sides.
Unfortunately you don't have 2490/2690 with A-TW H-IPS to compare.

Thank you, I remember that link about H-IPS. But it's strange that H-IPS is not mentioned on major websites. This is a big advantage and it must have been on the front pages.
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I can notice black turning violet quite well and even on not-so-extreme angle on 2690. But only when looking right to left (left corner), not left to right. I noticed you post screens of 2690 (or 2490) taken from left to right, which does not show the violet tint.
*VAs which I tested don't seem to suffer from black turning blue or violet, but the glow and the loss of detailf in dark tones were obvious.
 
Black starts turning white (or "glowing" as was previously mentioned) when you are off angle with this monitor. You have to be pretty far off though, so I'm not sure that it would ever be important for most users...
 
Given that this is a wide gamut monitor what do you do in non color aware programs? Has anybody managed to calibrate it to sRGB? As far as I remember this was impossible with the 2690.
 
sound31 said:
Given that this is a wide gamut monitor what do you do in non color aware programs? Has anybody managed to calibrate it to sRGB? As far as I remember this was impossible with the 2690.
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I would think the answer is yes. You can calibrate it to both D65 or 6500K, and gamma 2.2. More importantly, you can load and calibrate it to a custom gamma curve (not just 2.2) with Spectraview II, which I would guess would get rid of the wide gamut. The predefined custom options are sRGB, L*, NTSC Video, and SMPTE-240M...
 
n0xlf said:
I did some testing and found that 230 is as low as the backlight can actually go. Anything lower and it's just electronically dimming the display through the panel itself, and anything higher and it starts cranking up the backlight, so 230 is the "sweet spot" for max brightness with max monitor longevity.
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230cd/m2 is extremely bright unless you're using the monitor in an extremely brightly lit area. I find that anything over 100cd/m2 is too bright for me.

Are you sure that there's no way to dim the backlight on this monitor below 230cd/m2? Doesn't it have a half-brightness power-saving mode or some such thing?

By the way, how can you tell when it stops lowering the backlight and starts decreasing brightness on the LCD itself?
 
After returning two Dell 2408's (non-uniform colors at various angles, etc.). I purchased the NEC LCD3090WQXI-BKI based on forum information, especially here. Well, my experience has been mixed so far. The problem I'm having is backlight bleeding. I've gone through three displays: One has a (3/4" height, 5" width) kidney-shaped bleeding from the top center of the screen; one has severe backlight bleeding throughout the center of the screen, including the top center; the last one has a kidney-shaped like the first except the right side (of the kidney) is about 2" thick. All backlight bleeding was tested against a black background. The backlight bleeding from the top center of the display appears to be caused by the pressure of the frame/bezel.

Anyway, the first display is almost perfect if not for the minimal backlight bleeding. I find the (un-calibrated for now) color to uniform across various angles, the black text against a white background as good as my Samsung 213T (despite what people say about IPS displays), black is nearly black, HD movies are surprisingly sharp, and of course, photos from my Nikon D300 are as good as it gets. However, I am bothered by the backlight bleeding near the top of display because I occasionally work with black/white photography; if the backlight bleeding is near the left bottom corner, I won't think it's an issue at all.

Any owners of the lcd3090wqxi experience any backlight bleeding similar to mine? I'm starting to wonder if this is NEC problem with mounting the frame.

Thanks,
Jerome
 
Hi Jerome,

Check out the posts I made in the "My 2690 review" thread. I did a live chat with NEC tech support yesterday afternoon. They have had several complaints about bleeding on the 2690 and 3090s lately. They suggest running the display at 100% brightness for a week to break it in. I just started this yesterday for my 2690s. If it doesn't clear things up (and I am skeptical that it will), I may be returning both of these 2690s to await word that the problem is fixed. I agree it seems like it's pressure from the bezel that causes this problem. Pressing on the bezel or panel, even very lightly, shifts the bleeding or eliminates it. However, I'm not interested in installing shims in the bezel to fix this.

I suggest doing a live chat with NEC so that they know it is really an issue. Let us know how it goes.
 
Can you take a picture of what you are seeing with the backlight bleeding? I want to check mine out again, but I'm almost sure that I don't have any issues...

As far as the brightness issue, you can tell when it stops lowering the backlight because the brightness stops at 277 (estimated on the OSD). Anything below that and it turns pink, indicating that it is using the panel itself to lower brightness (which can result in a loss of contrast). When calibrating to 230, the brightness shows as 277. Anything below that and it still shows as 277 (when calibrated, because it's doing it off of the gamma). Anything above 230 and the brightness starts climbing above 277. The other way to tell is that the OSD is always shown at the native brightness, so if you calibrate to something really low, the OSD is still bright. Kind of confusing, but it makes sense when it's in front of you.

I don't find 230 all that bright. It is capable of going quite a bit more, which becomes somewhat blinding. 140 is good for photo work, but I find it too dim for anything else. With mine calibrated at 140/D65, it is very close to the sRGB Costco printer profile when I preview/convert in Photoshop. Only printing would tell for sure, but the preview shows very little change on a variety of pics. I have another monitor that is calibrated higher, which does show a pretty big contrast shift when previewed on the Costco profile.
 
Brightness on top of being relative to your surroundings has to be the most subjective thing going. My Dell 3007 HC with the backlight on Zero is still too bright for me. Given that it is only a 300cd/m2 panel to begin with, I am sure it is under 200cd/m2, but that is still too bright for these eyes. I like CRT level brightness. Which tended to be around 100cd/m2. Heck I even turn down the brightness on my CRT.
 
just got my two 3090s today, one will only display vertical stripes fullscreen, whether or not anythings plugged into it, so i guess ill discuss with necs chat tomorrow.
also, on the second monitor i have two full-green pixels, i dont know their policy on that.

i did one the working one, use spectraview 2 with my spyder3 to calibrate it, after adjusting the monitor thru its hidden 'tech menu' to improve things such as response time. i set my luminance to 180cd/m for now.

some settings like in spectraviews preferences "correct color in deep blacks or increased contrast" choices, i wonder what the least loss is over the two choices since you have to choose one over the other.

and suprisingly the monitor is deeper than my 52" phillips lcd, but i guess thats a deeper-placed light to more evenly light the front panel.
 
Snowdog said:
Brightness on top of being relative to your surroundings has to be the most subjective thing going. My Dell 3007 HC with the backlight on Zero is still too bright for me. Given that it is only a 300cd/m2 panel to begin with, I am sure it is under 200cd/m2, but that is still too bright for these eyes. I like CRT level brightness. Which tended to be around 100cd/m2. Heck I even turn down the brightness on my CRT.
Click to expand...

Relax. What is reported looks like a total mess in inderstanding the monitor brightness, etc.
I don't appreciate it when the owner of a potentially best monitor in world is mumbling his guesses about brightness and contrast instead of doing @@@@@@ measurements with the colorimeter he has in front of him.
 
terranaut,

do you see any backlight bleeding? Mine has two kidney-shaped light bleeding from the top center of the display. I have taken a picture but I"m still figuring out how to attach it.
 
i have one DOA 3090 and one working one (but with bad pixels). the backlight bleeding i would consider negligible on this working one. and thats coming from someone who returned multiple dell 3008s until i have up on them and waited for this 3090.

------------------------
UPDATE- i rma'ed the one defective monitor that was doa, and on my second 3090, when it goes into power saving mode it squeals loud enough to be heard in the next room, a highpitched teakettle whistle....
is anyone else finding this highpitch squeal when its in standby? else i must RMA my second 3090 to get that resolved as well
 
albovin said:
Relax. What is reported looks like a total mess in inderstanding the monitor brightness, etc.
I don't appreciate it when the owner of a potentially best monitor in world is mumbling his guesses about brightness and contrast instead of doing @@@@@@ measurements with the colorimeter he has in front of him.
Click to expand...

I'll assume that you are referring to me. If you read my post carefully, you would see that the i1 would be useless in this scenario. For your benefit, I'll explain it again, and perhaps a little differently:

-The monitor controls brightness in two ways - One is through the actual dimming of the backlight and the other is through blocking the backlight via the panel itself. This is evident by both the instruction manual and observing the brightness level of the OSD when in "blocking mode" (for lack of a better term).

-A calibrated brightness level of 230 is the lowest cutoff that I found for dimming the backlight. Anything lower and it's simply blocking the backlight, hence my comment about 230 being the "sweet spot".

-The monitor (inaccurately) estimates illumination in cd/m2 when in certain modes and displays that on the OSD. Anything below a level of 277 on the OSD turns pink, indicating that it is starting to block the backlight rather than lower it.

-Don't let any of this scare you off in relation to brightness. My calibration at 140 still looks incredible, even in "blocking mode".

-Taken from wikipedia, which I think helps explain this backlight issue - "In-plane switching is an LCD technology which aligns the liquid crystal cells in a horizontal direction. In this method, the electrical field is applied through each end of the crystal, but this requires two transistors for each pixel instead of the single transistor needed for a standard thin-film transistor (TFT) display. This results in blocking more transmission area, thus requiring a brighter backlight, which will consume more power, making this type of display less desirable for notebook computers."

As an "owner of a potentially best monitor in world", I am not obligated to say ANYTHING about it, so don't get so upset when you don't understand something. As I mentioned before, this monitor and Spectraview II can be very complicated in certain respects, making it somewhat difficult to explain things unless it's sitting right in front of you. I am adding comments here only for the benefit of those who are curious about this display, not to be criticized and attacked.

That being said, I refuse to lower myself to your level, as I've seen way too many forums and posts go down hill over that kind of nonsense...
 
terranaut said:
i have one DOA 3090 and one working one (but with bad pixels). the backlight bleeding i would consider negligible on this working one. and thats coming from someone who returned multiple dell 3008s until i have up on them and waited for this 3090.

------------------------
UPDATE- i rma'ed the one defective monitor that was doa, and on my second 3090, when it goes into power saving mode it squeals loud enough to be heard in the next room, a highpitched teakettle whistle....
is anyone else finding this highpitch squeal when its in standby? else i must RMA my second 3090 to get that resolved as well
Click to expand...

Terranaut - I PM'd you my order number from B&H - Did they ever hook you up with that deal? And mine doesn't squeal...I'm beginning to feel very lucky with what I got!
 
By what means are you certain where the backlight is at minimum and the LCD engages for further attenuation. Almost all other panels I have seen, have the brightness control = backlight control.

Getting a tint on color is not a solid indication that the LCD is being used to attentuate. It may be a characteristic of the backlight itself at lower output levels revealing a tint.

It is a concern with the majority of modern big panels. They all have too powerful backlights and limited range of control. Once you start relying on the panel to attenuate the light you are eating into the meager contrast ratio of the panel. Just so they can quote a higher number for marketing. What about real usable contrast? Who cares about that? Quoted contrast on the spec sheet; that is what really matters.
 
I may have not been clear on the "pink" issue. If you lower the brightness on the OSD, it stops (until you attempt to lower it again) at 277 (or 70something percent if you are in a mode that is displaying it that way). The displayed number itself is what turns pink, indicating that you are falling below the backlight lowering threshold and crossing into the "blocking mode". I would suspect that other panels (especially IPS based) probably do this, but may not be as nice as NEC to tell you...

You hit the nail on the head with the contrast ratio though...

NEC calls it "magenta" and not pink - Read the note on page 13 of the manual:
http://www.necdisplay.com/cms/documents/UserManuals/LCD3090WQXi_CD_EN_V04.pdf

Apparently they also call "very low brightness" anything below 277/70something percent.

And for the icing on the cake of the confusing brightness issue, I'll restate the issue about ECO mode (page 13 in the manual). The 50% setting brings the brightness well into the "blocking mode" area, so how are you then saving power over the 25% mode?
 
Ah, I see. Though I suspect this is NEC only. It has nothing to do with IPS. Most panels brightness = backlight control.

On my Dell 3007hc, If I listen carefully I can here the buzz change character with brightness adjustments right down to zero. At which point it is still too bright. NEC give you something less than too bright, but uses panel attenuation. With others you need to visit the graphics car adjustment to achieve that. A pet peeve of mine as I don't like very bright displays.
 
n0xlf said:
And for the icing on the cake of the confusing brightness issue, I'll restate the issue about ECO mode (page 13 in the manual). The 50% setting brings the brightness well into the "blocking mode" area, so how are you then saving power over the 25% mode?
Click to expand...

That ECO mode definitely makes no sense as explained in the manual:

"Decreases the amount of power consumed by reducing the brightness level."

The amount of power consumed will only change by adjusting the backlight. Adjusting the "blocking" of the panel (or digital brightness) should have no effect on power consumed. Are you sure that switching to the 25% vs. 50% ECO mode is actually changing the blocking and not just the backlight? Maybe try disabling all the auto brightness, luminance, etc. modes in case they are interfering.

One way to be 100% sure of that's happening is to use a Kill-A-Watt or similar power meter device. When I had one hooked up to a Dell 2001FP at work, I saw it smoothly drop from 75Watts to 45Watts as i lowered brightness from 100% to 0%. It was doing nothing to the blocking or digital brightness.
 
i ordered two of the lcds from b&h and they told me it was a price mistake and that if some had already shipped to people for $1714 delivered they couldnt do anything about it, but they cancelled my order and any others, so i didnt give your order number because i dont want to make your order stand out, but at $1714 delivered wow what a deal you got. i got two from onsale for $1849 each delivered (they had it at that price for a month+).

so i guess ill be returning both my 3090s, one was DOA and the other has bad pixels and whines when in standby.

i spent 11 hours yesterday just trying to get the 3090s advanced menus and spectraview2 working with my spyder3 calibrator. there are some settings i question in spectraview, ill post them later...

one question is, in the advanced menu of the 3090, they have a 'improve response time' ON/OFF. im wondering why they would hide that in the advanced menu, and why it just isnt enabled by default (whod want a slow response time) and what the tradeoff is enabling it (does it reduce constrast or sharpness or ???)

in spectraview, i use as a target-
white point - 6500K
intensity -140cd/m
contrast ratio - monitor default
gamma - 2.2

and in prefs i use-
average lowlight measure - on
calibration steps - 52
priority - maximize contrast ratio (although i still wonder if 'best greyscale tracking' is a better choice considering my target)
auto luminance - off
primary chromacity source - factory measurement

and the 3090 menu i use-
brightness - 82.2% (thats set by using spectraview automatically)
contrast - 50%
eco - off
auto brightness - off
black level - 50%

does all look good with these settings, anything i should know about? my problem is, once calibrated i go to 'colorimeter window' to ensure the monitor is profiled at 6500 correctly.
but once i turn the monitor off and let it warm up, or it goes to standby, or i go into the lcds menu, then the 6500 drops down to 6000-6100 and never comes back around to 6500 again. odd.
 
I'll play with ECO mode and see what I find. It's easy to tell what it's doing because the OSD retains the brightness level of the backlight, regardless as to what "blocking" it's doing...

The response time setting baffles me as well. Makes no sense that it's defaulted to off and buried in the other menu.

I'm surprised by your brightness of 82.2 at calibrated 140 though. Is that 82.2 shown in magenta? Or if you try to manually go below that does it turn magenta? My whole screen goes black if I try to manually go below what it sets once calibrated.

Also, auto luminance seems to be a good thing (at level 1 and not 2 or 3 which tries to adjust color). It enables a sensor inside to monitor the backlight and compensates for it as it warms up. Once you enable that, you brightness will change units, so let me know number you see there if you turn it on.

Sorry to hear about the B&H deal, but it sounds like you came out alright anyway.
 
n0xlf said:
If you read my post carefully, you would see that the i1 would be useless in this scenario.
That being said, I refuse to lower myself to your level, as I've seen way too many forums and posts go down hill over that kind of nonsense...
Click to expand...

You really need to lower yourself to my level to understand basics of i1 and SpectraView work with NEC XX90 monitors.
It's a shame to read your stupid remarks like this: "the i1 would be useless in this scenario".

You are lucky that few people in this forum are familiar with SpectraView.
Otherwise you would get some comments you deserve (in better English than mine).
 
An update on the backlight bleeding on my 2690s: As NEC tech support suggested, I have been running them at 100% brightness since Monday, and sure enough, when I got back into town tonight, they are much better! One in particular is almost perfect now, particularly when turning the brightness down to a usable level like 24%. I'll be running these for a few more days. Unfortunately I don't need two of these- one is the RMA advance replacement unit, so I'll have to send one back shortly. I'll post before & after photos after a week or so has gone by.
 
That's amazing that the 100% backlight thing did anything...I wonder why that is...

Albovin - Please stop commenting in this thread if you don't have anything useful to say. Myself and others in this thread have spent a lot of money on this display and are trying to share information among current and potential future owners to better everyone's experience surrounding it. It may be that your understanding of English is making you sound harsher than you mean to be, but I'm done with your attitude...Like I said before, there always seems to be one person like you that comes around and taints what is otherwise a great open source of information sharing. It turns useful threads like this into crap that ends up getting either locked or deleted. I'm asking you as nicely as I can to please stop. If you don't, I'll ask a moderator to take care of the situation. I welcome any questions that you have and am more than willing to explain them to you the best I can. Past this comment, you won't hear another word out of me about you, unless it's on topic...
 
n0xlf said:
That's amazing that the 100% backlight thing did anything...I wonder why that is...

Albovin - Please stop commenting in this thread if you don't have anything useful to say. Myself and others in this thread have spent a lot of money on this display and are trying to share information among current and potential future owners to better everyone's experience surrounding it. It may be that your understanding of English is making you sound harsher than you mean to be, but I'm done with your attitude...Like I said before, there always seems to be one person like you that comes around and taints what is otherwise a great open source of information sharing. It turns useful threads like this into crap that ends up getting either locked or deleted. I'm asking you as nicely as I can to please stop. If you don't, I'll ask a moderator to take care of the situation. I welcome any questions that you have and am more than willing to explain them to you the best I can. Past this comment, you won't hear another word out of me about you, unless it's on topic...
Click to expand...

I appreciate your care of others and I'am willing to participate.
Sure I don't mean anything to insult you. I may sound sarcastic pointing out wrong things in your posts that mislead "current and potential future owners " (use of inappropriate brightness value from OSM instead of proper measurement in cd/m2, presenting calibration to sRGB curve as a method to resolve wide gamut issue, repeating over and over the role of the panel itself in brightness regulation in low brightness mode (it's new for you but not for NEC users) without giving actual contrast ratio figures - thus creating impression of contrast deficit in this monitor, false statement that i1 is not suitable for testing measurements, etc.)
Believe me, I don't want to hurt you. This is forum.
Maybe my sarcastic style distracts you from technical issues I point out. Well, I will be more reserved.
Nevertheless, attepts to estimate (condescend to) someone's level (I have been using SV NEC for about a year) will be replied appropriately, uncluding the help from moderators if you like.
Your experience with 3090 is very welcome.
Best wishes.
 
n0xlf said:
That's amazing that the 100% backlight thing did anything...I wonder why that is...
Click to expand...

Not really a surprise. Back lights are essentially fluorescent tubes coated on the inside. When new that coating can probably be fairly uneven. Over time the the hot spots would wear the fastest to even out the tube. Running on high for a week, accelerates this.
 
I think the response time/overdrive setting is in the advanced menu and default "off" due to potential corona effects and other visual anomalies that can be caused by overdrive working frame-to-frame for motion.

What's strange about the XX90 series is that when overdrive is enabled, input lag goes down a bit, whereas with other (non S-IPS) monitors that use MVA panels, input lag always rises when overdrive is enabled...I

I wondered about that on the 2690 as well.

Regards,

10e

n0xlf said:
I'll play with ECO mode and see what I find. It's easy to tell what it's doing because the OSD retains the brightness level of the backlight, regardless as to what "blocking" it's doing...

The response time setting baffles me as well. Makes no sense that it's defaulted to off and buried in the other menu.

I'm surprised by your brightness of 82.2 at calibrated 140 though. Is that 82.2 shown in magenta? Or if you try to manually go below that does it turn magenta? My whole screen goes black if I try to manually go below what it sets once calibrated.

Also, auto luminance seems to be a good thing (at level 1 and not 2 or 3 which tries to adjust color). It enables a sensor inside to monitor the backlight and compensates for it as it warms up. Once you enable that, you brightness will change units, so let me know number you see there if you turn it on.

Sorry to hear about the B&H deal, but it sounds like you came out alright anyway.
Click to expand...
 
The i1/SV is not useful in determining what the display is doing in relation to the panel itself lowering brightness (in that you just don't need it). It's obvious at what point the panel is kicking in to block the backlight, based on how the OSD works, the apparent brightness of the OSD itself when brightness it lowered, what the OSD displays (brightness turning magenta), and what the manual says. If anyone is looking for measured contrast ratio with the i1, I'd be happy to accomodate that, but the larger point of the past few pages was the whole backlight/panel blocking issue. Don't get me wrong, the i1/SV is a wonderful tool that provides all kinds of great information. It just wasn't needed to determine what was going on...

In the end, the contrast ratio will decrease (as the manual states) when the panel enters its "blocking" mode, but like I said before, with it calibrated at 140, it still looks great! I haven't had time for ECO mode, but I'll still report on that unless someone beats me to it. Just put it in 50% mode and look at the OSD. If it's brighter than a white screen behind it, then it isn't doing anything with the backlight. If it's the same, then I would wonder why NEC wouldn't allow the backlight to be lowered further in the the OSD, unless "blocking mode" is superior to lower backlight at lower levels (higher contrast ratio?). That would be a question that the i1 could easily answer...
 
Snowdog said:
Not really a surprise. Back lights are essentially fluorescent tubes coated on the inside. When new that coating can probably be fairly uneven. Over time the the hot spots would wear the fastest to even out the tube. Running on high for a week, accelerates this.
Click to expand...

I thought that most backlight bleeding issues were from fitment/alignment problems between the panel itself and the case. Obviously not all though, if the 100% brightness is working to correct it...
 
Yes, that's what I found interesting too. I agree with the "uneven coating" hypothesis, but even still, the bleeding does seem to be pressure-related, and touching the panel or bezel does impact the backlighting even after this break-in period. Like I said, I'll post before & after photos in a few days.
 
n0xlf said:
The i1/SV is not useful in determining what the display is doing in relation to the panel itself lowering brightness (in that you just don't need it).
Click to expand...

The i1/SV is useful in determining what the display is showing.
That's the question.
We have your subjective impressions and observations - Thank you.
Most of them are positive and absolutely predictable.
Some provoke concern - you can see white glow.

What is still missing - any instrumental measurements.
What is this monitor max and min brightness according to different brightness modes?
What is max contrast ratio and how it chages when brightness goes down?
How deep is black, max/min?
What about color accuracy - dE? Diagrams?

Critical point - comparison with 2490/2690.
Is there any advantages in image quality (except higher resolution)?
Any disadvantages (except higher resolution)?

Someone with answers, please?
 
Anyone have any complaints yet? We need some bad things about this monitor to start a debate on the darn thing. I still am yet to find anything I dislike.

In fact, the new monitor inspired me to pick up 2 NEC 2090's (good for sRGB/web work) which i luckily found refurbed for cheap and I just plunked down on the Ergotron LX triple monitor stand. I'll be putting 10lbs more than they say the stand can handle, but I'm hoping I can tighten it down enough to make it work. I'll have the 3090 in landscape mode and then a 2090 on each end in portrait mode.

Once I get everything set up (finishing office up, and setting up stand) I'll be sure to post some pictures.
 
I've noticed a **tiny** bit of backlight bleed that I didn't have before that popped up at the top. Simply pressing on the panel in different spots can change the location or make it go away completely. It's obviously not noticeable at all on anything other than solid black, and since my panel is perfect otherwise (no dead/hot pixel issues), I'm not willing to send it back for now. Besides, this thing is a monster and thinking about trying to ship it back and forth doesn't sound too exciting, although I'm sure NEC would pay for it if you really wanted to...

The warranty is long enough that it's worth sitting on for a while and waiting for the display to mature a bit in it's product life cycle...

What's more painful to me is that I'm living with it in 1680x1050 (old computer) as I wait for the rest of my new computer parts to show up (the monitor was first!)...I used it for a while at 2560 on my wife's computer, which I'm sorely missing now :(
 
hashbang said:
There is a user review:

http://nec3090wqxi-test.blogspot.com/

The most comprehensive I've seen on the Net so far...
Click to expand...

Albovin, VERY nice review - You obviously put a lot of time into that...

I have a bit more (sad) info for anyone who may own this display, or is considering getting one. I can't say if this problem existed from the start and I just didn't notice it due to the awe of the display itself, or if it developed or worsened over time, but I have pretty bad "striping" issues. I'll let these pictures speak for themselves (the darker one is a PS levels adjustment just to show the problem more clearly):

Original.jpg

Darker.jpg


Here is the good news! It's known by NEC, as stated here in an email with them (I asked if this was a known issue):

We have had a report of a similar issue from another customer and
are currently investigating it. We are going to be screening all LCD
panels from the vendor for this issue.

The other good news is that it's free shipping both ways, I get to keep my current display until the new one gets here, and I was assured that it would be new (not a refurb) and thoroughly "screened" prior to shipping. I'm hoping to avoid dead/hot pixels this way as well, since they will be looking at it first...

Anyway, I can understand issues like this happening, especially when I bought out of the first batch. I can't say enough good things about NEC and their support thus far. They are expecting a new batch in a few weeks, so I'll report back then...
 
I thought these were suposed to be A grade hand picked pannels. I am sorry, but for $2300.00 you should not have these kind of issues period. The new LG pannel in the NEC and Dell 30 inchers is the worst product they have ever produced.

Best of luck

Dave
 
Gah! Whats up with QC these days. This is inexcusable - at least the replacement had free shipping both ways. At least they acknowledge the existence of the problem as opposed to saying your case is unique and you probably are at fault.
 
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