NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

not that ive seen but don't most ssd come with a 3.5 to 2.5 caddy? you can always float em too!(screw in only one side)
 
Actually - I forgot about the dual stacking brackets that come standard. I can always just use a command strip to stick on another haha...
 
-H1N1- said:
How did you mount the pump and did you paint the usb ports to black?
Click to expand...

The EK SPC-60 has the same square mounting pattern as the DDC series of pumps. It's mounted sideways on the front panel using the included anti-vibration mounts.
Ncase M1 Pump Profile by CintaMagique, on Flickr

I drilled into the front panel and used three of the four mounting feet. I happened to have some spare plastic washers so I used them to help decouple the pump. My original plan was to use some nice washers on top of some o-rings.
Ncase M1 Pump Mounting by CintaMagique, on Flickr

The SSD is mounted with 3M double sided foam tape. This stuff is strong!

As for the USB ports - This is a V5 case. The ports came in black as stock.
 
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pendragon1 said:
not that ive seen but don't most ssd come with a 3.5 to 2.5 caddy? you can always float em too!(screw in only one side)
Click to expand...

I've bought 5 SSDs over the last couple years, various brands, not one came with a 2.5 to 3.5 adapter. But you can get them cheap.
 
I have been using my v5 for a while however today I had a need for my front USB only to find out that one of the ports isn't working. Has anyone else had one of their USB front ports die on their case? What was the fix (guessing re-wire it).
 
Chapeau said:
The EK SPC-60 has the same square mounting pattern as the DDC series of pumps. It's mounted sideways on the front panel using the included anti-vibration mounts.
Ncase M1 Pump Profile by CintaMagique, on Flickr

I drilled into the front panel and used three of the four mounting feet. I happened to have some spare plastic washers so I used them to help decouple the pump. My original plan was to use some nice washers on top of some o-rings.
Ncase M1 Pump Mounting by CintaMagique, on Flickr

The SSD is mounted with 3M double sided foam tape. This stuff is strong!

As for the USB ports - This is a V5 case. The ports came in black as stock.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that!

Necere, what about the black USB ports? I also have a V5 with blue USB ports, but i want those beautiful black
 
Chapeau said:
I'm all out of ideas for the WC setup. I'm still getting a fairly large differential between CPU and GPU temps. On load I'm getting in the vicinity of 75 - 80 degrees on the CPU and 55 degrees on the GPU. I'm re-mounted the CPU block more times than I care to count and made sure to bleed the system well.
Click to expand...

Chapeau, one question, do your USB ports and audio/mic ports at the front still work? Or did you have to remove them due to your RAD?
 
OC3D did a round up of air coolers, including 4 Top down blowers:

Silverstone NT06 Pro
Noctua NH-C14s
Raijintek Pallas LP
bequiet Dark Rock TF

In their ATX test setup all four performed within 1 degree C° difference. The price difference is immense though.
As somebody who just ordered the Dark rock TF for his M1 build I find this quit sobering. Do you think results might be different in smaller cases?

The Raijintek all of a sudden seems worth looking at.

Sadly noise has not been factored into this review.
 
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My Darkrock TF is super quiet, it's very impressive. Before I went water and OC, I was getting something like 27 idle, and 50s under load IIRC. And completely inaudible to my somewhat sensitive ears.
 
hshot_rooke said:
Chapeau, one question, do your USB ports and audio/mic ports at the front still work? Or did you have to remove them due to your RAD?
Click to expand...

There's just enough room with the Black Ice for the ports, but it's tight. If you put the fans under the radiator, that helps a lot. A crappy shot of mine when post bleed:

y3tNQsB.jpg


Kind of hard to see, but the USB and Audio cables come out just below the radiator, thus giving more room for radiator placement options. In my case, because of the length of the card, I needed to put the radiator as far forward as possible for the fittings to clear.
 
Roboknopp said:
OC3D did a round up of air coolers, including 4 Top down blowers:

Silverstone NT06 Pro
Noctua NH-C14s
Raijintek Pallas LP
bequiet Dark Rock TF

In their ATX test setup all four performed within 1 degree C° difference. The price difference is immense though.
As somebody who just ordered the Dark rock TF for his M1 build I find this quit sobering. Do you think results might be different in smaller cases?

The Raijintek all of a sudden seems worth looking at.

Sadly noise has not been factored into this review.
Click to expand...


I watched the 30 minute video and read a lot of the companion article. One cooler that I took note of was the Noctua NH-U9S, a frequently used air cooler on the M1. On the Performance and Testing page (3) of the review, it tied for 12th in the 4.7 GHz overclocking test, beating many larger coolers with its single 92 mm fan. A quote from the NH-U9S page (15) of the review sums up its performance nicely:

We were also pretty sure that the Noctuas would perform, and true to form the NH-U9S opened the batting well, coming in the top half of the charts, and beating many much bigger coolers, including the Pro3 on the previous page. It also topped the 92mm fan based chart, so not a bad result.
​
Now if only Noctua included a second fan like they did with the discontinued 92 mm cooler - the NH-U9B SE2. Then it might have made the top 10 on the 4.7 GHz test.


​
 
hshot_rooke said:
Chapeau, one question, do your USB ports and audio/mic ports at the front still work? Or did you have to remove them due to your RAD?
Click to expand...

Yup! They all work - but I did some pretty brutal trimming of the plastic housings for the front I/O. There are pictures back on page 528. With this trimming both the EK SE240 and Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 240 fit. The nemesis fits far better though.
 
How many of you guys have the NH-U9S oriented to blow upwards or sideways? (Mine's upwards)

Also, those of you with a slim fan on the back, do you intake or exhaust? (I exhaust)

I also have 2 3.5" HDDs so its totally jam packed. I feel like my temps always seem higher than every else's - sitting around 45-50C idle, depending on how warm the room is. and then gaming it can go up to about 70Cish. This is with a 4790k at stock/auto everything... I tried OC'ing a bit but temps went well over 75 so I backed off.
 
keshley said:
There's just enough room with the Black Ice for the ports, but it's tight. If you put the fans under the radiator, that helps a lot.
Kind of hard to see, but the USB and Audio cables come out just below the radiator, thus giving more room for radiator placement options. In my case, because of the length of the card, I needed to put the radiator as far forward as possible for the fittings to clear.
Click to expand...

Nice to see your build!
Why did you mod the predator?
On that note: How did you mount it without the side bracket?
 
bencho said:
How many of you guys have the NH-U9S oriented to blow upwards or sideways? (Mine's upwards)

Also, those of you with a slim fan on the back, do you intake or exhaust? (I exhaust)

I also have 2 3.5" HDDs so its totally jam packed. I feel like my temps always seem higher than every else's - sitting around 45-50C idle, depending on how warm the room is. and then gaming it can go up to about 70Cish. This is with a 4790k at stock/auto everything... I tried OC'ing a bit but temps went well over 75 so I backed off.
Click to expand...

I have an NH-C14 and my 4790K idles high too. When I start Prime 95's Small FFT torture test it shoots right up to the high 90s immediately and when I stop the test it drops back down just as fast. I believe the problem is the chip and not the case or the cooler. I've reset my cooler umpteen times and ran the tests with all of the covers off, but it made no difference. Some research led to Intel's Extreme Tuning Utility that can tell you if your motherboard is providing way more power than the Intel spec and some people have used that program to modify their BIOS (UEFI) power settings to obtain lower temperatures. For others, it made no difference. My motherboard's power levels seem fine compared to others I've read about, so my next plan of attack is the CPU. I will delid it and replace the thermal interface material and then see if that makes any difference.
 
bencho said:
How many of you guys have the NH-U9S oriented to blow upwards or sideways? (Mine's upwards)

Also, those of you with a slim fan on the back, do you intake or exhaust? (I exhaust)

I also have 2 3.5" HDDs so its totally jam packed. I feel like my temps always seem higher than every else's - sitting around 45-50C idle, depending on how warm the room is. and then gaming it can go up to about 70Cish. This is with a 4790k at stock/auto everything... I tried OC'ing a bit but temps went well over 75 so I backed off.
Click to expand...

edited:
My u9s actually draws air in from the rear of the case - a 92mm from the rear fan mount pulls air into the case, and the u9s 92mm fan pulls air through the heatsink. This rear intake resulted in slightly better CPU temps vs rear exhaust.

What video card do you have in your M1? Your temps sounds to be within range of mine. Longer gaming sessions temps in 65-70 range.
 
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bencho said:
How many of you guys have the NH-U9S oriented to blow upwards or sideways? (Mine's upwards)

Also, those of you with a slim fan on the back, do you intake or exhaust? (I exhaust)

I also have 2 3.5" HDDs so its totally jam packed. I feel like my temps always seem higher than every else's - sitting around 45-50C idle, depending on how warm the room is. and then gaming it can go up to about 70Cish. This is with a 4790k at stock/auto everything... I tried OC'ing a bit but temps went well over 75 so I backed off.
Click to expand...

Mine is upwards, and rear exhausts. Those are very high idles. Should be ~upper 20s low 30s. Though anything under 80c at load is okay. Do you have a second fan on the U9S?
 
Well that's interesting - I de-lidded my CPU and I have to say wow! The sad crumbly looking TIM inside was replaced with the Gelid that came with the EK block my temps dropped 10 degrees under load. 20 if you count maximum temp!

Average CPU load temperature is now more like 65-70 with the GPU at or under 60 so I'm happy. (My GPU temp is now higher because I pushed the OC a little)
It's probably still a bit early to put definitive numbers on it so please take all of the above with a grain of salt. I'm not exactly drawing up tables and plotting data points here, but general observations are good.


What a relief after all of the messing around I've been doing lately on this build!
 
Specs are in my sig ... which I have to update but -
  • 4790k
  • Impact VII
  • NH-U9S with 2 fans, blowing upwards
  • Rear Exhaust fan
  • SF600
  • EVGA 780GTX SC
  • Two 120mm blowing into the GPU
  • 1 SSD in the front
  • 2 3.5" 4TB WD Blacks
It's super cramped and I don't even think getting some custom cables will help free up airflow. That's why I had the rear set to exhaust.
Only other option I was thinking of was going to a short GPU but I'm not sure if the 1070mini will provide equivalent performance in comparison to the 780.
 
Chapeau said:
Well that's interesting - I de-lidded my CPU and I have to say wow! The sad crumbly looking TIM inside was replaced with the Gelid that came with the EK block my temps dropped 10 degrees under load. 20 if you count maximum temp!

Average CPU load temperature is now more like 65-70 with the GPU at or under 60 so I'm happy. (My GPU temp is now higher because I pushed the OC a little)
It's probably still a bit early to put definitive numbers on it so please take all of the above with a grain of salt. I'm not exactly drawing up tables and plotting data points here, but general observations are good.


What a relief after all of the messing around I've been doing lately on this build!
Click to expand...

I believe it, I was really tempted to have my 6600k de lidded by buying from Silicon Lottery. I did some research into Skylake de lidding and results I saw showed people reducing temps by 10 - 20C, so I think in your case it was a must. Really glad to see you got your temps under control.
 
Chapeau said:
Well that's interesting - I de-lidded my CPU and I have to say wow! The sad crumbly looking TIM inside was replaced with the Gelid that came with the EK block my temps dropped 10 degrees under load. 20 if you count maximum temp!

Average CPU load temperature is now more like 65-70 with the GPU at or under 60 so I'm happy. (My GPU temp is now higher because I pushed the OC a little)
It's probably still a bit early to put definitive numbers on it so please take all of the above with a grain of salt. I'm not exactly drawing up tables and plotting data points here, but general observations are good.


What a relief after all of the messing around I've been doing lately on this build!
Click to expand...

This gives me hope for my hot running 4790K, though I'm still freaked at the thought of trying to delid it.
 
Chapeau said:
Nice to see your build!
Why did you mod the predator?
On that note: How did you mount it without the side bracket?
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I'm able to run higher flow with the full strength pump at a lower volume. Basically > 1 GPM is attainable at lower volumes than the 6w pump at full speed... which is well under 1 GPM with two radiators, reservoir, and 2 blocks. Shaves another couple degrees off without increasing sound output.

Side bracket is used, just not in that photo. I took it right after I spent a couple hours bleeding the whole thing. Because the Predator is "upside down" it took a long while to get the air out, so I was moving the Predator in all kinds of directions to get the last few pockets out.
 
Hello guys,

i've just completed my build, but I really can't figure out how to organize all the wires and I still have to put the side fan.

Can you post some photos of how you put the wires in order? I just can't see how.

Thank you for your help
 

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timo1995 said:
finished my ncase m1 v5 build today, parts are

GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0)
i7-6700K
hyperx fury 16gb
2x Fractal Design venturi 120 fans
corsair SF600
evga 970 ssc
HGST travelstar 1tb 2.5
samsung 850 evo 250gb ssd 2.5
noctua NF-A9x14

everything is a tight fit, the order of installing the components is very important. my order is nf-a9, then mobo with cooler outside the case, then the psu, then the gpu and bottom fans.

the dark rock tf does fit with the gigabyte z170n, the trick is bending the cooler a little bit, even after bending the cooler the heat pipes still pushes down on the 1st ram slot a little. I think the Corsair lpx ram are a little smaller in thickness, I'm not complete sure, but one can still consider that to avoid pushing down on the ram.

the sata ports on the sides of the board are unusable even with slim profile silverstone sata cables as there is too little space between the board and the psu, you might still be able to if you force it causing the psu to nudge sideways.

I am looking to upgrade gpu to evga 1080 ftw and maybe m.2 ssd as only 2 sata ports can be accessed.

lastly the 3.5 drive bays are usable with this set up.

i will post more updates on temps once monitor comes in.
Click to expand...
Awesome looking build you got there!
One question though, do to think you could fit a 25mm thick 92mm fan on the back intake? I currently have plans on upgrading to the tf and am rather curious, cheers!
 
This dual radiator build, where one of the radiators is located in the bottom of the case, is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: 14851


Design objectives or considerations:
  • Liquid cooling
  • Pump inside the case
  • Reservoir inside the case
  • Dual radiators
  • Full length GPU
  • Minimal case modifications (Holes were drilled in the front panel of the case frame to mount the pump and reservoir.)


A fine silver box . . .

We1OtD.jpg


. . . chilled by red juice.



Top

GMx6Aj.jpg




Power supply side

pfQ3lZ.jpg




Back

zr8xS3.jpg




Front

wOacP6.jpg


The coloring of the SSD was a fortuitous coincidence. Note the screw and washer. The second screw and washer are obscured by the SSD.



Radiator side

GKVQc6.jpg




The ports on a radiator that is 60mm thick present a challenge: if the design feature option of the case, specifically--a radiator mounted to the fan bracket while maintaining the ability to detach or re-attach the fan bracket--is used, then the fittings and tubing must be of sufficient length to allow the fan bracket with radiator to detach from the case frame and lay horizontally or in some other orientation to allow access to the interior, and is not so voluminous as to prevent closure of the case. The only available space for tube routing, given the proximity of the fan to the mounting bracket nuts of the CPU block (about 7mm) and the 90 degree fittings (about 5 mm), is in and among the mounting bracket nut screw posts or immediately adjacent to the input output ports on the motherboard, or below the radiator, just above the video card. And, despite the necessarily short tube lengths, the tubing must be flexible enough to allow the case to be opened, but all the while performing without kinks.


A solution to the foregoing challenge inspired by the human elbow: The articulating u-joint.

TTvMMz.jpg




Top with radiator side open

lKdm1f.jpg




Radiator side open

pYe17g.jpg




CPU block

6htF9S.jpg





Components:

Case: M1 NCase, Version 3 (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)

Power Supply: Corsair SF600

Power Cables: Cablemod customized for Corsair SF600

Motherboard: ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K (delidded and Coollaboratory Liquid Pro applied between the IHS and CPU)

RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) SDRAM DDR4 2400

GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition

SSD: Crucial MX200 M.2 250GB

SSD: PNY CS2211 240GB

Reservoir: Koolance 60mm x 30mm

Pump: Koolance PMP-300

CPU Water Block: Koolance CPU-390I

GPU Water Block: EKWB EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (short top)

120 Radiator (side fan bracket): Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 120

240 Radiator (bottom): DarkSide 2x120 17-FPI 27mm thick, LP240

Fittings: Koolance (except for the Alphacool 90 degree female to female adapter)

Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (clear)

Coolant: Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant (UV Red)

Fan (fan bracket): Scythe Slip Stream 120 SY1225SL12M (if I recall correctly)

Fans (bottom): Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 (PWM)
 
Last edited:
Gandergray said:
This dual radiator build, where one of the radiators is located in the bottom of the case, is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: 14851



Design objectives or considerations:
  • Liquid cooling
  • Pump inside the case
  • Reservoir inside the case
  • Dual radiators
  • Full length GPU
  • Minimal case modifications (Holes were drilled in the front panel of the case frame to mount the pump and radiator.)


A fine silver box . . .

We1OtD.jpg


. . . chilled by red juice.



Top

GMx6Aj.jpg




Power supply side

pfQ3lZ.jpg




Back

zr8xS3.jpg




Front

wOacP6.jpg


The coloring of the SSD was a fortuitous coincidence. Note the screw and washer. The second screw and washer are obscured by the SSD.



Radiator side

GKVQc6.jpg




The ports on a radiator that is 60mm thick present a challenge: if the design feature option of the case, specifically--a radiator mounted to the fan bracket while maintaining the ability to detach or re-attach the fan bracket--is used, then the fittings and tubing must be of sufficient length to allow the fan bracket with radiator to detach from the case frame and lay horizontally or in some other orientation to allow access to the interior, and is not so voluminous as to prevent closure of the case. The only available space for tube routing, given the proximity of the fan to the mounting bracket nuts of the CPU block (about 7mm) and the 90 degree fittings (about 5 mm), is in and among the mounting bracket nut screw posts or immediately adjacent to the input output ports on the motherboard, or below the radiator, just above the video card. And, despite the necessarily short tube lengths, the tubing must be flexible enough to allow the case to be opened, but all the while performing without kinks.


A solution to the foregoing challenge inspired by the human elbow: The articulating u-joint.

TTvMMz.jpg




Top with radiator side open

lKdm1f.jpg




Radiator side open

pYe17g.jpg




CPU block

6htF9S.jpg





Components:

Case: M1 NCase, Version 3 (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)

Power Supply: Corsair SF600

Power cables: Cablemod customized for Corsair SF600

Motherboard: ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K (delidded and applied Coollaboratory Liquid Pro between the IHS and CPU)

RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) SDRAM DDR4 2400

GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition

SSD: Crucial MX200 M.2 250GB

SSD: PNY CS2211 240GB

Reservoir: Koolance 60mm x 30mm

Pump: Koolance PMP-300

CPU Water Block: Koolance CPU-390I

GPU Water Block: EKWB EK-FC1080 GTX - Nickel (short top)

120 Radiator (side fan bracket): Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 120

240 Radiator (bottom): DarkSide 2x120 17-FPI 27mm thick, LP240

Fittings: Koolance (except for the Alphacool G1/4 90 female to female adapter)

Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (clear)

Coolant: Koolance 702 Liquid Coolant (UV Red)

Fan (fan bracket): Scythe Slip Stream 120 SY1225SL12M (if I recall correctly)

Fans (bottom): Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 (PWM)
Click to expand...

Excellent job on the build, very well organized. Not seen a 240mm and a 120mm used together in the M1, great idea. Love how you have the hinged fittings for removing the fan bracket, ingenious.
 


Anyone planning a build with a GTX 1070/1080 and thinking of using an i5 might want to watch this video. Looks like it's time for an upgrade. :(
 
Gandergray said:
This dual radiator build, where one of the radiators is located in the bottom of the case, is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: 14851
Click to expand...

That àn impressive build.

Could you please share info about the total cost? May be create a pcpart picker ?I am Still confuse about how Much it cos to go the watercooled way.
Also could you share some temps and benchmark info?


My only recommendation will be to have the PSU to Mother board power câble not in front of the tube but on the back of it. Except that it s à flawless build that show why the M1 is so impressive.
 
So I've searched this thread but I can't really find the answer to my question...

How does the Cryorig C7 perform? I currently have the NH-C14 cooling my i5-6600k at stock speeds, and from what I understand that is considered the best air cooler to use in the M1. But the C7 (Cryorig products in general for that matter) is rarely in stock over here in the UK, however at the moment it is.

It's not exactly expensive, and for me the C7 looks better than the NH-C14. Also considering it's low profile design it should make building within the M1 that little bit easier compared to the NH-C14. However temperatures/noise are my main concern, and if it massively effects them in a negative manner then it probably wouldn't be 'worth it'.
 
Chelski Shogun said:
So I've searched this thread but I can't really find the answer to my question...

How does the Cryorig C7 perform? I currently have the NH-C14 cooling my i5-6600k at stock speeds, and from what I understand that is considered the best air cooler to use in the M1. But the C7 (Cryorig products in general for that matter) is rarely in stock over here in the UK, however at the moment it is.

It's not exactly expensive, and for me the C7 looks better than the NH-C14. Also considering it's low profile design it should make building within the M1 that little bit easier compared to the NH-C14. However temperatures/noise are my main concern, and if it massively effects them in a negative manner then it probably wouldn't be 'worth it'.
Click to expand...

Well, the C14 is the best that we know yet so I would say stick with it but you could always try a C7 and see if it works better for you. There are trade offs of course. For example the C14 can force you to forgo the hdd cage when using certain mobos. Not sure if the C7 does that or not. It could be a moot point depending on what your needs are.
 
Skott said:
Well, the C14 is the best that we know yet so I would say stick with it but you could always try a C7 and see if it works better for you. There are trade offs of course. For example the C14 can force you to forgo the hdd cage when using certain mobos. Not sure if the C7 does that or not. It could be a moot point depending on what your needs are.
Click to expand...

The Cryorig C7 is a compact HSF that is only 47mm in height & keeps itself within the 'Keep Out Zone' on the MB, so it should have zero effect on any other areas of the M1 chassis & drive mounts…

Now, the Cryorig C1 on the other hand…
 
Chelski Shogun said:
So I've searched this thread but I can't really find the answer to my question...

How does the Cryorig C7 perform? I currently have the NH-C14 cooling my i5-6600k at stock speeds, and from what I understand that is considered the best air cooler to use in the M1. But the C7 (Cryorig products in general for that matter) is rarely in stock over here in the UK, however at the moment it is.

It's not exactly expensive, and for me the C7 looks better than the NH-C14. Also considering it's low profile design it should make building within the M1 that little bit easier compared to the NH-C14. However temperatures/noise are my main concern, and if it massively effects them in a negative manner then it probably wouldn't be 'worth it'.
Click to expand...


could you tell me where you find the c7 in stock in uk?
I would greatly appreciate as I will need one for my dan a4 case.

As said before the C14 outperform the C7, and it s quite logical when comparing their formfactor.
 
timo1995 said:
I looked into it a lot of reviews and I came to the conclusion that c14 out performs the c7 by far, the c7 really should only be used when one does not overclock.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's the general opinion I've seen from reviews etc. It does well at stock speeds but once you start overclocking it can struggle. However I'm not planning to overclock, not at the moment at least, and I can always switch back to the C14 if/when I decide to overclock.

As Skott said the only way to understand which cooler is best for me is to test both and find out. But it's not that the C14 is doing a bad job, in fact it's doing quite the opposite. I just 'feel' the C7 might be a better option for me.
 
Last edited:
ranix said:
could you tell me where you find the c7 in stock in uk?
I would greatly appreciate as I will need one for my dan a4 case.

As said before the C14 outperform the C7, and it s quite logical when comparing their formfactor.
Click to expand...

Ebuyer currently have them in stock, and from past experience they are about the only shop in the UK that ever sell Cryorig products.
 
rfarmer said:
Excellent job on the build, very well organized. Not seen a 240mm and a 120mm used together in the M1, great idea. Love how you have the hinged fittings for removing the fan bracket, ingenious.
Click to expand...

Thank you. The small size of the Ncase M1 is one of its hallmark feature--but its limited interior space challenges builders to "find space".
 
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