NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

I mean, why would you need to use a C7 when you could get a M9i instead for about the same price? It takes up more space, yeah, but will cool much better than the C7.
 
ranix said:
That àn impressive build.

Could you please share info about the total cost? May be create a pcpart picker ?I am Still confuse about how Much it cos to go the watercooled way.
Also could you share some temps and benchmark info?

My only recommendation will be to have the PSU to Mother board power câble not in front of the tube but on the back of it. Except that it s à flawless build that show why the M1 is so impressive.
Click to expand...


Yes, I'll provide information about component costs--in some form or another. There is little doubt in my mind that liquid cooling increases the cost of the build. And, liquid cooling increases the weight of the computer. This build is amusingly heavy.

Yes, I'll share temperature and benchmark information after I've completed leak testing and I'm confident in the integrity of the cooling loop. I'll also need to optimize fan speeds. Preliminarily, I ran the Heaven benchmark and Prime95 simultaneously for an hour--but the attached monitor was a small spare with only 1440 x 900 resolution. I'll test later with a 1920 x 1200 resolution monitor. The results were as follows:

CPU: Maximum: 87 C . . . Average: 69 C
GPU: Maximum: 60 C . . . Average: 54 C

Thank you. (I'll try your 24-pin power cable routing suggestion.)
 
timo1995 said:
thanks, it is good looking, my old nexus5 camera dont do it justice. No, 25mm fan will not fit, not even a 20mm, you can probably fit a 15mm fan though, the noctua nf-a9x14 pwm fits and leaves you with 1 or 2 mm before touching the heatpipes with my orientation which I think is the best for this configuration.
Click to expand...
Do you think a thicker one would fit in any of the other orientations?
 
Gandergray said:
Preliminarily, I ran the Heaven benchmark and Prime95 simultaneously for an hour--but the attached monitor was a small spare with only 1440 x 900 resolution. I'll test later with a 1920 x 1200 resolution monitor. The results were as follows:

CPU: Maximum: 87 C . . . Average: 69 C
GPU: Maximum: 60 C . . . Average: 54 C
Click to expand...


More leak testing results:

I again ran the Heaven benchmark and Prime95 simultaneously for an hour at 1440 x 900 resolution. After the hour, I reset HWInfo and continued to run Heaven and Prime95 for another half hour. I refrained from using the computer during the half hour, except to monitor temperatures. Thus, the only other activity was Heaven and Prime 95. These results are more accurately indicative of the temperature averages after the computer is fully heated.

CPU: Maximum: 79 C . . . Average: 72 C
GPU: Maximum: 60 C . . . Average: 58 C

Typical RPMs of fans at top speed:
--dual 120mm x 15mm PWM fans: ~1300
--single fan bracket fan: ~1100

Ambient temperature: 22.89 C
 
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I have the C7. Goti to ff Amazon. I'm not overclocked, but I like the C7 for the size as well as the look as well as the performance. It's not the absolute best in keeping the CPU cool, but it's really really fine for the job. If you ever used a Coolermaster Hyper 212, then I say this is the equivalent in a sff case form.
 
Speed-Driven said:
I have the C7. Goti to ff Amazon. I'm not overclocked, but I like the C7 for the size as well as the look as well as the performance. It's not the absolute best in keeping the CPU cool, but it's really really fine for the job. If you ever used a Coolermaster Hyper 212, then I say this is the equivalent in a sff case form.
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Good to hear, but what's noise like with the C7? I've heard it can get rather loud in certain situations, which is understandable considering the 92mm fan.
 
Does anyone else know where I can find an IEC C14/C13 jumper cable similar to the one included with the NCase M1? Low profile and right angled on the plug end, and panel mount on the other end. The ones in the NCase site have been sold out for awhile.
 
timo1995 said:
you could have the heatpipes facing down and fit a 25mm fan in the rear but that forbids installing a gpu.
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Like this? NCase M1 Build
Doesn't look like theres any space for a thicker one unfortunately. But the gpu sure fits :p
Actually looking at it nowm a 25mm one still wouldnt fit :l
All mini itx motherboards are 170mm long and so is the card used in those screenshots. the Dark Rock tf is 140mm and on this specific motherboard it extends to the 1 pin of the pci-e connector leaving about 13mm on that side. Taking all these lengths we can see that even in this heatsink orientation the space left on the left side for an intake fan is 17mm. This leaves me sad :(. Wanted to mount a silent wings 92mm there ;P but oh well ill have to get and deal with slightly louder, puke brown noctua :D

Edit: hit post before i finished typing :l
 
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yes, I tried, but still, it's a mess. can you guys tell me, which lenght are the sleeved wires you bought online? like... not too long not too short, cause if I would have to measure them now, I would have to take apart everything again. thank you
 
timo1995 said:
there should be some space around your bottom fans for some wires and the other side of your psu, thats where I hide most of mine
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yes but it's still a mess, the original wires that come with the psu are too long. can anyone tell me how long the wires have to be if I wanna order them online like some of you guys did? cause if I wanna measure them now I would have to take everything apart again...
 
elcadete said:
yes but it's still a mess, the original wires that come with the psu are too long. can anyone tell me how long the wires have to be if I wanna order them online like some of you guys did? cause if I wanna measure them now I would have to take everything apart again...
Click to expand...

I bought 30cm for the 24 pin, 8 pin power and my 8 pin pci connection. 20 cm for my SATA power that I have in the front ODD space.
 
ranix said:
Gandergray What about the noise level of the pump and the fan? Over all systèm noise?
Your temps are quite good
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how to "objectively" describe sound. So, if you care to listen, this is a video (shot with an iPhone SE) of the fan and pump noise from the subject computer 21278. At the time, it was simultaneously running the Heaven benchmark at 1440 x 900 resolution and Prime95 for the purpose of leak testing--thus, the absence of panels. The upper radiator fan, a Scythe Slip Stream 120 SY1225SL12M, was running at about 1,100 rpms. The two fans on the bottom radiator, Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12s (PWM), were running at about 1,300. After a half hour of running (computer at maximum temperature and holding), temperatures were as follows: CPU--Max--87C--Ave--72C, GPU--Max--61C--Ave--59C. (Ambient: 24.2C)

As I note in the video description, you may have to turn up the volume and listen in a quiet place to get a better sense of the sound and the pitch or tonal quality. To contrast the sound with "nothing", listen to the final portion of the video, and then, of course, the absence of sound after the video ends.

 
Thanks à lot for the vidéo. Hard to get an idea of the actual noise but at least we can for sure say that it s noticeable.
Now that during à benchmark... so worst scénario.
How do you feel about the noise? Still acceptable or very noticeable?
You should defenetly try to have that PSU to Mother board câble go on the back of the Mother board. Not even on the back of the tube but completly on the back of the Mother board. That would make your build so much cleaner.

Thanks again for your détailled answer
 
Well I went ahead and purchased the C7 and a couple of Cryorig QF120 balance fans (just to see what they're like) in the end. More testing and swapping around components. But in all honesty I love building in this case. After I finished my initial build all I wanted to do was strip it back down and start again.
 
Hi all,

Been a while since I posted here. I admittedly swapped out of my Ncase M1 for a Thermaltake F1 for 'ease of use' for a short while and want to go back. I have a Noctua U9B SE-2 in storage to go back into the Ncase when I do a swap shortly. However, I'm really interested in something more powerful given I run everything low RPM to keep noises down, and will be upgrading to a 1070 soon from a lowly GTX 750 Ti while I get back into gaming. Currently i5 4690k at 1.15v at 4.2ghz. I live in Aus so any higher (even as we've just started spring) already starts shooting up temps.

I wanted the Noctua C-14 original but nowhere local appears to have it. There is - Be Quiet Dark Rock TF however i've read some potential issues with this fitting.. I own the Asus Z87i-Pro with daughterboard. Ideally I'd like this to fit with heatpipes facing the rear but I understand this may not work... Alternatively - Cryorig M9i or Be Quiet! Pure Rock Slim or Cryorig C1 are alternatives but I don't think they'd gain me much over the U9B SE-2 (I have owned a U9S but when I swapped cases I sold this.. eh).

Can anyone comment perhaps on what would be a solid choice? I'm fine with the dark rock if it'll fit no problems but the sheet states 'only one orientation' and not sure if it'll interfere with my motherboard.

Ideally I'd really prefer the C14, as i'd install 2 fans on the side, have no under fan, gives me room to move around a little internally etc, but it's either sold out or not listed anymore. (One places says in stock, but i went there 'no stock all gone'. still says in stock online -.-).

Thanks!

PS: Edit, the C14s is still plausible if the low profile option works? using the fan under...
 
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ranix said:
Thanks à lot for the vidéo. Hard to get an idea of the actual noise but at least we can for sure say that it s noticeable.
Now that during à benchmark... so worst scénario.
How do you feel about the noise? Still acceptable or very noticeable?
Click to expand...

As you surmise, the sound in the video from the pump and fan is as loud as it will ever be. It is the worst case scenario. In gaming usage, which is far less taxing on the computer than simultaneously running Heaven and Prime95, I expect lower temperatures and correspondingly lower fan rpms. At idle, the computer is very quiet. I'm very pleased with the sound of the computer--both the volume or loudness and pitch or tonal quality.
 
Gandergray said:
I'm not sure how to "objectively" describe sound. So, if you care to listen, this is a video (shot with an iPhone SE) of the fan and pump noise from the subject computer 21278. At the time, it was simultaneously running the Heaven benchmark at 1440 x 900 resolution and Prime95 for the purpose of leak testing--thus, the absence of panels. The upper radiator fan, a Scythe Slip Stream 120 SY1225SL12M, was running at about 1,100 rpms. The two fans on the bottom radiator, Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12s (PWM), were running at about 1,300. After a half hour of running (computer at maximum temperature and holding), temperatures were as follows: CPU--Max--87C--Ave--72C, GPU--Max--61C--Ave--59C. (Ambient: 24.2C)

As I note in the video description, you may have to turn up the volume and listen in a quiet place to get a better sense of the sound and the pitch or tonal quality. To contrast the sound with "nothing", listen to the final portion of the video, and then, of course, the absence of sound after the video ends.

Click to expand...


Run just Prime95 and let me know if the sound signature changes. Sounds a bit like coil whine to me which could be your video card.
 
Hi guys, I had a few questions about the V2.0, and what I can do to upgrade it a little bit. I totally messed up on the design of the thing a while back, leaving me with pretty bad temps that make me a little anxious (though that's my punishment for shoving a Sapphire Tri-X Fury in there...).

What I wanted to ask was, what's the ideal design for the NCase, in terms of cooling? What AiO cooler is considered the best for temperatures? What graphics card performs well, without choking out the other components in the case?

Thanks in advance.
 
timo1995 said:
i think your best bet is to get the u9s with another fan, as many reviews put it near the dark rock tf in performance.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply, I did think about that but considering I sold mine off already i was looking for perhaps a stronger top-down solution that may work better as my VRMs get very hot. If I knew the TF would fit 100% with no issues I'd likely just jump on that, as the U9S is also now hardish to find XD. And costs only 10 bucks less than the TF. Add another fan and that increases costs a lot for the U9S(can re use a u9b se2 fan though i guess?). Based on the compatibility list it SHOULD work with my Z87i-Pro given it works with the Z170 Impact, but a few mm makes all the difference ><.
 
For those of you interested in custom cables for these components:
  • MB: Gigabyte GA‑Z170N‑Gaming 5
  • PSU: Silverstone SFX-600W
  • GPU: GTX1080 Founders Edition

Here are the lengths I went with:
  • 24 Pin ATX 300 mm
  • 4+4 Pin EPS 300 mm
  • Dual Molex 150 mm + 50 mm
  • Dual SATA Power 150 mm + 50 mm
  • 8 Pin PCI-E 150 mm (I would recommend slightly longer than 150mm, so that the cable can be more easily routed under the video card to reduce pressure on the card)
 
Nanook said:
For those of you interested in custom cables for these components:
  • MB: Gigabyte GA‑Z170N‑Gaming 5
  • PSU: Silverstone SFX-600W
  • GPU: GTX1080 Founders Edition

Here are the lengths I went with:
  • 24 Pin ATX 300 mm
  • 4+4 Pin EPS 300 mm
  • Dual Molex 150 mm + 50 mm
  • Dual SATA Power 150 mm + 50 mm
  • 8 Pin PCI-E 150 mm (I would recommend slightly longer than 150mm, so that the cable can be more easily routed under the video card to reduce pressure on the card)
Click to expand...
Wonder if same as the Asus Z170I Pro Gaming w/ Corsair SF600...
 
RIRed48 said:
Wonder if same as the Asus Z170I Pro Gaming w/ Corsair SF600...
Click to expand...
Based on image search on both motherboards, the 24 pin and 4+4 pin connectors are in similar locations. It really depends on how you'd want to route your cables.
 
timo1995 said:
if dark rock tf and u9s is not a go, may I suggest the noctua c14 and the cryorig M9i

edit: never mind you already looked at those options. How are the return policy in aus like? I know most will allow returns if one does not peel off the heatsink stickers, I say use u9b se2 for now and return dark rock tf if it doesn't fit.
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That's what I'm considering. Return policy is half half XD. And it's in another state so return shipping etc might not even be worth it to return (can always re-use in my brothers computer if need be I guess) but the TF does seem like the better option currently.. I'll see how I go. Might try the U9B and check temps after the new graphics card first and go from there. :). Ta!
 
Does anyone have pics of this case with mixed color panels? I remember seeing them posted a while ago, but can't seem to find them.
 
itschop said:
Does anyone have pics of this case with mixed color panels? I remember seeing them posted a while ago, but can't seem to find them.
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you mean like this?

image.png
 
ReaperX22 said:
Hi all,

Been a while since I posted here. I admittedly swapped out of my Ncase M1 for a Thermaltake F1 for 'ease of use' for a short while and want to go back. I have a Noctua U9B SE-2 in storage to go back into the Ncase when I do a swap shortly. However, I'm really interested in something more powerful given I run everything low RPM to keep noises down, and will be upgrading to a 1070 soon from a lowly GTX 750 Ti while I get back into gaming. Currently i5 4690k at 1.15v at 4.2ghz. I live in Aus so any higher (even as we've just started spring) already starts shooting up temps.

I wanted the Noctua C-14 original but nowhere local appears to have it. There is - Be Quiet Dark Rock TF however i've read some potential issues with this fitting.. I own the Asus Z87i-Pro with daughterboard. Ideally I'd like this to fit with heatpipes facing the rear but I understand this may not work... Alternatively - Cryorig M9i or Be Quiet! Pure Rock Slim or Cryorig C1 are alternatives but I don't think they'd gain me much over the U9B SE-2 (I have owned a U9S but when I swapped cases I sold this.. eh).

Can anyone comment perhaps on what would be a solid choice? I'm fine with the dark rock if it'll fit no problems but the sheet states 'only one orientation' and not sure if it'll interfere with my motherboard.

Ideally I'd really prefer the C14, as i'd install 2 fans on the side, have no under fan, gives me room to move around a little internally etc, but it's either sold out or not listed anymore. (One places says in stock, but i went there 'no stock all gone'. still says in stock online -.-).

Thanks!

PS: Edit, the C14s is still plausible if the low profile option works? using the fan under...
Click to expand...

A quick Google search shows NE having three Noctua C-14 still in stock. $99 though but if you want best hsf cooling I would say it's worth it. If that's too rich for you just get a U9S.
 
Skott said:
A quick Google search shows NE having three Noctua C-14 still in stock. $99 though but if you want best hsf cooling I would say it's worth it. If that's too rich for you just get a U9S.
Click to expand...
Located in Aus :(. The AUS version of NE does not have stock sadly.
 
ReaperX22 said:
Located in Aus :(. The AUS version of NE does not have stock sadly.
Click to expand...

Oh, sorry about that. Can you get your hands on a U9S? That's probably the closest you'll get to max cooling (using air) after the C14. People have used AIO units but the tubes can be tricky to coil without kinking but some have had success with them. Because this is such a small case I would say stick with air hsf units. We know they work and they are less troublesome to install. Just my own opinion of course.
 
Skott said:
Oh, sorry about that. Can you get your hands on a U9S? That's probably the closest you'll get to max cooling (using air) after the C14. People have used AIO units but the tubes can be tricky to coil without kinking but some have had success with them. Because this is such a small case I would say stick with air hsf units. We know they work and they are less troublesome to install. Just my own opinion of course.
Click to expand...

I'm sure I could source one if needed, was just hoping for a top-down haha. Yeah I tried both a H60 previously and didn't help much and the tubes are unforgiving. Then i got a 240MM rad but the pump was loud. Air is definitely the way to go given I care a lot about acoustics.. I'll see how I go with the U9B-SE2 again. I also found a post on here of the Dark Rock TF fitting with the Z77i deluxe, but either 'kissing' the first ram stick or hitting the GPU by a mm or two. The board has a very similar layout to mine so I imagine it'd be similar. Damn Noctua.. Why'd they change the height of the C14S lol. (i know for RAM compatibility but still!).

EDIT: Hmm what about the Silverstone NT06-Pro ?? looks reasonable. Cheaper. In stock multiple places.. Can put one of my Gentle Typhoons on the top at 1150rpm. Further edit, seems to perform similar if not a touch worse than the U9B, and i just realised it may be too close to the board.. my USB 3.0 connector is in a lovely awkward spot so it'll likely block that (the reason I've shyed away from the Cryorig C1). C14 was tall enough that it avoids this issue. Lame. (EXTRA EDIT This Post suggests it'll clear my USB 3.0 header.. hmmmm.)
 
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I would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.

So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard

Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).

I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.

Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.

The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.

With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.






ruTH80O
 
Roboknopp said:
I would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.

So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard

Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).

I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.

Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.

The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.

With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.






ruTH80O
Click to expand...
Tkaing off the plastic makes me so nervous about shorting out the video card
 
Roboknopp said:
I would like to post an update fpr people considering the bequite dark rock TF as a cpu cooler for their M1 build.
The compatibilty spread sheet says, it will not fit because of interference with ram and PCIe slot with most motherboards except the Gigabyte z170n gaming 5, which is really hard to get at the moment.

So I tried my luck with the asus z170i, all prepared for having to use a riser for the graphics card and this is the result: Ncase M1 bequite Dark Rock TF on Asus Z170i pro gaming (mini-itx) motherboard

Interference with ram can be confirmed but is easily remedied (if you are willing to "damage" a cooler with that kind of price tag).

I took off the the bottom "teeth" of the bottom heat sink, so that it would not push on to the ram stick. First I clipped them off with a side cutter and filed them down to get them more even and take away the sharp edges.

Temps so far are good. The i5 6600k @4,5 turbo sits at 34°C at idle and around 60 at full load.

The main surprise was though, that I could fit the gfx card without the riser. Even with the aluminium caps at the end of the headpipes the card would fit. One just touched one screw without applying any downward pressure to the card.

With the caps off, you get even a little more space, so a backplated card might fit in as well. I was not able to test that though.






ruTH80O
Click to expand...
Ooooh someone who has the tf in exact position that i want to have it with a motherboard that has all of the major components in the same position as mine. Tell me son, how much room is there between the heatsink and the back intake? Can one fit a fan that is thicker than 15mm? I hope that my calculations were incorrect or that the pictures that i made them using were made from a perspective that could mislead me. Thanks :D


Nanook said:
Those black caps are metal too? That's even more risky
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They might be metal, but they're most likely aluminum so there should be no chance of shorting out, since aluminum is non-conductive. If you take the black caps off however, the heatpipes are most likely copper, which as we all know is a highly conductive metal, both in terms of heat and power, this however does not mean that even if it were to be touching any of the exposed contact points on the back of the card, like for example a simple smd cap that it would short it out.
Edit: Anodized aluminum, damnit.
 
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All metal is electrically conductive, though anodized aluminum is not. Perhaps this is what you were referring to. If removing the caps allows a non-conductive backplate to added to the graphics card, then that is what I'd do.
 
Qrash said:
All metal is electrically conductive, though anodized aluminum is not. Perhaps this is what you were referring to. If removing the caps allows a non-conductive backplate to added to the graphics card, then that is what I'd do.
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Was indeed referring to anodized aluminum since the top and the caps do look like they're anodized. That being said though i just took a look at the spec sheet for the cooler and it's just simply brushed aluminum so my whole point is invalid.
 
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