Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic modifications.

Card is installed, just waiting on the riser still, I did use 3 small washers per bolt to act as spacers for the card. I looked at the card in the drive cage for a bit and decided I'd rather not cut holes in the drive cage cover. I ordered (5) 3.5mm 90 extensions so I should be able to run them out the bottom of the case through an existing hole and through the "foot" at the back.

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These are what I picked up, I think they will stick out the least from the card, what I have pictured above is just a little to tall, the door did close but not without some stress on the connectors.
 

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Card is installed, just waiting on the riser still, I did use 3 small washers per bolt to act as spacers for the card. I looked at the card in the drive cage for a bit and decided I'd rather not cut holes in the drive cage cover. I ordered (5) 3.5mm 90 extensions so I should be able to run them out the bottom of the case through an existing hole and through the "foot" at the back.

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These are what I picked up, I think they will stick out the least from the card, what I have pictured above is just a little to tall, the door did close but not without some stress on the connectors.

Looks fine to me!
 
Glad you found a way to make it work. However.......

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My OCD is seriously disturbed by what I've seen here. If I can't make something look clean or like it came factory, I don't do it.
 
The blue wire running to the front looks like the mic wire, and it would be running back to front regardless.
 
Glad you found a way to make it work. However.......

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My OCD is seriously disturbed by what I've seen here. If I can't make something look clean or like it came factory, I don't do it.
Lol, I think it will look pretty clean, you won't be seeing anything different and the only thing that was modified was the drive cage. Unless you have xray vision and can see the screw holes and where I scuffed the paint a little around where the riser cable will go it'll look stock. The case "foot" as well I guess, it's a cut out, at the back of the case.
The blue wire running to the front looks like the mic wire, and it would be running back to front regardless.
I was using that cable so I could get a measurement after routing, they'll all be what I linked above eventually.
 
Sound card is working great in the hdd cage. Everything seems to be working perfectly with no perceived issues. Being able to easily switch from headphones to speakers with just a few mouse clicks each with it's own volume level is super nice. I think this'll conclude my "mods" to this case for a bit, thanks again to all for the input.
 
I'm just glad there is still some life to the sound card mafia! I am on my Titanium HD and don't want to quit!
 
I'm using 2 mechanical 8TB drives in the bay where OP is putting the sound card but I don't like having drives in a case without a fan on them so I'm 3D Printing a backplate which accepts a 70mm Nidec slim fan.

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I think my next mod is to drill out the rivets holding the front right aluminum panel to the case so I can paint it black
 
I'm using 2 mechanical 8TB drives in the bay where OP is putting the sound card but I don't like having drives in a case without a fan on them so I'm 3D Printing a backplate which accepts a 70mm Nidec slim fan.

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I think my next mod is to drill out the rivets holding the front right aluminum panel to the case so I can paint it black

Awesome! Post some pics along the way and when you get it done.
 
Well...from the F me in the ass department the Gigabyte WaterForce RTX2080 Super is 4mm too tall to fit in the case, lol! Now the weather with Skip Taylor



EDITED TO ADD: Time to YOLO dat BITCH and take a belt sander to the vidya card to make it fit. WTF it's only $839, lol!
 
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After measuring the video card clearance it (the video card) can't be modded to allow the case panel (glass) to close.

so if I can't mod the card to fit the case I'ma have to mod the case to fit the card...

I ordered a PCIe Gen 4 riser and I'm gonna design and 3D Print a vertical mount for the card.

I did a little mock-up to see the clearances and there's just enough to make it happen. The pic shows where I'll mount it and I'm propping it up with the reservoir to see how it fits. There's just enough room behind it to run the tubing so I'm back on track, but won't get the parts to start the mod until Saturday (my prime day)

Here's a pic of the mock-up and of the fan mount on the back of the drive bay area of the case.
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Here's the design of the cover with the fan pocket for the Nidec 70mm fan
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After measuring the video card clearance it (the video card) can't be modded to allow the case panel (glass) to close.

so if I can't mod the card to fit the case I'ma have to mod the case to fit the card...

I ordered a PCIe Gen 4 riser and I'm gonna design and 3D Print a vertical mount for the card.

I did a little mock-up to see the clearances and there's just enough to make it happen. The pic shows where I'll mount it and I'm propping it up with the reservoir to see how it fits. There's just enough room behind it to run the tubing so I'm back on track, but won't get the parts to start the mod until Saturday (my prime day)

Here's a pic of the mock-up and of the fan mount on the back of the drive bay area of the case.
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Here's the design of the cover with the fan pocket for the Nidec 70mm fan
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Very nice work on the fan.

Only down side with putting the CPU up that high is that you can't see the CPU block or the RAM at all (which a lot of folks like to look at). You DO get access to the PCIe slots, though, so expansion won't be a PITA.
 
Very nice work on the fan.

Only down side with putting the CPU up that high is that you can't see the CPU block or the RAM at all (which a lot of folks like to look at). You DO get access to the PCIe slots, though, so expansion won't be a PITA.

I've had a breakthrough on the design front which will allow me to mount the video card half an inch above the M.2 expander card on a "floating" mount.

The exhaust of the water loop basically should line up exactly with the intake on the CPU Block. You can then see the waterblock pretty easily.
 
I actually picked up one of these for a friend's build. We'll see how it goes.
 
In order to mock up the floating install I 3D Printed some stuff to assist me in locating the holes.

The part on the left is for the mounting tang one would normally put the 2 screws in when securing the card. This is going outside the case and uses a single M5 allen head.

The part in the center is to be located on the inside of the case and secures the 2 mounting tangs to the inside back of the case and it too uses an M5 allen head.

The part on the right is a kick-stand (for lack of a better term) to support the weight of the vidya card. It secures to the bottom of the case and just cradles the card to take the weight off the other two parts. When I was designing it I decided to go with the slotted theme and it turned out better than I thought. Who knows...depending on how well it works out I may just use it instead...

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I don't know. It's a full water cooling build. GPU and GPU. Dual radiators, etc.

I'm doing the same thing with two 360mm rads and an EATX mobo and it's not really a problem unless you buy a watercooled video card that doesn't fit like I did, lol.

If you're going to install dual 360's in the top and side, you may want to do a couple things to make the install easier...

1 -- I pulled the front panel connections off and flipped the direction of the Type-A USB 3.0 connections so the cables didn't interfere with the radiator, (which I installed on the back-side of the side radiator location.)

2 -- Install the side radiator first if you're installing it the way I did so the top radiator fans don't interfere with mounting the fans on the side.

OPTIONAL -- If you look at the pic above where I have the video card in vertical orientation you can see the panel that separates the front of the case from the back... If the radiator you decide to use is like the one in the Pacifica kit the ports may be low enough that you need to grind ~2mm off the bottom of that panel so you have room to connect the lines. (again...it's completely dependent on the radiator you choose)

And if you do buy a card too tall to fit the fix is easy enough... I'm still in the mock-up phase but the side panel is on now and there's an inch between the card and the side glass, and the card is probably 4 or 5 inches above the RAM so it doesn't block the CPU area or impact airflow.

Excuse the kick-stand...it's there for the mock-up and is holding the card up all by itself while I mark the spots to cut for my mod.


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Ordered a Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic from Amazon and UPS beat it so bad that I refuse to open what's left of the box. Now I have to wait for them to ship me another.
 
So I just ordered a bunch more water cooling parts because I think I might just try to shoehorn in another Radiator and pump to run a second loop just for the video card. (and use the two 360mm radiators for the CPU only)
 
I have had the worst luck with Amazon this week. I placed 4 orders, 2 on Monday, 1 on Wednesday, all scheduled for Saturday delivery. I then placed a rush order yesterday.

ONLY the rush order is due to arrive at all...tomorrow...None of the rest were actually processed for fulfillment. I was charged for all of them, though.

I just spent 2.5hrs on the phone finding out what was up. They aren't sure...they'll, "get back with me".

In the mean time, since I'm adding a third Radiator (if it ever arrives) I need to find a place to mount the second pump so I designed the following mount.

The perspective is "off" on the pic, in that you're seeing the parts from inside the case looking out the front.

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I received an email last night at around 7pm from the Amazon Fulfillment Center in Fort Worth stating my 3 orders would be arriving today.

I was like, "Yeah...right. Can you throw in the Brooklyn Bridge, too?"

They put my 3orders in a van. And drove them here. From Forth Worth. Overnight.

Amazon showed up at 0800. The delivery van had Texas plates. I checked.

damn...
 
So the 240mm rad/fan combo interferes with the M.2 Expansion Card on my MSI Prestige Creation X570 board.

I can get around it by removing the rear-most fan on the 240mm Rad
-or-
I can mount the fan under the radiator on the bottom of the case
-or-
I can cut a hole in the bottom of the case, 3D print a tray which holds the Rad/Fans lower so there's no interference.


I chose option 3 and, since I'm already cutting the case I went ahead and purchased a TT 360mm x 64mm Rad.

If I can stuff it in the side area to use with the CPU, I'll move one of the smaller 360mm rads to use for the Vidcard. if I can't, the vidcard will just have a honkin' big radiator.
 
So the 240mm rad/fan combo interferes with the M.2 Expansion Card on my MSI Prestige Creation X570 board.

I can get around it by removing the rear-most fan on the 240mm Rad
-or-
I can mount the fan under the radiator on the bottom of the case
-or-
I can cut a hole in the bottom of the case, 3D print a tray which holds the Rad/Fans lower so there's no interference.


I chose option 3 and, since I'm already cutting the case I went ahead and purchased a TT 360mm x 64mm Rad.

If I can stuff it in the side area to use with the CPU, I'll move one of the smaller 360mm rads to use for the Vidcard. if I can't, the vidcard will just have a honkin' big radiator.
Make sure to throw up some pics!
 
I built my Lian Li Dynamic last night. Only problem was the Dynamic USB 3 header interfered with my MSI Unify board header when a fan was installed on the bottom. Had to order a flexible extension cable.
 
Notarat, you are really reminding me why I really want a 3D printer come tax time...
 
Notarat, you are really reminding me why I really want a 3D printer come tax time...

You should definitely get one. I like using mine to do mock-ups for stuff I want to do in other material and sometimes I just use the printed stuff because it ends up being good enough.

That said, my 3D printed pump tray/mount for the front of the case was revised...The part containing the pump is still going to be 3D printed, but the framework is not. I'm using 19mmx19mm square aluminum tubing for it with 3D printed "biscuits" to hold the frame together. Here's the frame installed without the biscuits to see how it would look. The GPU pump tray will bolt to the aluminum framing with M8 allen heads

Looking out the front from inside the case
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Looking in the front at the crossbar. When the front glass is installed, you can only see the crossmember which matches the aluminum on the case itself
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I completed the return line from the side radiator (not the top rad) to the CPU pump/res combo.Loop progression is Pump to CPU, CPU to top Rad, Top Rad to Side Rad, Side Rad back to res/pump combo
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Here's the return line without the top rad in the way. No grommets were harmed during production of this picture

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Below's the view from close up. There's a total of 0.2mm clearance between the Top rad and the elbow. There's 0.1mm clearance between the tube and motherboard tray, lol. A single post-it falls out if you jam it between the tube and mobo tray. If you fold it in half and jam it between the tube and tray, it stays in place...

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I also managed to create the top radiator to side radiator transfer line. However, in order to do the mock up for that I had to uninstall the return line because the fitting which arrived yesterday were all 3/8" not the 5/8" I ordered...

I have to RMA the fittings I received yesterday and order replacement 5/8" fittings (again, and hope they send me the proper ones this time)

Once the CPU loop is completed, I can install the PCIe riser card with the 3D printed mount and cut the hole for the video card and start with the mockups for that loop...

This build is going to take a little time to complete...
 
Biscuits. They're great with Ham, Bacon (also ham but deserving of its own moniker) eggs, and Aluminum Tubing!

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I'd do it now but I'm a good tenant and don't make noise after 7pm.

Edited to add: I'm also using biscuits to secure the frame to the Case. If you look at the pictures above you can see where the crossmember is shown. To the right, and below, you can see a counter-sunk rivet which holds the aluminum part of the case to the case...I'm going to drill that out and use a beveled screw to secure that side of the frame to the case using a captive biscuit inside the tubing as the "nut"

There's also a counter-sunk hole on the left front support brace near the bottom. I'm using a beveled screw to do the same thing on that side. Given the weights involved, one screw per frame will suffice
 
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Choice Time. Gimme opinions on which Pump/Res mount you think is better...I can't decide. I think the bottom (my original design) is sturdier, but there really isn't that much needed to hold the res/pump in place...so I designed the top version this evening.
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Pics are potato-quality but that's the best my phone is capable of.

Front (GPU) Pump/Res combo installed with fill tube to check clearances between the fill tube and side fans as well as with the crossmember
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Here's a side-view. I got a little too aggressive on the miter with the file, but with the side and front glass on, you can't see this unless you put your nose on the glass and look for it.

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Here's a pic of the rear (CPU) pump/res combo on the tray I made for it. Hack Saw + Aluminum USB Enclosure FTW.

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This is another of those TT (as in, "That's TIGHT!") instances I seem to encounter with this build. The 360mm XPSC radiator + fans + Grills are clear...but only by roughly .25" withe the grilles installed. Still though...I can turn the fan on the M.2 expander card OFF since it's being cooled by a 120mm fan now. I have the card installed sans motherboard to check clearance and it's level fromt to back as it would be when installed in the motherboard. (Again...these are just checks for clearance) Assembly is going to be almost as fun as a getting a colonoscopy from a car mechanic

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That's a tight fit, but it clears. I bet my M.2 nvme drives run cool, lol

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I'm expecting ten 90° fittings and two T-fittings Friday. Still need to procure the CPU but, once that's done I can complete the CPU loop and finalize the GPU mounting location then cut the required holes. I've already printed the mounts and the spacer for the Riser Cable (prevents it from contacting the backside of the M.2 Expander Card)
 

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Pics are potato-quality but that's the best my phone is capable of.

Front (GPU) Pump/Res combo installed with fill tube to check clearances between the fill tube and side fans as well as with the crossmember
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Here's a side-view. I got a little too aggressive on the miter with the file, but with the side and front glass on, you can't see this unless you put your nose on the glass and look for it.

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Here's a pic of the rear (CPU) pump/res combo on the tray I made for it. Hack Saw + Aluminum USB Enclosure FTW.

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This is another of those TT (as in, "That's TIGHT!") instances I seem to encounter with this build. The 360mm XPSC radiator + fans + Grills are clear...but only by roughly .25" withe the grilles installed. Still though...I can turn the fan on the M.2 expander card OFF since it's being cooled by a 120mm fan now. I have the card installed sans motherboard to check clearance and it's level fromt to back as it would be when installed in the motherboard. (Again...these are just checks for clearance) Assembly is going to be almost as fun as a getting a colonoscopy from a car mechanic

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That's a tight fit, but it clears. I bet my M.2 nvme drives run cool, lol

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I'm expecting ten 90° fittings and two T-fittings Friday. Still need to procure the CPU but, once that's done I can complete the CPU loop and finalize the GPU mounting location then cut the required holes. I've already printed the mounts and the spacer for the Riser Cable (prevents it from contacting the backside of the M.2 Expander Card)
I love it man, keep up the great work!
 
So...in keeping with my goal of using as little plastic in the build as possible I made more plastic parts, lol.

Same pump/res mount, but with squared mount to the cross member versus the earlier "squashed octogon". This negates the need for additional support material. I then split the model into 2 parts for those wanting to use dual extrusion to print the part in multi-colors/materials. I used yellow/light blue so its easier to see the details. The thingiverse project has already been updated with this design as additional files.

I can't say how it prints or works yet because I haven't printed it yet. (45% completed) I broke out my FF Creator Pro and doused it with 409 cleaner and wiped 2years of dust off it, put in new filament (PLA), and am in the process of YOLO-ing this bitch with no changes to settings from 2 years ago, lol.

In my case, I needed black and dark gray filament and all I had was a medium/light gray so I'll probably re-print again unless the FF burns down my house after igniting 2yrs of dust underneath it

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I have the MSI Prestige Creation eATX board in my build and it uses a black/gray/littlebittawhitethrownin combo so here's the pump mount in dual-color.

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It's been 3-4 years since I used dual extrusion so I forgot a lotta the tips and tricks to making them "cleaner". The print pic above shows my use of Primer Towers, Ooze Shield, and Sacrifical Towers but I goofed on the sacrificial towers and it led to some smearing. I can clean it up...but I'd rather the print came out clean to begin with since sanding PLA results in the chest hair effect. I'll replace the gray-only mount with this one this weekend. If I can replicate the exact location of the rear pump using mounts like this I will replace the aluminum "tray" with one of these so the mounts match...
 
I'm not done with it yet, but I'm building a machine in this case for a friend and its an absolute joy to work with.
 
I'm not done with it yet, but I'm building a machine in this case for a friend and its an absolute joy to work with.

Even with the issues I've encountered (99% my fault) I'm pleased as punch with the case. It's not much taller/deeper than the standard NMCI computer I use at work and it can hold way more than I thought...
 
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