Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic modifications.

daphatgrant

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Even with the issues I've encountered (99% my fault) I'm pleased as punch with the case. It's not much taller/deeper than the standard NMCI computer I use at work and it can hold way more than I thought...
I agree, appearance is great in my opinion, cooling is great and access to parts during install made the build almost simple (rgb wiring complicates everything).
 

mvmiller12

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My time with it was very pleasant. I particularly like how easy it is to clean the filters - and how they provided enough mesh to deal with all the fan intakes.

I am tentatively planning on doing my next build in a Phanteks Enthoo 719 (formerly named Luxe 2) - it looks like you get a shit-ton of case for that $189.

I can also say I had a good time working with the CoolerMaster Cosmo C700P which is what my main system is built with, but that case was over $300. An entirely different category, to be sure....
 

notarat

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This bugs me. It bugs me a lot, to be honest. It fits. But it really hampers the airflow of that rear fan...

255585_IMAG0657.jpg



Problem is, I need that card, -and- I need that fan, so I started thinking...which can be dangerous after being awake 36hrs

I'm gonna throw this out and I'd like some feedback to see if I'm completely off base

Use the phantek universal kit like everyone else does (grr...) but still use the spot I'd reserved for vertically-mounting my video card to mount the M.2 Expander card vertically as well...It seems there would be more than enough room to do this and it technically solves my problem with airflow, which is already hampered by using a completely negative pressure setup

Sure...I wouldn't don't get a pretty, unobstructed view of the video card but I'd get the use of both cards -and- the fan is nowhere near as obstructed. Thoughts?
 

notarat

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Put the card in the drive bay, like Daphatgrant did with his sound card.
No thanks. Not giving up 16TB of storage for 2TB of faster storage (if it's even faster since the Riser Card is PCIe Gen3 x1 slot not PCIe Gen4 x16 slot)

Worse comes to worse, I can use the universal mount to mount the m.2 expander card in the top x16 slot and use the 2nd x16 slot for the video card where I'd originally planned to mount it vertically.
 

notarat

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Waiting on the Phanteks Mount to arrive. Gonna mod it to add a second slot, via a 3D Printed addition, then see if the m.2 card fits behind the video card using the PCIe Gen4 Riser I bought for way too much, lol.

For those with 3D printers, I'll make the additional slot available on thingiverse on my O11 Dynamic mods project page.

One thing I discovered this weekend...Silky Silver filament is very frikken awesome. Looks like metal when printed (think polished aluminum) so parts made with it blend nicely with the theme of the case. Going to print a 3rd pump mount today using hatchbox white and silky silver and will post pics of it.
 

notarat

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Here's the difference between "Gray & Black" (matching the mobo color scheme) and "Silky Silver & White"(Matching the case color scheme)

I'm really liking the silky silver

IMAG0693.jpg
 

notarat

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Received the Phanteks universal GPU mount. It's actually worse than the current solution. With the adapter installed I lose the ability to use 2 of the 3 fans on the bottom radiator.

Can't use it at all...and can't even mod it.

So...it's looking like I'm going to have to use Riser cables for BOTH the video card and M.2 Expander card. Kinda a "Rizen Ryzen" setup, if you will...

That said, I took apart the M.2 Expander card and removed the slot bracket from it and got my measurements and designed a replacement which doesn't have the 90° tang on it (where the screw would secure it to the case)

If I move the CPU pump to the front of the case next to the other one, I can mount the M.2 card to the back of the case near where the CPU pump is currently mounted.

That got me to thinking (re-thinking) the front GPU water pump location/mount and I'll now be working on a new mounting system which secures both pumps...

Oh...there are also motorized helical gears in the works for the reservoirs...waiting on the epoxy to cure so I can see if that works out
 

notarat

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Small Update:

M.2 Expander card installed in the space above the Video Card. Had to remove the slot cover mount from the card and 3D Print a replacement which has no 90° bend so it can be mounted directly to the slots on the back of the case.
IMAG0699.jpg

Here's the single pump mount compared to the re-designed dualk pump mount. The new mount is done in ABS and is less than half the size of the original mount

IMAG0703.jpg



It works fine so far and I've slapped around the reservoirs/pumps to see if the mount would fail but it's fine. The new version's mounting method is a bit different...more on that later
 

daphatgrant

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Small Update:

M.2 Expander card installed in the space above the Video Card. Had to remove the slot cover mount from the card and 3D Print a replacement which has no 90° bend so it can be mounted directly to the slots on the back of the case.
View attachment 205476
Here's the single pump mount compared to the re-designed dualk pump mount. The new mount is done in ABS and is less than half the size of the original mount

View attachment 205477


It works fine so far and I've slapped around the reservoirs/pumps to see if the mount would fail but it's fine. The new version's mounting method is a bit different...more on that later
Damn! your mods make mine seem as advanced as installing a replacement fan, great work!
 

notarat

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Damn! your mods make mine seem as advanced as installing a replacement fan, great work!
Thanks for the compliment. It's gonna be a long build since I have to stop working on it tomorrow for at least 3 weeks (ironically enough...that's the day the 3850X arrives)
 

thaaskii

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daphatgrant

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Hey sorry if I dig up this post.
Not a problem! I used a 40CM cable, this one from ebay. The cable is in the bottom pci slot on the board, passes to the back of the case through the lowest pass through at the back of the case. It curves up and goes between the PSU and the motherboard mount and then curves back over the PSU and up to the sound card.
 

thaaskii

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Not a problem! I used a 40CM cable, this one from ebay. The cable is in the bottom pci slot on the board, passes to the back of the case through the lowest pass through at the back of the case. It curves up and goes between the PSU and the motherboard mount and then curves back over the PSU and up to the sound card.
Thanks! :) I ordered it, sucks that it takes 3-4 weeks to ship to germany, but I'm really looking forward to use use my soundcard even with the vertical gpu.
Let's see how it goes, when the riser cable arrives. :)
 

elite.mafia

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Hi All, is it possible to remove feet from the case?
If you mean the legs at the front and the back, not without extensive modifications. The legs of the case have slots for both glass panels and the back metal panel. They are also riveted in place. It would require a lot of work to do it right. Why would you want to remove the legs anyways? It's setup like this so you get solid intake airflow from under the chassis
 

daphatgrant

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Hi All, is it possible to remove feet from the case?
Absolutely, not sure why you'd want to but there are 2 screws per foot section in the front and 2 in the back. Your case would be sitting flat on whatever surface you'd have it on and eliminate any airflow from underneath of course. There are some rivets and whatnot on the bottom so you'd probably want to have something there even 1/8" just to keep the rivets from rubbing the surface you put the case on.
If you mean the legs at the front and the back, not without extensive modifications. The legs of the case have slots for both glass panels and the back metal panel. They are also riveted in place. It would require a lot of work to do it right.
Huh? I took the back foot off when I cut the slot for the audio cables. It's just a long foot for the front and another for the rear, 2 cross-tip screws each. Is yours different?
 

elite.mafia

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Absolutely, not sure why you'd want to but there are 2 screws per foot section in the front and 2 in the back. Your case would be sitting flat on whatever surface you'd have it on and eliminate any airflow from underneath of course. There are some rivets and whatnot on the bottom so you'd probably want to have something there even 1/8" just to keep the rivets from rubbing the surface you put the case on.

Huh? I took the back foot off when I cut the slot for the audio cables. It's just a long foot for the front and another for the rear, 2 cross-tip screws each. Is yours different?
Where are the screws? I looked and only saw rivets. Maybe I am looking at the wrong place.
 

daphatgrant

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Where are the screws? I looked and only saw rivets. Maybe I am looking at the wrong place.
Ha, one there and another on the other side. That's the right side of the case if looking at the power button.

20200412_201256.jpg


I need to give it a clean apparently!
 

daphatgrant

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Hi All, is it possible to remove feet from the case?
Hey, I was wrong, while the feet do come off easily that will fundamentally alter how the side panels stay in place.
If you mean the legs at the front and the back, not without extensive modifications. The legs of the case have slots for both glass panels and the back metal panel. They are also riveted in place. It would require a lot of work to do it right. Why would you want to remove the legs anyways? It's setup like this so you get solid intake airflow from under the chassis
I stand corrected, I took my case out for some spring cleaning and took a closer look. You are 100% correct that the panels are held in place at the bottom by metal tabs that slide into the feet.

Here's a pic of the 3 screws that hold the feet to the case, it's 3 screws not 2.
LianLio11DFeet1.jpg



And here's a pic of the tabs on the bottom of the side panels that slide into the slots on the feet. This is a pic of the front panel and the front foot
LianLio11DFeet2.jpg



I'm not saying that you can't overcome this but you'll have to find a way to secure the bottom of the side panels to the frame of the case.
 

Cisco76

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Thanks a lot for the clear explanation. I was planning to buy this case but I have an issue with its height, it is not fitting my desk for 1cm. Unfortunately I need to look into something else.
 

Crazydaisy

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I'm finishing a new build and have run into a few snags.

The 1st being that the HDD that I'm trying to install behind the back panel on the vertical brace/case support/wiring hider doesn't fit. It probably has to do with the PSU that I chose but I wanted to pass this along to others. I'm using a 1,000watt psu so it's a little longer than normal and when installing the hdd the sata power plug bumps into the psu and prevents the mount form being attached to the case. I tried every orientation that the predrilled holes allowed with no success. I think I'm going to have to mount the HDD to the top of the case (drilling required). I removed the HDD cage that comes installed as I needed the space for all of the Corsair fan and rgb controllers and room for PSU cables and extensions. Resolved - I ended up being able to install the drive in the drive cage after all so this initial problem was negated.

The 2nd issue that I encountered is that I can barely get the glass side panel closed as it's pushing against the power cables for the graphics card. I am using an evga 1080Ti FTW3 so it is somewhat of a taller card. I think I could leave it this way but I don't like the idea of it putting stress on the connectors. I ordered the evga powerlink to see if that will resolve the issue by moving the plug location to the side of the card, hopefully it's not too tall with the powerlink attached. - Resolved (post #18) - Powerlink with the card was too tall, ended up going vertical mount.

The 3rd item that needs addressing is I'd like to install a sound card but don't have room due to the vertical gpu mount so I'm looking at other mounting possibilities. - Resolved (post#46) - Installed the sound card in the HDD cage.

That's all but I figured I'd share a few experiences for anyone looking to build with this case. I love the looks and build quality of it and I'm quite sure I can remedy the problems I've encountered but I wanted to pass them along.
Could you please explain to me how you installed your power supply in the case.
I'm starting to wonder if I got a counterfeit case because the top doesn't come off.
I have a 1000 W E VGA power supply and I can't get it in for nothing
 

daphatgrant

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Could you please explain to me how you installed your power supply in the case.
I'll do what I can but I had no issues at all installing mine :confused:

Here are a couple pics of mine and a youtube vid showing exactly how I installed my psu.
20190916_105015.jpg
20190924_104423.jpg

I'm starting to wonder if I got a counterfeit case because the top doesn't come off.
This part I don't get, are you talking about the top panel of the case?
 

Crazydaisy

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I'll do what I can but I had no issues at all installing mine :confused:

Here are a couple pics of mine and a youtube vid showing exactly how I installed my psu.
View attachment 265643
View attachment 265644


This part I don't get, are you talking about the top panel of the case?
Top panel doesnt appear to come off. Its riveted. There is a metal panel that wont come out . There are tabs that sink into the bottom and if the top would come off i could remove the panel and install the power supply.
 

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mvmiller12

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Top panel doesnt appear to come off. Its riveted. There is a metal panel that wont come out . There are tabs that sink into the bottom and if the top would come off i could remove the panel and install the power supply.
It looks like you got one of the Lian Li PC-O11 variants, maybe? There are several O11 variants... There is the O11 (no removable top, I think), the O11 Dynamic (which Daphatgrant and I have), O11 Dynamic Razor (which has integrated lighting), the O11 Dynamic XL (a bigger version of the O11 Dynamic with some integrated ASUS ROG branding and lighting), and the O11 WGX (also a larger case).

The point is, check your box and see which exact model you got.
 

Crazydaisy

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It looks like you got one of the Lian Li PC-O11 variants, maybe? There are several O11 variants... There is the O11 (no removable top, I think), the O11 Dynamic (which Daphatgrant and I have), O11 Dynamic Razor (which has integrated lighting), the O11 Dynamic XL (a bigger version of the O11 Dynamic with some integrated ASUS ROG branding and lighting), and the O11 WGX (also a larger case).

The point is, check your box and see which exact model you got.
Im pissed now. I had no idea there were so many. I knew this big . Which made me think id be fine working with it
 

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mvmiller12

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Im pissed now. I had no idea there were so many. I knew this big . Which made me think id be fine working with it
Top cover should slide off towards the back after you pull BOTH side panels off. The side panels lock the top plate on, which is a thin, metal cover that sits over the fans.
 

daphatgrant

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Well I guess we figured out why the case is different, lol. Don't be distressed though the XL is a great case, just has more room.

In regards to the PSU, the vertical panel in front of the PSU should be able to be unscrewed and removed.
 

Crazydaisy

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Top cover should slide off towards the back after you pull BOTH side panels off. The side panels lock the top plate on, which is a thin, metal cover that sits over the fans.
Well I guess we figured out why the case is different, lol. Don't be distressed though the XL is a great case, just has more room.

In regards to the PSU, the vertical panel in front of the PSU should be able to be unscrewed and removed.
I unscrewed that piece of metal top and bottom but it wont come out . Like i said this metal panel has tabs that go through slots in the bottom frame. Unless i separate either the top or bottom its not going anywhere. So i unscrewed the housing for the skide out hard drives, i can get the power supply in now but that freakin piece of metal will make it very difficult to run cabling to everything. I hust want it gone unless its there to offer some support.
 

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daphatgrant

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I unscrewed that piece of metal top and bottom but it wont come out . Like i said this metal panel has tabs that go through slots in the bottom frame. Unless i separate either the top or bottom its not going anywhere. So i unscrewed the housing for the skide out hard drives, i can get the power supply in now but that freakin piece of metal will make it very difficult to run cabling to everything. I hust want it gone unless its there to offer some support.
Can you post a pic of the top of that bracket where it attaches to the case?
 

Crazydaisy

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Top cover should slide off towards the back after you pull BOTH side panels off. The side panels lock the top plate on, which is a thin, metal cover that sits over the fans.
All other panels are off including the top but its not like its completely open where i can access that side of the case
Can you post a pic of the top of that bracket where it attaches to the case?
Sure and thanks. My pictures suck though
 

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mvmiller12

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I unscrewed that piece of metal top and bottom but it wont come out . Like i said this metal panel has tabs that go through slots in the bottom frame. Unless i separate either the top or bottom its not going anywhere. So i unscrewed the housing for the skide out hard drives, i can get the power supply in now but that freakin piece of metal will make it very difficult to run cabling to everything. I hust want it gone unless its there to offer some support.
Oh! I completely misunderstood you. I thought you meant the top plate - not that side support bracket. Yeah, you can safely remove that. There's only a few screws and a tab that hold it in, and you don't need to put it back in if you don't want to.

In my O11, that bracket is where my Koolance electronics are mounted. I had a Koolance RP-1000 5.25" bay pump/reservoir where the reservoir had cracked. Rather than replace the reservoir for ~$40, I gutted the electronics and the pump and connected them to a $25 stand-alone reservoir instead. Worked great until the PMP-400 (Koolance's name for the DDC pump) died a year later. I replaced it with a D5 and it's still chugging along. I was sad the original pump die, but in fairness, I got over 10 years of near-continuous service out of it.

Here is a picture of the system as originally built, with the Koolance displays front and center - the pump and control electronics are in the other compartment on that bracket, and with the glass on (and without flash photography lighting it up), you can't see the wires running back there at all.

WP_20190324_23_20_46_Pro.jpg
 

mvmiller12

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All other panels are off including the top but its not like its completely open where i can access that side of the case

Sure and thanks. My pictures suck though
Look for the screw on the BOTTOM of the case. (Bottom meaning the underside, where the feet are). Those tricky bastards hid one there,
 

Crazydaisy

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Oh! I completely misunderstood you. I thought you meant the top plate - not that side support bracket. Yeah, you can safely remove that. There's only a few screws and a tab that hold it in, and you don't need to put it back in if you don't want to.

In my O11, that bracket is where my Koolance electronics are mounted. I had a Koolance RP-1000 5.25" bay pump/reservoir where the reservoir had cracked. Rather than replace the reservoir for ~$40, I gutted the electronics and the pump and connected them to a $25 stand-alone reservoir instead. Worked great until the PMP-400 (Koolance's name for the DDC pump) died a year later. I replaced it with a D5 and it's still chugging along. I was sad the original pump die, but in fairness, I got over 10 years of near-continuous service out of it.

Here is a picture of the system as originally built, with the Koolance displays front and center - the pump and control electronics are in the other compartment on that bracket, and with the glass on (and without flash photography lighting it up), you can't see the wires running back there at all.

View attachment 265677
I must be a moron then cause i have no idea how to get it out of there
 

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