Anything I should know about buying a soldering gun? What kind of solder do I buy?Just hit the power-button with the monitor unplugged and you'll not be in any danger. Ofcourse, be careful with what you touch on the power board. The manual is linked above, you'll need djvu viewer
For this particular application, I would buy a soldering iron that you can be very precise with (small thin point). And you won't want thick solder either, get something thin you can maneuver easily with and won't find yourself with too much excess on the board.Anything I should know about buying a soldering gun? What kind of solder do I buy?
The Dell E-IPS monitors are really nice. The only real drawback I could find on the U2412M over the LG is the AG coating. It's more noticeable, but I got used to it after a few days of use. Contrast, color and black level are a big improvement over the LG, so you shouldn't be disappointed.Mine's finally going off the deepend. I need to buy a new monitor or switch to d-sub ...
Replacing it with the new series of Dell E-IPS's (HM models).
I believe the input lag on the LG is around 22ms and the newer Dell E-IPS monitors average around 10ms or under. The Dell U2312HM averages 0.6ms according to TFT Central. No problem if you want to game on these.How does the input lag compare? My bezzel recently cracked by the HDready sticker, probably from heat cycle since I barely move the thing. I'm really surprised that the e-ips contrast is better.
Yeah I was avoiding the Dell's for the past year or so, due to complaints about purple/yellow tints but that issue seems largely resolved with their new panels. At this point I don't have a choice anymore.I believe the input lag on the LG is around 22ms and the newer Dell E-IPS monitors average around 10ms or under. The Dell U2312HM averages 0.6ms according to TFT Central. No problem if you want to game on these.
Time to move on. Mine went to crap a month ago, so I replaced it with a Dell U2412M. It's an excellent upgrade from the LG L245/L246. No more image shift crap to deal with.My L245WP has just died, and i am sooooo over the moon, what a damn crap monitor from LG it has been.
Burn-in mostly.What went belly up? I had it for years before the EDID bug bit me, and then it's a 15 minutes fix once in a blue moon.
I thought all crop and shift issues were with nVidia cards? This link has a bunch of suggestions. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1167222&page=89
Did you try all of the potential registry entries? I haven't found a way to identify the correct one reliably. I think mine were the ones with the most values.
did you figure this out? I have same issue (including in bios) on my i5-2500k machineWonder if any one is able to solve the crop and shift issue on a Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Intel 3000 GPU, hdmi to hdmi.
I tried several of the registry methods but none of them works, not sure if I have missed anything since this is a really long thread.
Thanks in advance.
Here is a video of how to fix:My L246WP has been acting up for a while now, in the not waking from sleep more, so I just power it down, I still have one of those power bar things that sits under it with the switchs on the front so that is easy and no worry about the switch breaking. Well it recently started flickering and acting up, I run it in I guess native mode, always have, it is like some other have found a 245 acording to the service menu. It was the display model at future shop as they only had 2 of them and the other one had a bad pixel in it. The build date on it puts it at 5 years old but it was over a year old when I picked it up so I have had it maybe 4 years. Something tells me that it had a 5 year warrenty on it and they where to supply me with a replacement monitor while this was in for repair. Well along with some other paperwork I seem to have lost my reciept in a move 2 years ago.
Well its acting up now, as I said always ran it at native mode with a BFGTech AGP video card. It blanks out, it squiggles, it gets this funny dim out on it, it will get lines on it like the interface to the panel is messed up. Now here is the wierd part, I hooked it up to a HD FTA satellite reciever and it is working fine right now with a 1080P input. Over there I also have an XBOX360 with HDMI output and an old 47 inch cinepluss LCD TV. And a computer with a BFG Tech GeForce 7950 GT OC video card, now everything displays to the cinepluss with no problems even the windows 7 computer with the 7950 in it, the xbox360 and the FTA reciever all using HDMI. Now the weird part is the LG will not display the XBOX360 or the computer, it just says check the cable then it goes into sleep mode after a bit. Same thing happens if I hook the win7 computer to it. Doesn't seem to matter what resolution the computer is set to use the LG will not display it. Hell it won't even display the boot screen where it scans the dirves or anything but it will if I hook it to the cineplus.
Sounds like CAPs?
Does anyone have a complete list of the caps that need should be changed?
I will be in a city where I may be able to pick up the caps tomorrow, monday so a complete list would be nice to have.
Any other thoughts or ideas on this?
I really want to start using the win7 computer thats hooked to the cinepluss but if it isn't going to work in native mode using DVI to HDMI I am sorta stuck.
Thanks for all input.
How exactly do you connect via a dvi->usb cable? I tried i5 hdmi->hdmi, no eeprom found. I tried gt220 dvi->hdmi, still no eeprom found.I've made progress. when attached to an older nvidia 7900GT (as opposed to the i5-2500k's hdmi) via a dvi->usb cable it detects the eeprom just fine, but then when I try to update, it gives an error that the "EEPROM may be write-protected or the cable may simply be too long". I've enabled the service menu (menu while turning on, but doesn't seem like there's anything to do in it to change this)