Using 48cx and nvidia 3080 for weeks I noticed that at random times about once per day screen just froze for a second and pc make a sound like you connect something and got notification that gsync monitor was connected. So far it only happened for me on desktop while browsing firefox. Not a single time during game. Could it be a driver related issue or TDR issue or most like hdmi cable issue? (4k 120hz 10bit rgb full)
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
- Start date
Yeah, VRR use was unintentional in my case. But it made the flicker extremely visible and I truly understand now why that can be a real issue in some games.
The only thing that works is setting Kodi in windowed fullscreen mode and enabling gsync only for exclusive fullscreen.
I tried disabling gsync in nvcp, but that leads to Kodi crashing when it does it's refreshrate changing. Refrehrate change works in windowed fullscreen with the mentioned workaround above though.
That sounds like an issue with either the app or Nvidia drivers. I'd report it to both vendors and see if it gets fixed. But I would still not hold this as some example of the TV issue itself because it's basically G-Sync going haywire on an app where it should not be used in the first place. On my CRG9 I could see Spotify for example making the monitor start flipping rapidly between 48 and 120 Hz when it was open. Which is not what would happen normally in an actual game.
You can add Kodi.exe to the WIndows Media Player or Internet Explorer nvidia profile, those have g-sync permanently disabled. That's what I do for apps that I don't want VRR on.
Also I don't think anyone wants the g-sync in windowed mode option enabled right now. It appears that nvidia and/or microsoft have broken it again. It stutters and the TV overlay shows it's basically doing something like 60/120hz rapid cycling, so I guess it's not bypassing DWM properly anymore (it used to, some months ago). As you can see in that thread, it's not some hardware issue. He was able to reproduce it with different GPUs and different screens including some with a g-sync module (just like I'm reproducing it on this TV now that the VRR stutter has been fixed).
It should work for DX12 and Vulkan titles fine though, since those have usually no issue bypassing DWM. But in my experience the fullscreen g-sync option works with those if you use borderless mode anyway (for example on WoW).
Also I don't think anyone wants the g-sync in windowed mode option enabled right now. It appears that nvidia and/or microsoft have broken it again. It stutters and the TV overlay shows it's basically doing something like 60/120hz rapid cycling, so I guess it's not bypassing DWM properly anymore (it used to, some months ago). As you can see in that thread, it's not some hardware issue. He was able to reproduce it with different GPUs and different screens including some with a g-sync module (just like I'm reproducing it on this TV now that the VRR stutter has been fixed).
It should work for DX12 and Vulkan titles fine though, since those have usually no issue bypassing DWM. But in my experience the fullscreen g-sync option works with those if you use borderless mode anyway (for example on WoW).
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Just a reminder that for people who want to use UW resolutions, running fullscreen windowed mode is necessary for some games as a workaround so you'd want VRR in windowed mode for those.
Technically the CX is already a 240Hz panel as this is how it achieves BFI with native 120Hz input. So if the panel electronics had the necessary hardware improvements (because I would assume it would require more than just a firmware upgrade), such a function as native 240Hz input could be achievable as soon as next year even over HDMI 2.1 via nothing more than either Display Stream Compression or, less ideally, 4:2:0 chroma subsampling.
...or simply by dropping the resolution; the C8 (not a typo) for example can accept a 1080p 120Hz signal despite being unable to do 4k 120Hz.
The only issue is that a big reason for the use of a 240Hz panel in the CX is because LG uses the extra refresh to clean up any over/undershoot, so natively feeding a direct 240Hz signal may bring back the old vignetting/"dark flames" (not a typo) issue originally seen on the C8 and older models back in 2018 (before a firmware update helped to somewhat mitigate it) without also doubling the panel's native refresh rate to 480Hz.
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MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
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I can't do 120hz 10 bit rbg full 444 without massive screen flicker no matter what I do. This is with my 3080 and CX updated. I have to run it at 60hz 8 bit full rgb. I cannot figure it out smh.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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1. Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC in the home menu
2. Buy a Zeskit 2m HDMI cable on Amazon.
I think in your case its caused by hdmi cable, which was demonstrated by HDTV test in past. But in my case its like 1 link drop in 5 hours of usage which is weird. I am going to try to swap from RGB full to ycbcr 4:4:4 if something change, and then I will swap to different cable which should pass denon 40gbit cable test.
Unfortunately I cant find any log entry in event viewer from time when TV drop so it should not be driver related issue. So probably some handshake issue or crc errors by external interferrence.
I'd like to know another opinions but unfortunately no replies so far.
I'd like to get Zeskit 3m cable in EU but it looks its not available anywhere.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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I got a 55" Vizio OLED for my bedroom with the Best Buy $900 deal yesterday. If anyone was still considering getting this to use as a PC gaming moniitor....DO NOT DO IT!!!
1. Running a RGB signal to it disables a ton of options and has constant judder. I watched John Wick 3 from my HTPC and was frustrated with the judder the entire movie until I figured out switching the output to YCbCr 444 fixes it. Same issue from an Xbox One X. RGB also seems to disable a ton of settings options, but I'm finding these disabled some other times too and haven't nailed down quite what's causing it.
2. I didn't test it, but according to reviews VRR is totally busted.
3. Far fewer calibration options, far more confusing menu.
4. But one plus, it has a DTS license. I don't have equipment to test eARC though.
None of this should matter for a bedroom TV so I'm still happy enough, but I would have been extremely pissed if I intended to use it as a gaming monitor, or even playing console games on it.
1. Running a RGB signal to it disables a ton of options and has constant judder. I watched John Wick 3 from my HTPC and was frustrated with the judder the entire movie until I figured out switching the output to YCbCr 444 fixes it. Same issue from an Xbox One X. RGB also seems to disable a ton of settings options, but I'm finding these disabled some other times too and haven't nailed down quite what's causing it.
2. I didn't test it, but according to reviews VRR is totally busted.
3. Far fewer calibration options, far more confusing menu.
4. But one plus, it has a DTS license. I don't have equipment to test eARC though.
None of this should matter for a bedroom TV so I'm still happy enough, but I would have been extremely pissed if I intended to use it as a gaming monitor, or even playing console games on it.
I checked tons of topics about RGB vs YCbCr 444 for PC usage and most of them sugest there should be identical. Some of them sugested its better to use YCbCr 444 because TV will stil do internal conversion from RGB to YCbCr. I am sad there realy is not any technical review with some precise measurements which will provide if there is any difference.
This specifically i have not been able to get working on the CX48. Do you know some secret magic trick ? These resolutions always scale to fullscreen, even though i set all settings in NVCP as they should be. Scaling off and perform scaling on GPU and so forth.
For me it works fine as long as I set either integer scaling or no scaling as the option and set scaling to be done on GPU.
What if you "cheat the system" by making a custom resolution that is 3840px wide, such as 3840x1440 or 3840x1080?
Heck IIRC, the latter resolution is even supported natively by the TV itself when GPU scaling is disabled, though I believe it will be stretched vertically (though maybe you can change the TV's scaling mode to fix that?).
...speaking of which, I don't suppose the CX itself has different aspect/scaling modes to allow the likes of 1440p and 1080p to be displayed as-is with 1:1 pixel mapping with no upscaling?
You can do either. GPU has to do the scaling. I don't think the display itself has any option to not scale fullscreen. So if you want 1440p 120 Hz with no scaling you are going to need a HDMI 2.1 GPU or the Club3D adapter and a GPU that supports DSC.
I don't think 3840x1080 is a particularly great choice for this display. The lack of curvature and longer viewing distance makes that super ultrawide aspect ratio not work so well. 3840x1440 and 3840x1600 are far better options.
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There are a few like this or similar on amazon or elsewhere that some people have posted...
........
But personally I'd go with a floor stand with wheels or a flat foot like these below. That why I could keep the stand right up against the desk but have more options for the long run modularity wise.
There is one on amazon for around $115 like this one:
There are others for around $75 but be careful because some of them have no tilt /nod adjustability. Some align crooked or come with missing parts etc. so do your homework.
This one is super solid and really nice but it pricey by comparison:
~ $239 + shipping direct from displays2go or currently on amazon
https://www.displays2go.com/P-16610/Black-Cheap-LCD-TV-Stands-Economy-Design-32-47-Monitors
..............................
I'm going to try one of my ergotron LX HD monitor arms tonight since I just got the LG 48 CX box home and it's still in the box. The ergoton LX HD is rated for 30 Lbs and the LG CX without stand is at 33.5 Lbs so it will be close.
I'll be cranking this screw tight. Since I plan on leaving it at desk height mostly I don't think it will be a problem as the weight can stay on the desk. The part that can't hold the heaviest weights is mainly the last "tilt" hinge on those arms. I think that the arm will still help make it more moveable either way.
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This is the best one. The others are overpriced. The build quality and finish is outstanding. The base is huge and very stable.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=39657
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=39657
99% of the talk about the module never pointed out this particular issue, and until old even there it was muted with the already lifted blacks of lcds
Absolutely none. Wall mount or floor stand is much better choice as you can then vary your viewing distance by moving your desk back rather than requiring a very deep desk.
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I just picked up my PS5 from Bestbuy and HDR gaming on the CX is absolutely stunning. Now I'm tempted to drop back to 4k60Hz 444 HDR for PC gaming until I can get a new GPU
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This stand seems pretty good too if you have the clearance for the foot ... (base without wheels is 4"h but it's a big footprint)
Amazon product ASIN B00RPP3262
The pictures of it in the owner's gallery are making me consider this one.
It turns out the LG CX is a 200 x 300 vesa mount so my 200x200 adapter for my ergo arm won't work on it. I ordered a $18 one that can adapt up to 400x400 just to try the arm but I'll probably just order a floor stand.
Amazon product ASIN B00RPP3262
The pictures of it in the owner's gallery are making me consider this one.
It turns out the LG CX is a 200 x 300 vesa mount so my 200x200 adapter for my ergo arm won't work on it. I ordered a $18 one that can adapt up to 400x400 just to try the arm but I'll probably just order a floor stand.
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dpoverlord
2[H]4U
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For those with Audio Lag. FIX SUCCESS!!!! But now screen flickering???
Meet theNAudio.com Zone-2 eArc Audio Process
The Mad3d Adapter was an abysmal failure and did nothing (as predicted)
I purchased the Zone-2 as it was the only one in stock and had to use the option for my setup as:
Cable Setup
1. PC 3090 HDMI ----HDMI 48GB Cable ------> LG55GX HDMI 1
2. LG55GX EArc Port---HDMI 48GB---> Sharc Port 1
3. Sharc Zone-2 eArc Port 3 ----HDMI48GB -----> Creative Sonic Carrier HDMI 1 (Does not work in arc PORT)
The issues I am finding so far:
1. Lots of screen flickering when I move into MPC-Be X64 (seems to not do this in other apps so thinking there is an incompatibility with MadVR, SVP or some codec).
---> Does not have a flickering screen in mpv but it's really odd
---> Can't seem to get DTS-HD to play in my Sonic Carrier with this in MPC-BE x64 but am trying to find a work around
2. I feel like there is a lot of screen flickering from HDR to non HDR in games. I went to Display settings and it seems the HDR setting there is being turned off and on.
----> Concerned this could affect burn in so I am confused.
Anyone else using MPC-Be X64 + Mad VR and having an echo or constant screen flickering when resizing the screen, etc? The colors seem washed out so will need to figure this out.
Anyone else getting screen flickering of going in and out of HDR MODES?
Monstieur
Meet theNAudio.com Zone-2 eArc Audio Process
The Mad3d Adapter was an abysmal failure and did nothing (as predicted)
I purchased the Zone-2 as it was the only one in stock and had to use the option for my setup as:
Cable Setup
1. PC 3090 HDMI ----HDMI 48GB Cable ------> LG55GX HDMI 1
2. LG55GX EArc Port---HDMI 48GB---> Sharc Port 1
3. Sharc Zone-2 eArc Port 3 ----HDMI48GB -----> Creative Sonic Carrier HDMI 1 (Does not work in arc PORT)
The issues I am finding so far:
1. Lots of screen flickering when I move into MPC-Be X64 (seems to not do this in other apps so thinking there is an incompatibility with MadVR, SVP or some codec).
---> Does not have a flickering screen in mpv but it's really odd
---> Can't seem to get DTS-HD to play in my Sonic Carrier with this in MPC-BE x64 but am trying to find a work around
2. I feel like there is a lot of screen flickering from HDR to non HDR in games. I went to Display settings and it seems the HDR setting there is being turned off and on.
----> Concerned this could affect burn in so I am confused.
Anyone else using MPC-Be X64 + Mad VR and having an echo or constant screen flickering when resizing the screen, etc? The colors seem washed out so will need to figure this out.
Anyone else getting screen flickering of going in and out of HDR MODES?
Monstieur
I currently rock a 17lb 40" on an electronic standing desk, which I like desk mounted because it rises and falls with my desk (Bamboo Fully desk).
The arm is onlly rated for ~20lbs though. But I think rocking a slightly larger 43" wouldn't be out of the question so long as an arm exists.
The arm is onlly rated for ~20lbs though. But I think rocking a slightly larger 43" wouldn't be out of the question so long as an arm exists.
chimera991
[H]ard|Gawd
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Negative, I dont think it was a pile of crap at all. Removing it was a stupid decision which I hope they re-add to the c1 line up. Was just watching today, nfl on one screen, youtube on the left and can switch audio. You can watch either hdmi or cable tv or whatever. This is on a 2018 B8 55" too. Sucks they removed it on the CX line up.
My undertanding is that on the B8 it also allowed two HDMI. Not so on the C9. The one on the C9 was an awful user experience altogether and just discovering the feature was difficult. For some reason they first made the feature worse then just removed it.
Adding a proper PbP mode on the C11 series would actually be a big enough feature that I might sell my CX for one. I've been missing it on my current setup.
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I use multiple screens and sometimes have three windows stacked on one of my 43 inch screens that are in portrait mode. One or all three can be video windows (like running my hdhomerun ota antenna in an app window for local news). So I can do that, or some other app window tiled 2/3 if the height of the screen (eg web browser, file browser, or email)..with a video frame or other window on top or bottom.
Now that I have a lg cx I'll use it for a full screen media playback and gaming stage /"window" . Even if i run some smaller video window(s) on a portion of the side portrait monitor, I'll swap whatever I want full screen to "the main ring" on the fly using display fusion hotkey's tied to streamers buttons.
If I really wanted to, on the CX, I could set up displayfusion window hotkey's to place video windows into quads, or "half screen" on each side (letterboxed) or "half" on one side and one above the other stacked on the other side.
= = or | = or = |
If you have external feeds you just have to figure out what hardware (eg. capture card or networked tuners
) you'd need to get to import the signal to a player on your pc directly or via stream instead of using the ports on the TV itself. Using power mixer app for windows you can easily adjust the audio of each app individually too. I set-up power mixer to enable midi input and use a cheap small midi board's faders to make it easier to do but you can use the power mixer app window's on screen volume sliders per app with your mouse.
Now that I have a lg cx I'll use it for a full screen media playback and gaming stage /"window" . Even if i run some smaller video window(s) on a portion of the side portrait monitor, I'll swap whatever I want full screen to "the main ring" on the fly using display fusion hotkey's tied to streamers buttons.
If I really wanted to, on the CX, I could set up displayfusion window hotkey's to place video windows into quads, or "half screen" on each side (letterboxed) or "half" on one side and one above the other stacked on the other side.
= = or | = or = |
If you have external feeds you just have to figure out what hardware (eg. capture card or networked tuners
) you'd need to get to import the signal to a player on your pc directly or via stream instead of using the ports on the TV itself. Using power mixer app for windows you can easily adjust the audio of each app individually too. I set-up power mixer to enable midi input and use a cheap small midi board's faders to make it easier to do but you can use the power mixer app window's on screen volume sliders per app with your mouse.
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MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
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Anyone else get the 03.11.30 update today. OH yeah
Just got the 03.11.30 OTA update. Will be testing shortly.
On my RTX 3080 and CX 55.
Capped my frame rate @ 115, turned on gsync, set resolution to 4K120 4:4:4 10-bit, fired up Unreal Tournament 3 (and old game I knew would stay pegged at 115 fps @ 4K)
Boy... that sucker was smooooooooooooooth.
LG... you done good. Real good.
EDIT: confirmed with the Freesync Information page.
Capped my frame rate @ 115, turned on gsync, set resolution to 4K120 4:4:4 10-bit, fired up Unreal Tournament 3 (and old game I knew would stay pegged at 115 fps @ 4K)
Boy... that sucker was smooooooooooooooth.
LG... you done good. Real good.
EDIT: confirmed with the Freesync Information page.
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I just played a round of Overwatch locked @ 115 FPS 4K 4:4:4 10-bit.
Does it get any better than this? This is stupendous!!!! Gaming has never looked this good, IMO. Everything is sharp, clear, colorful, fast, and not a frame tear in sight.
If you're a PC gamer, the LG CX should be your goal for a display. This thing is on a whole new level now that LG has fixed the HDMI 2.1 gsync issues. Wow....
Does it get any better than this? This is stupendous!!!! Gaming has never looked this good, IMO. Everything is sharp, clear, colorful, fast, and not a frame tear in sight.
If you're a PC gamer, the LG CX should be your goal for a display. This thing is on a whole new level now that LG has fixed the HDMI 2.1 gsync issues. Wow....
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Not JUST PC gaming, but ALL gaming. I played 10 hours of Demon's Souls on PS5 yesterday and I feel like HDR performance on the CX is improved upon when compared to my old B7. BTW I found this video pretty helpful for any other PS5 owners here:
MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
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What was the biggest change for you with the new update?On my RTX 3080 and CX 55.
Capped my frame rate @ 115, turned on gsync, set resolution to 4K120 4:4:4 10-bit, fired up Unreal Tournament 3 (and old game I knew would stay pegged at 115 fps @ 4K)
Boy... that sucker was smooooooooooooooth.
LG... you done good. Real good.
EDIT: confirmed with the Freesync Information page.
GSYNC no longer stutters at > 90 FPS for 4K 120 4:4:4 10-bit.
MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
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In your NV Panel under resolution settings are you using the PC resolutions or the Ultra HD, HD, SD resolutions? I'm asking because I'm using the PC resolutions
and have just now experienced losing signal to the TV randomly. I'm also using Zeskit 8K cables. I have the same settings as you except my refresh is set to 120Hz.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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Has to be the PC one because the TV one is limited to 60hz refresh rate.
Since UT3 should be able to easily run locked at 115fps 100% of the time, here's something else you can try:
- Set the framerate cap to 120fps
- Turn off gsync.
- Turn on "Motion Pro" (black frame insertion).
Now it should be really smooth...though I kind of wonder if LG's implementation of black frame insertion at 120Hz impacts the input lag (I'd love to check this myself, but I only have access to an E9 which doesn't support BFI on 120Hz inputs). It is however worth noting that Rtings' review of the CX states that VRR @ 4k has around double the input lag of 4k 120Hz without VRR (yet interestingly 1080p + VRR is listed with the lowest input lag of all).
Porter_
[H]F Junkie
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All setup and I’m really liking it. One thing that’s bothering me, using my 2080Ti - the image improvement going from 60hz to 100+hz is huge (I felt the same way back when I had the first gen ASUS ROG Swift). So that means I have to run in YCbCr 4:2:0. I only care about gaming and while gaming i don’t notice a difference. But I do notice little things like the RTSS overlay isn’t quite as saturated of a yellow color compared to RGB 4:4:4. And the Lagom LCD test black level and white saturation images clip at the low/high end when using YCbCr 4:2:0. So this leads me to wonder what image quality sacrifices I’m making while gaming, if any. I’m sure there are others here struggling between the lesser of two evils, what are people choosing?
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First off, amazing setup! Personally I've been mainly using 120Hz 420 for the past 5 months and I would only change back to 60Hz 444 for HDR gaming which I haven't had much of on PC. 8Bit 420 is perfectly fine for SDR gaming.