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LG 48CX

I just flashed the firmware from the Korea website (the USA model CX48 doesn't complain about it, or provide any indication it isn't for my set. It loaded fine from a USB flash drive, I suspect it's the same firmware that will go on the US site eventually).

Not only does it appear that VRR is fixed, but I purposely did the flash while I was having one of the random bouts of screen flashing on the desktop. It was absolutely doing it non stop every 30 seconds or so even after a TV restart.

After the flash, the screen flashing STOPPED.

So now I've got GSync on Window and Full Screen, 120hz, RGB, 10bit all at once and so far ZERO issues. (other than I suppose the low refresh gamma... but that's a completely separate thing everyone has to live with).

Quite happy so far.

This set is really the ultimate. I was questioning my sanity at spending this much, but provided I can keep the burn in at bay I never want to look at any other screen again. Yes, it's that much better.
 
48cx to a display port only docking station. Are there any display port to hdmi 2.1 cables (no adapter, im talking about a male display port to male hdmi 2.1, do they exist?). I plan on getting hdmi 2.1 cables for sure, but since my work setup is display port I have to go DP to HDMI route.

Just hooked it up, now I've hooked up a 55" with the stand by myself but hooking this up to a desk arm mount was a PITA, even if it is 7" smaller. I thought i was going to break the fricken thing just trying to get the screws lined up to mount to the pole!
 
48cx to a display port only docking station. Are there any display port to hdmi 2.1 cables (no adapter, im talking about a male display port to male hdmi 2.1, do they exist?). I plan on getting hdmi 2.1 cables for sure, but since my work setup is display port I have to go DP to HDMI route.

Just hooked it up, now I've hooked up a 55" with the stand by myself but hooking this up to a desk arm mount was a PITA, even if it is 7" smaller. I thought i was going to break the fricken thing just trying to get the screws lined up to mount to the pole!

There's no such thing as "male HDMI 2.1", the connector is just "HDMI", it's never changed. Displayport 1.4 doesn't support the bandwidth of HDMI 2.1 so a DP->HDMI cable can only carry an HDMI 2.0 signal. This would still work on the TV as long as you use a resolution/color depth that fits in HDMI 2.0 bandwidth.
 
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First time I heard about that concept, an HDMI extender called female hdmi to male hdmi extension would not make any sense because There's no such thing as "male HDMI 2.1" ?

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4826
Monoprice DisplayPort Male to HDMI Female Adapter

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4860
Monoprice HDMI® Right Angle Port Saver Adapter (Male to Female)
The connector is just "HDMI". It's been the same since it's inception. The signal it carries is HDMI 1.0, HDMI 1.4, HDMI 2.0, HDMI 2.1, etc. Just like the same RJ45 connector carries 10Mb, 100Mb, 1Gb, 10Gb, etc. ethernet.
 
The connector is just "HDMI". It's been the same since it's inception. The signal it carries is HDMI 1.0, HDMI 1.4, HDMI 2.0, HDMI 2.1, etc.
Not sure I get the relevance to what you say to the physical form of the HDMI connector, usually your video card has female hdmi connector so has your tv/monitor and you will use a male hdmi to male hdmi cable between the 2.

When someone want to make it clear he would like a cable and not a small adapter (DP to female HDMI), he can say male DP to male hdmi cable, if he want an extension he can male hdmi to female hdmi and so on.
 
Just got the auto update for 03.11.30 👍. Yay for fixing the gsync pc issue!!
 
What settings do you use? All max - you wont go above 70
Settings I turned down from Ultra are Shadows (high), Reflections (med), Clouds (high), and AO (high). AA is off, don't need it at 4k w/ Nvidia Sharpening. I regularly hit 100+ FPS, and well over 105 in indoor areas where I had previously noticed stuttering. That is fixed with the new firmware.
 
Just got the update, and I'm in Europe! Gonna test it right away.

edit: g-sync working perfectly as promised.
 
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What annoys me about the TV is when you set it to PC mode in the Home Dashboard setting, or any other setting in the HDMI configuration, once you unplug your HDMI cable from either the TV or your video card, the HDMI setting will revert to it's default setting which is annoying and I have to go to the Home Dashboard to reconfigure it back to "PC Mode" all the time. Is there a workaround to make the HDMI setting stick?
 
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What annoys me about the TV is when you set it to PC mode in the Home Dashboard setting, or any other setting in the HDMI configuration, once you unplug your HDMI cable from either the TV or your video card, the HDMI setting will revert to it's default setting which is annoying and I have to go to the Home Dashboard to reconfigure it back to "PC Mode" all the time. Is there a workaround to make the HDMI setting stick?
Same here. And when that happens, most times VRR is stuck at 120hz. You can verify that by going into a game where you dont reach120 fps and open up the hidden VRR menu by hitting 5 x green button on your remote.
 
I mentioned hdmi handshaking on wakeup being an issue occasionally when using displayport adapters on my other hdmi 2.0 4k 60hz screens. This results in screen blinking/flashing repeatedly and sometimes end up with no signal. When that would happen, the PC mode (rgb enabled) setting would drop off which to me is noticeable immediately since it causes tattered edges on text (especially colored text). For that reason, I only use 1 displayport adapter currently. Now that I have two of the same TV it's more of a pain since I have to get up and shield the remote with my back in order to swap settings (like back to PC Mode ~ RGB) on only one of the two tvs. Once both tvs are set up it's actually more convenient to control them both with a single remote though. I'm hoping to get a 3 hdmi port aorus gpu in the future so eventually I'll have 3hdmi out to 3hdmi tvs with no displayport adapters.

The hdmi input switching back to the default setting on disconnect happens with different tv models so I'm pretty sure that is the same with most if not every tv. You could try to find an autodetection setting in the OSD and try to turn that off but it doesn't sound hopeful. I would just keep the pc plugged in to it's own dedicated hdmi port as much as possible and use the other ports if needed for other things.
 
So, it sounds like the consensus is with NVIDIA 3000 series cards all the Gsync related issues are (finally) fixed?

Aside from that, anyone try with one of AMDs new products? Any issues to report on their side?

Once again, waiting for a GPU. So March? :/
 
Do you guys know of anyway to hide the task bar on the primary screen while keeping it shown on a secondary?
I suppose I could make my side monitor primary and hide the task bar on my cx... thats a pain to switch back and forth though.
 
Do you guys know of anyway to hide the task bar on the primary screen while keeping it shown on a secondary?
I suppose I could make my side monitor primary and hide the task bar on my cx... thats a pain to switch back and forth though.
This could be done with displayfusion program. You can autohide start menu on main monitor and on secondary start menu will be shown aplications which are shown on that screen. Only issue is you are not able to use start menu on secondary. Like search will only apear on primary mon.
 
Do you guys know of anyway to hide the task bar on the primary screen while keeping it shown on a secondary?
I suppose I could make my side monitor primary and hide the task bar on my cx... thats a pain to switch back and forth though.
1606146990755.png


set 'show taskbar on all displays' to off

I use multiple displays and have always done this to get extra real-estate on my primary.
 
Not sure I get the relevance to what you say to the physical form of the HDMI connector, usually your video card has female hdmi connector so has your tv/monitor and you will use a male hdmi to male hdmi cable between the 2.

When someone want to make it clear he would like a cable and not a small adapter (DP to female HDMI), he can say male DP to male hdmi cable, if he want an extension he can male hdmi to female hdmi and so on.
exactly, i dont know why people would comment if they dont know wtf I am talking about. I'm not looking for an adapter that has a female end. BUT if I do need one that's usb powered (to help amplify) then I will use an adapter. I think I might in this case since nobody makes a displayport to hdmi that outputs at ATLEAST 4k60hz. Right now I'm stuck at 30hz on my docking station (laptop is i5, 8365u).

First time I heard about that concept, an HDMI extender called female hdmi to male hdmi extension would not make any sense because There's no such thing as "male HDMI 2.1" ?

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4826
Monoprice DisplayPort Male to HDMI Female Adapter

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4860
Monoprice HDMI® Right Angle Port Saver Adapter (Male to Female)
Thanks for the link, funny that after you posted this he still responds, maybe he didnt click it to see what a femal hdmi looks like?
 
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exactly, i dont know why people would comment if they dont know wtf I am talking about. I'm not looking for an adapter that has a female end. BUT if I do need one that's usb powered (to help amplify) then I will use an adapter. I think I might in this case since nobody makes a displayport to hdmi that outputs at ATLEAST 4k60hz. Right now I'm stuck at 30hz on my docking station (laptop is i5, 8365u).


Thanks for the link, funny that after you posted this he still responds, maybe he didnt click it to see what a femal hdmi looks like?
It doesnt matter if its usb powered or not. Difference is if its active or pasive. If you want go for 4k60+hz you would need

Club 3D DisplayPort1.4 to HDMI 4K 120Hz HDR Active Adapter M/F CAC-1085. You can find discusion about this in this thread.​

 
It doesnt matter if its usb powered or not. Difference is if its active or pasive. If you want go for 4k60+hz you would need

Club 3D DisplayPort1.4 to HDMI 4K 120Hz HDR Active Adapter M/F CAC-1085. You can find discusion about this in this thread.​

That adapter requires Display Stream Compression support which is found only on the latest GPUs. So a laptop will not have it, it's a waste of money if you are only looking to get 60 Hz.

exactly, i dont know why people would comment if they dont know wtf I am talking about. I'm not looking for an adapter that has a female end. BUT if I do need one that's usb powered (to help amplify) then I will use an adapter. I think I might in this case since nobody makes a displayport to hdmi that outputs at ATLEAST 4k60hz. Right now I'm stuck at 30hz on my docking station (laptop is i5, 8365u).

You need a Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter, Club3D and CableMatters should have suitable options. This allows for 4K 60 Hz. Make sure you check what version of Displayport is supported by the docking station, it might be limited as well. A lot of docking stations and USB multiport hubs are a pile of crap when it comes to supporting higher refresh rates.
 
exactly, i dont know why people would comment if they dont know wtf I am talking about. I'm not looking for an adapter that has a female end. BUT if I do need one that's usb powered (to help amplify) then I will use an adapter. I think I might in this case since nobody makes a displayport to hdmi that outputs at ATLEAST 4k60hz. Right now I'm stuck at 30hz on my docking station (laptop is i5, 8365u).


Thanks for the link, funny that after you posted this he still responds, maybe he didnt click it to see what a femal hdmi looks like?
You're not getting it (and other people are telling you so). It isn't about male vs. female, it's about the connector just being HDMI. You can get a passive DP->HDMI cable (what you seem to mean you want). The signal is HDMI 1.4, 2.0, 2.1 etc. No current version of DP can be passively converted to HDMI 2.1 because there is not enough bandwidth.
 
That adapter requires Display Stream Compression support which is found only on the latest GPUs. So a laptop will not have it, it's a waste of money if you are only looking to get 60 Hz.



You need a Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter, Club3D and CableMatters should have suitable options. This allows for 4K 60 Hz. Make sure you check what version of Displayport is supported by the docking station, it might be limited as well. A lot of docking stations and USB multiport hubs are a pile of crap when it comes to supporting higher refresh rates.
Yea I just want to do at least 60hz for my work setup. I ended up pulling the trigger on a club 3d one on amazon for like $21.
 
Do you guys know of anyway to hide the task bar on the primary screen while keeping it shown on a secondary?
I suppose I could make my side monitor primary and hide the task bar on my cx... thats a pain to switch back and forth though.


I don't have my OLED yet but this is some of what I do already and the rest of what I will do once I get mine:

-Translucent taskbar for windows 10 from the microsoft store (makes the taskbar itself clear so no "line" left showing when hidden)

-Taskbar hider app. Set a hotkey to lock the taskbar away hidden. Stays hidden until you hit the hotkey again. Operates by hotkey rather than mouseover if you set it up that way.

-Dump all of my desktop icons into a "desktop-icons" folder in my documents folder and make it a favorite or pinned in file browser

-Black desktop background

-Displayfusion pro and use multiple monitors.
.....set displayfusion pro to use it's own taskbars on the other monitor(s), including windows start menu button, system tray, system clock. Set to slim height (my preference). The system tray(incl. accessing system tray icons and their right click menus, etc) and start menu work on these so there is no reason to use them on the OLED in a multi monitor setup.
.....set displayfusion pro to make the Alt+Tab or CTRL+Alt+Tab menu to only show the apps open on that particular active monitor (that you've been using or that your mouse is currently on). This makes it a lot easier to just use that thumbnail menu to switch apps instead of using the taskbar. You can also customize the size of the thumbnails in the popup in displayfusion's settings.
.....set displayfusion pro to save window position layouts to a named file once I get my most often used apps set up, or a few permutations of window positions/apps to different desciptively named saved layouts.


-only use the OLED for games and multimedia content as a "stage"(my preference, to be safe). Games, movies/videos, streams, art/photography/screenshot slideshows, animated audio visualiztions, etc. Leave things running on it (videos or slideshows, audio visualization etc) even if I'm reading/browsing/working on a different monitor.

-use the logo dimming function of the OLED
-use the pixel shifting function of the OLED
-keep ABL on
-keep the OSD screensaver/power saving on in case windows, bios, or an app ever freezes on screen.
-keep out of extreme heat, direct sunlight building heat even on the back of it, and off of heat exchange vents directly.


------------------------------------

What limits OLEDs in lower peak color volume/color brightness vs % of the screen with brigthness stepdowns and the ABL"reflex" kickin on as tradeoffs are the very things that keep the OLEDs on "simmer" (with brief, generally small % of screen flares in HDR) making it much more unlikely that they will get burn in. There is also a wear-evening function during standby that can "wear down" or "burn down" the rest of the oleds to match the slightly worn areas which can extend the quality lifespan of the untis potentially.

By the way I've been using the regular windows screen saver on my VA gaming screen recently and an app failure notification window popped up above the Screensaver while I was away from the desk for a little while. So I wouldn't recommend relying on that kind of thing. I'd use the OSD powersaving/screensaver and if I was going to be away from the TV for random amount of time, turn it off.

Regarding displayfusion taskbar, just hit Win button + S to pop up a search panel. There's zero reason for me to show my windows taskbar now really..
 
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I'm in the US, and I haven't gotten the 03.11.30 OTA update yet. :(
Download it and update from a flash drive, works great :) I didn't get updates offered automatically for weeks after some people here reported getting them. They seem to be really conservative with their waves.
 
By the way I've been using the regular windows screen saver on my VA gaming screen recently and an app failure notification window popped up above the Screensaver while I was away from the desk for a little while. So I wouldn't recommend relying on that kind of thing. I'd use the OSD powersaving/screensaver and if I was going to be away from the TV for random amount of time, turn it off.

Perhaps the following is indeed what you mean by "OSD powersaving/screensaver", but for years now I always just have the power settings on all of my PCs to automatically turn off the display (or more accurately stop sending a video signal) after 10 minutes, and then usually the actual monitor or TV will similarly automatically turn off after a few minutes of recieving no signal - this would avoid the issue of the PC throwing up an error over-top of a screensaver since, unless the PC has fully locked up, it should still be able to automatically stop outputting a video signal after 10 minutes even while the error message is on-screen (and even when a PC fully locked up, if the display itself already turned off then no amount of locking up from the PC would make the screen turn back on).
 
Canadian OLED48CXPUA still haven’t gotten the new firmware OTA. Maybe I’ll try the USB.
 
Passive DisplayPort to HDMI adapters & cables are directional, and only come in DisplayPort male to HDMI female / male. These adapters can output 4K 60 Hz only with DisplayPort 1.4 (even the older non-DSC ones can).

All existing Intel on-board graphics are DisplayPort 1.2 and can do only 4K 30 Hz with any active or passive DisplayPort to HDMI adapter. You must use the native HDMI 2.0 port on the laptop / dock for 4K 60 Hz.
Yea i just upgraded my docking station at work: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-u...product-tile_dlp_nan_5tw10ut_hp-usb-c-dock-g5.

I'm hoping those 4k60hz cables i got do the work. So far it looks a little better connecting through hdmi, and not a displayport adapter to hdmi. Returned the displayport adapter with the quickness!!!!
 
Yea i just upgraded my docking station at work: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-u...product-tile_dlp_nan_5tw10ut_hp-usb-c-dock-g5.

I'm hoping those 4k60hz cables i got do the work. So far it looks a little better connecting through hdmi, and not a displayport adapter to hdmi. Returned the displayport adapter with the quickness!!!!
Plain USB Type-c docks don't use the laptop's GPU for acceleration like a Thunderbolt or proprietary dock made for a particular laptop. They are cheap external USB display adapters with low bandwidth and terrible performance even for simple desktop applications like scrolling in the browser.

EDIT: The dock you linked supports Thunderbolt, which means it should be able to passthrough even non-Thunderbolt USB Type-C Alt Mode HDMI and DisplayPort. Ensure you connect it to a Thunderbolt / USB-C Alt Mode port on the laptop and not just any USB Type-C port.
 
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Perhaps the following is indeed what you mean by "OSD powersaving/screensaver", but for years now I always just have the power settings on all of my PCs to automatically turn off the display (or more accurately stop sending a video signal) after 10 minutes, and then usually the actual monitor or TV will similarly automatically turn off after a few minutes of recieving no signal - this would avoid the issue of the PC throwing up an error over-top of a screensaver since, unless the PC has fully locked up, it should still be able to automatically stop outputting a video signal after 10 minutes even while the error message is on-screen (and even when a PC fully locked up, if the display itself already turned off then no amount of locking up from the PC would make the screen turn back on).

My point was you can't trust a slim chance of a pc/app/os locking up or even bios on restart locking up so you'd be better off relying on the internal power saving of the tv itself in its own OSD. Random things happen like system rebooting spontaneously and stuck on bios screen. The whole OS freezing so it can't put the screen(s) into standby. Probably better off just turning it off with the remote if you're going to be away a long time.

You using the OSD of the TV on top of puttiing the screen in standby via the OS would do the trick. The reason I was messing with the Screensaver was that I occasionally get hdmi handshaking issues when displays connected by displayport to hdmi adapters attempt to wake up. From what I've read it might be an issue with the gou waking up before the display can. I thought I'd try activating a Screensaver if only going to be away a relatively short time so I wouldn't have to risk the hdmi handshaking blinking the screen a bunch of times before it gets a solid handshake/signal (which I suspect might put wear and tear on the display and backlight) and which sometimes results in getting no signal after all of the blinking.

TLDR: waking up displayport to hdmi connected screens from windows display standy can cause screen blinking on wakeup and even no signal at times so I'm prob better off just using the Tvs own Screensaver and energy saving timeout or turning it off with the remote.

Hopefully once I get an aorus gpu with 3xhdmi outs for my three screens I won't have to worry about the hdmi handshaking occasionally glitching when waking up from standby anymore.
 
I’m trying to distill all the info on this screen (here and elsewhere) down to something manageable. I’m hoping you guys can help me out. Before my screen arrives next week what (if anything) should I do as a 2080Ti owner? My understanding is I must choose two of three:
- 4K resolution
- 120 hz
- HDR

I use an HDMI 2.0 (18Gbps) cable and intend to run 4K @ 120 hz SDR. I believe that means I’ll have to settle for 4:2:0. Is that correct? If so, is that how other non-HDMI 2.1 users are running this screen? How does it look?
 
I’m trying to distill all the info on this screen (here and elsewhere) down to something manageable. I’m hoping you guys can help me out. Before my screen arrives next week what (if anything) should I do as a 2080Ti owner? My understanding is I must choose two of three:
- 4K resolution
- 120 hz
- HDR

I use an HDMI 2.0 (18Gbps) cable and intend to run 4K @ 120 hz SDR. I believe that means I’ll have to settle for 4:2:0. Is that correct? If so, is that how other non-HDMI 2.1 users are running this screen? How does it look?
That's right. 4:2:0 looks like crap on the desktop and even in games with small text. I would buy the Club3D adapter and play at HDR 4K 120 Hz RGB 10-bit without G-SYNC. Otherwise I would play at HDR 4K 60 Hz RGB 8-bit with dithering with G-SYNC, or HDR 1440p 120 Hz RGB 8-bit with dithering with G-SYNC.
 
The older OLEDs had incorrect Game mode settings and were locked in wide gamut colour, so the image was always oversaturated.

The settings I posted here for HDR (SDR is in the next post) are the only correct settings. That's how the image is supposed to look.
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/page-135#post-1044810911

Interesting. But I like pretty colours even if it is not natural and realistic. Can I keep my CX image in such a way whilst I game?

Secondly, does anybody notice some PC games are more responsive than others on the CX? For example, Gears 5 4K HDR feels to me like there is instant reaponse time and zero lag, it's buttery smooth and very desireable. Where as, Star Wars Fallen Order has a very noticeable lag to input and is very unpleasant.
 
I’m trying to distill all the info on this screen (here and elsewhere) down to something manageable. I’m hoping you guys can help me out. Before my screen arrives next week what (if anything) should I do as a 2080Ti owner? My understanding is I must choose two of three:
- 4K resolution
- 120 hz
- HDR

I use an HDMI 2.0 (18Gbps) cable and intend to run 4K @ 120 hz SDR. I believe that means I’ll have to settle for 4:2:0. Is that correct? If so, is that how other non-HDMI 2.1 users are running this screen? How does it look?
Your choices are:
  • 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 8-bit SDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
  • 4K 120 Hz 4:4:4 10-bit HDR without G-Sync using Club3D DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter (this is what I use)
  • 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 8-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
  • 4K 60 Hz 4:2:2 10-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
I would never run 4:2:0 for desktop use. https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl is a great tool for quickly switching between resolution/color depth settings.
 
Interesting. But I like pretty colours even if it is not natural and realistic. Can I keep my CX image in such a way whilst I game?

Secondly, does anybody notice some PC games are more responsive than others on the CX? For example, Gears 5 4K HDR feels to me like there is instant reaponse time and zero lag, it's buttery smooth and very desireable. Where as, Star Wars Fallen Order has a very noticeable lag to input and is very unpleasant.
That sounds like either the TV is getting switched out of game mode so has higher input lag or there is some issue with the game. I haven't played SW Fallen Order so can't say. Try the game and see if the display settings are the same as when playing Gears.
 
That sounds like either the TV is getting switched out of game mode so has higher input lag or there is some issue with the game. I haven't played SW Fallen Order so can't say. Try the game and see if the display settings are the same as when playing Gears.

I am thinking it may be the less frames I am experiencing that feels like higher input lag.

Gears 5 is running constant 120fps that could be why it feels more responsive and feels like no input lag is present.

Fallen Order and Shadows of Tomb Raider run around 60-100fps and both feel like there is some noticeable input lag.

My friend told me it is because v-sync is enabled. But i tried v-sync both enabled and disabled and could not discern much difference.

Is it correct to enable v-sync when also using g-sync?
 
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