LG 48CX

kasakka

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My dudes, i have discovered how to keep Pixel Shift turned off. Go to the Settings -> General -> Additional Settings and turn off "Quick Start+". Now the Pixel Shift button works "as intended" and keeps the setting off when power cycling the TV. Thank goodness i dont have to do that every morning anymore...

Must have something to do with the way LG makes the TV "sleep" when using the Quick Start+ option.

The caveat of this is that it takes longer for the display to start, let you change inputs etc. I kept Quick Start+ on because it works better for my usage patterns where I turn off the TV during larger breaks. At 4K 60 Hz screen shift on or off doesn't have any bearing on image quality as far as I can see.

I just hope LG simply fixes the problem because it's clearly a bug.
 

Pr0Pain

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The caveat of this is that it takes longer for the display to start, let you change inputs etc. I kept Quick Start+ on because it works better for my usage patterns where I turn off the TV during larger breaks. At 4K 60 Hz screen shift on or off doesn't have any bearing on image quality as far as I can see.

I just hope LG simply fixes the problem because it's clearly a bug.

Yes, the tv will take slighty longer to start up etc, but also consume less power :) I honestly could not tell a big difference (maybe a couple of seconds) between the setting off and on, but i have already raised a ticket with LG to make them aware that 120hz4k "breaks" the Pixel Shift option on Quick Start+.

I guess you could use the "Quick Access" buttons on your remote to switch inputs faster during startup. Long press "0" on the remote and assign your inputs to the numbers on the remote. Then, just long press the desired input number button right after turning on the tv. Should just switch to that input without you having to "wait" for the menu system to boot up from a full power-down.
 

kasakka

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I guess you could use the "Quick Access" buttons on your remote to switch inputs faster during startup. Long press "0" on the remote and assign your inputs to the numbers on the remote. Then, just long press the desired input number button right after turning on the tv. Should just switch to that input without you having to "wait" for the menu system to boot up from a full power-down.

That's a good idea, I'll have to see how well that works.
 

improwise

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I'm definitely looking at it zoom slightly when enabling/disabling, and definitely seeing no black border on any side when a full screen image (there would have to be for it to just shift the image without overscanning).

I think I understand what's going on here. When you enable/disable screen shift there is a noticable zoom in/out for some weird reason. However, this only seem to affect the overlay UI of the LG menu system, not the actual image being displayed. At least not something that I can notice even when looking really close when displaying a static PC image.
 

improwise

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My dudes, i have discovered how to keep Pixel Shift turned off. Go to the Settings -> General -> Additional Settings and turn off "Quick Start+". Now the Pixel Shift button works "as intended" and keeps the setting off when power cycling the TV. Thank goodness i dont have to do that every morning anymore...

Must have something to do with the way LG makes the TV "sleep" when using the Quick Start+ option.

Really weird, on my GX, I have not problems keeping it disabled just by disabling it the normal way.
 

lors

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Quick start+ is a mess. That was the first thing i turned off. My first rule is: Deactivate everything i don't need. Without QS+ i need 4 seconds to fire up the TV, so why does this shit even exist?
 

kasakka

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Really weird, on my GX, I have not problems keeping it disabled just by disabling it the normal way.

The settings shows up as disabled even when it is actually enabled after restarting the TV. You have to look at image quality at 4K 120 Hz to see it. There is something really wrong about how pixel shift works at that res/refresh rate because it makes the image quality blurry. Only way you can see it at 4K 60 Hz is on the desktop when it decides to cut off a bit of your taskbar.
 

mirkendargen

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I think I understand what's going on here. When you enable/disable screen shift there is a noticable zoom in/out for some weird reason. However, this only seem to affect the overlay UI of the LG menu system, not the actual image being displayed. At least not something that I can notice even when looking really close when displaying a static PC image.

I thought it was just the overlay at first too, but I tested putting the mouse cursor near (but not at) each corner of the screen and toggling it on and off. You can see the cursor move towards the corner slightly when it toggles on and away slightly when it toggles off. And it happens in all four corners, so it isn't just that it happens to be shifting the screen towards that corner at that time.
 

androsforever

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Quick start+ is a mess. That was the first thing i turned off. My first rule is: Deactivate everything i don't need. Without QS+ i need 4 seconds to fire up the TV, so why does this shit even exist?
YES! Quick start+ almost made me claim a malfunction on my b6 panel because green vertical lines were appaering everywhere on the screen. Ever since I turned off Quick start + I never got this error again, and the tv starts up just as fast.
 

Pr0Pain

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I thought it was just the overlay at first too, but I tested putting the mouse cursor near (but not at) each corner of the screen and toggling it on and off. You can see the cursor move towards the corner slightly when it toggles on and away slightly when it toggles off. And it happens in all four corners, so it isn't just that it happens to be shifting the screen towards that corner at that time.

Yeah, the manufacturers have different ways of doing it. I have a Philips OLED in the living room and the Pixel Shift on that cannot even be turned off. They move the picture 5pixel to the right and left alternating, they dont zoome the picture at all.
 

aznpotpie

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At this point I believe my Club3D CAC-1085 adapter overheats. Works fine when I boot but eventually keeps dropping out. This is with various cables also.
 

madpistol

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The CX is literally an end game display. It supports 4k120hz, HDR, VRR, Freesync, and Gsync. Not to mention a host of gamer features, and it is arguably one of the best displays for watching movies on.

I honestly think it's only true downfall in terms of specs is its aggressive ABL and limited brightness. Highlights are excellent, but full screen white is very dim.

Bring on QNED, QD-OLED, and MicroLED, but I don't expect these techs to revolutionize TVs the way OLED has. For the first time in... well, ever, this is a TV where I am literally 100% satisfied with it and am not thinking about "what could I get that's better than this?" because, truthfully, I'm not sure there is something better than this currently on the market.
 
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The CX is literally an end game display. It supports 4k120hz, HDR, VRR, Freesync, and Gsync. Not to mention a host of gamer features, and it is arguably one of the best displays for watching movies on.

I honestly think it's only true downfall in terms of specs is its aggressive ABL and limited brightness. Highlights are excellent, but full screen white is very dim.

Bring on QNED, QD-OLED, and MicroLED, but I don't expect these techs to revolutionize TVs the way OLED has. For the first time in... well, ever, this is a TV where I am literally 100% satisfied with it and am not thinking about "what could I get that's better than this?" because, truthfully, I'm not sure there is something better than this currently on the market.
Better viewing angles please.
 

Monstieur

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At this point I believe my Club3D CAC-1085 adapter overheats. Works fine when I boot but eventually keeps dropping out. This is with various cables also.
Mine doesn't drop out unless I change resolutions, and I'm using it with a cheap 3 m cable. It suffers from software glitches, and I think some of them are only with the CX.

Bring on QNED, QD-OLED, and MicroLED, but I don't expect these techs to revolutionize TVs the way OLED has. For the first time in... well, ever, this is a TV where I am literally 100% satisfied with it and am not thinking about "what could I get that's better than this?" because, truthfully, I'm not sure there is something better than this currently on the market.
Dual-layer LCD is superior, but won't be price competitive even in the consumer segment. OLED seems less complex and is already mass produced.
 
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At this point I believe my Club3D CAC-1085 adapter overheats. Works fine when I boot but eventually keeps dropping out. This is with various cables also.

Mine gets super hot but doesn't drop out. Right now it currently sitting on the floor because PQ looks much better without it. Also, not sure if its just me, but it seem to have a slight input lag when ever I play games with it. I think I'm returning it when I have time to print a return label and drop it off. Unless theirs a firmware update to solve the issues or one of you guys find a viable settings to make it work.
 
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Better viewing angles than OLED?
Yep, cannot match off angle white field purity of a good IPS. Center hue is noticeably warmer than sides. It's a viewing angle issue since moving your heard moves the warm area around, posted earlier on this thread. I am sitting about 100 cm away from the screen for reference.
 

mirkendargen

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Yep, cannot match off angle white field purity of a good IPS. Center hue is noticeably warmer than sides. It's a viewing angle issue since moving your heard moves the warm area around, posted earlier on this thread. I am sitting about 100 cm away from the screen for reference.

Yeah I can confirm this is a thing, but it is pretty slight and doesn't get progressively worse the more off center you are, so OLED is still far superior for TV purposes when seating requires some people to be significantly off center. Sitting close to a big screen as a monitor, yeah you can see it if you look for it on a solid white screen.
 

MistaSparkul

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Yeah I can confirm this is a thing, but it is pretty slight and doesn't get progressively worse the more off center you are, so OLED is still far superior for TV purposes when seating requires some people to be significantly off center. Sitting close to a big screen as a monitor, yeah you can see it if you look for it on a solid white screen.

Unless you are working with spreadsheets and such which have lots of white backgrounds, this is pretty much a none issue. If you are the type of person who would actually notice color shifting while playing games/watching movies and it bothers you so much you'd rather use an IPS instead, meh I feel bad for you then.
 

elvn

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The CX is literally an end game display. It supports 4k120hz, HDR, VRR, Freesync, and Gsync. Not to mention a host of gamer features, and it is arguably one of the best displays for watching movies on.

I honestly think it's only true downfall in terms of specs is its aggressive ABL and limited brightness. Highlights are excellent, but full screen white is very dim.

Bring on QNED, QD-OLED, and MicroLED, but I don't expect these techs to revolutionize TVs the way OLED has. For the first time in... well, ever, this is a TV where I am literally 100% satisfied with it and am not thinking about "what could I get that's better than this?" because, truthfully, I'm not sure there is something better than this currently on the market.
There will be a few to a handful of display gens before AR~mixed reality glasses start to overtake monitors - and overtake phones and tablets which should make staring at a slate like slab of a phone or tablet in your hand look primitive in retrospect. It will be awhile yet, sure... display tech doesn't always advance as quickly as we'd like. Outside of the pc/gpu power tethered facet, VR is in the adolescent console stages in some ways. Past atari and snes, somewhere between n64 and the first xbox with their jumbo interfaces due to resolution limitations. Also the form factors so far. You can see where it is all headed though, pun intended.

I don't think you can reasonably argue against the idea that VR and AR~mixed reality, virtual screens and readouts, assistants, etc... are the future of display tech, and that they are definitely the future of "3d" experiences. It should take over just like having computers in your home did, laptops that used to be bulky $7500 monsters became mainstream for $400 - $1500 and also cellphones then smartphones and tablets.
 
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TwistedMetalGear

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Anyone know how many inches this tv sits forward from the back of the stand? Trying to figure out how close to my face it will be assuming I align the back edge of the stand with the back edge of my desk.
 

elvn

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I honestly think it's only true downfall in terms of specs is its aggressive ABL and limited brightness. Highlights are excellent, but full screen white is very dim.

I realize that you are talking about it overall, in relation to ABL (even even % screen brightnesses outside of ABL) in games and movies and HDR color volume, but in regard to desktop usage scenarios...

I use dark themes, 3rd party file manager, 3rd party text app, firefox/chrome addons, etc. There are defaults but if you really want the best results it takes a little tinkering to get it set up at first. Wherever possible I choose apps that support that kind of thing. There are a few apps that still stubbornly stick to white backgrounds regardless of my windows themeing/high contrast editing but those are very few. You can also set up different named settings on TVs in order to use dimmer (or in the case of OLED, those RTINGS quoted ABL avoiding) settings when working with text.

Out of curiosity, what apps are people using that force them to stick to bright backgrounds? I can see where video editing or image editing would be a problem but text based stuff should be able to use dark themed settings.

Unless you are working with spreadsheets and such which have lots of white backgrounds, this is pretty much a none issue. If you are the type of person who would actually notice color shifting while playing games/watching movies and it bothers you so much you'd rather use an IPS instead, meh I feel bad for you then.

I see an OLED TV at a PC as a media and gaming "stage". A stage that I will be a front and center audience member of and at a proper viewing distance - so to me sitting off to the sides (or sitting too close with my nose up against the screen and seeing shift at the extents) is a non issue. I wouldn't use this as a static "office" or scripting/text entry/reading based display at all personally.

Since my peripheral island desk is separate from my monitors along with the fact that the desk island and my chair are all on large rollerblade-style caster wheels, I can face whatever monitor I want if I'm going to be doing enough dedicated keyboard entry, image editing, or reading that I want to align myself in front of that display and aslant from the gaming monitor rather than it being straight ahead of me. If a 15 to 30 degree rotation from the center OLED at 48" away shifts the colors slightly I can deal with it since I'd only be doing this if really concentrating on an app for traditional monitor use for a considerable time.

My LG 32gk850G gaming display has way worse uniformity right in front of me than either of my 4k VA tvs (though being edge lit they wouldn't ever be 100% uniform even outside of VA shift or viewing angles). At the 1.5 - 2' away I had it set up at when I got it, the 32" gaming display's worse uniformity was very obvious in full screen art/photos that had solid fields of bright color but in gaming it was usually negligible if not focusing on it. Since I'm now viewing it from farther way than when I got it, the shift is less obvious in the same test photos. It's mostly apparent like a darker gradient edge on the right and left end of the screen on solid bright backgrounds, almost like a light shadow when you look for it on bright solid background still photos. I'm mentioning this because for things like that, viewing distance (and not just viewing angle) is important - because when you sit too close in relation to screen size your view becomes angled to the periphery more than "normal" so it exacerbates the issue.

I can't imagine ever using a TN or IPS with their 860:1 to 1100:1 contrasts and accompanying poor black depths and detail-in-blacks. (At least not an IPS without a dense FALD array or Dual-LCD backlighting with huge contrast+black depth, detail-in-blacks numbers). My whole desktop array is VA screens already. I'm looking forward to an oled in november and I'm learning a lot from this thread in the meantime. It should be 1000% better than my VA gaming monitor.
 
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Monstieur

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Unless theirs a firmware update to solve the issues or one of you guys find a viable settings to make it work.
It works fine at 4K 120 Hz 10-bit YCbCr422. RGB is also fine if you have a CX and use the HDMI Signalling Override menu to force BT.2020. Use Borderless Window mode to avoid resolution changes. In Windows 10, the performance is equivalent to fullscreen exclusive mode, and it has no additional latency.
 
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It works fine at 4K 120 Hz 10-bit YCbCr422. RGB is also fine if you have a CX and use the HDMI Signalling Override menu to force BT.2020. Use Borderless Window mode to avoid resolution changes. In Windows 10, the performance is equivalent to fullscreen exclusive mode, and it has no additional latency.

OK....Will try it and see how it goes.....

update: forced BT.2020. ......why the colors are over saturated? looks like older Samung OLED phones....

update2: nope ...back on the floor. Image just doesn't look as sharp...
 
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gamerk2

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It works fine at 4K 120 Hz 10-bit YCbCr422. RGB is also fine if you have a CX and use the HDMI Signalling Override menu to force BT.2020. Use Borderless Window mode to avoid resolution changes. In Windows 10, the performance is equivalent to fullscreen exclusive mode, and it has no additional latency.

I guess my question on this point is why you have to use the signal override when using RGB?
 

Monstieur

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OK....Will try it and see how it goes.....

update: forced BT.2020. ......why the colors are over saturated? looks like older Samung OLED phones....

update2: nope ...back on the floor. Image just doesn't look as sharp...
HDR needs to be switched on in Windows. There is no reason to ever switch off HDR in Windows - any excuses people give are false.

I guess my question on this point is why you have to use the signal override when using RGB?
The issue is the adapter doesn't send the BT.2020 colour space in the metadata when switching on HDR. It sends the colour space reliably every time only in 10-bit YCbCr422 mode.
 

gamerk2

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HDR needs to be switched on in Windows. There is no reason to ever switch off HDR in Windows - any excuses people give are false.

There's a known bug where OSD popups (volume bar, XBOX party chat, etc) causes the video output to briefly go back to SDR then back to HDR again, causing the screen to blank when it occurs. If you happen to play CoD, that's a death sentence. At least me for, I can now confirm the issues remains as of Win10 2004 using a 1080Ti with latest drivers.

So in my case? I leave HDR off since it's basically unusable.
 
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I keep having an issue where I exit a game and get a black screen. I can’t do anything but reboot the PC to get a picture back. TV still works menus and all. But nothing from the PC, till reboot. Let it sit a few minutes and still nothing.
 

kasakka

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I keep having an issue where I exit a game and get a black screen. I can’t do anything but reboot the PC to get a picture back. TV still works menus and all. But nothing from the PC, till reboot. Let it sit a few minutes and still nothing.

That sounds more like a GPU issue. Check Windows Event Viewer if the display driver crashes for example. Try reinstalling drivers.
 
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That sounds more like a GPU issue. Check Windows Event Viewer if the display driver crashes for example. Try reinstalling drivers.

I would say that , but issue didn’t start happing till I got the 48CX. Had 3 different monitors and TVs with it, with no issues.
 

Monstieur

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Calibration is a excuse now?
Calibrate it for BT.2020 with HDR on and use that mode for all PC content. The TV switches to wide gamut mode even when you calibrate it in SDR mode, so you will be remapping BT.709 to WCG anyway when playing SDR content. You might as well remap to BT.2020 in HDR mode.

There's a known bug where OSD popups (volume bar, XBOX party chat, etc) causes the video output to briefly go back to SDR then back to HDR again, causing the screen to blank when it occurs. If you happen to play CoD, that's a death sentence. At least me for, I can now confirm the issues remains as of Win10 2004 using a 1080Ti with latest drivers.

So in my case? I leave HDR off since it's basically unusable.
That's not a bug - use Borderless Window mode. The overlay colour issue in HDR happens because Windows 10 automatically converts Fullscreen Exclusive games to run in Borderless Window mode, but the games think they're running in exclusive mode and are incompatible with the overlay. The performance has been identical in Borderless Window mode for some time now, and there is no added latency (until the overlay appears which adds an additional frame). When there is no overlay, the game bypasses the desktop compositor completely.
 
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kalston

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I thought HDR in games only works in exclusive fullscreen and not borderless windowed mode?

Can probably make it work in borderless if you use Windows HDR mode, I haven't tried.

I think there is some confusion here though. Fullscreen optimizations turn fullscreen (let's call it exclusive, to be clear) into a better borderless mode that has no (or hardly measurable) performance loss and bypasses DWM (and allows overlays, instant alt tabbing etc.). Regular borderless/windowed still goes through DWM - with a few exceptions, some games appear able to bypass it in windowed mode but they are the exception, not the rule, for now at least.

If you enable g-sync for windowed apps, you can actually bypass DWM for every single game and get rid of the input lag (because DWM applies a form of fast-sync otherwise) however there is still a tiny performance penalty vs true fullscreen (let's say 3-5% but it really depends on the game and your rig). https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/10/
 
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gamerk2

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That's not a bug - use Borderless Window mode. The overlay colour issue in HDR happens because Windows 10 automatically converts Fullscreen Exclusive games to run in Borderless Window mode, but the games think they're running in exclusive mode and are incompatible with the overlay. The performance has been identical in Borderless Window mode for some time now, and there is no added latency (until the overlay appears which adds an additional frame). When there is no overlay, the game bypasses the desktop compositor completely.

Running the game in question in Borderless Window, issue remains. Even tried using Window mode + Borderless Gaming with the same result. Now, it's quite possible that game's implementation is bugged, but that's where I'm at for the moment.
 
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