LG 48CX

gamerk2

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Hey all, apologies if this has already been discussed in the thread, but can anyone who has successfully used LG OLEDs as PC displays post the settings / best practices they put to use? (ie, contrast, brightness, OLED light, etc.). Also, is it best practice to use the "PC Input" for the HDMI port being used? I've seen mixed opinions on this.

I have a 48CX arriving either tomorrow or Monday from B&H and am preparing my desktop to use it as a primary display with flanking 27" 4K LG IPS displays in portrait. I am using buttery taskbar, PowerToys (for FancyZones and PowerToys Run), black desktop, hidden desktop icons, and a blank screensaver on 1 minute timer. This will be running off a 2080Ti (3xxx when they are released).

One last thing: is it best practice to turn off "put display to sleep after XX minutes" for the OLED and just turn it off at the end of the day? From what I've read this can be good because because you're more likely to use the display for 4+ hours at a time, which then forces a compensation cycle when powered off... Is this true/effective?

Thanks for the advice!
As a B6 owner who's used it as primarily a PC monitor for about 3 years now:

Keep the OLED light to about 30-40; that's what will cause most burn-in issues. [Remember that HDR and SDR are separate picture modes and need this setting set for each.]

Have a low monitor turn-off/screensaver time. I have mine set to 15 minutes; better safe then sorry.

For the love of god, minimize the Windows taskbar. This is the step I missed, and combined with an OLED light set to 80 and 2.5 years, resulted in the taskbar starting to burn in. [I play a lot of games in a fullscreen-window that keeps the taskbar up; that's what screwed me]

Aside from that, get in the habit of turning off the set when not in use.

I've played a lot of games with static elements for hours at a time without issue; it's really long-term wear you need to worry about. As long as you keep the OLED light to about 40 and aren't constantly showing the same elements (like my Taskbar :/) you should be fine.
 

gamerk2

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That’s a tough one. 4:2:0 makes me feel like I’m going blind due to the color fringing but I do love smoother frame rates even for desktop use. I use my rog swift for high precision stuff off to the right and keep my larger screen at 60hz personally but it’s going to be a “whatever works best for you” until the new cards are out. Imagine if the new cards don’t support full bandwidth 2.1 though, I’d be pretty upset.
One of the rumors is that AMD/NVIDIA are only initially supporting 40GBPs, which is why the X series only supports up to that.

But yeah, GPU makers are the holdup at this point.
 

gamerk2

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Yep did so and it changed nothing. Meh oh well it's not a deal breaker by any means. Just weird that I turn the shifting off and it still does it.
If it's anything like my B6, it's a separate setting you can disable in the dev menu for the TV. Slightly annoying it's still hidden in there if thats the case.

There was a phone app you could purchase for like $2 that would give access to the TVs dev menu; that's how I disabled the Pixel Shifter on my B6.
 

lunchtime

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As a B6 owner who's used it as primarily a PC monitor for about 3 years now:

Keep the OLED light to about 30-40; that's what will cause most burn-in issues. [Remember that HDR and SDR are separate picture modes and need this setting set for each.]

Have a low monitor turn-off/screensaver time. I have mine set to 15 minutes; better safe then sorry.

For the love of god, minimize the Windows taskbar. This is the step I missed, and combined with an OLED light set to 80 and 2.5 years, resulted in the taskbar starting to burn in. [I play a lot of games in a fullscreen-window that keeps the taskbar up; that's what screwed me]

Aside from that, get in the habit of turning off the set when not in use.

I've played a lot of games with static elements for hours at a time without issue; it's really long-term wear you need to worry about. As long as you keep the OLED light to about 40 and aren't constantly showing the same elements (like my Taskbar :/) you should be fine.
So you would use OLED light to 40 even on HDR content? Right now I have my OLED light set to 40 when I'm just working / browsing the web and such in SDR.. But if I go to game or watch HDR content, I'll switch to an HDR profile that uses 100 OLED light as it seems like that's what the display needs/likes to display HDR content properly?

I'm with you on everything here.. My current setup has a completely black screen when nothing is on it (no icons, no taskbar, black background). But you recommend putting it to sleep via the remote when stepping away for a bit? Not just letting it go to a blank screensaver?
 

lunchtime

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You can set it in game mode, but you can't set it with instant game response on.
So wait, is BFI "superior" to GSYNC while gaming? I noticed this the other night while tinkering--that I can't enable OLED Motion Pro while GSYNC is active.. But GSYNC is so nice that I kind of don't want to disable it 😆
 

kasakka

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As a B6 owner who's used it as primarily a PC monitor for about 3 years now:

Keep the OLED light to about 30-40; that's what will cause most burn-in issues. [Remember that HDR and SDR are separate picture modes and need this setting set for each.]

Have a low monitor turn-off/screensaver time. I have mine set to 15 minutes; better safe then sorry.

For the love of god, minimize the Windows taskbar. This is the step I missed, and combined with an OLED light set to 80 and 2.5 years, resulted in the taskbar starting to burn in. [I play a lot of games in a fullscreen-window that keeps the taskbar up; that's what screwed me]

Aside from that, get in the habit of turning off the set when not in use.

I've played a lot of games with static elements for hours at a time without issue; it's really long-term wear you need to worry about. As long as you keep the OLED light to about 40 and aren't constantly showing the same elements (like my Taskbar :/) you should be fine.
Sounds like I am doing all the right things at this point, though I disagree about setting the OLED light at anything but 100 for HDR. It would compromise its highlights and you aren't going to use this mode in anything but games and videos so it's fine there. For SDR 30-40 seems like a good spot.

Also if you happen to use MacOS, there are options to autohide the top bar as well as the dock.
 

kasakka

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So wait, is BFI "superior" to GSYNC while gaming? I noticed this the other night while tinkering--that I can't enable OLED Motion Pro while GSYNC is active.. But GSYNC is so nice that I kind of don't want to disable it 😆
"Different" would be a more apt description. BFI will improve motion clarity, G-Sync will help with smoothness, tearing and input lag. I would recommend BFI for fast paced shooters where you can maintain high fps at all times and G-Sync for anything else.
 

Lateralus

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Great info here guys, it's exciting getting all of this figured out. I remember everyone doing the same in 2015 for the Samsung 4K TVs and it's fun seeing everyone figure out preferred settings for different scenarios.
 
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Jctricky

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I have the 55 inc since 3 weeks and i am very happy.
I have tested in 120 hertz and gsync works fine but not hte hdr...
In 120 hertz it s very responsive
But with the ubisoft games like far cry hdr works in 4k @ 120.
I have a 9900k and 2080ti.
I have a question, do you think with the next gpu we will be able to have 4k @ 120 with full chroma sampling 4.4.4
Also do you thinks this tv will be DSC compatible in the near future with an update ?
 

elvn

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Sounds like I am doing all the right things at this point, though I disagree about setting the OLED light at anything but 100 for HDR. It would compromise its highlights and you aren't going to use this mode in anything but games and videos so it's fine there. For SDR 30-40 seems like a good spot.

Also if you happen to use MacOS, there are options to autohide the top bar as well as the dock.
From reading replies I think you can set more than one profile of named settings even on the same input, so if it's like most TV's you could set one profile for HDR and one for SDR (with settings to avoid ABL). I set profiles for day, dim, night/blacked out, detailed-darks for overly dark esp. compressed material, saturated/animation/anime etc with different paremeters on my vizio tv for example. An oled's contrast, black levels and detail in blacks would make at least one of my extra profiles if not two moot though. :cool:

I agree about the brightness especially with HDR. The brightness in HDR is the color brightness heights, not a relative brightness that cranks the whole scene up like SDR does. The brightness ceiling in HDR still has most of the scene kept in the SDR range, since it is using absolute values. Cutting the HDR (color) brightness would limit how many bright colors you can see, lowering the color volume to use a more precise term. OLED is already somewhat limited in it's peak color volume as it is but compared to fald dim/glow halo balance it's per pixel contrast is still a better result overall.
 

kasakka

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From reading replies I think you can set more than one profile of named settings even on the same input, so if it's like most TV's you could set one profile for HDR and one for SDR (with settings to avoid ABL). I set profiles for day, dim, night/blacked out, detailed-darks for overly dark esp. compressed material, saturated/animation/anime etc with different paremeters on my vizio tv for example. An oled's contrast, black levels and detail in blacks would make at least one of my extra profiles if not two moot though. :cool:
You can indeed set different settings for every profile on every input. There are also separate profiles for HDR. You can also set the same settings for all inputs so you don't have to do them one by one. The difference is that the Game mode setting seems to always have an input lag advantage so using that for gaming purposes would be best. That means having for example a separate profile with BFI enabled is not so easy but at least it's reasonably quick to set.
 
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I think it's both the weight and width of the G9. I have a Multibrackets monitor arm rated for I think 21 kg and yeah, it can carry my CRG9 just fine..except for the tilt. It will sag unless I really crank the tilt screws to the max. On the same arm the CX 48" had the exact same issue but not as bad. It was still a two person job to get it to the right angle - one to hold it in place and one to crank the tilt screws. The Ergotron HX should have a far beefier setup on its tilt afaik.
Unfortunately, the ergotron HX can carry the G9 just fine also...just not the tilt, so same issue as your multibrackets. The only other option is the Humanscale M10, which they did an update to...however the M10 is ridiculously expensive.
 

mirkendargen

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You can indeed set different settings for every profile on every input. There are also separate profiles for HDR. You can also set the same settings for all inputs so you don't have to do them one by one. The difference is that the Game mode setting seems to always have an input lag advantage so using that for gaming purposes would be best. That means having for example a separate profile with BFI enabled is not so easy but at least it's reasonably quick to set.
Correct. You don't have to switch profiles when turning on HDR, each profile has seperate settings for SDR and HDR.
 

l88bastard

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So how is it compare to the AW5520QF? Like color wise and image quality?
The AW55 has displayport so it natively handles 4k120 Full RGB + VRR and I have had it for close to 9 months, which means I am so spoiled by it that I have forgotten how horrid LCDs were lol.

At 40" seating distance the AW55 @4k120 RGB is sharpter / crisper on the eyes for desktop work vs the 48CX @ 4k120 420. However, @ 40" the 48cx is more comfortable on the neck!

Because the AW55 can handle full RGB 4k120hz its still currently the king for high refresh rate picture quality.
However, the 48CX is more "future proof" once Hdmi 2.1 cards drop.

Also, the 48CX does BFI really, really well which is important to me as I love to play some games in BFI.

Other things of note, the AW55 picture is not as bright as the CX's however, it also does not suffer from any of the auto dimness bs that the LGs have. Also, the AW55 is a monitor so it more naturally works in tandem with your computer, ie powers off when you turn the computer off and powers on when you turn computer on. With the CX you always have to use the remote.

I would like to keep my AW55 for flight & racing sims, but I just don't have the space (or time!) thus have it listed for sale. I'm prepared to give a generous price on the AW55 for the right local buyer because my wife is up my ass with all these oleds around lol (see my 4sale in the classifieds) :)

You cannot set true motion in game mode?... or how did you do this?
BFI on the 48CX is crazy good! Its the best I have ever seen and now I can throw away my old FW900!
I like to play old SDR games like GTA 4 & 5, Battlefield 4, Titanfall 2, etc, etc in BFI mode as the 2080ti
is able to handle steady 120fps.....motion clarity is gorgeous and picture is plenty bright (I run OLED light @ 100 & brightness @ 60).

UPDATE ON MY LOST 48CX FEDEX:
Well fedex was able to miraculously "find" my delivered but not really delivered 48CX. They have it sitting in the local warehouse and when I called them this morning they tried to tell me that I had to contact Beach Camera and have them "release" it from the local warehouse for delivery....WTF....I told FEDEX, no thanks RETURN that bitch to SENDER as I have taken matters into my own hands and purchased a second one locally.

I called Beach to let them know its coming back, RERTURN TO SENDER, NO SUCH NUMBER, NO SUCH PERSON, ADDRESS UNKNOWN.....and they tried to cut a discount deal to get me to change my mind....however, as much as I would LOVE a spare 48CX, I like having my testicles attached to my body more as my wife is half native american and skilled with blades.
 
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joeh_1974

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So, what is the consensus on using this as a PC monitor? I believe LG had a Nvidia hooked up to the TV during the January CES, and the 48" model is being aimed and marketed towards the PC gaming crowd.

I've always owned either IPS or VA panels in the past, and everything I've read about using OLED as a dedicated PC display gives me apprehension about burn in. Has progress been made in this area that using this for a PC monitor is now safer? I'm really looking hard at ordering one, but it would truely be a PC display first and foremost, with it also being used for PC gaming and 4k movies.
 

lunchtime

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So, what is the consensus on using this as a PC monitor? I believe LG had a Nvidia hooked up to the TV during the January CES, and the 48" model is being aimed and marketed towards the PC gaming crowd.

I've always owned either IPS or VA panels in the past, and everything I've read about using OLED as a dedicated PC display gives me apprehension about burn in. Has progress been made in this area that using this for a PC monitor is now safer? I'm really looking hard at ordering one, but it would truely be a PC display first and foremost, with it also being used for PC gaming and 4k movies.
With the latest OLED technology, I think that as long as you're using the set in a varied manner and taking some basic precautions, you should never have any issues with burn-in unless you have some sort of lemon.
  • hide taskbar (use buttery taskbar to COMPLETELY remove it (ie, also get rid of that last pixel or two))
  • hide desktop icons
  • black desktop background (or moving/alternating desktop background)
  • blank(black) screensaver that activates after a short period of time
  • set OLED light to sometihng reasonable (40-60) when not watching HDR content or gaming
  • perhaps use dark mode apps / modes to reduce the amount of pure white / light grey blasting the OLED
It sounds like a lot, but I've had the display one day and just started putting these things into practice and it already feels "natural"..
 

mirkendargen

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So, what is the consensus on using this as a PC monitor? I believe LG had a Nvidia hooked up to the TV during the January CES, and the 48" model is being aimed and marketed towards the PC gaming crowd.

I've always owned either IPS or VA panels in the past, and everything I've read about using OLED as a dedicated PC display gives me apprehension about burn in. Has progress been made in this area that using this for a PC monitor is now safer? I'm really looking hard at ordering one, but it would truely be a PC display first and foremost, with it also being used for PC gaming and 4k movies.
I suspect burn-in is a non-issue with proper precautions. I'm hiding the taskbar, having a black background, not having desktop icons, etc. I'm doing office work on it (still pandemic WFH) and I have OLED light set to 20 with light shining directly on it from a window and I have no issues reading text. I think the people getting burn-in are rocking 100 OLED light and burning the taskbar and desktop icons into their retinas, not just the screen.
 

elvn

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you can also use transparent taskbar and set the taskbar to auto hide. I also use "Taskbar hider" which lets me set the show/hide as a toggle hotkey instead of relying on mouseovers.
With the latest OLED technology, I think that as long as you're using the set in a varied manner and taking some basic precautions, you should never have any issues with burn-in unless you have some sort of lemon.
  • hide taskbar (use buttery taskbar to COMPLETELY remove it (ie, also get rid of that last pixel or two))
  • hide desktop icons
  • black desktop background (or moving/alternating desktop background)
  • blank(black) screensaver that activates after a short period of time
  • set OLED light to sometihng reasonable (40-60) when not watching HDR content or gaming
  • perhaps use dark mode apps / modes to reduce the amount of pure white / light grey blasting the OLED
It sounds like a lot, but I've had the display one day and just started putting these things into practice and it already feels "natural"..
These also work. I use them on my VA LCDs even because I prefer it that way:

after I installed theTransluscent Taskbar app (TranslucentTB) awhile ago and set my taskbar to hide, being 100% see-through it doesn't leave the taskbar sliver anymore. As long as the icons are hidden there is nothing static in the taskbar area at all.

TransluscentTB - Microsoft store


You can also install Taskbar Hider to always hide the taskbar and show/hide toggle it with a custom hotkey.

http://www.itsamples.com/taskbar-hider.html

A few things I found out with taskbar hider after experimenting with it:

-You have to close and restart the app in the system tray if you change the hotkey for the new hotkey to work
-If you have windows set to hide the taskbar automatically ("hide taskbar in desktop mode"), the taskbar hider app only works as a "lock" on the taskbar state. E.g. hiding the taskbar even on mouseovers until you hit the hotkey to unlock it again.
-If you have windows "hide taskbar in desktop mode" turned off, the taskbar hider app's hotkey acts as a toggle, showing or hiding the taskbar. It stays locked in either position until the hotkey is hit again.
-unlike when your taskbar is hidden normally, hitting the windows key to bring up the windows menu does not "wake up" and show the taskbar anymore. Thats a good thing to me.
-you can still just alt+tab / shit+alt+tab(reverse), ctrl-alt-tab (leaves open apps selection window open even after keys are released), and win+tab opens tiles of all open apps on all monitors to choose from, so unless you are launching an app from the taskbar or using right click on it's icon you could just keep the taskbar hidden more often.
-there is about a 1 to 2 second delay on bringing the taskbar up but I haven't found that bothersome. It hides pretty instantaneously.
-It can show/hide the windows taskbar on all monitors in the array if you run it in admin mode
- It obviously doesn't work with the displayfusion pro taskbars on other monitors but displayfusion has it's own hotkeys and functions if you need that.

I set my taskbar hider app's hotkey to ctrl + shit + Z since I'm unlikely to use mod keys with z in a game much, and Z is on the bottom of the keyboard sort of so it seems to fit there. I could set it to a streamdeck key but that wouldn't be as quick.
 

gamerk2

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So you would use OLED light to 40 even on HDR content? Right now I have my OLED light set to 40 when I'm just working / browsing the web and such in SDR.. But if I go to game or watch HDR content, I'll switch to an HDR profile that uses 100 OLED light as it seems like that's what the display needs/likes to display HDR content properly?

I'm with you on everything here.. My current setup has a completely black screen when nothing is on it (no icons, no taskbar, black background). But you recommend putting it to sleep via the remote when stepping away for a bit? Not just letting it go to a blank screensaver?
Right now I don't use any HDR content, since HDR on Windows is a mess. Example, I get a PM from my buddies on the xbox side, Windows forces SDR for a moment. Same if I touch the volume. The issues been known since the earliest HDR implementation, and Microsoft has yet to fix it. :/
 

lors

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Other things of note, the AW55 picture is not as bright as the CX's however, it also does not suffer from any of the auto dimness bs that the LGs have.
When does auto dimming happen? I just surfed two hours through the web, reading stuff, watching youtube etc. With OLED light to 40 and contrast to 85 in game picture mode and i did not notice any kind of dimming on my 65C9. Should be the same for the CX. Sidenote: I'm using dark reader extension for chrome.
 

MistaSparkul

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When does auto dimming happen? I just surfed two hours through the web, reading stuff, watching youtube etc. With OLED light to 40 and contrast to 85 in game picture mode and i did not notice any kind of dimming on my 65C9. Should be the same for the CX. Sidenote: I'm using dark reader extension for chrome.
If you are using OLED light at 40 then you should never encounter any sort of ABL as the total screen brightness will be below the threshold to trigger it. I use my TV in a pitch black room so I keep my OLED light at 25 and it's bright enough for me, heck OLED's "relatively low" HDR brightness is more than enough to scorch my eyeballs given that I have no ambient lighting.
 

elvn

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I suspect burn-in is a non-issue with proper precautions. I'm hiding the taskbar, having a black background, not having desktop icons, etc. I'm doing office work on it (still pandemic WFH) and I have OLED light set to 20 with light shining directly on it from a window and I have no issues reading text. I think the people getting burn-in are rocking 100 OLED light and burning the taskbar and desktop icons into their retinas, not just the screen.
I'd definitely use the black background with no icons and transparent taskbar with hidden icon, OSD based screen saver / power saver (in case PC or game/app locks up) etc. Personally I am only using an OLED for media and games, slideshows, etc. I am going to use other monitors for static desktop and apps.

Even so, some people play the same game for marathon hours (e.g. WoW, MOBAs, their favorite shooter) and pretty much only put time into that game.. so I'd think it could happen from huds over time if you were very unlucky. The fact that OLED's have ABL limits, much lower % window limits of brigthness to start with compared to high end FALD LCDs, pixel shifting, and that they can run a pixel wear evening maintenance program in standby mode should lower the risk by a lot.



=================
One thing I dont really get is ABL, is its purpose to protect the panel or the pixels? Reason for asking is that if I have 50% white and 50% black side by side, I won't get ABL, but if I put up 100% white I will. Now, if the purpose was to prevent burn in and preserve the pixels, wouldn't the 50% pixels be just as affected regardless of if the other 50% is black? Or it some kind of overheating protection for the whole panel?
The screen is already limited in what it can output and for how long.

RTings LG CX review:

349274_cHF7tlL.png

In the 50%/50% scenario you outlined the HDR peak would be 302nit (which is SDR range of brightness). Sustained 50% window would be even lower at 287nit.

You can see that the 100% sustained window drops to the ABL kick-on limit of 140nit.
OLED have organics and are subject to heat aging them prematurely. I think of an analogy like oled is some kind of glassware that can take flares of stovetop burner heat but not sustained. The idea is to keep it on simmer with some crackling flame flares on the HDR highlights without blasting the whole bottom of the pan with flame and for too long.

The heat issue makes me consider that I'd probably have to re-arrange my whole living room setup if I ever replace my FALD LCD TV in the living room with a big OLED TV. Currently the back of the big tv is to the big picture window in the room, so it gets direct sunlight if the vertical blinds are open. I'd also consider what running an oled in un-air conditioned environments in the summer might do. My living room is 76F right now but my pc room is 83F. The PC room is on the sunny side in the morning and the living room gets hit later in the day. I have some fans cycling the PC room heat out as of just now but throughout the summer it will be air conditioned 24/7 pretty much.

Like others have said, some hot running displays have thicker chasis with fans inside. The panasonic oled tvs availabile in the UK put a whole metal backplane on their oleds internally as a heatsink. This reportedly allows them to run cooler and thus brighter vs burn in limitations.
------------------------------------------------

According to RTings CX review, the CX has aggressive ABL like the C9, E9.
"The CX has decent HDR peak brightness, enough to bring out highlights in HDR. There's quite a bit of variation when displaying different content, and it gets the least bright with large areas, which is caused by the aggressive ABL. "
That is how it is with HDR.
With SDR, there is a Peak Brightness Setting. Since it limits the peak brightness it doesn't seem compatible with HDR.
View attachment 258782
From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."
 

lors

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If you are using OLED light at 40 then you should never encounter any sort of ABL as the total screen brightness will be below the threshold to trigger it. I use my TV in a pitch black room so I keep my OLED light at 25 and it's bright enough for me, heck OLED's "relatively low" HDR brightness is more than enough to scorch my eyeballs given that I have no ambient lighting.
Exactly, and even lower brightness settings like going down to 40 are completely fine for seeing everything, even in bright rooms. Then there is also no ABL. I also would go further down with oled light in a dark room. 25 sounds reasonable.
 

MistaSparkul

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Exactly, and even lower brightness settings like going down to 40 are completely fine for seeing everything, even in bright rooms. Then there is also no ABL. I also would go further down with oled light in a dark room. 25 sounds reasonable.
Yeah I mean OLED really flexes it's muscles in a dark room. It seems like all the disappointment is coming from people who are using them in very bright rooms where it just doesn't have enough brightness to overcome the ambient lighting. If you always plan to use your TV in a very bright room then a high end LCD with a buttload of brightness is almost certainly going to be the better choice for you.
 

l88bastard

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You cannot set true motion in game mode?... or how did you do this?
BFI on the 48CX is crazy good! Its the best I have ever seen and now I can throw away my old FW900!
I like to play old SDR games like GTA 4 & 5, Battlefield 4, Titanfall 2, etc, etc in BFI mode as the 2080ti
is able to handle steady 120fps.....motion clarity is gorgeous and picture is plenty bright (I run OLED light @ 100 & brightness @ 60).
When does auto dimming happen? I just surfed two hours through the web, reading stuff, watching youtube etc. With OLED light to 40 and contrast to 85 in game picture mode and i did not notice any kind of dimming on my 65C9. Should be the same for the CX. Sidenote: I'm using dark reader extension for chrome.
LOL oled set to 40, you may as well turn it off! Seriously though, a 65" with the OLED light set to 40 is not the same as a 48" because the 65" has way more screen surface area to put out that light. I find myself running 50-80 OLED light depending on application and have seen BSL kick in....especially if i'm watching a really long pron and my hands are in my pants and not manipulating the mouse for a while.

Yeah I mean OLED really flexes it's muscles in a dark room. It seems like all the disappointment is coming from people who are using them in very bright rooms where it just doesn't have enough brightness to overcome the ambient lighting. If you always plan to use your TV in a very bright room then a high end LCD with a buttload of brightness is almost certainly going to be the better choice for you.
The 48cx is plenty bright, even in a full ambient bright room....even with BFI enabled....its fine. The days of overly dim OLED are over.
 

Armenius

Fully [H]
Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
22,822
For real...I squint at white text with HDR turned on at 100 OLED light... I can't imagine someone blasting that shit at 1500+ nit
HDR is about the small highlights, not full screen brightness. We're talking about the sun in a first-person game having the same kind of intensity as in the real world being the target in HDR content. If HDR was mastered correctly in the media you're viewing then any text should not be presented any brighter than it would normally be in SDR.
 

SoCali

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Messages
86
The full field ABL is actually something I really like about OLED's especially as a monitor. I had a x930e that would do 800Nits full screen white and it was unbearable with how frequent something like that occurs in game.

With the OLED those blinding full field screens go down to 120nits.
 

lors

n00b
Joined
May 23, 2020
Messages
34
The full field ABL is actually something I really like about OLED's especially as a monitor. I had a x930e that would do 800Nits full screen white and it was unbearable with how frequent something like that occurs in game.

With the OLED those blinding full field screens go down to 120nits.
Games behaving different than fullscreen white webpages. I haven't actually seen ABL even at scenes like this with maximum OLED light and contrast in SDR.
 

Monstieur

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 10, 2011
Messages
243
BFI set to High works great with a native 120 Hz input. There is no flickering like with a 60 Hz input, which is what all the reviewers tested. At 120 Hz, the moving image on TestUFO looks identical to the stationary image! At Low and Medium the improvement with BFI is negligible and I'll take G-SYNC instead.
 

jincuteguy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
406
So for anyone that already got the Club 3D CAC-1085 4k@120hz adapter, is it worth it? Like how's the image quality and text at 4k@120hz?
 

jincuteguy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
406
I just order the CAC-1085 as a backup:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BX49V5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So what is the deal with this this thing? Can it support 4K/120 Hz 4:4:4/RGB 8-Bit with HDR? (I understand it does not support VRR and it will not support 4K/120 4:4:4/RGB 10-bit as that exceeds DP 1.4 [source] bandwidth).

Just wild speculation online.
Yea I want to know too if this thing is worth it? Like no one has one in here?
 

SoCali

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Messages
86
They posted their findings but it seems to completely contradict another guys finding on AVS with his C9 using that adapter who has no issues with it. AVS guy is even using it with a 1080 Ti which isn't even capable of DSC.
 
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