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LG 48CX

Still holding out for november OLED deals but in the meantime I moved my whole rig to a different wall in my spare room.

It seemed like taking apart a space shuttle control center and putting it back together because I have so many peripherals and wires. It was a much needed overhaul since I had been adding things gradually over time over my existing wire management. So it is a lot nicer now. However I did knock a nice very heavy chrome base banker lamp over with my head which broke the heavy frosted glass shade so that was a loss. Then I moved my TCL 43" S405 screen on it's ergotron arm with not enough slack in the hdmi cable which resulted in the metal end of the hdmi plug getting broken 90 degrees. I tried a longer 18gbps cable I had laying around but the screen would blink occasionally, very annoyingly. Now half of the screen is dim. I tried doing a full system restore on the tv and I dug up a shorter ~ 10' 18Gbps hdmi cable. It's not blinking anymore but it's always dim on the right side. I looked it up on google and it seems like some of these cheap TCLs die like that in 1.5 - 2 yrs. However the PC move probably contributed to it's demise. Incidentally I also hit the top of my head on the corner of a wall shelf which resulted in a small goose egg and a tiny bit of blood in my hair. :rolleyes:

So now I'm deciding if I will get another NU6900 Samsung 43" to match the other 43" monitor in my array. There is still a few brick and mortar stores within 20 mins of here that have some and they are better than this year's model. I screen shotted some layouts with one or two 43" 4k screens alongside a 48" or 55" oled using a monitor layout calculator but I'm still undecided on my layout.

.....

I just measured out 42" across on the middle of my display desk to represent the width of a LG 48" CX and locked my tape measure there. Then I moved each 43" display in portrait mode just to the edge of where the ends of that 48" TV would be, one on each end. It seems like a good setup once I rolled my peripheral desk and chair back a little more and set the 43" displays to 125% scaling and tweaked a few things. I'd been considering putting both 43" displays in portrait on the same side of an OLED so that I could rotate to one side to do all desktop/app things when not focusing on what the media/gaming OLED stage is running but I think I will start with the bookends type setup I'm more used to first and see how it goes.

~ 42" wide is still a very big screen if the best buy dimensions are accurate. (The 55" one is ~ 48.5" wide according to their site).

I played around with the idea of doing this with a really tall pole stand for two cheap 24" displays above the OLED butI wouldn't buy into that for awhile.
The 5 and 6 are just parts of a single 43" display in this example if anyone is wondering.
43" VA TV = monitor 1, monitor "5&6"
48" OLED TV = monitor 4
24" 1080p LCD = monitor 2, monitor 3

iCy3VtQ.png


So at first it'd be the "rabbit ears" without #2 and #3. I'm using my setup right now with the 43" screens that far apart. I think the extra 3.25" distance on each end to each 43" screen if using a 55" would be pushing it too far so I hope the questions about the 48" CX all pan out on the 3000 series gpus with hdmi 2.1. I think my setup is looking good in this orientation - just missing that centerpiece I'll pick up in a few months.
 
Pr0Pain said:
Anyone else experiencing the PC icon being reset back to the HDMI icon in the Home Dashboard ? Happens almost everyday now, screwing up my settings, Auto brightness and input latency everytime :(
Click to expand...
The icon resets only when I unplug the HDMI cable. I can shutdown the PC and it doesn't reset as long as the cable remains connected. This is both with a direct connection to the GPU, and with the CAC-1085. Unplugging the USB cable of the CAC-1085 doesn't reset the icon either.
 
I thought I finally found an easily reproducible "near black flicker" smoking gun....but I'm thinking now it's a false alarm because it happens on other displays as well.

In the Xbox Game Pass app, if you scroll through the list of games the near black sections of the app get weird slightly off color random blotches, and when scrolling this looks like a flicker. But it happens with VRR off as well....and on my monitor (but is much more difficult to see on my monitor, I'm not entirely sure why...). Just something janky with the app itself I guess.
 
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The Vizio 55" and 65" OLEDs are out at best buy and a few people have them on AVSForum here:

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/2021-vizio-oled65-h1-oled55-h1-owners-thread.3167344/page-3

A quote from an owner who has had one for a few days:

Been lurking for a bit but I figured I would post a few of my takes on the Vizio OLED I've had for about two days.

My Setup:
65" Vizio Oled
Xbox One X
PS4 Pro
Nvidia Shield TV Pro

Initial thoughts:
I have been debating between the Vizio OLED and the LG CX for a while and figured I'd give Vizio another shot since my past 4 TV's have all been Vizio and I have experienced absolutely no issues with any of them.
I'm coming from a P55-C1 from a little over 4 years ago. Loved that TV and it still produces an excellent image even four years later. I have had zero problems with that TV since I bought it.


The OLED is a little more complicated. Out of the box, yeah black levels are unbelievable. HDR handling seems excellent as well. I'm no expert but it is a really astounding TV to look at. Overall picture quality seems great and I really don't have any complaints there. I don't have a whole lot of additional detail to add beyond the fact that this TV produces a really great image in general. Bonus grey uniformity picture:
Click to expand...


Some issues that are tempting me to return it before my 30 days are up and swap for an LG CX:

  1. When I enable VRR on my Xbox One X, the display starts to break down and the signal deteriorates (see video of Borderlands 3 and Assassins Creed Odyssey with this issue below). I'm not sure if this is due to the system level VRR and the Xbox is trying to send an AMD Freesync signal? On top of that, while the deterioration occurs, the TV rapidly changes from HDR10 to 10+ over and over. To make it even more bizarre, it only happens with a few games, Borderlands 3, Red Dead Redemption 2, and Assassins Creed Odyssey. (I've tested a good amount of different games at this point and these are the only ones that consistently have an issue. The issue is resolved when I disable VRR on the Xbox and reboot both the Xbox and the TV. Borderlands: 20200908_215510
    Assassins Creed: Snapchat-853107754Snapchat-1042155298
  2. In Disney+ accessed from an Nvidia Shield, when watching Dolby vision content, I saw some significant judder in some panning scenes in Rogue One. Honestly the first time I've ever witnessed judder I think. Really uncomfortable to look at. Then, when leaving the content and going back to the Disney+ menu, the signal deteriorates into a stream of static and green lines. No idea why it does this, and it doesn't behave that way when watching DV content in Netflix for example. Image of issue: 20200907-223407
These issues are really problematic and making me strongly consider returning the TV. I'm hoping these are all software issues that can be fixed with an impending update, but at the same time I don't want to risk going past the 30 day return window while waiting for a fix...
Click to expand...


He's having a problem with XBOX VRR. LG OLEDs had a problem with it as well which was fixed with a firmware update just recently in July.

He's also having a problem with disney+ off of a nvidia shield. I asked him if any other 4k HDR streaming services have the same issue. I'll report back if I hear anything.
 
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Monstieur said:
The icon resets only when I unplug the HDMI cable. I can shutdown the PC and it doesn't reset as long as the cable remains connected. This is both with a direct connection to the GPU, and with the CAC-1085. Unplugging the USB cable of the CAC-1085 doesn't reset the icon either.
Click to expand...

Ooooooh that explains it all :O i have been alternating between the HDMI cable to my livingroom OLED and this tv to couchgame from the single HDMI output on my Graphics card....cannot wait for the custom board 3080s with 2xHDMI....
 
elvn said:
The Vizio 55" and 65" OLEDs are out at best buy and a few people have them on AVSForum here:

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/2021-vizio-oled65-h1-oled55-h1-owners-thread.3167344/page-3

A quote from an owner who has had one for a few days:



He's having a problem with XBOX VRR. LG OLEDs had a problem with it as well which was fixed with a firmware update just recently in July.

He's also having a problem with disney+ off of a nvidia shield. I asked him if any other 4k HDR streaming services have the same issue. I'll report back if I hear anything.
Click to expand...
I can't wait to see a full review on the VIZIO OLED. It is actually exciting to me that prices for OLEDs are starting to become more affordable. They're still expensive, but a 55" for $1300 is a lot easier to stomach than $1800 for the CX's initial launching price.

No regrets getting the CX 55 @ $1800 here. I knew I was paying the "earlier adopter tax", and the screen is still insanely beautiful. The more I use it, the more I love it. It literally beats the pants off all of my previous gaming displays by a mile. It's not even close.

Also, I've been using Xbox One X VRR on my CX without issue. Honestly, the CX just makes the Xbox One X look insanely beautiful, especially RDR2 and Forza Motorsport 7.
 
You'd have to be insane to buy a Vizio OLED given the nonstop firmware/software bugs their LCD's have. Saving $200 is no where near worth the headache with their first foray into OLED.

The 55" CX was actually cheaper than the 48" a couple weeks ago at Bestbuy. The only price these Vizio OLED's make sense @ is $1000.
 
I'm waiting to see what's up. Vizios modern TVs seem pretty good. I've had a 70M 70" 4k VA with low density fald array for around 5 years now, and my workplace has a 65".

It'll come down to performance in reviews. Having a different gaming chip could be a notable difference pro or con. Also the 48gbps on multiple hdmi 2.1 ports.

Hopefully the LGs and the Vizios will both be valid choices but it's too early to weigh in on the vizios for me choice wise yet. November should be a good time to choose as it will have been out for a few months (and probably reviewed in detail), it might get a quick firmware update by then, the 3000 series gpu performance on both will likely be compared by then, and I can compare the vizio 55 OLED to november OLED sale prices on LG OLEDs. The availablity of an LG in 48" size is also a consideration obviously.
 
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Vizio is going to use LG panels...so there's only a few options for what's going on here:

1. LG is selling Vizio panels that don't meet their quality standards for even BX TV's (likely).
2. LG is selling at least BX-quality panels to Vizio for a profit and Vizio is skimping so hard on the other components they can still sell it for less (somewhat likely)
3. LG is selling at least BX-quality panels to Vizio for a profit and Vizio is selling the TV's at an even thinner margin than LG or even a loss and banking on selling your data to make a profit (highly unlikely they're selling at a loss, guaranteed they're selling your data to increase margins)
 
It's a combination of 2 and 3. There's no indication Sony gets inferior panels.
 
SoCali said:
It's a combination of 2 and 3. There's no indication Sony gets inferior panels.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but Sony charges MORE than LG for their OLED TV's, not less, so it can be assumed LG is selling them quality panels at a premium. I'm talking about the possible ways Vizio can charge less for an OLED TV with an LG panel than LG can.
 
LG Display Co., Ltd, the panel maker, and LG the electronics manufacturer are technically "different" companies. LG Display Co., sells panels to every manufacturer including LG Electronics.
 
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I ordered the waste-of-money NFL Sunday Ticket streaming service. Apparently you can chat with ATT and say you don't watch TV to get it without DirecTV.

There doesn't seem to be an app on the CX though. I will try Prime App tomorrow when games start.
 
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Skott said:
Technically we dont know if any of the TVs will work with the new cards and their HDMI 2.1 since there are no cards to test. We're going to find out soon enough though. I been debating whether to try and get a 3090 early or just wait. I have a backlog of house projects that requires money and I'm not keen on a FE model anyway plus there is the wait for the early adopters to do the testing and failures of TV and HDMI 2.1 and whatnot. I got more reasons to wait than to try and fight my way in line on day one. I just need to suppress that upgrade itch.
Click to expand...

Dont be silly, ofc it will work with HDMI 2.1 on the 3000 series. Thats what standards are for. Either way, there is plenty of time for you to find out before the September 24th release of the RTX3090. There are many people who are eager to test the RTX3080 with OLED C9 and CX, me included. Expect to read about it in 3 days when the NDA goes out, maybe before since the NDA was originally September 14th and some may not pay attention to nvidia. ;)
 
sirsad said:
I ordered the waste-of-money NFL Sunday Ticket streaming service. Apparently you can chat with ATT and say you don't watch TV to get it without DirecTV.

There doesn't seem to be an app on the CX though. I will try Prime App tomorrow when games start.
Click to expand...
I use Locast.org, free service to watch local TV in 13 large markets. they also have an app for amazon firestick.
 
wooj said:
I use Locast.org, free service to watch local TV in 13 large markets. they also have an app for amazon firestick.
Click to expand...
And I just discovered this! What is sad is that I cannot even get NFL Sunday Ticket to work lol.
 
Cali3350 said:
May I ask what HDMI 2.1 cables you all are using? I have having trouble finding properly certified cables. This cable appears to be properly certified, but its Amazon so who knows - https://www.amazon.com/48Gbps-Compatible-Netflix-Playstation-Samsung/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ultra+high+speed+hdmi+cable&qid=1600021001&sr=8-3&th=1

This is in preparation for a RTX 3xxx card I will use with my LG CX.
Click to expand...
I bought these. I won't know how well they work until I get a 3090.
 
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sirsad said:
I ordered the waste-of-money NFL Sunday Ticket streaming service. Apparently you can chat with ATT and say you don't watch TV to get it without DirecTV.

There doesn't seem to be an app on the CX though. I will try Prime App tomorrow when games start.
Click to expand...
There are several streaming sites, legit and otherwise, as long as you have a hi-speed connection, you shold never need those scam packages anymore.
 
I bought this cheap HDMI 2.1 cable I found on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HDMI-Ca...var=432740243371&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Need a HDMI 2.1 capable card to find out if it really works, my 2080 Ti can do 4K 120Hz but at a reduced colour chroma.

Also, is anybody getting green colour tinting on the side of the screen? Mine is visible at the top left and bottom side of the screen which is kinda annoying, though not a major issue as it will go away but will return later.
 
Monoprice has reasonably priced 48gbps / 8k hdmi cables and they have a very good track record even if I haven’t tested these cables in particular.
 
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I did some more testing with the Club3D adapter and interestingly 1440p 120 Hz has zero issues in SDR vs HDR but both 1080p 120 and 4K 120 Hz do. The performance for 1440p does not differ if the adapter is used or not.

1080p 120 Hz SDR will somehow only output 4:2:2 with both HDMI 2.0 vs adapter + HDMI 2.1 but with HDR enabled seems to do better...but still somehow manages to have color that differs from 4K 60 Hz HDR or 1440p 120 Hz HDR. This same issue occurs at 4K 120 Hz which leads me to wonder if this is some sort of firmware bug on the TV. We will know for sure when HDMI 2.1 GPUs hit the market.

Interestingly the LG CX 48 EDID defines 1440p 120 Hz separately whereas 1080p and 4K 120 Hz are listed in the "TV resolutions" section. I tried removing them from there and adding them as their own DisplayID block but it made no difference.
 
domenic said:
I needed a 12ft cable for my CX (still in a box waiting for an RTX 3090) to replace my existing C7. Over the years sometimes even a copper cable at that length could be wonky as I went through several cables to get rid of sparkles sometimes.

This time around I decided to just "pay the cable tax" and go with a fiber HDM1 2.1 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SFN2FG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

Cool I'll be interested to hear how that cable works out for you off of a hdmi 2.1 gpu later. Did you get the 20' one?
 
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elvn said:
Cool I'll be interested to hear how that cable works out for you off of a hdmi 2.1 gpu later. Did you get the 20' one?
Click to expand...

Yes. Never paid that much for a cable but from what I have been reading 6-8' is the limit for HDMI 2.1 via copper.
 
domenic said:
Yes. Never paid that much for a cable but from what I have been reading 6-8' is the limit for HDMI 2.1 via copper.
Click to expand...

Given how close in price 20ft is to the shorter ones....I'd get a 20ft one regardless of what I need and coil the excess in case I need it longer later given how expensive the cable is. If I end up needing one (I have a 2m copper cable now so we'll see) I'll get a 50ft one in case I need it down the road to run to my living room for VR, I have a 10m active copper 2.0 cable for that now.
 
There's no need for optical cables for short runs. $25 10-foot copper cables work fine at 4K 120 Hz 10-bit RGB.
 
Yeah TBH I'd rather experiment with 3 $20 cables off Amazon and return the 2 that don't work vs dropping $120 on one.
 
Planning to (hopefully) get an RTX 3080 later this week and also a CX 48". The card I’m looking at only has 1 HDMI out port, which would run to the CX for Gsync. If I want to run audio out to my AVR, can I use a separate HDMI cable from my motherboard to the AVR?
 
es-wi said:
Planning to (hopefully) get an RTX 3080 later this week and also a CX 48". The card I’m looking at only has 1 HDMI out port, which would run to the CX for Gsync. If I want to run audio out to my AVR, can I use a separate HDMI cable from my motherboard to the AVR?
Click to expand...
Wait for others to reply to this, but I'm fairly sure you can audio out from the HDMI-ARC on the CX.
 
MissJ84 said:
Wait for others to reply to this, but I'm fairly sure you can audio out from the HDMI-ARC on the CX.
Click to expand...
I use HDMI-eARC on my second computer from the CX to Denon AVR. I do have to change the windows sample rate from 24 bit to 16 bit and then back to 24 bit every time I boot up, though.
 
sirsad said:
I use HDMI-eARC on my second computer from the CX to Denon AVR. I do have to change the windows sample rate from 24 bit to 16 bit and then back to 24 bit every time I boot up, though.
Click to expand...

I’ve heard of issues including this one with EARC, which is why I’m hoping to bypass it entirely by using a separate cable from my MB.
 
es-wi said:
I’ve heard of issues including this one with EARC, which is why I’m hoping to bypass it entirely by using a separate cable from my MB.
Click to expand...
Don't know about Win10, but on Win7 I used a cheapo GPU (GT710) as a sound card by running it into my AVR. That was when nVidia had the "never clock down on multiple displays" issue.
 
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es-wi said:
Planning to (hopefully) get an RTX 3080 later this week and also a CX 48". The card I’m looking at only has 1 HDMI out port, which would run to the CX for Gsync. If I want to run audio out to my AVR, can I use a separate HDMI cable from my motherboard to the AVR?
Click to expand...

You can use a Displayport->HDMI cable also. I'm doing this on my 2080Ti right now.
 
If you already have a 18 AWG 4K rated cable, you should be good and 18 AWG cables have been around for a good while now.
 
I used to have a 25' hdmi/dvi, displayport and a bit shorter usb run to my desk setup from a storage room years ago. I also ran a media server pc from that room 50' through basement ceiling to my living room tv.

Right now I use a 32' active usb 3.1 extension cable plugged in with a wallwart adapter in the middle of it , run to my oculus quest. It's adapted to usb-C at the oculus quest headset end. So for that device, fiber HDMI isn't going to do me any good. However I looked it up and monoprice does make a fiber usb-c cable in a similar price range to the hdmi ones.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=38579
Transmits Up To 100 Feet: SlimRun™ AV can perfectly transmit 4K@60Hz HDR video to distances up to 100 feet without extenders by using optical fiber to replace copper wire as the high-speed signal transmission medium.
Click to expand...
4k 60, quest is 75hz (90hz capable internally supposedly but not supported). I don't know what the quest 2's connection will be. I'm guessing it would work since the Quest uses compression in the signal.

It would be interesting to be able to move my pc back to the storage room again after all these years, running fiber to my regular hdmi displays,peripherals, and my VR headset. As quiet as I can make my pc, there's nothing as quiet as when the pc is off or is in another room. It also doesn't put heat into the room in the summer. I can crank up the AC some but in between cycles, if opting to run a room fan that is just adding more noise again. A 100' usb-C run would probably even reach from my storage room across my breezeway and into my garage for VR if I ever get around to remodeling my garage as a workout and VR space with rubberized tile floor, etc.
 
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