I got my LianLi PC-A05B ! it's Small!

Thank you.. lol. When I got it all put together and booted it up, the first thing that came to my mind was it looked like sex. :p
 
Hi all, I am from Singapore and after checking this thread for a few weeks I had gotten a PC-A05B too :D

Not beautifully modded like how some wonderful guys did it but I shall still post a few pics of it....

03112007154.jpg


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Something to look at that doesn't require any modding would be the Swiftech H20-120 kit. It is basically mount and plug in and you're done. It would fit in the A05 really easy without a hassle.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...pact_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Kit.html?tl=g30#blank

That actually looks like a pretty feasible option. Although, some of the Newegg reviews for this complain about incomprehensible instructions and 4-5 hour builds (for that little thing??) But I know Swiftech makes crap manuals from past experience. Why can't companies hire people that can write good manuals?

Anyway, back on topic: I really like the pics of this case and what you guys have done; there are some very nice builds here. I'm really thinking about getting this case for my next build, which will be based on a new Yorkfield CPU.
 
That actually looks like a pretty feasible option. Although, some of the Newegg reviews for this complain about incomprehensible instructions and 4-5 hour builds (for that little thing??) But I know Swiftech makes crap manuals from past experience. Why can't companies hire people that can write good manuals?
They must be pretty stupid.. lol. All you have to do is mount the fan/radiator (4 screws), apply thermal paste (which already might be on there), mount the waterblock on the CPU, plug in the pump.. and your done. It couldn't be any easier. :p
 
Yeah...but you gotta figure that not everybody has common sense and then, some people really don't care to learn about certain aspects of things.... like for example, I once had someone ask me what I was doing burning "that little silver wire" up and letting it drip and stick to a circuit board... I replied as to what I was doing in a few words... "I'm soldering these wires to run to a switch", I said... then they replied, "why?".... sigh :rolleyes:
Anyway... manuals should be written better for the alot of products, I agree.
Hey PenaltyShot... DO IT... buy one... you know you want to... :D

Later y'all.
 
Could anyone specify whether the BS-03 or the BS-01 aluminum fan assemblies can be mounted at the same time as an h20-120 radiator on the rear fan? Thanks in advance for your response!
 
They must be pretty stupid.. lol. All you have to do is mount the fan/radiator (4 screws), apply thermal paste (which already might be on there), mount the waterblock on the CPU, plug in the pump.. and your done. It couldn't be any easier. :p

Duh...You want me to mount the what now? :D

(Actually if you read the whole thing it sounds a bit kinky...haha)
 
Hi,

I've gotten great ideas and insights into this case, which I'd been interested in getting for a month or so, from this thread, so I thought I'd share something I did with my A05 I don't think anyone else in the thread has done yet.

Basically, I hate a noisy computer, so I make sure my systems are at least quieter than the central HVAC in my house. When I put my A05 together, I never heard anything but HD noise, so I decided to suspend the drives rather than have them mounted on the rails using the only partially effective rubber nuts. Here's what I did:

First, I drilled out the rivets holding the six paired drive rails to the 3.5" drive cage to make room. The product I'm using to suspend the drives is called Stretch Magic, the 1.8mm diameter variety, and it's sold in crafts stores for making necklaces and stuff with beads.

Version 1 as below used the rivet holes to pull the stretch magic through, but that left the lower drive suspended very close to the bottom of the cage, and once the cables got attached to the drive it was actually resting on the cage rather than suspended freely.


Version 2 as below uses the round ventilation or whatever holes in the cage, which leads to a nicer, more centered and spaced out arrangement of my two drives. I turned the two drives upside down so that I could more easily connect my SATA optical drive and two HDs with one power cable from my Corsair HX620 that has 3 SATA power plugs on it. It's still not ideal, however, because the PCIe graphics power plug from my 7900GTX interferes with the SATA power plug, keeping the drive from being truly freely suspended.


I'm not 100% satisfied yet, with either my elastic suspension setup or my cable management, so I'm sure I'll pull the whole system apart and redo it another 5-10 times before I can leave it alone until my next project :)
 
The bands of Stretch Magic are twisted around each drive, so they're very secure. If I were going to move house or otherwise let the case be moved without me myself and only I handling it I would take the drives out, but that's what I do anyway. Antec basically uses this method of suspension, albeit with more of a cloth covered bungee cord thing, in their P150/Solo cases (and maybe others, not sure, I've only owned P180s).
 
you must have one of those thumbdrive size PSUs, bc I don't see it anywhere :p
 
Someone else in the thread did do something like this actually. But Im wondering how much quieter is this kind of thing?
 
My case just got here. I have to go by Fed Ex later to get my Corsair 520 W Modular PSU.

I'm going to start setting it up tonight. How are the 120mm fans? I've got some spare Yate Loon 120mm fans (Model: D12SL-12 RPM: 1350 +/- 10%CFM: 47dB: 28).
Would you guys advise switching fans now as opposed to tearing this apart later?

Should I try the PSU fan pointing up or down first? I'll be using the hard drive cage.

First Impression, the weight is incredible and you can really feel the quality. I've only worked with Sonatas for my own system and friends'. They were good cases, but heavy and cramped.
 
The stock Lian-Li badged fans are pretty quiet but the Yate Loons are more quiet so I'd swap those out now. I think the faq specs on LL's page for their fans is a bit overrated; according to their specs they're nearly as quiet as the Yate Loons and push nearly as much air but I'd disagree on both accounts...Yate Loons seem to push more at a quieter noise.

My first psu in this case (an Allied 500w) was upside down so the intake fan would pull air from the HD area; my new psu (Corsair 550VX) is the correct way, with the fan on the bottom and it seems like the psu is cooler because of this. I've seen people mount theirs both ways but I think the psu will get more air with the fan on the bottom so I'd go that way, personally.
 
Yate Loons also undervolt pretty well and the stock Lian-Li's tend to make a knocking noise when they are undervolted (from my experience anyway).
 
Thanks. I went with the PSU right side up. I tested the stock fan vs my low yate loon with my fan controller. I did notice any problems under volting and the stock pushed more air. I'll use the two stocks fans for now. If I don't like my case temps, I may order 2 medium speed yate loons. I've got some medium speed panflo 38 thick, but the damn things are too loud.

I'll finish the cabling tomorrow and I'm waiting on the bezels to come in. After I get it finished up, I'll take some pics. They'll be relatively tame for this thread. I don't care for windows and it'll be packing a s939 with a 7900gtx.

I didn't try taking out the front fan before I put in the psu, is there enough room for it to drop straight down and out?
 
No, the front fan is sorta a PITA to get out. I had to drop mine down but then you also have to start angling it towards the back of the case to get it completely out. There's no way you could have the psu in there and still be able to swap out the fan.
 
It could be removed with some technique and force ..

btw what's wrong with the emblem ?? not well designed ??
 
It's designed fine, I just like things w/o emblems/logo on it (like cars and clothes), it feels more clean, I don't know if other share the same feelings but when it comes to this case, I'd rather have the bezel vs. have two brands of different optical drives in different colors on the bays. I hope this kind of makes sense, I explained a little more elaborately in my other posts. I love Lian-Li products, have nothing against them, please don't get me wrong about the question of removing the emblem. Thanks for the response :D

Will there be remnants or marks after removing the emblem with forceful technique? Has anyone done this before?
 
I just removed mine (temporarily).

It's a little foil-backed sticker, basically. When I pried it off, the small amount of adhesive all came with it and the case looked fine. Maybe a little wipe down would be necessary but otherwise mine came off clean.

I then put it back on. ;)
 
I just removed mine (temporarily).

It's a little foil-backed sticker, basically. When I pried it off, the small amount of adhesive all came with it and the case looked fine. Maybe a little wipe down would be necessary but otherwise mine came off clean.

I then put it back on. ;)

nice! thanks for the response.
 
No prob :D
I'll admit - this case does look even more sleek without the metal sticker on it...I may take mine off permanently (but stick it on an empty "sticker sheet" so I can always reapply it later on if I decide to...I dunno how hard it would be to get a replacement if it was thrown away).

Looked real slick. I'm with you, I like the clean look as well which is why I went with this case in the first place. On the optical drive front, the one I'm going with (Pioneer DVR-212D) I will be buying because the front of the drive really has no identifying marks; no brand names, no silk screened logos or disc stuff (ie "LightScribe" etc), it just looks like a regular OEM drive like you'd get in a Dell, with no identifying marks. I think this case would look the most slick with a plain front...just straight black. No logos, no badges etc. which is why I won't be putting any case badges on mine (cpu badge, psu badge, etc).
 
When I game or run stress tests, my computer case is turning into an oven. I didnt have temp problems before when it was in an Antec Sonata II.

I'm using the stock Lian li fans, they seemed to push more air then my Yate Loon low speeds. I'm using a Scythe ninja with its fan blowing through the heatsink and toward the front of the case. When I take the side panel off and blow air on it with a floor fan. my temps drop significantly.

I mainly got this case for its sleak look, so I'm wanting to find a solution that doesnt invovle cutting blowholes or side fans. Do you guys have any suggestions? I was thinking of ordering 2 Yate loon medium speeds. I guess I'm open to holes for 120mm if I can find metal grills that blend in as best as they can.
 
Well I finally got around to modding this case the last few days and finished it/took pictures last night. Spent the last portion of last night + most of today working on re-imaging my drive; I didn't have any luck transferring a DriveImage copy of my XP IDE drive over to my 320g SATA Seagate (which is now my XP drive), guess because the old one was IDE and the new was SATA? Couldn't get it to boot...anyhow. Here's the pictures.

. :)
Looks good.
 
When I game or run stress tests, my computer case is turning into an oven. I didnt have temp problems before when it was in an Antec Sonata II.

I'm using the stock Lian li fans, they seemed to push more air then my Yate Loon low speeds. I'm using a Scythe ninja with its fan blowing through the heatsink and toward the front of the case. When I take the side panel off and blow air on it with a floor fan. my temps drop significantly.

I mainly got this case for its sleak look, so I'm wanting to find a solution that doesnt invovle cutting blowholes or side fans. Do you guys have any suggestions? I was thinking of ordering 2 Yate loon medium speeds. I guess I'm open to holes for 120mm if I can find metal grills that blend in as best as they can.

Slot coolers and/or the Lian-Li BS-01 attachment seem to be the only non-mod-worthy ways of improving cooling in the case.
 
I leave the side off of mine. I have one rear fan which cools off the Ninja CPU heatsink. I also have one fan on the Videocard- Thermrite HR-03 A for the 8800. Both fans are 120mm and are very quiet which was my goal.

Temps are 35c with case open 48c with case closed.
 
I leave the side off of mine. I have one rear fan which cools off the Ninja CPU heatsink. I also have one fan on the Videocard- Thermrite HR-03 A for the 8800. Both fans are 120mm and are very quiet which was my goal.

Temps are 35c with case open 48c with case closed.

A little high. My E6550 @ 2.8ghz idles at 34C with side closed. Stock cooling.
 
This thread has made me choose this case for my next build. Everything should be here on Monday. Love the clean, sleek look, as I'm not a fan of ricey lights and windows and all of that.

Thanks for all the pics and ideas for wire management!
 
Wow I remember when this thread first started as this is what made me buy my A05B. I cant believe its still going this strong. Looks like Lian Li really has a winner here if this case is still going strong and people are still talking about it.
 
Wow I remember when this thread first started as this is what made me buy my A05B. I cant believe its still going this strong. Looks like Lian Li really has a winner here if this case is still going strong and people are still talking about it.

only problem with it is air flow above the CPU and mem. i think if they put an intake fan on the top that could blow fresh air over the vid card, it would be the best case out there without a doubt.
 
only problem with it is air flow above the CPU and mem. i think if they put an intake fan on the top that could blow fresh air over the vid card, it would be the best case out there without a doubt.

IMHO -
Intake at top is not a good idea; exhaust (on the other hand) is.

Considering that heat rises so it's already trapped up there in a stock case to begin with.

Three choices for this case as it is (without LL making a modified/revised one with an upper exhaust...highly unlikely):

1) mod it (which is pretty easy and the best option for most people)
2) buy the BS-01 attachment (arguably what LL would want you to do)
3) buy a vga slot cooler

I wasn't interested in modding this case at first since I've never modded any case before. Then I got interested in all the things I could do and the possibilities and I decided I'd give it a shot (with a little restrainment into hoping that I didn't mess up and ruin the case). Thankfully my first mod (and first experience with a Dremel) went off pretty much without a hitch, and I now have a case with the best airflow balance out there IMO.
 
IMHO -
Intake at top is not a good idea; exhaust (on the other hand) is.

Considering that heat rises so it's already trapped up there in a stock case to begin with.

Three choices for this case as it is (without LL making a modified/revised one with an upper exhaust...highly unlikely):

1) mod it (which is pretty easy and the best option for most people)
2) buy the BS-01 attachment (arguably what LL would want you to do)
3) buy a vga slot cooler

I wasn't interested in modding this case at first since I've never modded any case before. Then I got interested in all the things I could do and the possibilities and I decided I'd give it a shot (with a little restrainment into hoping that I didn't mess up and ruin the case). Thankfully my first mod (and first experience with a Dremel) went off pretty much without a hitch, and I now have a case with the best airflow balance out there IMO.

i have an 80mm fan ziptied to the unused PCI slots which blows fresh air in over the vid card...not to mention it kind of pushes it across the case and down into where the exhaust fan on the front.
 
Thanks for the replies. I changed the intake fan to a 38mm medium speed Panflo and switched the scythe fan on the ninja heatsink to blow toward the top of the case. My temps have dropped dramatically in the case. It no longer collects heat at the top. The case feels a little warmer than the room when I put my hand on top, before it felt pretty hot.

My guess, having a fast intake but still the stock exhaust, air is now being forced out the vents in the top rear of the case. The heat sink's fan also helps air flow to the top of the case. Since the HSF is also cooler now, the air its blowing is pretty much the temp of the air froming through the HSF from the panflo blowing directly on it.

If I get a faster 120mm exhaust fan (my only fast ones are 38mm thick), I think I can make the case suck intake air through the rear vents, if I have an imbalance between the two 120mm fans favoring the exhaust. I need to get a thermal probe so I can get actual case temps.
 
Does anyone know if it would be possible to fit an mcr320 on the top (push config) with the cdrom in the lower bay? Could any one tell me the clearance from the top of the 2nd 5 1/4 bay to the top of the case? \

Thanks
 
so can you place an mATX mobo in there with a normal corsair psu ?

I think it was said before that you can place up to a 7" PSU with a ATX motherboard. Im sure you could fit a bigger one with the mATX mobo. I have ordered a silverstone PSU that is 7" deep and Im going to use a 680i board, Ill let you know how it shakes out.
 
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