H55N-USB3

Mine wakes fine with my logitech dinovo wireless keyboard, IIRC there are some green options in the BIOS, check for them
 
I have been researching with no luck. I looked in the bios for additional settings and saw nothing. The light on the usb transmitter turns off as soon as I press sleep. Then under device manager if I change it to not power off the usb when in sleep the setting doesn't stick. The setting to allow it to wake from sleep is grayed out. I then tried to do it manually under the cmd prompt but it says I don't have permission even when I run cmd as an admin. Please help.
 
updawg said:
I have been researching with no luck. I looked in the bios for additional settings and saw nothing. The light on the usb transmitter turns off as soon as I press sleep. Then under device manager if I change it to not power off the usb when in sleep the setting doesn't stick. The setting to allow it to wake from sleep is grayed out. I then tried to do it manually under the cmd prompt but it says I don't have permission even when I run cmd as an admin. Please help.
Click to expand...

have you tried calling gigabyte yet?
 
updawg said:
Not yet, but in the meantime if someone has any suggestions I would be very appreciative.
Click to expand...

IIRC there are some utilities for on/off charge and alike. Also try using one of the blue ports. It doensn't make sense that ports go off considering I can charge my iPad while OFF (OFF not S1 nor S3)
 
Yeah, gigabyte has an utility you can download to keep a "charging" port open, depending on your PSU's standby 5V power.
 
jeremyshaw said:
Yeah, gigabyte has an utility you can download to keep a "charging" port open, depending on your PSU's standby 5V power.
Click to expand...

IDK how much the system itself needs for standby, but typically decent PSUs will have 2.5A of 5VSB. The nominal USB power output is 0.5A (500mA) 5v, though of course some devices (*COUGH* iPad) needs a whole lot more than what the standard calls for.

FWIW I think my Samsung Android phone needs more too. :rolleyes: It comes with a 700mA charger.
 
Where is that utility? Thanks for the input guys I really want to get this working.
 
If you hit ctrl + f1 in the bios it gives you an option under the bios to enable usb s3 resume, however, my rii keyboard isn't friendly with it. I might return it back to amazon but other than that it is good.
 


xsun2.png


osun3.jpg


x03.1.png


sorry too large images:eek:
 
Hi guys, putting together a SFF system in a SG05 and am trying to decide whether to go for a zotac h55itx-c-e or spend slightly more(about 35$) and go for the H55N-USB3?

I don't really need the extra SATA ports or the Wifi on the zotac, the only thing that has me worried about the H55N-USB3 is that according to newegg(not really reliable I know) many motherboards have been dieing recently after a couple of months running.. Anyone heard about that?

Should I go for the zotac or the gigabyte?
Will be using an i3-530 in it with a mushkin callisto ssd and will be using the IGP for HTPC duties.
 
If I already had the CPU....I'd go for the H55N-USB3.

Otherwise I'd wait for a Z68 board
 
Can someone please explain the very negative customer reviews of the GIGABYTE GA-H55N-USB3 at Newegg?

Just got my board, really like it - but, what is causing it, and how can it be avoided?

/SWIN
 
Good day, any other people experiencing problems when connecting 2 external usb hard drives simultaneously?

What happens to my setup is that, it wont detect the 2nd external drive, Windows 7 gives out an error.

I've got a Saitek Eclipse kb and DeathAdder mouse and those are the only usb devices connected to the board aside from the 2 external hard drives.

What might be the cause of the problem?

Thanks! :)
 
SWIN said:
Can someone please explain the very negative customer reviews of the GIGABYTE GA-H55N-USB3 at Newegg?

Just got my board, really like it - but, what is causing it, and how can it be avoided?

/SWIN
Click to expand...

I have experience with both boards and one of those 1 star reviews on Newegg is mine.

I'm not sure what's up with the H55N's. If you were smart enough to pick one up when they were first released, you should be fine. It's people who picked them up recently that have issues. My system was:

H55N-USB3
Core i5 750 @ 3.8GHz w/ Corsair H50
RipjawX 2x4GB
Sapphire HD6950
Corsair 620HX PSU

I later moved most of this stuff into a SG05 replacing the H50 with a Samuel-17 and the PSU with the stock 450W PSU. Due to space and moving to air cooling, I lowered my overclock to 3.6GHz.

What I noticed:

1. BIOS corrupts fairly easily: And by corrupt I mean odd characters would appear where normal text should be.

2. Weird reproducible oddities: Entering 170 for BCLK would not auto calculate the resulting CPU speed unless I hit up and down to move through the menu a few times.

3. Load Line Calibration broken: Could not be enabled for Lynnfield CPUs or the system would lock up within a min or two after boot up (didn't matter how much the CPU was loaded). Worked fine with Clarkdales.

4. Voltages were all over the place. With LLC off (since I was using a Lynnfield), I expected a droop, but this board would both droop AND overvolt on load. I had it set to 1.36 in the BIOS and it would go as low as 1.312v to as high as 1.424.

In any case, it still worked okay and I made sure to reflash the BIOS whenever I saw issues come up. When I finally got it set up the way I wanted, I was surfing the web when all of a sudden the whole system just shut down. When I tried to power it back up, it wouldn't boot just attempt to boot and shut off immediately over and over.

My overclock wasn't extreme and didn't need much voltage for 3.6GHz. Vcore was below 1.3v and VTT was at 1.15V. Also EIST was enabled so at the time of death it was running 1.8GHz with 1.0v vcore.

Gigabyte support was totally useless and their RMA process is needlessly complex (have to submit RMA request, then wait 3 days for them to review it, etc etc).

JimmyN said:
Hi guys, putting together a SFF system in a SG05 and am trying to decide whether to go for a zotac h55itx-c-e or spend slightly more(about 35$) and go for the H55N-USB3?

Should I go for the zotac or the gigabyte?
Will be using an i3-530 in it with a mushkin callisto ssd and will be using the IGP for HTPC duties.
Click to expand...

I replaced the Gigabyte with the Zotac H55ITX-C-E since Newegg has since discontnued the board on their site (which that alone should make you think twice about getting the H55N). The Zotac is just "okay" but if you want to overclock it has a few issues of its own:

1. No VTT control: It's locked at 1.12v. This makes overclocking a pain and you tend to have to use more vcore than necessary on other boards to compensate.

2. No RAM Command Rate control: What's worse is that it's locked at a tight 1T instead of a looser 2T which my Ripjaws are rated for. That means I can't run them at their rated speed and have to underclock them. Adding voltage to them isn't an option because that would just make the distance between the VTT and VDIMM greater than 0.45 (because of the locked 1.12v VTT) which I hear can damage the IMC. For me it just results in instability.

3. High stock voltages: If you leave your settings at stock, the Zotac board tends to pick really high voltages. My 750 which the H55N put somewhere around 1.20v for stock settings, the Zotac chooses 1.33v. You're basically really close to the Intel max of 1.4v Which brings me to my last complaint:

4. No LLC control: As far as I can tell it's locked at enabled because it overvolts on load instead of droop. Couple this with the high stock voltages and on load you could be at or over the Intel max of 1.4 and generating a lot of heat needlessly without even overclocking.

You can't do anything about 1 and 2, but 3 and 4 can be avoided by manually changing the values. I doubt Zotac will release a BIOS update to fix any of these issues.


So there you have it. Basically if you want a solid overclocker, go with the H55N-USB3 and pray you don't get a lemon (which seems pretty likely), if you're not planning to overclock or overclock lightly, go with the H55ITX-C-E. For an HTPC, I'd think the included WiFi would be pretty beneficial.

Currently I have the 750 running in the Zotac at 3.5GHz at 1.288v (1.320v on load). Higher than what it would take in the H55N which needed 1.28v (around 1.23v on load) but the lack of VTT control on the Zotac forces me to set it that high. I was able to drop the Ripjaw timings to 8-8-8-24 to compensate though.


UPDATE: I posted my complaints about the H55ITX-C-E on their forums and the admin is forwarding them to their engineers. No idea if it'll result from a BIOS update, but it still nice to get a response.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your answer, Dark79!

Maybe they just forgot to put some paste on the north bridge cooler, or something..

One way to get a bad reputation, sloppy quality control....


Edit 2012-09-30

My GIGABYTE GA-H55N-USB3 is still working, well kind of.

Somtimes it just refuses to boot, an I have to remove a memorystick to get it going again.

The Intel stock cooler didnt work too good, got 60 - 70 + o C on the CPU regulary.
After hacking and cutting off on 3 corners on the mounting bracket, I managed to mount a Antec Kühler H2O 620.
Got about 40 o C max with that cooler.

At the same time took off the north bridge cooler - the paste was all dried up, and had to be scraped off with a toothpick.
There was a small burned spot, indicating that the paste was transmitting heat only at that place.

Its up and running again, using it with a Gigabyte Radeon HD7970 Windforce 3X card - works very well for gaming.

A good mobo, but strange that Gigabyte kind of gave it up.

Edit 2013-12-18

Still up and running, no problems what so ever since renewing the paste.

If somebody else have one GA-H55N-USB3 that still lives, don't forget to renew that paste...

/SWIN
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top