H55N-USB3

joebobsteve said:
I always thought motherboards had specific voltage requirements, not just for maximum but also minimum. But this is good news. I wont be as limited.

I also have 4x1gb dual channel 1.5v Gskill memory sitting unused because they were incompatible with my triple channel 1366 board. I might be able to use those to flash the BIOS if the memory I purchase is not compatible with the Gigabyte.
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did you try using 3 of those 4 sticks in your 1366 board? when i had my 1366 board i bought 2 sets of 2x2GB ripjaws because i wanted the red ones and they only came in dual channel sets and i used 3 of the 4 sticks for triple channel. theres no such thing as dual channel or triple channel ram, that only indicates how its packaged (in sets of 2 or 4 sticks vs in sets of 3 or 6 sticks.)
 
It's the red one. I normally get low latency ones but when I got it, many of them said latency doesn't really matter now. I think difference it made was very minimal to the point that it wasn't worth it or something like that. Color wise, it isn't perfect but it's not too bad. I would have gotten ECO if I knew they had it but it wasn't there when I got it. I would have liked 1.35v :( Also, color wise ECO pretty much goes with any color.

joebobsteve said:
Hey HaxEJxuK are you talking about the red Ripjaws or the blue ones? I just clicked the Ripjaw link in your sig but I can see how it would link to the wrong one.

I assumed the red Ripjaw was the wrong one because it ran at 1.5v while every other memory set recommended by Gigabyte runs at 1.65v.
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ekuest said:
did you try using 3 of those 4 sticks in your 1366 board? when i had my 1366 board i bought 2 sets of 2x2GB ripjaws because i wanted the red ones and they only came in dual channel sets and i used 3 of the 4 sticks for triple channel. theres no such thing as dual channel or triple channel ram, that only indicates how its packaged (in sets of 2 or 4 sticks vs in sets of 3 or 6 sticks.)
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Yeah, I tried asking that in another forum but no one could give me a definitive answer. It was always a vague answer like they didnt understand what I was asking. I just gave up and assumed there was a difference.

I only started thinking this way after my first incompatible memory set. Before, I never had a problem with incompatibility.

And I have tried all different combinations of the memory on the 1366 board. I updated to the latest BIOS and it didnt help.

Deep down I kinda knew this since I was always able to add an extra stick of memory when needed and didnt have to worry about whether I had 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 sticks of memory inserted.
 
HaxEJxuK said:
It's the red one. I normally get low latency ones but when I got it, many of them said latency doesn't really matter now. I think difference it made was very minimal to the point that it wasn't worth it or something like that. Color wise, it isn't perfect but it's not too bad. I would have gotten ECO if I knew they had it but it wasn't there when I got it. I would have liked 1.35v :( Also, color wise ECO pretty much goes with any color.
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I think a color contrast in the DIMM slot and the actual memory is better than matching blue and blue, but red and blue also looks kinda stupid. The silver ECOs would be a nice match. Its too bad theyre out of stock and dont seem like theyll be restocking in the future. Only ++++ and other Canadian places sell them.
 
Yup, I did quick search and other place seems to charge like $270 or so before shipping. Sucks. Oh well, I'm stuck with what I've got now. I don't want to keep losing money by selling stuff. If I would to sell mine and get ECO when it's back, I would be losing something like $40-$60 and still pay difference to get ECO which in total I'll be losing $80-$100 to get ECO. I think I'll just keep mine. :(

joebobsteve said:
I think a color contrast in the DIMM slot and the actual memory is better than matching blue and blue, but red and blue also looks kinda stupid. The silver ECOs would be a nice match. Its too bad theyre out of stock and dont seem like theyll be restocking in the future. Only ++++ and other Canadian places sell them.
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Waiting for Matt's Lan-Gear ITX case (see the other thread in this forum) -- but I still need to test if my components are good to go.

It took a while to get the Samuel 17 on, but that's because I'm a noob. Paired it with a Silverstone Air Penis, I mean Penetrator

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Mushkin Enhanced (2x4GB) :)



After some trouble, managed to get everything to post:

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"Ultra GHetto setup" (UGH) :cool: -- Had to use the case switch from an out-of-order PC

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Oh, fuck. :eek: This was annoying -- the Samuel 17 is so flush up against the video card, that it's near impossible to get at the release switch -- once this is in a case, this may be near impossible to reach.

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I had to use a screwdriver from the RAM side of the board to get it free -- I figure there might be a way to get at it later once it's in a case, but the cables will need to be nowhere near that in order for this to be less painful.



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Back in the closet you go! :rolleyes:


Components so far:

Gigabyte H55N (durr)
Core i5 760
Samuel 17 paired with Silverstone Air Penetrator
Silverstone ST45SF 450W PSU
8GB (2x4GB) Mushkin DDR3
No video card -- may reuse my GTS 250
 
air penetrator (snicker). looks awesome. did you try overclocking at all yet on the samuel 17? i think you might be able to pull the ram quickly and then get at the gpu release easier.
 
lol, I just needed to put it together for warranty purposes, since newegg has that 30-day policy. Just wanted to make sure that it'll at least POST, so that whenever Matt is done I can put it together with confidence.

Probably not going to overclock; if anything I might go under. (I think they have some speedstep like technology). And yeah, it might be possible to remove the RAM first -- though in a case as cramped as the Lan-Gear, that might not be as nice as an easier way of getting at it. I think a very long screwdriver will do the trick.
 
yeah i meant for the time being. once its in the case taking the ram out will be pretty hard too. getting it back in will probably be harder. :) underclocking isnt necessary at all. a moderate overclock should be easy. in my microfly clone, i have my H50 set so low that its quieter than my psu, which is an ultra X4 and pretty quiet right now. looking at the knob i would say its around half speed. and i can still run prime95 blend and max out at 60C, with speedstep and hyperthreading enabled. and i havent even tried to lower the vcore, its on stock. so yeah even with a small samuel 17 i would bet that getting it under 80C or so under full load at stock speeds would be super easy.
 
Question; Read somewhere on the thread, that the AXP140, Samuel 17, H50 are the only coolers that don't block the PCIe slot. Correct? I plan using a shuriken rev b will it work?
 
The thing about these coolers is that the fins are off center, making room for the PCI-e slot. The shuriken is centered, so I would imagine it wouldn't work out.
 
theres a guy selling AXP-140s on ebay for $80+free ship. thats the only place on the entire internet where i could find one. kinda expensive, but its worth it imo.
 
The regular Shuriken doesn't block the PCI-E Slot. The Big Shuriken does as I have it on my motherboard. And damn that AXP-140 is crazy expensive. Sigh. I may have to think about it if I ever want to use the PCI-E slot for a video card and have great temperatures.
 
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juden666 said:
Question; Read somewhere on the thread, that the AXP140, Samuel 17, H50 are the only coolers that don't block the PCIe slot. Correct? I plan using a shuriken rev b will it work?
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There are more that do fit, even tower coolers I believe, but of course tower coolers have issues fitting in most ITX cases ;)
 
Has anyone noticed who owns this board that the BIOS sits on "Loading Operating System" for about 50% of the total boot time?

Oh and obligatory picture of new build:

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Humm I removed the DVDRW from the list and now it takes no time at all...

Strange it should take so long with the optical drive being available in the boot list but at least it turns on quicker now.

Thanks for both of your help.
 
Many thanks for the tip about removing the DVD from the boot sequence. It was driving me nuts. One must wonder though why it is like that when the DVD is at the top of the boot sequence: my guess is that it is a dodgy Gigabyte implementation (and I am usually very pro-Gigabyte), as I have recently built a PC with a MSI mobo and it would boot super fast even with the DVD first in the boot sequence...
 
What cooler to get? i got 2. axp140 probably the best preformer????? but i find it to high for the sg05. i love the big shuriken but it doesnt fit. so Im thining normal shuriken? or is there other great options? i want a 25mm thick fan, dont like the slim schyte :)
 
leifeinar said:
What cooler to get? i got 2. axp140 probably the best preformer????? but i find it to high for the sg05. i love the big shuriken but it doesnt fit. so Im thining normal shuriken? or is there other great options? i want a 25mm thick fan, dont like the slim schyte :)
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Samuel 17? Corsair H50 or H70?
 
Tnx :) was thinking of the samuel 17 but its not for sale here. anny one knows whats the problem with the big shuriken? are the fins og the heatpipes that gets in the way? if its the finns I could mod it to fit? since Ive allready got a big shuriken lying here
 
the big shuriken fits....but it blocks the PCI-e slot. I think it's not modable.
 
Ill use my axp140, got a slim fan that fits under the cooler. not optimal but maby OK...:confused:

Last question, what cpu to get? in the budget range i have the 45nm quad 750 @ or dualcore 32nm I5 650. theres gonna be some moderate OC. ond ONLY gaming :p
 
Anybody having trouble with controlling the fan speeds on this? My Silverstone AP121s are chugging along at 75% full speed and need to shut up, but the ET6 software is doing nothing...
 
leifeinar said:
Ill use my axp140, got a slim fan that fits under the cooler. not optimal but maby OK...:confused:

Last question, what cpu to get? in the budget range i have the 45nm quad 750 @ or dualcore 32nm I5 650. theres gonna be some moderate OC. ond ONLY gaming :p
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Personally, if a dual-core with HT is acceptable, I'd rather take a i3 540 (or replacement) and OC it. But that's me.
 
Hrm, I'm not sure if I want to reinstall everything -- has anyone had keyboard/mouse stuttering issues? It's absurdly annoying, not sure if it's the mobo or something else, but it's happening regardless of which port I connect my KVm to.
 
ekuest said:
i think just about any tower cooler should fit if you put it sideways and put the fan on the i/o plate side. is this not true?
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I am guessing there are about 10mm from the cooler retention hole to the PCI-E slot and given that the holes are 75mm apart, that would give 100mm HSF width at best. Most tower coolers are wider that that. Also that would mean that it has to be 92mm fan on the cooler.
 
I chose to use plastic washers on the bottom of the board to mount my H70 bracket. I double stacked them for extra clearance.

First layer of plastic washers: I cut them so they fit nicely without touching any small chips.
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Second layer:
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Bracket installed:
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It clears the chip that is too close to the hole:
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Upside:
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hybry said:
I am guessing there are about 10mm from the cooler retention hole to the PCI-E slot and given that the holes are 75mm apart, that would give 100mm HSF width at best. Most tower coolers are wider that that. Also that would mean that it has to be 92mm fan on the cooler.
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ah i see. ive only used an h50 and now an axp-140. i guess that does limit the 120mm towers quite a bit.
 
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