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First time building computer

tiraides said:
Unless you constantly use Photoshop or another resource-intensive program, you'll be fine with 8GB of RAM. Most games won't require that much memory; the majority of games out today are largely dependent on the processor or video card, if not both.

The "stock speeds" for RAM with the current Intel and AMD setup is DDR3 1066. While DDR3 1333 is slower than DDR3 1600, so far, nothing has indicated that you'll need more DDR3 bandwidth for "stock" operation.

The simplest way to determine the maximum amount of amperage available for a power supply is to divide the total number of watts going through the 12V rail by 12. In the case of the Antec Truepower New, its max load is 62A or 744 watts. Keep in mind, however, that 62A is the most that the power supply can handle; ideally, you shouldn't be coming anywhere near that amount.

The OEM (or Systems Builders') copies of Windows that we recommend are the full versions of the operating system. Full versions are standalone installations, meaning that you can install Windows onto a new system, whereas upgrade versions allow you to install the new OS on top of an existing older version (like Vista or XP). It's much easier for many people to work with the full version of Windows, so stick with that.

You have said nothing that indicates that you need Windows 7 Professional; stick with Windows 7 Home Premium. Get the 64-bit version, which allows you to run 32-bit and 64-bit programs. Upon activation, however, the OEM license key is "bound" to the motherboard and dies when the motherboard dies. In other words, it's illegal to transfer the key to a new computer. But since many people keep their machines for several years, we often recommend the OEM copy due to its lower price.

Socket 2011, aka Ivy Bridge, is the slated replacement for the Socket 1366 Core i7 processors and the X58 chipset. Yes, the older Socket 1366 platform becomes "outdated" upon Ivy Bridge's arrival, but it will take at least six months after its arrival before Socket 2011 fully supplants Socket 1366 as the "enthusiast" lineup of choice.

The integrated GPU in the Sandy Bridge processor acts like the onboard GPU that's part of the motherboard, provided that you have a board capable of utilizing that GPU. I don't know much about the integrated GPU, but it was never designed to replace dedicated video cards for high-resolution gaming.
Click to expand...

So basically, the OEM version of the Windows 7 is a 1 time use, whereas the other version I can reinstall it to another machine if I decide to switch mobo? Edit: So if I choose the OEM version, and end up having to reformat my HD, I have no way of reinstalling windows 7? Does that mean I have to back up my system upon installation of Windows 7 first time?

Edit: I'll just stick with the gtx460
 
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Danny Bui said:
Outside of synthetic benchmarks, you will not notice an iota of difference between DDR3 1333 and DDR3 2200 let alone 1600 and 1800 speeds in real world apps and games. Since you're not overclocking where that higher speed RAM will come in handy, zero reason for you to spend the extra cash for DDR3 1600 or DDR3 1800 RAM unless you need a huge e-peen or something.
Click to expand...

DDR3 1333 has pc10600 and pc10666. So the pc10666 has slightly more bandwidth. Is it that significance? Also, the pc10666 has better latency and "newer" version. Should I go with the DDR3 1333, pc10666?
 
Finisher said:
So basically, the OEM version of the Windows 7 is a 1 time use, whereas the other version I can reinstall it to another machine if I decide to switch mobo? Edit: So if I choose the OEM version, and end up having to reformat my HD, I have no way of reinstalling windows 7? Does that mean I have to back up my system upon installation of Windows 7 first time?

Would nvidia gtx 460 make a good combo with the new SB or do I need a higher card like 500?
Click to expand...

You can technically reinstall Win 7 OEM as many times as you like. I have reinstalled my current copy to at least 4 or 5 different complete systems (well I think the optical drive is the same). But after the 1st initial install you have to do the phone activation. I am sure there is probably something in the T&C's about not using it on another system, but it still works. (and for the record thats just how many times I have done major changes to my personal system since I bought my most recent copy of windows 7).

a 460 is a good card period & what will pair best with SB is going to depend more on your monitor res, & what games you plan on playing then anything else.

Finisher said:
DDR3 1333 has pc10600 and pc10666. So the pc10666 has slightly more bandwidth. Is it that significance? Also, the pc10666 has better latency and "newer" version. Should I go with the DDR3 1333, pc10666?
Click to expand...

With ddr3 you will not notice a major difference regardless of the latency.. If you havent already ordered your memory then order it this afternoon from newegg when they put the gskill 1333 2x4gb shit down to 65 bucks.. You probably wont come across better ram at that good of a price any time soon.
 
Finisher said:
So basically, the OEM version of the Windows 7 is a 1 time use, whereas the other version I can reinstall it to another machine if I decide to switch mobo? Edit: So if I choose the OEM version, and end up having to reformat my HD, I have no way of reinstalling windows 7? Does that mean I have to back up my system upon installation of Windows 7 first time?
Click to expand...

Legally, based on the EULA, you can upgrade all of the parts of your system except for the motherboard and still be able to reinstall Windows using the same OEM disc as many times as you like. (I know I have to find the "source," but) Microsoft generally designated the motherboard as the "computer" itself for the purposes of the OEM license. (I don't remember the original source where I found that information, but I don't have time to look for it now.)

Unless you plan on overhauling your system completely every 12 to 18 months, there's really no reason why you need to buy the retail Windows license.
 
tiraides said:
Legally, based on the EULA, you can upgrade all of the parts of your system except for the motherboard and still be able to reinstall Windows using the same OEM disc as many times as you like. (I know I have to find the "source," but) Microsoft generally designated the motherboard as the "computer" itself for the purposes of the OEM license. (I don't remember the original source where I found that information, but I don't have time to look for it now.)

Unless you plan on overhauling your system completely every 12 to 18 months, there's really no reason why you need to buy the retail Windows license.
Click to expand...

That sounds correct to me, bit I think MS pretty much turns a blind eye to it as long as you do not have they same key active on more then 1 set of hardware at a time. Basically the reason for the phone activation is they ask how many computers you have installed this on. If you tell them 1 then your set & it activates for you.

& believe me I am in no way endorsing pirating or anything like that. But I upgrade often (I am on my 4th different mobo & cpu since last april) & have not had a problem. But I also legitimately never have it installed on more then 1 computer at a time. Even talked to a live rep once after a mobo/cpu change (from 890gxm w/ 1055t to 88g with x2 555) and the rep said it wasnt a problem & gave me the activation code.
 
bastage said:
With ddr3 you will not notice a major difference regardless of the latency.. If you havent already ordered your memory then order it this afternoon from newegg when they put the gskill 1333 2x4gb shit down to 65 bucks.. You probably wont come across better ram at that good of a price any time soon.
Click to expand...

You have the link for that deal? I don't see or can't find it. THanks
 
Here is my 2nd draft. I don't know what is a good mobo to choose for the SB i5 2500k. Can someone suggest me a couple of good mobo that is compatible with the SB i5. Also, since there is a deal for the GSkill only today, I want to get it but not sure if the mobo im going to pick will be compatible. It list "Compatible M/B Chipset: Intel P55 lntel H55 Intel X48 Intel P45 Intel X38 AMD 890 Series AMD 790 Series", so it will be compatible with the mobo that goes with the SB i5? Thanks.

CPU: Sandy Bridge i5 2500k

Motherboard:

Video Card: Which vid card should I get? Do you guys know any cheaper gtx460 card? I'm leaning towards the cheapest one at $170, EVGA
$170 EVGA 01G-P3-1366-TR GeForce GTX 460 SE (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._GDDR5_PCI-Express_2.0-_-14-130-591-_-Product

$190 GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125333

$185 MSI N460GTX -M2D1GD5/OC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127551

Memory: $70 G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-10600CL9D-8GBNT Edit: Ordered
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=3891137&SID=194r0


PSU: $120 Antec TruePower New TP-750 Blue 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371022

HD: $60 Samsung 1 TB Spinpoint 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.5 inch Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive HD103SJ Edit:Ordered
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Spinp...?ie=UTF8&qid=1294185388&sr=8-1&tag=atmlinr-20


Case: $140
COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master...UQAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1294186447&sr=8-1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

CD/DVD Drive: $20 Edit: Ordered
ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 1.5MB Cache SATA 24X Burner LightScribe Support – OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135221

Sound Card: Debating should I use the sound on the mobo or get a cheap separate one. Might just reuse my current sound card to save some money.

OS: Windows 7 Home Full OEM $100
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=481918071&pf_rd_i=507846

AntiVirus: ESET Nod32 Antivirus V4 1PC Fr/En $40
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832752008&cm_re=nod32-_-32-752-008-_-Product

Edit:
Total budget average estimate: $1000 + 200 (hopefully not)
Currently spent: $150
 
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Get the RAM now; it will work.

This is the bare minimum that you should be looking at towards a motherboard: the Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P. (Here are the specs, straight from the source.) Stick with onboard sound for now.

Buy the EVGA version of the GTX 460. You don't need much power for one card (and the board that I chose can only support one), so drop the power supply down to something like the Antec NEO ECO 520C.

Why are you buying two optical drives? Do you really perform a lot of disc-to-disc copying?

Look for as many deals as you can from Amazon. The only things you should be buying from NewEgg at this point in time are the memory and (possibly) the video card.
 
tiraides said:
Get the RAM now; it will work.

This is the bare minimum that you should be looking at towards a motherboard: the Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P. (Here are the specs, straight from the source.) Stick with onboard sound for now.

Buy the EVGA version of the GTX 460. You don't need much power for one card (and the board that I chose can only support one), so drop the power supply down to something like the Antec NEO ECO 520C.

Why are you buying two optical drives? Do you really perform a lot of disc-to-disc copying?

Look for as many deals as you can from Amazon. The only things you should be buying from NewEgg at this point in time are the memory and (possibly) the video card.
Click to expand...

I don't do a lot of disc to disc, but I like to have the option to when I need to. If I have 2, do I still have to set master & slave drive for SATA? Edit: can I do disc to disc with 1 drive?

As for power, I'm buying for future upgrade since I want to reuse the psu. I technically could reuse my current psu that I just got, but I'm still deciding on what to do with my current comp once I build the new one.

Edit: Rams ordered!
 
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Buy the Antec Earthwatts EA650 if you want to go cheap or the XFX XXX P1650XCAG9 if you want a good power supply.

I doubt that you need a second optical drive, in spite of the fact that it isn't expensive. Even when you go disc-to-disc, most disc burning software "load" the contents of the first disc onto the hard drive before burning that data onto the second disc. That will happen regardless of whether you have one optical drive available or five.

As for what you could do with your old system:

upriverpaddler said:
Lol, I just dug up one of my old posts to copy into another post. And then I see this one while it was still on the clipboard. So here it is again.

#1 Fold - Google [H]orde Team 33 and Google "Folding Farm"
#2 Network Attached Storage - Google NAS DIY
#3 Mail / Web Server - Google Apache Server
#4 Christmas Light Controls - Google Computer Christmas
#5 Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence - Google SETI
#6 Learn Linux - Google Ubuntu and DistroWatch
#7 Sell it - You should have no need to google ebay.
#8 Donate it to a folder - http://www.hardforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=111
#9 Use it as a backup or second PC - Presently I'm at 3 running and 3 unplugged on standby (1 of those will be for #4 in another two months).
#10 Media Jukebox for parties - Google Silverjuke
#11 HTPC (maybe you'll want a new case and TV tuner card) - http://www.hardforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=103
#12 Total Home Automation - Google x-10
#13 Mod it into something new and exciting that will compliment your style - http://www.hardforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=13
#14 Firewalled router - Google m0n0wall
#15 Build an arcade cabinet - Google MAME
#16 Build a carputer - Google Car Computer
#17 Build a USB controlled Dance floor or Bar - http://web.mit.edu/storborg/ddf/
Click to expand...
 
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tiraides said:
Buy the Antec Earthwatts EA650 if you want to go cheap or the XFX XXX P1650XCAG9 if you want a good power supply.

I doubt that you need a second optical drive, in spite of the fact that it isn't expensive. Even when you go disc-to-disc, most disc burning software "load" the contents of the first disc onto the hard drive before burning that data onto the second disc. That will happen regardless of whether you have one optical drive available or five.

As for what you could do with your old system:
Click to expand...

Well, I have 2 options, sell my current system or keep it as a backup. Do you think anyone out there want to buy my current system for cheap? Say if they want to buy it for someone young or old who doesn't need a new and powerful comp? Mine system can do most stuff except for high end games and video editing. It can play games like CSS, TF2, L4D, DODs, etc., photoshop, AutoCAD, and sketchup and anything non-intensive graphics related, and of course internet and such.

Edit: Should I wait another 2 to 3 weeks to order the mobo, since more selection may come out?
 
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Finisher said:
I don't do a lot of disc to disc, but I like to have the option to when I need to. If I have 2, do I still have to set master & slave drive for SATA? Edit: can I do disc to disc with 1 drive?
Click to expand...

SATA cables run on individual channels, so there's no need to worry about Master or Slave drives.

Again, the media burning software will copy the data from the first disc onto the hard drive and then use that stored data to burn an identical copy onto the second disc.

Finisher said:
Well, I have 2 options, sell my current system or keep it as a backup. Do you think anyone out there want to buy my current system for cheap? Say if they want to buy it for someone young or old who doesn't need a new and powerful comp? Mine system can do most stuff except for high end games and video editing. It can play games like CSS, TF2, L4D, DODs, etc., photoshop, AutoCAD, and sketchup and anything non-intensive graphics related, and of course internet and such.

Edit: Should I wait another 2 to 3 weeks to order the mobo, since more selection may come out?
Click to expand...

Price checks aren't allowed here, but if you plan on selling your old computer here, considering selling the parts separately.

The board that I picked for you is the "bare minimum" in terms of specifications you should be looking for in a Socket 1155 P67 motherboard. That said, it should fit your needs just fine. If you can live with that particular board, get it; but at the very least, wait until the P67 boards are being sold at Amazon (as I forgot the full list of retailers that don't charge California residents any sales tax on their online orders).
 
The MSI board has better features, but it costs a bit more. The few places that currently offer it sell it for around $200.

But this is the first time that I've looked at some of the P67 boards that are arriving (very) soon. I'll offer a more concrete recommendation when I have more time to look at what's available for sale.
 
Danny Bui said:
The seperate video card should work alongside, not with, but alongside the integrated GPU. Basically means that you can power more monitors via the onboard video if you want to.

Don't worry about the DX10/11 stuff.

EDIT: beaten to the punch!
Click to expand...

Why not worry about the DX10/11?
 
Danny Bui said:
Because more than likely you're not gaming on it. So its of little concern to a gamer.
Click to expand...

Games like BFBC2 and COD MW2 still on DX 9? I thought 10, and specifically 11, are becoming the standard.

Edit: http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTI5MzgzOTUyOENDWExYbUthdEpfMV8yMV9sLmpwZw==

So are they saying that i7 is preferred for games like BFBC2, CODMW2, L4D2, or they i5 with graphic card can do the same? Seems like the diagram showing the i5 without a separate vid card.
 
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I just realized that there are different versions of SB i5. The K series is meant for overclocking, so if I'm not planning to OC, should I get the 2500, 2500S, or 2500T?

Edit: There are 4 types of SB i5: 2500K, 2500S, 2500T, and 2500
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4083/...-core-i7-2600k-i5-2500k-core-i3-2100-tested/2

I might go with the 2500, but if its only $20 cheaper than the K series then I might go for the K. If I get the K series, I might consider learning how to OC. Seems the S and T version is weaker and slower. The i5 2400 doesn't look too bad. Thoughts? Comments?
 
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You're making things too complicated for yourself. Stick with the i5-2500K unless the "normal" i5-2500 costs $25 less. You can always decide on whether or not you'll overclock later.

VT stands for Virtual Technology, and it's important if you plan on using Virtual Machines (VM) in the future. If you're not worried about VMs, don't worry about VT.
 
tiraides said:
You're making things too complicated for yourself. Stick with the i5-2500K unless the "normal" i5-2500 costs $25 less. You can always decide on whether or not you'll overclock later.

VT stands for Virtual Technology, and it's important if you plan on using Virtual Machines (VM) in the future. If you're not worried about VMs, don't worry about VT.
Click to expand...

Ok i5 2500k it is. How long you think I should wait to get the cpu and mobo for it? You think the price will be cheaper after 3 to 4 weeks?
 
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Finisher said:
Ok i5 2500k it is. How long you think I should we to get the cpu and mobo for it? You think the price will be cheaper after 3 to 4 weeks?
Click to expand...

The price will normalize 2-3 weeks. More than likely there might be a little bit of price gouging.
 
Danny Bui said:
GET IT ASAP!
Click to expand...

Looks like its too late.. Doesnt go on sale for 3 days, but the price went up to 250 bucks..

Edit: NM... thats weird they show the before savings price in an Add all big like that.
 
tiraides said:
Socket 2011, aka Ivy Bridge, is the slated replacement for the Socket 1366 Core i7 processors and the X58 chipset. Yes, the older Socket 1366 platform becomes "outdated" upon Ivy Bridge's arrival, but it will take at least six months after its arrival before Socket 2011 fully supplants Socket 1366 as the "enthusiast" lineup of choice.
Click to expand...

Just curious as to where you got that. I've never heard that socket 2011 was ivy bridge. I've always been under the assumption that ivy bridge was the 22nm die shrink of sandy bridge due out about a year from now that will still be socket 1155 - much like how westmere didn't introduce a new socket but was a die shrink with new cpu's for already existing sockets.

I'm looking forward to socket 2011 but just never heard that it was ivy bridge and was hoping for some clarification on that.
 
You're right, modulus: Ivy Bridge is the 22nm die shrink, or Intel's next "tick." Socket 2011 is the "enthusiast" LGA socket for Sandy Bridge, which will consist of Core i7 and Core i7 Extreme processors.
 
bastage said:
Looks like its too late.. Doesnt go on sale for 3 days, but the price went up to 250 bucks..

Edit: NM... thats weird they show the before savings price in an Add all big like that.
Click to expand...

its to weed out the math/eyesight challenged. :p
 
tiraides said:
You're right, modulus: Ivy Bridge is the 22nm die shrink, or Intel's next "tick." Socket 2011 is the "enthusiast" LGA socket for Sandy Bridge, which will consist of Core i7 and Core i7 Extreme processors.
Click to expand...


thanks
 
cmdrdredd said:
It's easier to work in a full tower, just like I said. I prefer them and I recommend them when space for the tower is not a concern.
Click to expand...

Technically, yes. But those two cases cost $50 more than equally roomy full-tower cases cost.
 
Finisher said:
lol

Since I'm there at the MC, you guys think its a good deal to get the Asus p878 mobo too for $160 or only get the cpu first?
Click to expand...

bring a printout of your newegg cart and ask them to pricematch anything they have in-stock. they will if they can, if not, just get from newegg or wherever u were gonna get them from.
 
enginurd said:
bring a printout of your newegg cart and ask them to pricematch anything they have in-stock. they will if they can, if not, just get from newegg or wherever u were gonna get them from.
Click to expand...

I thought MC has cheaper prices than Newegg, unless some items are on sale on Neweggs that are cheaper.
 
Can someone tell me their experience with Micro Center. I know that experience will vary depends on people and the location, but I want to know how competitive it is when MC release new products. Like will there be long ass line that I need to get there an hour or 2 early to get in? Granted, MC is limiting 1 per customer, so I don't have to worry about people hording the stuff, but not sure how many will show up. I never been to a MC or try to buy new computer parts on the first day of release. Thanks.
 
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Finisher said:
Can someone tell me their experience with Micro Center. I know that experience will vary depends on people and the location, but I want to know how competitive it is when MC release new products. Like will there be long ass line that I need to get there an hour or 2 early to get in? Granted, MC is limiting 1 per customer, so I don't have to worry about people hording the stuff, but not sure how many will show up. I never been to a MC or try to buy new computer parts on the first day of release. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You're going to the Silicon Valley MC which is geek-central so yes there is guaranteed to be lines of nerds like us waiting outside for opening time. Hard to say how many they will have in stock. Could be a wasted 1 hour journey...or you could come away happy. Its a gamble.
 
mattchapman said:
You're going to the Silicon Valley MC which is geek-central so yes there is guaranteed to be lines of nerds like us waiting outside for opening time. Hard to say how many they will have in stock. Could be a wasted 1 hour journey...or you could come away happy. Its a gamble.
Click to expand...

Yes im going to the Silicon Valley/Santa Clara one. Do you know if their instant in-store discount really instant or we have to mail something in? I tried calling them today but no one picked up. I'm going to try to call again on Friday.
 
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I think my list is almost finalized

CPU: Sandy Bridge i5 2500k $180 @ MC

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 $160 @ MC
http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=Qx3PdnZI9Pq9BcIU&templete=2

ASUS P8P67 Pro
http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=HMMvTCuBcZLfu2YL&templete=2

Any reason why I should go for the Pro over the basic version?

Video Card: I’m hoping this vid card price drop further. Probably going to order from Amazon to avoid the tax, and it comes with a rebate too. Price listed before rebate.

$170 EVGA 01G-P3-1366-TR GeForce GTX 460 SE (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-...WLB4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1294188680&sr=8-5

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._GDDR5_PCI-Express_2.0-_-14-130-591-_-Product


Memory: $70 G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-10600CL9D-8GBNT Ordered
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=3891137&SID=194r0

PSU: Going to downgrade to 650W to keep near my budget.
$90 Antec TruePower New TP-650 650W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371021&Tpk=psu

$90 CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005&cm_re=psu-_-17-139-005-_-Product

$88 XFX XXX Edition 650 Watt Power Supply P1650XCAG9
http://www.amazon.com/XFX-Watt-Powe...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1294189288&sr=1-15


HD: Samsung 1 TB Spinpoint 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.5 inch Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive HD103SJ $60 Ordered & Received
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Spinp...?ie=UTF8&qid=1294185388&sr=8-1&tag=atmlinr-20

Case: $140
COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master...UQAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1294186447&sr=8-1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

CD/DVD Drive: $20 Ordered & Received
ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 1.5MB Cache SATA 24X Burner LightScribe Support – OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135221

Sound Card: Going to use mobo sound first.

OS: Windows 7 Home Full OEM $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...116754&cm_re=windows_7-_-32-116-754-_-Product

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=481918071&pf_rd_i=507846

AntiVirus: ESET Nod32 Antivirus V4 1PC Fr/En $40
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832752008&cm_re=nod32-_-32-752-008-_-Product


Estimated spending: $1064
Currently spent: $150
Budget: $1000
 
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