Everex XT5000T Support thread

Since Everex forum is no longer active I thought I'd post this here.

As I've recently moved out of state, I don't have access to my PC at the moment and must resort to using my Stepnote XT5000T laptop. Other than it occasionally not recognizing the wireless card, I've noticed it is overheating more than it usually did when I used it two years ago. The CPU currently idles at 80c-- hot enough to cause even videos on youtube to stutter constantly (and certainly too hot to even consider running video games.)

Any ideas on how I can lower the CPU temp? I read lowering voltage helps and I downloaded RMClock but can't seem to figure out how to adjust the voltage setting?:confused::confused: Can someone explain how I go about this? (Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to overclocking.)


Thanks.
 
Hitchens said:
Since Everex forum is no longer active I thought I'd post this here.

As I've recently moved out of state, I don't have access to my PC at the moment and must resort to using my Stepnote XT5000T laptop. Other than it occasionally not recognizing the wireless card, I've noticed it is overheating more than it usually did when I used it two years ago. The CPU currently idles at 80c-- hot enough to cause even videos on youtube to stutter constantly (and certainly too hot to even consider running video games.)

Any ideas on how I can lower the CPU temp? I read lowering voltage helps and I downloaded RMClock but can't seem to figure out how to adjust the voltage setting?:confused::confused: Can someone explain how I go about this? (Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to overclocking.)


Thanks.
Click to expand...

Make sure the vents aren't clogged up. Take off the bottom cover and clear out all the dust bunnies.
 
Wow I forgot all about this part of the forums. Its been a while. I only had my Everex XT5000T for about six months (bought it new a few months after it launched) and it slide off of my couch and cracked the lcd screen. I put it up in my closet and forgot all about it until now! I hooked it up to an external monitor and it still works just fine. Anyone know where I could get a new LCD screen for it and would it even be worth it to do so?
 
Namuh said:
Wow I forgot all about this part of the forums. Its been a while. I only had my Everex XT5000T for about six months (bought it new a few months after it launched) and it slide off of my couch and cracked the lcd screen. I put it up in my closet and forgot all about it until now! I hooked it up to an external monitor and it still works just fine. Anyone know where I could get a new LCD screen for it and would it even be worth it to do so?
Click to expand...
You could probably get a new LCD screen off eBay. Costs about ~$200 off eBay.
 
Hey Danny Bui it's you . My you're everywhere. You helped me piece together my new gaming rig last week in the General Hardware forum heh heh. Thanks! Okay back on topic....hmm $200? Not worth it, I will just leave it hooked up to an external monitor and let my kids play on it!
 
Namuh said:
Hey Danny Bui it's you . My you're everywhere. You helped me piece together my new gaming rig last week in the General Hardware forum heh heh. Thanks! Okay back on topic....hmm $200? Not worth it, I will just leave it hooked up to an external monitor and let my kids play on it!
Click to expand...

LOL! Well I like to be involved :)

Anyway, yeah, that external monitor idea is the better plan. At least when the laptop dies, you have another monitor on hand. And a new monitor can be as low as $90.
 
YellowSnow said:
I've got my dead 5300 sitting here if anyone wants to make me an offer. Worked perfectly until it died. Now when you turn it on, the HDD activity lite blinks slowly, as does the activity LED on the optical. No POST and nothing on the screen. It's got 4GB of Crucial DDR2-800 installed. I'll include the OEM stick too. $75 shipped after I pull the HDD?
Click to expand...

Sold the RAM, now it's got 1GB and no HDD.

Anyone want it for $30 shipped?
 
Namuh said:
Wow I forgot all about this part of the forums. Its been a while. I only had my Everex XT5000T for about six months (bought it new a few months after it launched) and it slide off of my couch and cracked the lcd screen. I put it up in my closet and forgot all about it until now! I hooked it up to an external monitor and it still works just fine. Anyone know where I could get a new LCD screen for it and would it even be worth it to do so?
Click to expand...

See my post, above this one. I think the screens are the same. :)
 
I am installing a Turion TL-64 in my 5000t and need to know the best BIOS update to install. As it is, the BIOS doesn't recognize the CPU and will not boot into windows. And before anyone says search, I already did, too much to sift through. Anyone?
 
Anyone have a mirror for a c1c BIOS update? All I can find point back to the everex site.

MajorDomo said:
I am installing a Turion TL-64 in my 5000t and need to know the best BIOS update to install. As it is, the BIOS doesn't recognize the CPU and will not boot into windows. And before anyone says search, I already did, too much to sift through. Anyone?
Click to expand...
 
My xt5000T died with the gpu overheating. Need to part it out. Anybody interested? send me a PM.
 
I've been dicking around with replacing the CPU and put everyting back together using TIM, replacing what was there from the factory. No matter what I do, I get an automatic shutdown after about 5 minutes and I'm thinking an overheating issue. Any corrobration on this or other thoughts?
 
Major is this with the tl-64??? if so I would try with the stock tl-50 cpu, to rule out if something is wrong with your tl-64.

Fan working?
 
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I need to update the bios before it will recognize the TL-64, so I replaced the TL-50 to accomplish that. Now I can't get it to boot into windows without shutting down. Sounds like a heat issue to me.
 
I finally got around to disassembling the laptop - took an hour, but everything is spread out on my work desk.

I just need to find a good source for copper to make the custom heatsink.

I'll put everything up on my website once I start doing this again, but it should be interesting.

I'm basically looking to cool this whole laptop 10C below stock temps with 5v fans and a custom heatsink assembly. Before reassembly, I'll do a paintjob. Possibly some LEDs.

Anyone with replacement parts for the laptop PM me, I'll see if I can use anything.
 
Anyone know where I can locate the motherboard schematics for the XT5000T laptop? I'm having difficulty locating the CMOS Battery and Jumper to do a bios reset needed to clear the power on password.

Per previous replies, there are some pictures of the motherboard - if anyone can point me to the right area, that would be great.

Thanks

Edit: Went to the http://www.pcambrosia.com/xt5000t/ website and it only has a diagram for the bottom interior, top diagram doesn't have a link. Any ideas?
 
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If I remember correctly. You will have to teardown to get at it. For a quick glimpse as to where it is take the bottom cover off and shine a light to the right of the gpu and you will see the battery, encased in black. The pic only shows the connector and wires, not the battery itself.

Couple of other things that crossed my mind were
1 flashing the BIOS will sometimes reset the CMOS
2 There are four Dip switches directly below the GPU HS, and if I remember correctly the right combo killed power to the CMOS. Search back through this thread and see if you can find that info. I cannot remember if it was this thread or somewhere on the old Everex board. Check the thread below, also. The old Everex board is long gone but you maybe able to get some answers on the dip switches by pm'ing B34ST1Y.
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1031725457&postcount=1426


 
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MysterHide said:
Anyone know where I can locate the motherboard schematics for the XT5000T laptop? I'm having difficulty locating the CMOS Battery and Jumper to do a bios reset needed to clear the power on password.

Per previous replies, there are some pictures of the motherboard - if anyone can point me to the right area, that would be great.

Thanks

Edit: Went to the http://www.pcambrosia.com/xt5000t/ website and it only has a diagram for the bottom interior, top diagram doesn't have a link. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the original site did not include the PDF or a link for it so I was never able to put that up............
 
Hey all--I have been coming to this thread on and off for a few years when I have issues, but now I think I am kind of screwed and looking for help.

My computer was doing the ever-annoying random freeze/random blue screen of death on and off for a while, but the other day it did it several times in a row. Then, it gave me the option of startup repair, which essentially reformats all of the core files from an image on the hard drive, and leaves the rest of your files alone.

In the middle of this process... the computer restarted itself.

Now, it is severely brain damaged. Windows tells me it didn't complete its install and needs to start over, but when I attempt to begin "Startup Repair" again, it just doesn't work. it tries, but it just flashes back to the option screen of Normal Startup and Startup Repair.

This wouldn't be too much of an issue if my CDRom worked and I could put in the Vista CD, but that died for no good reason about a year ago.

Any suggestions? External CD Drives with USBs don't seem to work well, because the BIOS i have (un-updated since I got it in 2007) doesn't really give me much to work with.

How can I boot it? Can I do some sort of network boot? Any way I can get it to recognize the external CD drive, or another hard drive some how?
 
Thats interesting, I never had an issue booting for a USB device. Try using a thumb drive with a BIOS update on it.

OR, just though of it - take a desktop SATA DVD drive and hook the sata up to the laptop (powering it from the desktop).

Does anyone know what interface this laptop uses for its disc drive?
 
Hey, is anyone parting out their laptop - I'm looking to fix mine up?

I'll take a broken one provided that the case is intact & the screen works (no dead pixels or scratches).

My screen has always had this dead pixel in the top right - barely noticeable, but frustrating to me.

Also, I will be posting a disassembly / reassembly photo-guide up here in a week when we launch our website. Should be helpful for those who still have this laptop & want to take it apart. Surprisingly I didn't loose any screws! The only issue I have right now is the heatsink don't make proper contact with the GPU/CPU/Northbridge because I replaced the thick thermal pad with AS5....

Better thermal dissipation, unfortunately, thats only if I physically hold the heatsink onto the CPU - I'm sure that can't be good : )
 
Hey guys,

Just trying to gauge interest; I just bought a newish laptop and I was going to sell my xt5000t (2gb RAM, functions perfectly, never had any issues, never had to bake it or anything lol) to my buddy for $200.

Figured since there are real hardcore fans of this model here I'd at least mention it before parting ways with it; I assume this lappy's time has come and gone but I'm shocked at how this thread still gets replies, so you never know.

Thanks guys.
 
andy A, were you one of the people experimenting with the Siemens BIOS?
Our XT500T had a European variation, something Siemens I think. A couple of people updated to that models BIOS. I think they need a special flash module, possibly Pheonix found at the Siemens site.
 
EvilWizardGlick said:
andy A, were you one of the people experimenting with the Siemens BIOS?
Our XT500T had a European variation, something Siemens I think. A couple of people updated to that models BIOS. I think they need a special flash module, possibly Pheonix found at the Siemens site.
Click to expand...

Evil, no I never got to experiment with the Fujitsu BIOS although there were times I really came close. It has been so long ago and I cannot remember those who did. I do remember it had to be forced flashed though, but cannot remember the steps to do it. Something about adding a cmd switch when you got to the actual flashing. Want to say it could not be done in windows either. I would just google force flashing BIOS.

The Fuji models that were the same was the Amilio Xa 1526 and Amilio Xa 1527 for the Xt5000 and Amilio Xa 2528 and Amilio Xa 2529 for the Xt5300.

There are only a few BIOS versions now listed on the Fuji site. I think I saved all the old ones somewhere, if you are interested I will check back in my files and see if I can find them.

Wish I could be more helpful,
 
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Just a FYI after i installed a very thin copper shim onto my gpu, with a crappy cooling pad blowing directly onto the gpu heatsink i get a max idle temp of 130F! i used the fourth disabled usb port as my power source for the cooling pad.
 
Hey guys I found someone who fixed my lappy... =) it's up and running now... I just got it back today and I'm going to reinstall the system on the hard drive because. Turned into an external since the lappy was down... When I do the test on the system I'll post the place...
 
I loaded the Original OS and did all the updates last night and everything works perfectly. If you guys want to get your video fix these are the people who fixed mine: Avon PC Pitstop. I had to pay to get it to them. They charged $70.00 to fix it and that included the shipping cost to get it back to me. G/L guys and TTYL...
 
allbeengone said:
Just a FYI after i installed a very thin copper shim onto my gpu, with a crappy cooling pad blowing directly onto the gpu heatsink i get a max idle temp of 130F! i used the fourth disabled usb port as my power source for the cooling pad.
Click to expand...


Good to know the 4th hidden/disabled usb port is actually power-connected. But this raises the question of: is your cooling pad rated at or under 5V/500mA (2.5W)? if it's rated higher, it most likely is running under-powered, as that's all a USB port can put out.

130F is about 54.4C. That's okayish, but you don't mention what your room (ambient) temp is? If your ambient is below 30C, you've got a heat-dissipation problem. Why?
In a previous post where I detailed how I made a very quick and simple fix w/ aluminum; folded & compressed aluminum foil sheet between GPU heatsink & heatpipe, to replace the gap left by the original crappy thermalpad, without even disassembling anything (meaning there's still the crappy thermal pad between GPU & heatsink over it), I got my GPU idle temps down to 58-59C, and that was in ambient temps of 32-35C (hot summers here, no A/C), without cooling pad or extra fans whatsoever. Ah, and cover on! Another XT'er (graybandit) with an upgraded CPU (more heat) also tried it and corroborated my experience.
I believe one could get even better results if the gap was filled with a just-thick-enough copper pad in favor of the folded/compressed aluminum sheet. Not too thick though or u may risk bending the heat pipe, or leaving a gap over your CPU.

As to the "blowing directly onto gpu heatsink", you also don't mention whether the cover is off or not, and your CPU idle temp. It makes a difference.
You may want to bear in mind the following factors:
If the cover is off:
1. You're more likely to build up dust in there much quicker, causing a heat problem to come back to haunt you much sooner.
2. With the laptop sitting right over the cooling pad and with not much room in terms of crevices/openings for exhausting the intake, ur cooling pad's fan will slow down to about the speed of the exhaust fan which blows the air out of the side. This means, whatever max CFM the cooling pad's fan can push in will equivalent to the CFM of the exhaust fan - the limit of what it can push out. You can't make "positive pressure" in such small area with conventional fans running at few thousand RPM).
3. If there are gaps where the air being pushed in can escape from (besides the exhaust fan area), you may want to seriously consider where from! You really don't want to lose the directional air-flow per design. Note original design of the back cover has very narrow slits (with graphite filter on underside) which partially covers the heatsink near the GPU - though not very well thought-out (more on that later).
The directional air-flow and exhaust is much more important than simply blowing air-in. Consider a mid-tower ATX case with 4 intake fans (blowing in), but none exhausting (blowing out). Air escapes from all different holes/crevices, but does not really help much. if 2 of the 4 fans where mounted right below PSU (which is typically at the top/back of the case) to blow air out, you'd have much cooler case temp (closer to room temp). Why? because the hottest area of the case is in that area (below PSU, near CPU). Same thing as adding slot exhaust cooler right above (or below) a hot PCI(-e)/AGP video card. Matter of fact, a case with only 2 top/rear exhaust fans is much better than one with 2 bottom/front intake fans. Surely, CPU/GPU heatsink fans blow air over/into the fins of the HS, but the hot air emitted from them is still inside the case, and that air needs recycling. So case cooling is more efficient when focusing on exhausting that air from that hottest area (as much as possible) faster. Side fans on many cases do blow in, given there are exhaust fans in back (and preferably intake fans in front as well), to cause "turbulence" in air-flow which supposedly also helps.

So, I believe what would be best is:
1. make sure there's good conduction between GPU heatsink and the heat pipe going over CPU out to exhaust fan. This is almost as important as making sure the gap between GPU and heatsink is properly filled and well-conducting of heat.
2. It may help a lot if the small rectangular shaped slits on the back cover are widened a bit or perhaps cut-out completely into a square hole - calculatingly over or slightly to the right of the exact exact area covering the GPU (take cover off and look from different angles under the heatsink to see the edges of the GPU) - and having the generic graphite filter replaced with something that could allow better airflow, without excess dust, or even better dust-filtering. But I'd be cautious about the material used. Should not easily come in contact with heatsink, and better be non-conductive and preferably anti-static.

Hopefully I'll try this soon and post pics, at least of the modification of the back cover which I have in mind, once I get my GPU reflowed. :) Got a hotair / "SMD rework station" (Kada852) for cheap waaay back, but never actually put it to use, yet, and laptop has been sitting in closet ever since. Got caught up with life and stuff, and never got to find liquid flux which is key to do the hotair reflow, given I do not have skills/equipment needed for a proper 'BGA rework'.
Will also try to find copper material suitable for use as pads between GPU/heatsink and between heatsink/pipe. Otherwise will have to find a really thick copper wire and hammer it to make a thin enough sheet :D
 
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I have 2 XT5000T's & a currently non-working XT5300T. I'll be doing some video guides on upgrading, fixing GPUs, and such when I can find a heatgun. I think Lowes is the only place that has one buy me. Big Lots & Wally World no longer carry them.

Oh, and if the guy who is trying to fit the XT5300T Motherboard in a XT5000T case, the XT5300T's heatsink & fan is completely different. They will line up with all the screw holes, but the grill is larger in length & width (as is the blower fan). Also, one of the fan holes will not have a peg on the board, but it can be secured without it. Everything lines up correctly & the fan pushes more CFM.

Also, most laptop cooling pads elevate the laptop enough to allow the air to circulate back out. I've been using the Bytecc Aluminum laptop cooler since I got my laptop. There are some other options out there now, but its still pretty decent. Bytecc's customer service is very good, though. They sent out 4 replacement fans when the ones from mine started to expire, USPS First Class.
 
Meleniumshane90 said:
I'll be doing some video guides on upgrading, fixing GPUs, and such when I can find a heatgun. I think Lowes is the only place that has one buy me. Big Lots & Wally World no longer carry them.
Click to expand...

An alternative is a cheap (but decent) SMD rework station like the Aoyue or the Kada (either the standard models, or the digitial one). You get much more flexible heat and airflow ranges, at least 3 different sized nozzles, and a iron (solder gun) with a pretty decent fine tip. Parts are also cheap and abundant online.

Though if you operate in the US, make sure you're buying from a site catering to US market; 110V input voltage, otherwise you'd have to also invest in a power transformer that could cost as much as the station itself.

Aoyue 850 (110V input) for $100
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6263/0
Same at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-850A-Hot-Rework-Station/dp/B000I5JXA0/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

Aoyue 852 (Digital, 110V) for $150
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-852A-Digital-Rework-Station/dp/B000HDDXY0/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

You can probably find cheaper stations, but I can only recommend the Aoyue or Kada (tried and tested, and very popular here). I personally got a 852 standard (not digital). The only differences between the digital and the standard is LCD for precise adjustment, vs a knob with preset heat/airflow ranges, the Aoyue digital model also comes with a vacuum pickup tool, which is useful if you actually want to pickup the chip off the board to do a complete BGA reball :) There are vids on youtube showing the process, but I don't recommend it unless you have a lot of experience as it can be very difficult even if you use liquid solder (or paste) and hot air to form the new balls in place (after cleaning the chip and board) rather than conventional solder & gun/iron method.
Edit: I recently learned that there are actually solder-balls and stencil kits specially made for BGA, to make life easier. It's still an involved process.

To give you an idea of what's involved in a "manual" BGA reball:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JB1InDsWCjQ&feature=fvw

The alternative (and easiest method) is seeping liquid flux through the ball-grid-array behind the GPU chip, prior to the reflow, to make sure you get rid of any possible oxidization there, and hopefully for a more "permanent reduction of failure rate" :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2R_NqF5wAc&feature=related

Of course if I'd do a complete reball work on the chip, I'd get rid of the RoHS solder, and use good ol' leaded one.
 
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Yeah, I'm familiar with the BGA reballing machines. But for $20-25, a similar job can be accomplished. It's really not worth investing $100+ if you're only planning on repairing a few.

Now if you plan on repairing them professionally, sure - I considered doing that for fun, but then you run into issues with people having issues down the line & coming back pissed. 90-day to 6-month warranties would be good. 90-days seems to be the standard, with a re-repair if an issue arises again. Obviously writing up a decent contract would be appropriate.
 
Followup on my post #2192 (which was in reply to: allbeengone):

After reviewing "everex_stepnote_xt5000t_placement_diagram_bottom.pdf" (from mirror kindly provided by TANWare), I realize that the vent holes on the back cover are not even close to being on top of GPU, but the northbridge!! that explains why most of the heatsink visible after removing backcover is thinner (and with shorter-fins) that the rest which is covered under the case. Come to think of it, the GPU is also very close to the battery (which can get quite warm as well). That gets me thinking of not only wanting to modifiy the backover and copper-plating the GPU (under the heatsink), but maybe also modifying or replacing the heatsink and/or heat pipe design.
 
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I just bought a heatgun, so I'll try to do a video tomorrow when I get home.

As far as the heatsink assembly goes, I have several heatsinks I've been working with, but I haven't gotten a chance to solder them together with a heatpipe or anything else. There isn't enough copper in the original design. I'll have to see how the 5300T handles if I can get it working.

What I'm actually planning on doing with my XT5000T is to replace the stock bottom cover with a sheet of acrylic, custom fitted to allow airflow for the custom heatsink assembly I'm working on, as well as provide more access to the components inside than the original door allowed. I already cut open a slot so I can access the entire GPU, When I get a chance this upcoming week, I'll do a few videos & take some photos working with the laptop.
 
Meleniumshane90,

Just wanted to note that Acrylic (including plexiglass) is very prone to static buildup, so you may want to consider investing in a static dissipative coating to prevent possible ESD if you do decide to go that route.
http://k-mac-plastics.net/cast-acrylic-anti-static-sheet.htm

Now when you say you cut open a slot to access the whole GPU (I assume you mean the whole NB/GPU/Video-RAM heatsink), did you also implement something so that it can be securely covered again (with latches/screws/etc)? If so, I'd really appreciate you showing what you did. A pic or two will do :)

And since you have the beast disassembled:
Is the bottom side of the large heat-sink entirely flat, or are there any dips/elevations between the areas that cover NB/GPU/Video-RAM?
Are the NB & GPU of the same height off the board?
Were the blue-pads on top of the NB & GPU about the same thickness?
How high do you estimate the gap left between heatsink & GPU/NB after removing the blue-pads (in decimal millimeters)?
Was the heat-sink actually touching the video-ram?

Sorry about the loads of questions. I figure we're trying to accomplish the same goal, with different ideas.

I've read an earlier post of yours about the idea of "lapping" heatsinks. I'm thinking of lapping the (Al) heatsink to mount on top of a copper plate cut-out to exactly same layout, drilling 3 small holes in the copper to align with the screw holes, and possibly making small latches - or just epoxy/solder - sticking out from the 2 (unused) big holes that are in the area between NB/GPU, for a snug fit.

Drilling or cutting vent slots or holes over the GPU area which is partly under back-panel and the actual casing is also desirable, for better passive cooling; more air-flow in and directly above GPU area.

After that, I'm pondering two different ideas to better employ the active cooling HSF in place (at exhaust):

1. A copper bridge/latch from the new copper bottom at the corner where the CPU heat-pipe rests (bypassing the aluminum altogether). Though that will contribute to cooler GPU/NB temps, it will also account for higher CPU temps, which is undesirable given that critical temp of CPU (95C) is 10C lower than that of GPU (105C).

or

2. A copper rod or even better a heat-pipe from the corner of heat-sink which is adjacent to GPU/Video-RAM, running out to the side vent (to the right of the fan), and stuck into the gap to the right side (and perhaps also over the gap on top) of the copper-fins at the exhaust. Though this will not be a very simple task given how tight of an area we have to work with there, so some bending/molding work may be needed as well as electrically shielding the small parts on the board en route and/or making a little U-shaped epoxy bridges to make sure the copper does not touch the board anywhere.

I made a couple diagrams over part of the "everex_stepnote_xt5000t_placement_diagram_bottom.pdf" to give a general idea

First diagram to give idea about positioning of heatsink:

xt5000theatshiftmod.png


Second diagram is a rough draft illustrating my idea #2 for actively shifting the heat:

xt5000theatshiftmod2.png


Edit:
After googling paint off my mouse while researching for ideas on a DIY heat-pipe and design rationale in general (psi-difference vs. liquid/pipe volume & boiling points, phase-change, wicks & capillary action) , I realize that even though feasible, it's quite a tricky task at the size needed here, especially when it comes to getting minuscule volume of water (<0.6%) to start boiling and evaporating to kick air out and immediately sealing it shut. [1] [2]
And while there are different possible sources of heat-pipes [3], and even companies like Enertron that sell them relatively cheap (ranging anywhere form $15-$25 depending on size/length u need), bending and/or flattening a standard (round & straight) heat-pipe - if even possible without breaking it - will most likely ruin its design effectiveness: [4] [5]
Knowing that a heat pipe ideally outperforms a solid copper rod of same diameter/length 80 times, I think I'll stick with idea #1 for a start and see how it goes :)
 
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Hi jasmineaura,

I've been thinking about how to better manage the heat issue in my XT5000 as well after I attempt a reflow repair (not sure if I'll try the heat gun method or get a rework station or see if a local PCB house will look at it for me).

Aside from better airflow using a laptop cooler outside the case, I also wanted to enhance the thermal transfer system inside.

The most likely candidate I've seen so far is a "Thermally Conductive Pyrolytic Graphite Sheet".

DigiKey has a product training module here: http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/Panasonic/PGS_NoAudio/PGS_NoAudio.html

The sheets are available with adhesives and insulation options, is certainly thin enough to fit, and can be cut to shape easily with scissors.

My plan is to bridge between the CPU, GPU and fan/radiator assemblies. In addition to conducting along it's length to the fan/radiator, it can also possibly act as a passive heat radiator/spreader to the case.

What do you think - does this sort of solution seem reasonable?
 
That's not going to dissipate heat or help conduct heat throughout the heatsink assembly - It's more likely to trap & retain heat.

The best way to dissipate heat without modifying the heatsink assembly itself, like I am doing, is to improve airflow (say by cutting grills on the cover & putting a non-conductive mesh grill) and to replace the thermal pads with copper shims & Arctic Silver 5. Also, a BIOS update to 1.0D will leave the fans at 100%.


I'll get some photos up tomorrow - I didn't have a chance to use my heatgun on the 5300T yet & want to do it all at once. I'll likely just make an article & forum thread on our website - just to separate it from everything here & provide a one-stop resource for the info.
 
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