Doom III: Project Mars City (Comments Thread)

CrimsonSky said:
I wouldnt use a DFI under any circumstances--the MSI is pretty respectable, especially with the onboard soundblaster 7.1which eliminates the need for a PCI sound card. Unless you missed the post, I think a dual 120MM rad will be fine. BTW I like Gay ram with tight timing and LL---so.. :D
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Heh. Today's "enthusiasts" typically have more money than common sense. And you certainly aren't lacking in the former department ;).

I have nothing against MSI myself, I had a good experience with Neo Platinum (unlike many people who got dead boards), but DFI is just better for overclocking. vcore up to 2.11 and vdimm up to 4.0 without any mods is pretty damn good. But the brand preference I'll never understand. Corsair is probably the biggest brand in the memory department, and one of the worst performing while at it. As far as overclocking goes, at least.
 
For me it's more than just about the OC numbers--Stability, reliability are all important over slight performance gains--With my work I've always tried to have a balance of interesting design, performance and reliability. I also happen to appreciate the enthusiast/modding oriented philosophies of both MSI and Corsair--who have both been sponsors of my work for years. ;)

I have the utmost respect for people who know hardware from a performance-tweaking perspective and I do appreciate the suggestions!
 
CrimsonSky said:
:edit: 2x 512GB is the plan, taking into consideration the AMD ;)
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that's a lot of memory (a terabyte?) sounds like fun. you might have to run linux with bigmem support for that, though. windows won't go that high.



right... anyway, looks like some very nice specs. have you looked at the dual opteron w/ SLI abit motherboard that's coming out? it'd work with 2gb (4x 512) and be a lot faster, at least while multitasking. it doesn't need ECC/REG either. just something to consider.

also, what brand of video card are you going to be running?
 
yeah but a single opteron is not as fast as an fx55, and dual opteron would be pointless for games (and oc less well)
f
 
Nice, no ones mentioned the sound system so i will.

You'll love those absolutely. I have the Z-5300 and they rock, even only only my 4.1 soundcard (though and audigy 2 zs pp would be nice) :p.

And i htink the 5500 have like double the wattage.
 
CrimsonSky said:
:edit: 2x 512GB is the plan, taking into consideration the AMD ;)
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lol..missed that the first time through because I my brain knew what he meant to say but good catch rogue_jedi
 
CrimsonSky said:
For me it's more than just about the OC numbers--Stability, reliability are all important over slight performance gains--With my work I've always tried to have a balance of interesting design, performance and reliability. I also happen to appreciate the enthusiast/modding oriented philosophies of both MSI and Corsair--who have both been sponsors of my work for years. ;)

I have the utmost respect for people who know hardware from a performance-tweaking perspective and I do appreciate the suggestions!
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Well, then see if Corsair will give you any of that BH-5 they stored up for RMA purposes. :D
 
Updated:::

AMD Athlon 64 FX-55
MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum SLI
Fujitsu 147GB 15,000RPM Ultra SCSI320 80pin Hard Drive
Adaptec Single-Channel SCSI PCI Card Model "19160"
CORSAIR XMS, Xtra-Low Latency 2-2-2-5, 184-Pin 1GB(512MBx2)
Dual NVIDIA 6800 Ultra PCI-Express
Plextor 16X Dual Layer DVD+/-RW SATA Drive
>>PC Power & Cooling Turbo Cool 850 Delux SLI PSU
SONY SDM-P234/B 23" Wide Screen Flat Panel LCD
Logitech Z-5500 5.1 Digital Speaker System w/Digital Hardware Decoder
 
So, can I ask what it is about DFI that you don't like, aside from MSI always being good to you?
 
for the 23" screen, would it not be far better to get a 20" one....
better response times (maybe, but your one could have 16ms)
but also, unless you run at 1920xwhatever it is, then the picture quality is far less good.
therefore, you will be less able to have higher aa and af settings.....
f
 
uzor said:
So, can I ask what it is about DFI that you don't like, aside from MSI always being good to you?
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Several factors--Better onboard audio, stability etc.

While this is one example, there are similar results with other reviews:

"Once again we saw a DFI motherboard fail when it comes to long-term stress testing. By “long-term,” we mean in excess of 24 hours. While most of the latest heavy hitters from the likes of ABIT, ASUS, and MSI will literally run error free for days under 100% load, that is not the experience we have had with DFI motherboards."
 
freddiepm61 said:
for the 23" screen, would it not be far better to get a 20" one....
better response times (maybe, but your one could have 16ms)
but also, unless you run at 1920xwhatever it is, then the picture quality is far less good.
therefore, you will be less able to have higher aa and af settings.....
f
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If you look at the specs, I don't think he'll have any trouble with quality, nor have trouble with high settings.
 
the specs will not drive 16af and 4aa on 1920x1600

they would do it at 1600x1200.

however of course it is crims choice, and i acquiesce to his experience
f
 
CrimsonSky said:
Several factors--Better onboard audio, stability etc.

While this is one example, there are similar results with other reviews:

"Once again we saw a DFI motherboard fail when it comes to long-term stress testing. By “long-term,” we mean in excess of 24 hours. While most of the latest heavy hitters from the likes of ABIT, ASUS, and MSI will literally run error free for days under 100% load, that is not the experience we have had with DFI motherboards."
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Fine, get the MSI, not like I can stop you.

You know, though, all motherbaords fail. The failure rate on the MSI boards isn't very impressive, either: a lot of people complain they get one dead board after another. What you're doing right now is buying a product based on brand preference. There's nothing wrong with buying a sony MP3 player, but doesn't necessarily mean it's the best decision. I still think that DFI's solution has much more impressive specs than any other nF4 board right now, but of course you don't really have to have 4.0vdimm, or Raid5 for that matter. You could always spend some money on an SCSI card... right? You've got a lot of money. What do you care?

And now the PCP&C... another classic example of brand preference (this time with forum myths). There's nothing that good about their power supplies. They aren't even worth the money they're chargning for them. Comes to think of it, I wouldn't even want a power supply with such dirty rails. Now, Zippy/Emacs 700 would probably serve you much better, but you don't see anybody pimping them as the PCP&C's are.
 
iddqd said:
Fine, get the MSI, not like I can stop you.
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Nope.

You don't have brand preferrence?..I see many brands in your sig ;) Why advertise--The fact is they all have their share of quirks. When I want a tastey sandwich cookie, I reach for Oreo's, not Hydrox :D
 
iddqd said:
Fine, get the MSI, not like I can stop you.

You know, though, all motherbaords fail. The failure rate on the MSI boards isn't very impressive, either: a lot of people complain they get one dead board after another.
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QFT. My old K2-Ultra died, was RMA'd, and the RMA was DOA. I bought a Shuttle MN31N and I've been happy since. However, MSI may have improved quality control since then, we'll see.
 
CrimsonSky said:
Nope.

You don't have brand preferrence?..I see many brands in your sig ;) Why advertise--The fact is they all have their share of quirks. When I want a tastey sandwich cookie, I reach for Oreo's, not Hydrox :D
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No, I buy my parts based on specs and overclocking performance. Sometimes even looks... but I would seriously buy a motherboard made by Al Queda if it performed better.
 
First of all I would like to say how much i treasure your outstanding casemod, it simply rocks ;)

But what I wanted to know was this: where do you/can I get that styrene plastic that you use to shape this unbelievable work of yours? I'm located in Norway, which lyes in Scandinavia. Here there only lives 4,5million people, yet we are the second richest country in the world (after Japan, based on BNP), still there is nowhere that I can get anything for casemods.

So... To sum it up: where do you think I can get a sheet of styrene plastic?
 
-N4cR-Stigma said:
First of all I would like to say how much i treasure your outstanding casemod, it simply rocks ;)

But what I wanted to know was this: where do you/can I get that styrene plastic that you use to shape this unbelievable work of yours? I'm located in Norway, which lyes in Scandinavia. Here there only lives 4,5million people, yet we are the second richest country in the world (after Japan, based on BNP), still there is nowhere that I can get anything for casemods.

So... To sum it up: where do you think I can get a sheet of styrene plastic?
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You can purchase large sheets of styrene here
 
mashie said:
Good that you have lot of cash so you can do imports from all over the world without problem then ;)

One brand for styrene plastic is plasticard, go to your local hobby/games store and you will find it.
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I sense a bit of sarcasme in your in your response. I know that my explanation about my whereabouts seemed a bit cocky, but it was only to illustrate my countrys lack of good case-modding equipment...

Well, the styrene sheets themselves aren't that expensive, but it's the shipping I'm worried about. I guess I'll have to send out a query on that matter :p

But Crimson, I'm not very familiar with the American measurments, since we mostly use centimeters in Norway. How thick is the styrene that you use? I can tell from the USplastic website that one can get sheets from .020 to .187, though I don't quite understand what it means. If you don't mind, I would be delighted to know what you use...

It is a possibility that you use different thickness, so in the matter of comparison, how thick is (for instance) the styrene that you have used to dress the sidepanels of the case?
 
.020 Inches = 0.05080 Centimeters
.030 Inches = 0.07620 Centimeters
.040 Inches = 0.10160 Centimeters
.060 Inches = 0.15240 Centimeters
.080 Inches = 0.20320 Centimeters
.100 Inches = 0.25400 Centimeters
.125 Inches = 0.31750 Centimeters
.187 Inches = 0.47498 Centimeters

Now ofcourse that's assuming their thickness measurments are in inches (very likely).
 
Oneos said:
.020 Inches = 0.05080 Centimeters
.030 Inches = 0.07620 Centimeters
.040 Inches = 0.10160 Centimeters
.060 Inches = 0.15240 Centimeters
.080 Inches = 0.20320 Centimeters
.100 Inches = 0.25400 Centimeters
.125 Inches = 0.31750 Centimeters
.187 Inches = 0.47498 Centimeters

Now ofcourse that's assuming their thickness measurments are in inches (very likely).
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You simply multiplied it with 2,54 right? I thought about doing that myself, but it seems so thin 0.7mm(!)...
 
Oneos said:
.020 Inches = 0.05080 Centimeters
.030 Inches = 0.07620 Centimeters
.040 Inches = 0.10160 Centimeters
.060 Inches = 0.15240 Centimeters
.080 Inches = 0.20320 Centimeters
.100 Inches = 0.25400 Centimeters
.125 Inches = 0.31750 Centimeters
.187 Inches = 0.47498 Centimeters

Now ofcourse that's assuming their thickness measurments are in inches (very likely).
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If you consider the decimal place it is indeed measured in thousandths of an inch :p
 
-N4cR-Stigma said:
You simply multiplied it with 2,54 right? I thought about doing that myself, but it seems so thin 0.7mm(!)...
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You could also use the conversion function on google. Assuming crimsons numbers are indeed inches, you'ld google for

0.020 inches to cm

Handy when you don't have a calculator, or can't remember to conversion.

works for other types of measurements too.
 
This question has probably been asked before, or you have written its answer, though I could not find it using the search function...

What kinds of kit bashes have you used in this mod? I saw your tutorial on how to make a fossil mouse, and in that movie an adress to a modelkit supplier appeared (www.testors.com). I quickly looked the webpage up in internet explorer and quickly discovered that this page was the right one to visit if one was to purchase a modelingkit.

I viewed some of their kits, and was quickly aware that I was unable to find anything that looked like the parts that you have used...

Well... I hope you find it in your best interests to answer my question :)
 
actually i just went to a length and distance convertor on the internet, and used that... but sure i multiplied.. :p

Hope those are the right measurements
 
DevilMan said:
Congrats on the write up in GamePro magazine.

Bottom left page 24 of print mag for the curious. if it was posted already then, :(
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Hey thanks--I forgot all about this article--there's been so many it's hard to keep track ;)
 
CrimsonSky said:
Now I'm not answering any of your questions ever again. It's in my best interest. ;)
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Aha! You're afraid that I will surpass your case with mine, therefore you won't answer me! I think I've got it all sorted out pretty well....
 
-N4cR-Stigma said:
Aha! Your afraid that I will surpass your case with mine, therefore you won't answer me! I think I've got it all sorted out pretty well....
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Yes I'm terrified. And you are? :p

Kitbashing isnt about where the model parts come from, its the artistry in knowing how to use them...I have thousands of pieces stored in boxes, I couldnt tell you where each one comes from. This case mod is about 2% kitbashed anyway. The rest is scratchbuilt--made by hand and conjured up by elvyn magic :D
 
DevilMan said:
Congrats on the write up in GamePro magazine.

Bottom left page 24 of print mag for the curious. if it was posted already then, :(
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You beat me too it, got mine in the mail and didn't read it till today. Anywho, grats to Crimson!
 
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