DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

Just a heads up, the flanges on the M1 are 12mm (inside measure)/13.5mm (outside), which I believe is the minimum is required if you don't want to notch the bend. The reason for the notching is that the cutouts for the toolless plastic clips that hold the side panel are too close to the bend and there's a risk of it not bending correctly. The first M1 prototype had slightly shorter flanges at the top and required notching, which you can see here (look just above the clips on the top rail). They weren't really a problem in the M1 (though I modified the design anyway to get rid of them), but in your design these notches would be visible from the outside.

Could it be different between aluminum and steel?
 
IS-VC45%20-%201.jpg


It looks like there will be an alternative for the NH-L9i.
http://www.legitreviews.com/id-cooling-releases-vapor-chamber-cpu-cooler-mini-itx-system_157587

its available :)

http://www.amazon.com/Id-cooling-Is-vc45-Chamber-Profile-Tdp130w/dp/B00Q8RM1WE

anyone know how tall is the cooler with fan attached?
 
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Not sure, but steel is stiffer and can therefore be thinner than aluminum, so that by itself can save a couple mm in the design.

True, but aluminum being softer means it's easier to bend, and maybe it's more forgiving in terms of the required flange... I'm interested to find out since I need the information for my case design.
 
Just a heads up, the flanges on the M1 are 12mm (inside measure)/13.5mm (outside), which I believe is the minimum is required if you don't want to notch the bend. The reason for the notching is that the cutouts for the toolless plastic clips that hold the side panel are too close to the bend and there's a risk of it not bending correctly. The first M1 prototype had slightly shorter flanges at the top and required notching, which you can see here (look just above the clips on the top rail). They weren't really a problem in the M1 (though I modified the design anyway to get rid of them), but in your design these notches would be visible from the outside.

Thanks for that information. I will discuss this with LianLi. If they agree i have two possibilities 1. I will add these notches or making the case 2mm longer and 4mm higher. The last option will increase the volume to 7.14L (316x200x113). You are right these notches will be visible from the outside, but i don't know if it will be bad for the optic. Option 3. would be switching from clips to skrews.
 
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its available :)

http://www.amazon.com/Id-cooling-Is-vc45-Chamber-Profile-Tdp130w/dp/B00Q8RM1WE

anyone know how tall is the cooler with fan attached?

It's 45mm. Just a heads up though, I got mine on Wed (ordered from ebay) and unless I'm doing something very wrong (or this thing is defective), it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
I've re-seated the thing 5 times already because I still can't believe the underwhelming results I'm getting considering it's rated for 130W TDP. You'd figure there'd be reviews by now so I can confirm my results but i can't find anything yet.
 
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It's 45mm. Just a heads up though, I got mine on Wed (ordered from ebay) and unless I'm doing something very wrong (or this thing is defective), it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
I've re-seated the thing 5 times already because I still can't believe the underwhelming results I'm getting considering it's rated for 130W TDP. You'd figure there'd be reviews by now so I can confirm my results but i can't find anything yet.

As Silent PC Review keep repeating, it's extremely important with good contact between heatsink and heat spreader, and a slightly convex base surface on the heatsink usually works out best. How's the base on this one? Flat or convex (or perish the thought: concave)?

Also, have you tried the same fan on both (NH-L9i and this one) as a comparison?
 
It's 45mm. Just a heads up though, I got mine on Wed (ordered from ebay) and unless I'm doing something very wrong (or this thing is defective), it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
I've re-seated the thing 5 times already because I still can't believe the underwhelming results I'm getting considering it's rated for 130W TDP. You'd figure there'd be reviews by now so I can confirm my results but i can't find anything yet.

What temps are you getting?

Whenever the post office gets around to delivering mine I'll be testing it with my 5930K so we'll see if their 130W are true or just optimistic marketing nonsense.
 
I also vote for panel screws, for the reasons others above me said. And the case is already a bit too tall, more than it needs to be, IMHO. For the life of me, i can't understand why so many mm lost just for the pci riser bend radius, above the mobo. And if you'll use screws, maybe you could cut and shorten the bends (where the clips were attached), to make the mobo installation easier (in case you decide to shave a few mms from the top).
 
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It's 45mm. Just a heads up though, I got mine on Wed (ordered from ebay) and unless I'm doing something very wrong (or this thing is defective), it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
I've re-seated the thing 5 times already because I still can't believe the underwhelming results I'm getting considering it's rated for 130W TDP. You'd figure there'd be reviews by now so I can confirm my results but i can't find anything yet.

It could be the orientation of the vapor chamber. I know my AXP100 is much more effective when mounted horizontally so the heat pipes can function as intended rather than vertically mounted as in my L2. Noctua actually has a warning on their page when vertically mounting their C-style heatsinks to avoid the orientation where pipe bends are at the top .
 
I also vote for panel screws, for the reasons others above me said. And the case is already a bit too tall, more than it needs to be, IMHO. For the life of me, i can't understand why so many mm lost just for the pci riser bend radius, above the mobo. And if you'll use screws, maybe you could cut and shorten the bends (where the clips where attached), to make the mobo installation easier (in case you decide to shave a few mms from the top).

Shorting the hight is not possible. 170mm motherboard over and under it 11.5mm free space (for cables and riser ) and 2x1.5mm material thickness.
 
As Silent PC Review keep repeating, it's extremely important with good contact between heatsink and heat spreader, and a slightly convex base surface on the heatsink usually works out best. How's the base on this one? Flat or convex (or perish the thought: concave)?

Also, have you tried the same fan on both (NH-L9i and this one) as a comparison?

Looking at the CPU contact after the second re-seating or so, only the edges of the CPU were touching it seems (so concave). I was using the credit card method with NT-H1 TIM btw. I also tried both Noctua and ID fans but neither made any difference. What did make any difference, and I fear this might be a problem in the A4 case, is the exhaust fan that's right above this cooler in my FT-03 case. That dropped temps by 2-4C.

To everyone else (because I'm not sure yet how to quote others within the same post..n00bie here lol) the orientation was of course vertical (in FT-03) and yes I spun this thing several different ways lol.

With my 3770K @ 4.2 with ~1.2v and blend test ( I know it's not a realistic load but it is the fastest way I knew of to compare the two coolers) I was still hitting 90C after only a few minutes, otherwise games and the like mostly stayed at or slightly below 75C (which, coming from huge tower heatsinks, is still to high to me).

I even decided to use the grain/rice? method for TIM thinking whatever void is in the middle would get filled in, and while this helped temps not shoot up so fast, it still eventually got up there. So now I'm going to put plastic washer on the 4 corners of the backplate behind the MB to try and bring the cooler in better contact and will report back later.

***If this deserves another thread, please let me know....apologies if this is way off topic/distracting from dondan's thread.***
 
It could be the orientation of the vapor chamber. I know my AXP100 is much more effective when mounted horizontally so the heat pipes can function as intended rather than vertically mounted as in my L2. Noctua actually has a warning on their page when vertically mounting their C-style heatsinks to avoid the orientation where pipe bends are at the top .

Besides trying to get better CPU contact right now, this could be the only culprit I can think of if temps don't change at all. While I'm not sure how vapor chamber heat sinks would work vertically, those on the Titan coolers seemed to do just fine in any orientation (although I'm not entirely sure if the situations are similar).
 
it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
Seeing as Noctua isn't in the business of selling crap heatsinks, that doesn't surprise me. A vapor chamber doesn't work magic after all.

These low height heatsinks seem to be primarily limited by airflow. A slim fan isn't going to set any records in the first place, it has to push air through very narrow fins and the heatsink is cowering mere millimeters above the CPU/mainboard.

Even if a vapor chamber is slightly more effective at transferring heat from the CPU to the heatsink fins, it doesn't matter if there's lacking ventilation to remove the heat from there.
 
Shorting the hight is not possible. 170mm motherboard over and under it 11.5mm free space (for cables and riser ) and 2x1.5mm material thickness.

Ok, thanks. I thought it was more from just looking at the renderings. Though, i still think you could shave a few mm from bottom and top. :p Those damn mms. :) Something like 3-4mm from top and 5-7 mm from bottom. Especially at the bottom, where i don't see the need for 11.5 mm just for cable management. At the top i understand, it's that riser's bent radius, and that depends on its flexibility and total length. But at the bottom, the only problem i see is the pci bracket conflicting with the power plug socket; but if that's the case, i think the power socket could be moved above the pci bracket, at the top of the case.
 
The problem is how longer you work with a cad in small dimensions you begin to think that 1mm is like 1 meter.
The PCI Bracket doesn't have contact with the AC-Outlet. There are some millimeters between it.
 
The PCI Bracket doesn't have contact with the AC-Outlet. There are some millimeters between it.
I know, but what i was trying to say is those millimeters would disappear quickly and maybe become a problem if you would decide to shave a few millimeters from those 11.5mm at the bottom, like i was suggesting in my previous post.
 
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The problem is how longer you work with a cad in small dimensions you begin to think that 1mm is like 1 meter.
The PCI Bracket doesn't have contact with the AC-Outlet. There are some millimeters between it.

I can second this. My primary display is 24" and when working (often zoomed in a lot for detail work) you get a false sense of impression, especially if you've worked on a particular design for weeks or even months.

When I picked up my first prototype I was stunned when I first saw it standing on the desk waiting for me. I think the first thought was something like "no that's not it" and I kept looking around for my case, and when they pointed at it I was like "uhh, what... that can't be right". It was just so darn small. And mine is far bigger than dondan's case (roughly 10L). First time dondan saw his case he probably thought it was a cellphone or something.
 
And reduce dependence on plastic (the clips), which could be good for longevity I think.

Wouldn't be so sure about that. When using screws you have to either cut the thread into the aluminium, or use press in threads like Nova does. The first option is cheap, but as aluminium is quite a soft metal, people tend to put too much torque on the screw and ruin the thread very fast. Press in threads are very good in terms of longevity, but will increase the cost and it may be hard to get that done with LianLi as a manufacturer, as they rarely use press ins in their cases from what I remember.
 
Self-clinching nuts will add a bit to the cost of Lian Li can do it, the M1 V2 and V3 has them for the side bracket mounting holes.
 
Seeing as Noctua isn't in the business of selling crap heatsinks, that doesn't surprise me. A vapor chamber doesn't work magic after all.

These low height heatsinks seem to be primarily limited by airflow. A slim fan isn't going to set any records in the first place, it has to push air through very narrow fins and the heatsink is cowering mere millimeters above the CPU/mainboard.

Even if a vapor chamber is slightly more effective at transferring heat from the CPU to the heatsink fins, it doesn't matter if there's lacking ventilation to remove the heat from there.

I continued the conversation over in the OC & cooling forum, but basically the problem was that the base of the cooler was not making full contact with the CPU (specifically its center) which resulted in bad temps.

So now I'm going to try to exchange and hope this problem is only limited to just the cooler I received.
 
Self-clinching nuts will add a bit to the cost of Lian Li can do it, the M1 V2 and V3 has them for the side bracket mounting holes.

Ah, good to know. "Self-clinching nuts", that's what they were called! I only remembered the german name for it ;)
 
so i created an account just to make a reply on this thread... im really wondering why no one wants to create a very tiny case, having sfx power supply and mini lenght video card, 2x slots for 2,5 inch drives, maximum 60mm cooler. Sooner or later companies want to have their products in tiny edition, so a case that has all of this components can be upgraded anytime.

ps : dan ur case looks very nice, but i really wanted it to be smaller
 
i never said to be smaller with SAME gpu lengh. people gonna use the mini gpu from now on
 
Dory, that is not the point in here. The point is to have flexibility with the GPU's and good cooling, by having all component sucking air directly from the exterior of the case. I want a small case, but I prefer one that I can upgrade components, and not being limited to 4 or 5 products in the market, like GPU's.

You are talking about a different product. I saw somewhere in the main SFF forum a case like SG05, but shorter.
 
...sfx power supply and mini lenght video card, 2x slots for 2,5 inch drives, maximum 60mm cooler...

ps : dan ur case looks very nice, but i really wanted it to be smaller
I can tell you, with those feature requirements, regardless of how you arrange things the smallest it can get is still about 7 liters.
 
i never said to be smaller with SAME gpu lengh. people gonna use the mini gpu from now on
I'm people and I'm not.

@dan

Don't you change anything about this case. Just get it to the market ASAP. Or in the eternal words of Philip J. Fry: "Shut up and take my money!"
 
@Dory & Necere - I believe that's what theGryphon is trying to make here A 6lt mITX Cube Design
So 6.5L it is minimum you can do without a riser

If you want a smallest possible mITX/GTX970 mini combo you could go for a TFX power supply and dondan's gpu behind motherboard approach, put TFX next to both and you'll have dimensions like 243x175x94mm making it 4L case. But that doesn't count in the wiring hell and proper drive mount. Eventually you'll end up with a 4.5L or even 5L case.

Dondan's case is I believe the ultimate cube design limiting only the cpu cooler height and there's not much you can do better here unless you want a riserless, more cube-like case.
 
so i created an account just to make a reply on this thread... im really wondering why no one wants to create a very tiny case, having sfx power supply and mini lenght video card, 2x slots for 2,5 inch drives, maximum 60mm cooler. Sooner or later companies want to have their products in tiny edition, so a case that has all of this components can be upgraded anytime.

ps : dan ur case looks very nice, but i really wanted it to be smaller

Building a smaller case with a mini GPU and an SFX PSU is nearly, physically impossible. Maybe a half liter difference at best.

The only way to achieve a smaller size is to use a DC-DC powerboard like an HDPlex and run an external power adapter, otherwise the case cannot be shortened.
 
As i see for some project here and also for my project you start with much less liter as the end-result will be.
The reason is in the CAD it looks very easy but you forget you need space for wireing and mounting. If you have the aim to bring the case on market there are also some other reasons that are increasing the size e.g. support for different psu's, gpu's and coolers. Furthermore the manufracture must be abel to build you creation and the price must be low. All these points will increase the size.

I think the main advantage of the A4-SFX is the full length gpu and sfx support. What do you do if the next gpu generation making a big step to manage 4k resolution which result in the situation of higher power consumtion, more heat and a larger layout? In a mini GPU case the new cards wouldn't be fit, because they are too large, but the A4-SFX will have no problems with them.
 
As i see for some project here and also for my project you start with much less liter as the end-result will be.
The reason is in the CAD it looks very easy but you forget you need space for wireing and mounting. If you have the aim to bring the case on market there are also some other reasons that are increasing the size e.g. support for different psu's, gpu's and coolers. Furthermore the manufracture must be abel to build you creation and the price must be low. All these points will increase the size.

I think the main advantage of the A4-SFX is the full length gpu and sfx support. What do you do if the next gpu generation making a big step to manage 4k resolution which result in the situation of higher power consumtion, more heat and a larger layout? In a mini GPU case the new cards wouldn't be fit, because they are too large, but the A4-SFX will have no problems with them.

I think there will still be mITX sized GPUs in the future, but that doesn't change anything about the point that sacrificing GPU length will give close to no advantages whatsoever.
 
Will a m.2 ssd mounted on the back of the motherboard survive temperature wise, in this case?
 
Yes because there are two shields between it and gpu. One plastic and a aluminium shield. A msata ssd can handle 60-70°C but i think we are more in the 30-40°C area in this case.
 
Wouldn't be so sure about that. When using screws you have to either cut the thread into the aluminium, or use press in threads like Nova does. The first option is cheap, but as aluminium is quite a soft metal, people tend to put too much torque on the screw and ruin the thread very fast. Press in threads are very good in terms of longevity, but will increase the cost and it may be hard to get that done with LianLi as a manufacturer, as they rarely use press ins in their cases from what I remember.

When thinking about screws, I think of what LianLi use on the o-series:

http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-o5/

Some kind of thumb screws for the tempered glass panels? Would also make it possible for people to create their own glass/acrylic panels. Just a thought. Not sure about it.

Yes because there are two shields between it and gpu. One plastic and a aluminium shield. A msata ssd can handle 60-70°C but i think we are more in the 30-40°C area in this case.

Ok, let's see. :)
 
BTW, El-Dubya contacted ID Cooling and it looks like they're working on a upgraded version, presumably QC issues with the concave base.

I got mine and went ahead and tested it, it can handle 130W but just barely. But once they get the QC issues sorted it should be a good alternative to the Noctua L9i for 115x.
 
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