SideSwiped
n00b
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2017
- Messages
- 46
Any US customers cases actually leave germany yet? Mine hasn't left Rodgau in days.
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Negative ghost rider. Next Thursday is the current date for DHL to pick up tye cases. Some of is still don't have a shipping label or notification.Any US customers cases actually leave germany yet? Mine hasn't left Rodgau in days.
Any US customers cases actually leave germany yet? Mine hasn't left Rodgau in days.
Anyone who is concidering putting a Ryzen into the dan a4
Would you go 1700 or 1700x? I know the only difference between the 1700-1800x is binning, the chips are identical.
However the 1700 is 65w and the 1700x is 95w. Due to AMD using soldered chips (Thank god) I would say the temps would be down alot and if the 1700x can manage max 70-80c inside the dan A4 I could see myself getting one without fear of it thermal throttling.
Mine also is the same state.
Are they using steam boats?
Have you done some tests on temps on all coolers ??
I found a heatsinks which looks quite promising from the specs and nobody here has mentioned it yet ;-)
In the computerbase.de forum some had the same problem. It looks like the backplate of the GPU is heating up the PSU.
One suggested to put some isolation material (in his case of the PSU packaging) between PSU und GPU, which solved the problem in his case.
Here a link to his post including picture: https://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1651725&page=18&p=19795435#post19795435
I found a heatsinks which looks quite promising from the specs and nobody here has mentioned it yet ;-)
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I've had this for one week. Should the status have changed by now? Singapore here.
Thanks for the pictures. Don't forget to put a bit of electrical tape onto the PCH to correct the emissivity (read for short explanation and good post by FLIR on how to correct it).
About the power design of this motherboard. It is certainly not a usual layout and I don't yet fully understand how exactly it works (I don't see enough MOSFETs for example). I am however pretty sure it is properly cooled and doesn't need a heatsink as long as there is some airflow and the case temperature isn't too high.
usual layout:
View attachment 17729
Asus STRIX Z270I:
View attachment 17727 View attachment 17728
Jup, black epoxy resin has an emissivity factor somewhere around 0.95 which is good. The maximum (safe) case temperature for these MOSFETs is probably around 120°C. However, I would recommend keeping it bellow 100°C because above that you can slowly damage the PCB (it will still work but It can start to look really nasty).FLIR0030 and FLIR0031 are images of the VRMs. I didn't try to get electrical tape down in there, I assume the emissivity of an epoxy package is pretty OK. Looks like 70-80°C. Any idea what's expected for these parts? I neglected to measure the VRMs of my previous Gigabyte h170n with a 6600, but those seemed to run happily with no stock heatsinks of any sort.
And unrelated to all of the thermal nonsense, I discovered that a quarter-wave 2.4GHz RP-SMA works fine to handle Bluetooth, and its small stature should better match the A4 compared to the remote-mount monstrosities that the motherboards are shipping with these daysIf you don't need wireless, you only need to connect an antenna to the top port on the z270i (or the right-hand port, when looking from the rear, of the h270n).
http://www.digikey.com/short/32tj5h
Try to have a fan blowing air towards it. If the psu fan stops with the fan directing airflow, you know that the problem is the temperature and not the load, which would mean that the psu is not defective.
All in all, I am convinced this is a design choice that can't be fixed. The psu needs to be thermally-protected, and that only happens if the fan is temperature-controlled. It happend with a Silverstone unit, If I'm not mistaken, that it was only load-controlled and thus would fail (it would trip) in computers with poor or no airflow.
And unrelated to all of the thermal nonsense, I discovered that a quarter-wave 2.4GHz RP-SMA works fine to handle Bluetooth, and its small stature should better match the A4 compared to the remote-mount monstrosities that the motherboards are shipping with these daysIf you don't need wireless, you only need to connect an antenna to the top port on the z270i (or the right-hand port, when looking from the rear, of the h270n).
http://www.digikey.com/short/32tj5h
According to my limited experiments with different length replacement antennas for my motherboard, as far as wifi reception goes,However, I have to say, I still love my 8 inch monstrosities - sticking up from the back of my Raven RVZ01, it gets me a lot of comments along the lines of, "what is that?"
"
Yup, I don't think the performance is there for me to upgrade from my 5820k. Games for the most part don't get insanely better performance. Granted, you will probably get loads better performance from an overclocked R7 1700 while still keeping it cooler than a 5820k. I'm just glad no itx boards will be released soon because I don't think I could keep myself from going red.
And unrelated to all of the thermal nonsense, I discovered that a quarter-wave 2.4GHz RP-SMA works fine to handle Bluetooth, and its small stature should better match the A4 compared to the remote-mount monstrosities that the motherboards are shipping with these daysIf you don't need wireless, you only need to connect an antenna to the top port on the z270i (or the right-hand port, when looking from the rear, of the h270n).
http://www.digikey.com/short/32tj5h
I tried your suggestion and the fan turns off. It even turns off if I blow air from my mouth gently towards it (but starts again soon after). I must have a heat-sensitive unit then, where everything works, but the fan is kind of aggressive.
My idea was to have a semi-passive system, so I guess I have to look at the SF450 instead as it may not get as warm.
Going through different antenna on digikey... I wonder how much of a faraday-cage-effect the case has? I'm thinking about some of these internal antenna... Or maybe a block or stub we can stick in the hole above the graphics card mount?
(Digikey... your frequency selector is absolutely the worst imaginable. Feel free to continue never improving your site)
You do sqeeuze the riser between the mounting screws with the C7 so I just mounted it behind the GPU. Fits fine even with a backplate.dondan, what's the correct positioning of the 3M raiser cable, on the back of the GPU or behind the motherboard? Mine did come (from the box/factory) on the motherboard side, so i mounted it over the raiser but now i'm actually worried about not puncturing it with the C7 mounting screws because on the other peoples photos they have the raiser mounted on the GPU side. What should i do?
Do you guys have some thoughts?
Is there one this size for wireless AC? I'm ordering one for bluetooth - thanks.
If you use two of the ones you linked to, would you get wifi 2.4 as well? That'd be fine actually.
Going through different antenna on digikey... I wonder how much of a faraday-cage-effect the case has? I'm thinking about some of these internal antenna... Or maybe a block or stub we can stick in the hole above the graphics card mount?
(Digikey... your frequency selector is absolutely the worst imaginable. Feel free to continue never improving your site)
ID Cooling also makes the IS-50, which has one more heatpipe, should be able to fit a thin 92mm or 120mm fan under the fins, and will comfortably be <48mm high with an underslung fan. The bad news is that availability is similar to the IS-40 (eBay or Aliexpress) and I can't find any reviews.
I can do some testing with this, but I'd imagine it should be fine. They make 1/2 and full wave (and many others, RF is an endlessly deep rabbit hole) as well. My wireless router currently sits below the PC and is connected via cable anyway, so I only need the antenna for Bluetooth keyboard and mouse.
jtcera if you or someone else wants to take up some range/power testing, I'll send out a set of 1/4, 1/2, and full wave in exchange for your thoroughly conducted review, comparing and contrasting with the stock antennas that come with the boards
Which internal antennas are you referring to? Most boards with integrated wireless have connectors on the IO panel, no? You can certainly run a feedline from the IPEX connector or whatever on the wireless card to an RP-SMA on the chassis, like the stock setup on the h170n.
The little tiny ones will only do 2.4Ghz wifi, so no AC.
I'm referring to ones like these, so I don't have to have any antenna hanging out
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...y-amp-connectors/2118060-1/A107430-ND/3915263
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/taoglas-limited/FXP830.24.0100B/931-1318-ND/4849884
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...y-amp-connectors/1513472-5/A107425-ND/3915254
I appreciate the offer, but I live in such a small apartment that I'd be a bad candidate. I ordered 2x of the smallest ones.I can do some testing with this, but I'd imagine it should be fine. They make 1/2 and full wave (and many others, RF is an endlessly deep rabbit hole) as well. My wireless router currently sits below the PC and is connected via cable anyway, so I only need the antenna for Bluetooth keyboard and mouse.
jtcera if you or someone else wants to take up some range/power testing, I'll send out a set of 1/4, 1/2, and full wave in exchange for your thoroughly conducted review, comparing and contrasting with the stock antennas that come with the boards
Which internal antennas are you referring to? Most boards with integrated wireless have connectors on the IO panel, no? You can certainly run a feedline from the IPEX connector or whatever on the wireless card to an RP-SMA on the chassis, like the stock setup on the h170n.