Could use some opinions on upgrades

[Dangman]

What utilities are recommended to check CPU/RAM settings and voltage, etc., to check settings while in Windows?

Use CPU-Z for RAM speed and voltage as well CPU speed and vCore

DRAM Termination
Channel A Reference
Channel B Reference

All of the above are on AUTO and showing .9v.

Actually I'm not too sure what those settings are. Go look in your motherboard's manual to learn what those are.

 

[SBMongoos]

Cannot get the LAN NIC to work. Odd, tests okay in BIOS. I have the driver loaded (if I don't Windows wants to load one for it). Verified it's in the hardware list. Have tried three versions and still cannot get connected to the network (no network issues either).

Any ideas.

 

[engiNURD]

So when you say you can't get it to work, what do you mean? Its not getting an IP or its not even detected after the drivers are loaded? Do you see it in device manager?

 

[SBMongoos]

So when you say you can't get it to work, what do you mean? Its not getting an IP or its not even detected after the drivers are loaded? Do you see it in device manager?

Sorry I know better and should have left details. I cannot obtain an IP address. Yes, I see it in the device manager. The driver is installed.

 

[SBMongoos]

On a whim I decided to format and reinstall XP. With some BSOD issues (RAM related?) I wasn't sure if something may have got hosed in the registry with the LAN. Right after formatting and then copying the install, etc., I rec'd yet another BSOD error that said PFN_LIST CORRUPT. No idea what all this that's going on. Before attempting this clean install I cleared the CMOS via jumper process and then set most settings to default.

Off to a clients for now. Been to wrapped around the axle trying to figure this out and way overdue to eat lunch.

 

[engiNURD]

Can you manually set an IP?

 

[SBMongoos]

Can you manually set an IP?

Figured it out. My bad. Custom configuration in my router was the issue. I forgot to make some adjustments. LAN is good to go.

I did an update to the BIOS as well. Going to see if this will deal with the RAM issue. Running at 800Mhz right now. Want to get OS and the foundation setup and then will go back and try 1066. If no go then I guess it's a call to OCZ. Hmm...

 

[engiNURD]

Figured it out. My bad. Custom configuration in my router was the issue. I forgot to make some adjustments. LAN is good to go.

I did an update to the BIOS as well. Going to see if this will deal with the RAM issue. Running at 800Mhz right now. Want to get OS and the foundation setup and then will go back and try 1066. If no go then I guess it's a call to OCZ. Hmm...

If your CPU isn't running with a base FSB of 533Mhz, then there's really no need to run at 1066. However, I agree, if you paid for 1066, the product should deliver what is promised of it.

 

[SBMongoos]

If your CPU isn't running with a base FSB of 533Mhz, then there's really no need to run at 1066. However, I agree, if you paid for 1066, the product should deliver what is promised of it.

I guess I looked at it as though you could set the speed for the CPU and the RAM seperate. Currently the CPU x9 to get 3ghz and the RAM is set to 800mhz (400). When it gets into getting this set right and tweaking all the various setting I admit I get a little lost. Not sure those settings above are right for RAM to match CPU. Doesn't sound like it.

Also, are there settings that need tweaking to get the capacity speed out of the SATA2 drives in Windows? Opted for the IDE not ACHI.

 

[SBMongoos]

I've taken a lot of photos to get some that I thought would make sense and several are below. If anyone has questions or is curious to see something (especially if it can help) let me know. If you have any thoughts feel free to share. Ideas are welcome.

Cooler Master 590. I like it. Not big on the plastic clip locks but you can use screws instead for the drives and for the cards on the back.

Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R . Just installed one stick of the OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 to see placement and if any concerns for video card, etc.

Here you can get an idea of size and clearance above the heat sinks. My hand is average sized, maybe it bit bigger, but this will provide reference for the Xigmatek HDT-S1283. I used the Tuniq TX-2 compound. I put some on the bottom of the metal platform and pipes to fill in around the crevices near the tubes and then used a card to wipe off and then did a little clean up. Then used the process (some link provided around here) where someone found that putting on two strips of compound about 3/8" long x 1/16" wide or so on the two center aluminum tracks. It showed once in place that it covered the CPU nicely without overrun. Yes, I used the Xigmatek Crossbow. Easy to install!

I read some concerns about attaching the fan to the S1283. I didn't find it an issue at all. I had read to attach one side then swing it closed against the S1283. I didn't do that. I didn't use Vaseline either to slick up the rubber inserts to attach the fan but did use a small amount of saliva and it worked perfect. The manual recommended starting at the third fin down. Lined up the fan great. You can see where the rubber insert is slit and actually fits over the edge of a fin and the end of the rubber piece is barrel shaped and it gets pressed into the groove it sits. You can move the fan around a bit to pull these into place as these stretch nicely. Nice sound dampeners I'm sure as there is a small rubber spacer between the fan and the heat sink as well. You can just see it in the pic.

The BFG LS-550 PSU recommended by Danny. Cables are lined which are nice. You'll see this fits into the bottom of the case. Very quiet. Plenty of connectors and good cable length.

When the BFG PSU was installed I found that I could run the CPU power supply under the motherboard tray (tray does not remove, does have a place for an 80mm fan under the CPU) and bring out this cable at the top. The cable was the perfect length. Wanted to run the 24pin cable under but I think getting the plug through would have been an issue and I wasn't confident it was long enough.

You can just see where the cable comes out and connect for the CPU power.

Here's a layout inside the case (not complete) and you can see the PNY 9600 GSO.

This is the culprit right now. Works at 800Mhz with given timings. Mb registers it at 1600 but no matter what settings for voltage, etc., I got all kinds of errors. The higher the voltage the worse the problems.

Packed and ready to go. The SATA cables are way long for my application. I could use 8" fine as they plug into the back of the Icy Dock. Not even using any of the HDD trays below and those BFG wire cables are tied up nice and out of the way of the front fan. There's a path along the edge of the mb tray just behind the drive bays that you can run cables. Both side panels come off making this easy to work with.

Case with front face plate off. You can see fan, etc. I didn't care for the blue LEDs so I snipped the wires! Too many other LEDs from cable modem, router and so on. Will replace those optical drives with one black SATA unit when I find a good unit that's a "steal of a deal" . I opted to put the media reader at the top using the 3.5" adapter tray and face plate. Convenient!

Front with the face plate on. I really like that the I/O, USB and the power switch are located on the front near the top!!

Since the case came with hard plastic feet and the PSU sits in the bottom and faces down to pull in air I decided to add rubber fit. They attached perfectly to the existing feet, provide more dampening and raised the case further up so more air will flow under the case for the PSU to pull in.

Last but not least. For those who wanted to know where to top of that S1283 ends up. From the top tip of the copper to the very outside panel edge rail is about 1/2"

 

[Dangman]

Nice pics!!

Thanks man!

 

[engiNURD]

1600?! You do mean 1066, right? Yah, in any case, talk to OCZ support. They're 1066 sticks, so they should run at 1066, regardless if you need them at that speed or not.

Oh, and thanks for the great pics!

 

[SBMongoos]

Ya, sorry I meant 1066. I was a warranty replacement that really turned out in my favor.

So I have two questions at this point:

1. If I were to try 4Ghz with this thing what do I tweak? Sorry for asking as I know there is a ton of info but there's a lot of details to fish through. Not to mentioned a laundry list of adjustments in the BIOS.
2. Since I can now run my HDDs in SATA2 mode is there anything I need to do in XP to maximize speed? Seems the way to go is use the IDE mode in BIOS. But was wondering if something needs to be done with any drivers, etc. Seemed ACHI doesn't make sense to bother with, in XP anyway.

 

[Dangman]

1) Read through the links I provided.
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1033597257&postcount=210

2) Nothing really.

 

[SBMongoos]

For anyone interested I've added a photo above just before the last one. I had made a change to the feet on the bottom of the case that I thought made sense.

 

[SBMongoos]

Curious...since I'm working out the RAM issue I wanted to run this by some of you. The PC2-8500 is 1066Mhz. Why not use the PC2-9200 which is 1150Mhz. Seems it's good to keep rations between the CPU and the RAM speed, right? So couldn't you set the PC2-9200 to run at 1333Mhz to have a 1:1 ration with the CPU? Not sure these could be pushed to 1333.

 

[Dangman]

Curious...since I'm working out the RAM issue I wanted to run this by some of you. The PC2-8500 is 1066Mhz. Why not use the PC2-9200 which is 1150Mhz. Seems it's good to keep rations between the CPU and the RAM speed, right? So couldn't you set the PC2-9200 to run at 1333Mhz to have a 1:1 ration with the CPU? Not sure these could be pushed to 1333.

We've gone over this before in this thread man:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1033494034&postcount=49

Just in case I didn't post this before:
Actual FSB x 4 = Stated FSB
Multiplier x Actual FSB = CPU Speed
1:1 Ratio: 2 x Actual FSB = RAM Speed
1:1 Ratio: FSB = 1/2 RAM speed
Note that C2D systems don't see a performance increase with any ratio higher than 1:1

E8400:
Multi x Actual FSB, Stated FSB, RAM Speed = Clock Speed
9 x 333Mhz, 1333Mhz, DDR2 667 RAM = 3.0Ghz <== Stock Speeds
9 x 400Mhz, 1600Mhz, DDR2 800 RAM = 3.6Ghz <== Easy OC
9 x 450Mhz, 1800Mhz, DDR2 900 RAM = 4.0Ghz <== Excellent OC
9 x 500Mhz, 2000Mhz, DDR2 1000 RAM = 4.5Ghz <== If you're EXTREMELY lucky

 

[SBMongoos]

So it's a waste of time to bother with anything beyond 667 at stock CPU speeds then. If I OC the CPU then it may be worth the effort, correct?

 

[Dangman]

So it's a waste of time to bother with anything beyond 667 at stock CPU speeds then. If I OC the CPU then it may be worth the effort, correct?

Correct.

 

[SBMongoos]

So it looks like when OC'ing you're more concerned about OC'ing the CPU than you are the RAM. You just want to be sure you have RAM that can handle whatever you're trying to do with the CPU. It seems you cannot push RAM very far beyond it's packaged specs.

Looks like if I were to shoot for 4Ghz then I'd want to set the PC2-8500 to run at 900Mhz. Since it's supposed to run at 1066 (however it looks to go from 800 to 1066) I would think this would work and you're also keeping the ratio between the RAM and CPU closer. This would be a 2:1 with the CPU and which would be better than a 3:1 at 667. 2:1 of course closer to 1:1.

So do the RAM errors come from not having the timings match, 1:1, 2:1, 3:1...whatever?

I'm a visual so have this new BIOS and to talk through it helps.

 

[Dangman]

So it looks like when OC'ing you're more concerned about OC'ing the CPU than you are the RAM. You just want to be sure you have RAM that can handle whatever you're trying to do with the CPU. It seems you cannot push RAM very far beyond it's packaged specs.

I'm fine with this CPU. I can see why I didn't pick up on this earlier as I thought I'd "deal" with it later. The E8400 seems to be a great value.

Looks like if I were to shoot for 4Ghz then I'd want to set the PC2-8500 to run at 900Mhz. Since it's supposed to run at 1066 I would think this would work and you're also keeping the ration between the RAM and CPU closer.

Correct on all counts. With overclocking, you want to reduce as many variables as possible that could influence the outcome of your OC. Yes there are overclockable RAM but just like with overclocking the CPU, YMMV. So thats why we tend to recommend higher speed RAM over highly overclockable RAM since we know for sure that the higher speed RAM can actually run at higher speeds.

 

[SBMongoos]

Correct on all counts. With overclocking, you want to reduce as many variables as possible that could influence the outcome of your OC. Yes there are overclockable RAM but just like with overclocking the CPU, YMMV. So thats why we tend to recommend higher speed RAM over highly overclockable RAM since we know for sure that the higher speed RAM can actually run at higher speeds.

Okay, here's what I did. I went into the BIOS and adjust the CPU Host Frequency to 450. I noticed the BIOS changed the System Mem Mult (for DRAM) to 900 automatically. I decided to run Memtest to see what would happen and no errors. I went back to see what the CPU Core Voltage was and it's 1.25. This look right? Seems to run fine. Just need to be clear on what to do test this.

 

[Dangman]

Looks like if I were to shoot for 4Ghz then I'd want to set the PC2-8500 to run at 900Mhz. Since it's supposed to run at 1066 (however it looks to go from 800 to 1066) I would think this would work and you're also keeping the ratio between the RAM and CPU closer. This would be a 2:1 with the CPU and which would be better than a 3:1 at 667. 2:1 of course closer to 1:1.

So do the RAM errors come from not having the timings match, 1:1, 2:1, 3:1...whatever?

I'm a visual so have this new BIOS and to talk through it helps.

The first number in a 1:1 ratio refers the FSB, the second referring to the RAM. There's no performance difference between 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 2:3, 3:4, etc. Once you reach 1:1, any ratio higher than that does not yield any performance increase.

What RAM errors are you talking about? RAM errors usually occur with there's too little or too much RAM voltage, when the RAM is clocked higher than it should be or it's defective.

Okay, here's what I did. I went into the BIOS and adjust the CPU Host Frequency to 450. I noticed the BIOS changed the System Mem Mult (for DRAM) to 900 automatically. I decided to run Memtest to see what would happen and no errors. I went back to see what the CPU Core Voltage was and it's 1.25. This look right? Seems to run fine. Just need to be clear on what to do test this.

Looks right. Now use Prime95 or Orthos to stress test the CPU to see whether or not the CPU is actually stable at 1.25V with the FSB at 450Mhz for a clock speed of 3.6Ghz. If it fails the testing, go back into the BIOs and up the vCore to 1.3V and test again. Make sure that you READ the other threads I linked to for other settings to tweak and change.

 

[SBMongoos]

Looks right. Now use Prime95 or Orthos to stress test the CPU to see whether or not the CPU is actually stable at 1.25V with the FSB at 450Mhz for a clock speed of 3.6Ghz. If it fails the testing, go back into the BIOs and up the vCore to 1.3V and test again. Make sure that you READ the other threads I linked to for other settings to tweak and change.

Hold on a second. The reading under the MIT screen vs. the PC Health screen don't match. Under MIT it shows CPU at 1.25 but under the PC Health it shows Vcore at 1.396 (I assume this is the same as the other screen?). PC Health shows DDR18V at 2.080. I'm confused or are these not directly related?

The reason why I'm asking the questions here is some of these threads you have to wade through several pages to find relative info. Another note, there are several BIOS settings in MIT that get confusing. I.E.: Adv Timing Cont, MCH/ICH, under DRAM: Term ChannelA ChannelB and that's just a start. Do you bother with these? Are there any gains to messing with them? This is why I'd rather ask as it's a concern to change the wrong think and hose something up. It seems as their no need to adjust most things and OCing "can" be easy to do. But, confusing with all these other features mentioned above.

I think I'm doing something wrong. Using CPU-Z I get (under CPU tab):

• Core Speed 2700.2
• Mult x6.
• Bus Speed 450
• Rated FSB 1800.1

 

[engiNURD]

Be more specific when you're referring to settings in the BIOS...

What is your "CPU Voltage Control" set to? If its Auto, then the board will adjust accordingly, if possible, to a certain point.
"Normal CPU Vcore" is not a changeable field. It simply displays the chips stock voltage setting.
"DDR18V" is the current value for the DRAM Voltage (aka vDimm), and is controlled by the BIOS setting: "DDR2 OverVoltage Control". Some names may be different... I'm going by the names in BillParrish' guide. Have you read this guide? It probably answers all of your questions. You asked if "these" were directly related... if what was related? CPU voltage and DDR18V? I'm confused by your question. Voltages are either set to AUTO or manually set by you. Set your vDimm to whatever the RAM is rated for, and change the vCore as necessary when OC'ing.

Quick guide to OC your CPU...

1. Disable CPU SmartFan
2. Disable EIST and C1E state
3. Set vDimm to proper voltage of your RAM
4. Set FSB control to manual, and use whatever setting you like -- move gradually! If stock is 333, try 366, then 400, then 433, then 450, then 466... the higher you go, the smaller steps you should take.
5. Set DRAM multiplier to 2.0
6. Set PCI-E frequency to 100
7. As you raise FSB, you'll need to adjust the CPU voltage once you can no longer boot
8. If you're going well over 425Mhz FSB, you'll want to change your FSB and MCH voltages to +0.1v (or even higher if you go past 500). For this, you'll want to read through all of the main pages of the guides posted by Danny.

Hopefully, someone will correct me if any of those are wrong... i'm kinda in a hurry right now.

 

[SBMongoos]

What is your "CPU Voltage Control" set to? Yes, it's at auto.

BillParrish' guide. Have you read this guide? Never heard of it. Where can I find it?

You asked if "these" were directly related... if what was related? The stats under the PC Health screen vs. what I was seeing in the MIT screen. Apparently, since several of these are set to auto then the PC Health screen is showing what is fact?

CPU voltage and DDR18V? Goes with above question. What I was seeing in the PC Health Screen. The nomenclature doesn't "match" what's listed in the MIT screen. But it's close. I'm not big on assuming with it comes to some tech stuff.

Quick guide to OC your CPU...

1. Disable CPU SmartFan already disabled
2. Disable EIST and C1E state disabled these as they were enabled
3. Set vDimm to proper voltage of your RAM I'll set to 2.1 but I want to check the reading. The DDR18V (under the PC Health Screen) shows 2.080.
4. Set FSB control to manual, and use whatever setting you like -- move gradually! If stock is 333, try 366, then 400, then 433, then 450, then 466... the higher you go, the smaller steps you should take.Already punched it up to 450 without knowing it mattered.
5. Set DRAM multiplier to 2.0 Where's this?
6. Set PCI-E frequency to 100 Gigabyte says Auto is 100 by default.
7. As you raise FSB, you'll need to adjust the CPU voltage once you can no longer boot Adjusted to 450 and the BIOS changed the RAM to 900 automatically.
8. If you're going well over 425Mhz FSB, you'll want to change your FSB and MCH voltages to +0.1v (or even higher if you go past 500). For this, you'll want to read through all of the main pages of the guides posted by Danny. Okay, but where and what are these so I can do this. Is it necessary?

Seems this Mb is designed to overclock and is adjusting some things automatically. Check out this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205132
Seems there are some questions as to how this Mb does what it does. Something called LLC is coming into question. Gigabyte building "smart Mbs" now?

 

[SBMongoos]

I'm sure I'll catch hell for this. But with all the info out there any people doing various settings who knows. There's no good staple I'm seeing different people with different settings. Not sure some of these even matter.

This will throw off enginurd's setting above.

These are ALL settings after I hit Load Optimized Defaults (just somewhere to start). Keep in mind that I'm having issues at 1066 (OCZ PC2-8500). I'm wanting to OC at 4Ghz. I'm aware of a couple of settings but getting lost in the rest.:

MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)
Robust Graphics Booster ...............: Auto
CPU Clock Ratio .......................: 9x
Fine CPU Clock Ratio...................: 0.0
CPU Frequency .........................: 3.0 GHz (333X9)

Clock Chip Control
Standard Clock Control
CPU Host Clock Control.................: Disabled
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) ..............: 333
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz) ...........: Auto (100Mhz)
C.I.A.2 ...............................: Disabled


Advanced Clock Control [Press Enter]
CPU Clock Drive........................: 800mV
PCI Express Clock Drive................: 900mV
CPU Clock Skew (ps)....................: 0ps
MCH Clock Skew (ps)....................: 0ps


DRAM Performance Control
Performance Enhance....................: Turbo
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)........: Auto
(G)MCH Frequency Latch.................: Auto
System Memory Multiplier ..............: Auto
Memory Frequency (Mhz) ................: 1066
DRAM Timing Selectable ................: Auto

Standard Timing Control
CAS Latency Time.......................: 5
tRCD ..................................: 5
tRP'...................................: 5
tRAS...................................: 15

Advanced Timing Control
tRRD...................................: 4
tWTR...................................: 4
tWR....................................: 6
tRFC...................................: 56
tRTP...................................: 4
Command Rate (CMD) ....................: Auto (0)

Adv Timing Control
tRRD................................4 Auto
tWTR................................4 Auto
tWR..................................6 Auto
tRFC.................................56 Auto
tRTP................................4 Auto
Comm Rate.......................0 Auto

Channel A & B Timing Settings
Static tRead Value.....................: 8 Auto
tRD Phase0 Adjustment..................: 0 Auto
tRD Phase1 Adjustment..................: 0 Auto
tRD Phase2 Adjustment .................: 0 Auto
tRD Phase3 Adjustment..................: 0 Auto
Trd2rd(Different Rank).................: 0 Auto
Twr2wr(Different Rank).................: 0 Auto
Twr2rd(Different Rank).................: 0 Auto
Trd2wr(Same/Diff Rank).................: 0 Auto
Dimm1 Clock Skew Control...............: Auto
Dimm2 Clock Skew Control...............: Auto
DDR Write Training.....................: Auto

Channel A & B Drive Settings
Data Driving Pull Up Level..............Auto
Cmd Driving Pull Up Level..............Auto
Ctrl Driving Pull Up Level..............Auto
Clk Driving Pull Up Level..............Auto

Data Driving Pull Down Level..............Auto
Cmd Driving Pull Down Level..............Auto
Ctrl Driving Pull Down Level..............Auto
Clk Driving Pull Down Level..............Auto

Motherboard Voltage Control
CPU
Load-Line Calibration..................: Disabled AUTO
CPU Vcore..............................: 1.250v AUTO
CPU Termination........................: 1.20V AUTO
CPU PLL................................: 1.50V AUTO
CPU Reference..........................: .76v AUTO


MCH/ICH
MCH Core...............................: 1.1V AUTO
MCH Reference..........................: 0.760v AUTO
MCH/DRAM Ref...........................: 0.90 AUTO
ICH I/O................................: 1.500V AUTO
ICH Core...............................: 1.100V AUTO

DRAM
DRAM Voltage...........................: 1.8v AUTO
DRAM Termination ......................: .9 AUTO
Channel A Reference....................: .9 AUTO
Channel B Reference ...................: .9 AUTO

 

[Dangman]

BillParrish' guide. Have you read this guide? Never heard of it. Where can I find it?

Wow, you've got to be shitting me. I've linked to his guide TWICE already in this thread.

The stats under the PC Health screen vs. what I was seeing in the MIT screen. Apparently, since several of these are set to auto then the PC Health screen is showing what is fact?

CGoes with above question. What I was seeing in the PC Health Screen. The nomenclature doesn't "match" what's listed in the MIT screen. But it's close. I'm not big on assuming with it comes to some tech stuff.

Use CPU-Z to confirm the vCore voltage as well as RAM voltage. PC Health may not be reading the voltages correctly.

5. Set DRAM multiplier to 2.0 Where's this?

It's the setting marked "System Memory Multiplier"

7. As you raise FSB, you'll need to adjust the CPU voltage once you can no longer boot Adjusted to 450 and the BIOS changed the RAM to 900 automatically.

OK, that isn't what he said. See CPU VCore in the BIOs? If your OC is unstable after running Prime 95 or Orthos, enginurd is saying that you should raise that CPU vCore little by little until the OC is stable.

8. If you're going well over 425Mhz FSB, you'll want to change your FSB and MCH voltages to +0.1v (or even higher if you go past 500). For this, you'll want to read through all of the main pages of the guides posted by Danny. Okay, but where and what are these so I can do this. Is it necessary?

Yes it is necessary otherwise Enginurd would not have mentioned it. The MCH is the northbridge on the mobo. When you're increasing the FSB like that, you're also stressing the MCH as well. Therefore in order to keep the MCH happy, we increase the voltage. In this case, set the MCH core to 1.2V.

 

[SBMongoos]

I give up. I can't even log in to Windows on Optimized Defaults. Fuck this. There's just too many variables and I think people don't realize what it's like when you don't have experience doing this. Not to mention we live in a ADD society where we want everything yesterday.

I wonder if it's possible to corrupt Windows drivers so it won't load when you screw with OC'ing.

Also, why is it half the time I have issues posting? I click Save Changes and see a response that says "Fixing". I've actually seen this over the years.

 

[Dangman]

Oh the servers for the forums were moved recently. So there are still some teething and tweaking issues left. So you'll see the Fixing message show up often.

As for the overclocking, yes just everything back to stock and just use your system. Overclock later on when you've had more time learning about your rig, a little more experience, etc.

 

[SBMongoos]

What's the consensus on installing SP3 with XP? I have mixed thoughts with this SP.

 

[tiraides]

Windows XP Service Pack 3 is fine. I've been using it for a few months now with no problems.

If you're that concerned about SP3 damaging your system, perform a clone/backup of your current setup or create a System Restore point before you install the service pack.

 

[SBMongoos]

Something flakey is going on with this new PC. I updated to BIOS F6 and am wondering if I should roll back. I didn't see the BSODs I have like after the update. Too many variables. This has influenced the OCing process as well. I backed off the OCing. Windows wouldn't load some times, or when did lock up or reboot after trying to to OC. Thought maybe it was SP3. Admit being doubtful to that. Guess I'll roll back to F5 and see what happens. Nothing is loaded but Windows on that PC and the SPs. Something is screwy and the RAM is underclocked.

*Edit*
Well rolling back to F5 created an interesting situation. Seems to be in BIOS Auto Recovery and looks like it could take some time. I'm guessing something is hosed here. Reloading a previous BIOS has never been an issue before. This new PC is quickly turning into "I just should have bought a new 478 mb".

*Edit
Fixed: if this occurs you need to power off and disconnected the AC cord from the PSU. The disconnected any hard discs. The system apparently is looking at your HDDs for a BIOS. Apparently, in my case the one I just restored. Seems odd. Once I disconnected the HDDs I plugged in the USB floppy I used for the BIOS downgrade. I found the floppy, read from the disk and rebooted. Then I was back on track.

Apparently going back to F5 did the job. All is solid. Who knows.

 

[SBMongoos]

Okay, here's a question my brother and I have been going back and forth on. I don't remember ever using those little cardboard washers on a PC build. Maybe my first one years ago. But this PC and the last Gigabyte I did not. My brother swears by these. Interestingly enough he thinks I need to install these and any issues would go away. He just built another PC and had been having some flaky things going on. I told him not to bother with the washers as Gigabyte tech support has told me twice they are not needed. He had installed them on his desktop PC on a P35 Mb. This current build is a P45 (Gigabyte). The problems he had cleared right up after he installed these little cardboard washers. Similar happened to his son a while back.

I believe the thought is that it keeps the Mb from shorting out and causing various wacky problems.

What's the scoop on this??

 

[Zero82z]

What's the scoop on this??

It's bullshit. In fact, you shouldn't use the washers, since the motherboard is actually grounded through the mobo screws. If you use the washers, the board won't be grounded properly.

 

[SBMongoos]

It's bullshit. In fact, you shouldn't use the washers, since the motherboard is actually grounded through the mobo screws. If you use the washers, the board won't be grounded properly.

That's what I've always thought. He seems to think there's some kind of power leak or something next door. Don't ask...no idea. Weird shit happens at his house.

 

[SBMongoos]

Okay, either this RAM is the issue or there is something else yet going on. I told myself my last build was going to be it and I was going to get a Dell. Could have saved myself hours and at least got a one year warranty. Yes, I'm frustrated. Shit!

After boot the PC locks up right after the mem test. Can't even get into the BIOS. Was sitting in Windows and came back the the PC rebooted.

Now it just reboots right after mem test. The boot loop (or is it Fruit Loop).

Any bets that I need to add those little cardboard washers to the screws and standoffs.

 

[engiNURD]

I had a quick and dirty simple OC for you at post #268, but I got the "fixing" thing and had to go to a funeral; sorry I didn't get to post it. Its at home, so if and when you're ready, just let me know.

You seem to be in too much of a rush... take a deep breath, relax, and take it slowly. In fact, ignore it for a day or so, so you can cool off.

My guess would be the RAM. Set everything back to default settings in the BIOS, save, reboot, then go in and change your DDR overvoltage control to 2.1v, or whatever OCZ specs are listed at. Run Memtest again, and if you don't get any errors, reinstall windows (or repair the installation). If you get errors, you'll need to RMA the RAM yet again... yes, I know these were replacements, but they're obviously not working right.

Yes, you can mess up a Windows installation if you boot or fail to boot into windows with a bad OC. Did you reformate/reinstall? This is why you step gradually when OC'ing... small steps allow you to correct voltage problems before they cause problems in the OS. Jumping too far ahead typically leads to lack of voltage which causes hardware problems (typically unstable RAM or CPU), which may or may not mess up your windows installation (during boot up, file copies may get corrupted if the cpu or RAM is unstable). A simple OC for your chip is 3.6Ghz (400x9), and trust me, its just that... simple. 450 was quite a high jump from 333, so I'm guessing that may have messed up your windows installation.

As Zero mentioned, modern motherboards are DESIGNED to have mount points as ground points... using those paper washers will not give your board the stable connection to ground that it needs.

 

[SBMongoos]

I can't get into the BIOS.

Thanks for helping out enginurd!

I've set the RAM to 800Mhz and default for the rest except perhaps for a few features you mentioned to disable earlier. Then I did reformat. I was paranoid enough I even used the other disc (identical and no itensions of RAID) to do another fresh install of Windows. I've already backed up using Acronis to external disc.

If I can get into the BIOS I'll check the Mhz for the RAM. I'm sure it was 800Mhz that I set it to and 2.1v. I'm tempted to drop it down to 1.8v. I'm pushing OCZ to replace this.

I'm thinking I need to take my brothers advice with the washers. Too odd that it's fixed his issues several times and again with a new build yesterday for his media center.

***
Edit: tried using the jumper to clear CMOS to see if that would help. No luck. Just reboots, reboots and reboots right at/after memtest.

 

[engiNURD]

Oh, clear your CMOS; unplug your PSU power from the wall, move the CLR_CMOS jumper to the proper pins (refer to mobo manual), and pop out the battery on the mobo... leave it all like this for a few minutes or so, then replace battery, pop the battery back in, and plug the psu back into the wall socket (or surge protector/ups).

I've had numerous problems with DDR2 OCZ RAM when they're not at their rated voltages. Whenever they're at their rated voltages, the sticks run without problems. Anything below and you get tons of memtest errors.