Can air bubbles kill a waterpump.

I happen to like the Koolance setup -- though I've never bought one myself. I know, I know, from what I've read here I must be less than human. I'm building my own rig -- Dtek and whatnot. But I will never bash those that choose Koolance (cause I almost bought one myself but didn't because it cost more than I wanted to spend on a setup).

I like Koolance. I must be... sub-human!

Put that in your sig :p
 
Originally posted by PrkChpXprss
I happen to like the Koolance setup -- though I've never bought one myself. I know, I know, from what I've read here I must be less than human. I'm building my own rig -- Dtek and whatnot. But I will never bash those that choose Koolance (cause I almost bought one myself but didn't because it cost more than I wanted to spend on a setup).

I like Koolance. I must be... sub-human!

Put that in your sig :p
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speaking of sigs..

You have...NO RESPECT!
 
Originally posted by oqvist
Yeah but all that didn´t exist when I got my Koolance and lets face it though my temps will be lower I won´t get higher clocks that I am quite sure off after all the testing I have done with my rig.
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WW has been out for at least a year, heatercores have been around always in cars, panaflos have been good comp fans for years, eheim is an old aquarium pump company, theres more than 1 thing you can do with clamps and tube besides WC

And I used to air cool before and I just couldn´t live with the noise. Had several 68 cfm and 50 cfm fans and like 4-5 case fans based on an Alpha 8045 or similar and yet my case sounded like a DC 9 the cooling wasn´t as good as with my current Koolance. And that is way more quiet.
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then you did things wrong. the loudest part of my case has always been the crappy stock fans that im too cheap to replace. theyre louder than my WC setup, and theyre louder than my zalman 7000 was. both are very, very good cooling.

And if you look at benchies the Koolance CPU isn´t that bad really. Not sure that white water or other blocks would work better in the low flow setup Koolance uses.
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yeh, because theyre designed for a setup that actually has a flow rate.

And I have also said that my next setup I will DIY but it´s quite pointless saying Koolance is crap when it do cool really good. Better than any air cooling that is suitable if you want to sleep in the same room. For me I include noise factors when judging cooling systems.
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ZALMAN 7000 Cu FOR THE TENTH TIME. NEARLY SILENT. AWESOME COOLING. BETTER THAN KOOLANCE.

And you said it again todays computers don´t need watercooling so why would you need a Whitewater based setup if the only purpose for getting it is that watercooling is your hobby?
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youve pretty much hit it. im a modder and an OCer so WC is what I like (starting to love).

For others who just wants the benefits of watercooling Koolance is great and isn´t really that expensively priced. I mean it still let us overclock our chips to it limits so what´s the deal. Plus it presetup it´s widely tested and you get good support plus it´s very easy to maintain. All without having to drill anything in your case and stuff. Just plug and play really. It works and you don´t have to think about it.
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thats not a good thing. you should have to think about what youre doing. people are becoming lazier and dumber and it sucks, because no one wants to know WHY something works or how to do it, they just want to overpay someone (yes it IS very overpriced) else to do it.

So I still don´t see why Koolance should be considered garbage???
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overpriced, underperforming, doesnt follow standards, list goes on.
 
This is why Koolance is good

Reasonable priced :p/good performing :p/good safety functions/no need to mod :p /high quality :p list goes on
 
Originally posted by oqvist
This is why Koolance is good

Reasonable priced :p/good performing :p/good safety functions/no need to mod :p /high quality :p list goes on
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But its not. Ive already broken it down but Ill do it again

Price: For the same price you paid, you can get a high end watercooling system. You can nearly get DIY phase change but thats a little extreme for now.

Performance: No, its not. It loses time and time again at benchmarks, analysis, etc

Safety functions: If one pump dies, your system slowly starts overheating until the other pump either dies (at which point the safety functions kick in) or your system blows up. In any case wouldnt you be much happier with being able to actually SEE the pump and make sure its working, as well as having a major namebrand pump with a proven reliability record?

No need to mod: If you cant either cut two holes for the radiator, I weep for you.

Quality: They use aluminum, which doesnt perform nearly as well as copper for heat transfer. They use 1/4 inch ID tubing with very thin walls...low end stuff. They designed terrible, tight, restrictive blocks that kill flow rate.
 
Originally posted by kronchev
anyone who doesnt want to "fuss" with watercooling really shouldnt be attempting computers until they are ready to put time and effort towards learning how to do it. thats just my opinion but I'd rather see my favorite hobby have less people who know what theyre doing rather than a lot of people who would rather buy a kit and put it in because they dont want to bother to learn how to do it right.

Koolance accessories are NOT nice. I was looking at the chipset block they have (since its more than $10 cheaper than any others) and its 1) terrible, restrictive design 2) uses 1/4 which is NOT WC standard nor practical in any sense of the words and 3) its aluminum which DOESNT fit with any other parts and just causes problems.
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People have said this about computers for years....there were those who wanted computers to be in every home, and others who wnated it to be an item only for those who understand electronics and how to use a computer. Now if computers didnt become as common as they are now...I can bet you $100 that we wouldn't even have anything comparable to a Pentium II right now. Sames goes for Watercooling....there will be many shit-tastic products out there at first, as there is with everything. But, after a while, when it becomes more common, people will actually wnat it to perform better, and that is where the design enhancements will come from. Basically what just happened is that 20 or so companies are doing what a handful of hobbyists were doing. Bad part is to get to that piont takes time, lots of it.

As far as their units...2) is standard for their rigs, as there is not documented standard, then nothing can be non-standard....proprietary yes, but not non-standard. 3) Yep, it's a mixed metal system...I'll never understand it, but I guess that's what their special coolant blend is for. 1) Very few chipset blocks have a good design...most are two 90degree bends, or one 45 degree bend.

The thing to remember is they are taking differnet aspect of watercooling. In some regions of the world, using large diameter tubing is questiones in their watercooling circles, and 1/4ID or whatever the metric tubing about that size is the more common size....and their systems tend to be just as effective as our large tube systems. I have no clue where this large tubing is better thing came from, but if I'm running temps with 3/8" as low as I am....I find it hard to understand why anyone would want to go 1/2", but I'm not going to knock it either.
 
1/2" has a lot better flow. pretty much all there is to it..you wont want to go 3/8 with a whitewater or RBX...they need high flow.

and as much as I dont like koolance, im going to buy the chipset cooler as Im planning on eventually WCing my k6-2 500 server with spare parts...

i hope youre right that it can only help.

and i dont mean just the chipset blocks, I mean the CPU blocks as well.
 
Originally posted by oqvist
This is why Koolance is good

Reasonable priced :p/good performing :p/good safety functions/no need to mod :p /high quality :p list goes on
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$220 is a lot of money.

Good performing? If you consider sk7 to slk800 level air cooling awesome, sure....

Safety functions? It's marketing bs to scare you.

No need to mod? May I suggest a better forum for you?
http://www.community.tomshardware.com/forum/categories.m

High quality? The whole thing is made of cheap plastic. How many stories of pumps failing and leaking have I heard?
 
My sig is a bit outdated so you can't go by it for what I'm saying right now, clock speeds are different and so is the cooling.

This was by no means a stable overclock but it will work for my purposes here. I had my system running 12x200 to see what I could do with my new EXOS. This is an XP2400+ T-Bred B running at 1.85 volts. Actually, a bit higher I believe since Asus boards have a tendancy to overvolt the CPU a bit. I was running Prime95 for about a half hour before it crashed. My CPU temps in that half hour averaged 37C with peaks at 39C. My room temp was around 23C and case temp was around 25C. I would say that is not too bad of a temp for watercooling. That is not the temps that the Koolance unit is reporting. It likes to be around 8-9C lower than the CPU on-die temp.

Looking at kronchev's sig, I notice that is what his mobile 2400+ is running at except at a lower voltage. Yes, there are some core differences but at the moment I'm not exactly sure how much difference that would make on the temps but I doubt it would be drastic between the cores. Considering your high end watercooling setup should be completely trashing my EXOS, why isn't it?

Also, do you know my reasons for going with the EXOS? How about every other person that has bought a Koolance product? How can you jump all over everyone that has bought one?

It's not for you to judge who should and should not have a watercooling setup and what they should have.

I don't have the time to put together a custom setup for myself. I'd have to buy a new case to do it. Then I would have to mod it which is something I don't have the mechanical inclination to do. Because of that you think I should not go near watercooling. I say you have no idea what you are talking about. I work full time and raise my son on my own. btw, he's three years old. I'd like to see you in my position and actually spend time with him and still have plenty of time to mess with putting together a custom watercooling system. Guess what, I don't have more than a couple of hours tops every night to myself and I don't plan on spending all of that trying to put a custom system together. I do have other things I like to do and other hobbies.

To make a long story short, you have no right to degrade people for buying a Koolance system. You have no reason to call it shit. I don't see you owning one, so I would like to know how you have personal experience to call one shit. The temps I get and many others get with our Koolance systems are more than respectable. Hell, your temps aren't much better than mine and my CPU is actually running hotter than yours due to the increased voltage.

I suggest you retract much of what you have said because it is uncalled for and in many cases just flat out wrong.
 
Originally posted by SmokeRngs
Considering your high end watercooling setup should be completely trashing my EXOS, why isn't it?
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Bump the voltage up to 2.1 and then see which setup does drastically better.

You don't buy a watercooling setup to run at near to stock voltages...
 
Well to your initial problem.If you had been air bubble free then there is something letting in the air.Simple as that. Or the system hesl a pocket of air for a long time and just released it.I would guess you are sucking air though..

by the way a high end coling system is not any where near 400 dollars. I just order a complete set up for my Dual rig part by part and I am running at about $200.00 total.. I am sure there will be incidental costs yet but still for a dual processor box that is pretty cheap considering a real good heat sink set up is over 100.00 and noisy.
 
Originally posted by diehrd
Well to your initial problem.If you had been air bubble free then there is something letting in the air.Simple as that. Or the system hesl a pocket of air for a long time and just released it.I would guess you are sucking air though..

by the way a high end coling system is not any where near 400 dollars. I just order a complete set up for my Dual rig part by part and I am running at about $200.00 total.. I am sure there will be incidental costs yet but still for a dual processor box that is pretty cheap considering a real good heat sink set up is over 100.00 and noisy.
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My point is that you need a 400$ wc setup to achieve significantly better overclocks than with a Koolance ;) those 200$ Whitewater stuff don´t really cut it to make the difference.

Yes I hope that is the problem thus I am going to redo all connections. Some has been there since I got the case and those connections may have to be redone I guess.
 
Originally posted by Giblet Plus!
Bump the voltage up to 2.1 and then see which setup does drastically better.

You don't buy a watercooling setup to run at near to stock voltages...
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Then why is the guy running a high end setup running near stock voltages? Why isn't he running 2.1 volts?

If my board allowed for vcore up to 2.1 I would more than likely run it. But I don't have time to mess with volt mods and probably don't have the talent to do it if it requires soldering.

Also, according to much of what I have been reading here, no one that isn't going to completely rebuild a car with high performance parts shouldn't have anything other than the lowest end car you can get. You aren't going to put the time into modding it so you shouldn't have it. That is the analogy I'm seeing here. It's also bs and everyone knows it.
 
Originally posted by kronchev
1/2" has a lot better flow. pretty much all there is to it..you wont want to go 3/8 with a whitewater or RBX...they need high flow.
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Actually you need higher pressure for blocks like that, not flow.

And this thread is going in cirlces, I vote for a peaceful end before it gets locked.
 
Yeah one last question though.

If I get air somehow coming into my wc setup without obviously leaking anywhere would that cause waterscum in my reservoir? Considering Koolance low flow it shouldn´t really be enough to case waterscum would it ;)
 
Originally posted by SmokeRngs
Then why is the guy running a high end setup running near stock voltages? Why isn't he running 2.1 volts?

If my board allowed for vcore up to 2.1 I would more than likely run it. But I don't have time to mess with volt mods and probably don't have the talent to do it if it requires soldering.

Also, according to much of what I have been reading here, no one that isn't going to completely rebuild a car with high performance parts shouldn't have anything other than the lowest end car you can get. You aren't going to put the time into modding it so you shouldn't have it. That is the analogy I'm seeing here. It's also bs and everyone knows it.
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what guy?

and the koolance would definatly choke on it

this has NOTHING to do with cars. see you can have a fast car and itll run fine. you can have a fast computer and itll run fine. if you buy APC parts for your car (car people will know what im talknig about), youre not going to get the performance of a good manufacturer, plus youll probabily end up spending more. if you buy a koolance instead of a real watercooling system, youll not going to get the good performance and definatly will be paying more.


for those of you who say that koolance is a good system, let me just relate what happened not an hour ago

I went and got that chipset block on a whim. after all, watercooling my k6-2 500 seems like a fun project, and doing it cheaply seems fun as well. well I get the block, and the thing is, I shit you not, SMALLER THAN A P4. and they claim, that itll have acceptiable cooling properties for a chip that gets pretty damn hot? AND not only that, but I didnt realize how small 1/4" really was. its like pinholes. plus the thing, you hold it, and it LOOKS cheaply made, it FEELS cheaply made. for christs sake they sealed it with GLUE, they didnt even solder the connections! definatly not worth $20, im going to return it and the fan I bought (I thought i could save on shipping at compusa if I got both things there), and just pay maybe $2-3 more and get both a spir@l and the exact same fan, from dtek.
 
Originally posted by zer0signal667
Actually you need higher pressure for blocks like that, not flow.

And this thread is going in cirlces, I vote for a peaceful end before it gets locked.
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thats true. but if youre going to get a good block, why would you go for the lesser size when 1/2 inch is the same price?
 
Originally posted by kronchev
what guy?

and the koolance would definatly choke on it

this has NOTHING to do with cars. see you can have a fast car and itll run fine. you can have a fast computer and itll run fine. if you buy APC parts for your car (car people will know what im talknig about), youre not going to get the performance of a good manufacturer, plus youll probabily end up spending more. if you buy a koolance instead of a real watercooling system, youll not going to get the good performance and definatly will be paying more.


for those of you who say that koolance is a good system, let me just relate what happened not an hour ago

I went and got that chipset block on a whim. after all, watercooling my k6-2 500 seems like a fun project, and doing it cheaply seems fun as well. well I get the block, and the thing is, I shit you not, SMALLER THAN A P4. and they claim, that itll have acceptiable cooling properties for a chip that gets pretty damn hot? AND not only that, but I didnt realize how small 1/4" really was. its like pinholes. plus the thing, you hold it, and it LOOKS cheaply made, it FEELS cheaply made. for christs sake they sealed it with GLUE, they didnt even solder the connections! definatly not worth $20, im going to return it and the fan I bought (I thought i could save on shipping at compusa if I got both things there), and just pay maybe $2-3 more and get both a spir@l and the exact same fan, from dtek.
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Have you tried 2.1 volts on a Koolance setup? Doesn't sound like it. I'd also bet I could do it. Would the temps still be at 37C? Not a chance. But then again, your temps wouldn't be the same either.

You say this has nothing to do with cars. It does. Adding performance parts to a car is the same as adding performance parts to a computer. Just because you don't buy the best performance parts doesn't mean they aren't performance parts anyway. Also, just because some of the performance parts for a car are easier to install and may cost a bit more doesn't mean that it's shit because you can get something cheaper but is harder to install. I enjoy working on cars, but I'm going to go an easier route if there is one when doing something. I don't have to make something hard to make myself feel better about doing it.
 
Originally posted by kronchev
thats true. but if youre going to get a good block, why would you go for the lesser size when 1/2 inch is the same price?
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Because in come cases 1/2" will actually perform worse depending on the other componants in the system or the other componants the person would like to use eventually.

There are no "standards" to watercooling. I can go buy a block with 1/2" fittings and find out my 1/2" tubing doesn't fit. Why doesn't it fit? Because one is 1/2" outer diameter and the other is 1/2" inner diameter. Many times it's not specified where the measurement was taken.
 
Originally posted by SmokeRngs
Have you tried 2.1 volts on a Koolance setup? Doesn't sound like it. I'd also bet I could do it. Would the temps still be at 37C? Not a chance. But then again, your temps wouldn't be the same either.

You say this has nothing to do with cars. It does. Adding performance parts to a car is the same as adding performance parts to a computer. Just because you don't buy the best performance parts doesn't mean they aren't performance parts anyway. Also, just because some of the performance parts for a car are easier to install and may cost a bit more doesn't mean that it's shit because you can get something cheaper but is harder to install. I enjoy working on cars, but I'm going to go an easier route if there is one when doing something. I don't have to make something hard to make myself feel better about doing it.
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you couldnt do 2.1v on a koolance, thats the point, the temps would be too much for it to handle. could i? with a new fan yes. right now with my shitty fan that pulls nothing, probabily not.

and youre assuming watercooling is hard to install, WHICH ITS NOT. DIY is cheaper than koolance, easy to do (ANYONE can figure it out and not break something), and performs better. if you cant take the time to do it right, why would you pay more for it to be done wrong? thats exactly like with cars. if youre not going to take the time to work on it right and get it done right, why would you pay a lot of money for something to be done worse?
 
Originally posted by SmokeRngs
Because in come cases 1/2" will actually perform worse depending on the other componants in the system or the other componants the person would like to use eventually.

There are no "standards" to watercooling. I can go buy a block with 1/2" fittings and find out my 1/2" tubing doesn't fit. Why doesn't it fit? Because one is 1/2" outer diameter and the other is 1/2" inner diameter. Many times it's not specified where the measurement was taken.
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Maybe there arent "watercooling standards" but there are other standards that were in place long before WC came around, and those say that barbs are measured OD, tubing is measured both ID and OD (and are CLEARLY MARKED).

and the only way a 1/2" would perform worse would be with a weak ass pump. remember, if were picking out the tubing, were probabily DIY, so were not using a koolance pump.
 
Originally posted by SmokeRngs
Because in come cases 1/2" will actually perform worse depending on the other componants in the system or the other componants the person would like to use eventually.

There are no "standards" to watercooling. I can go buy a block with 1/2" fittings and find out my 1/2" tubing doesn't fit. Why doesn't it fit? Because one is 1/2" outer diameter and the other is 1/2" inner diameter. Many times it's not specified where the measurement was taken.
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I don't know about that... do you have any proof? Think of it this way, would you wire a house with steel or copper wires, knowing that copper has much higher electrical conductivity (lower resistivity)? Compare to water lines- the larger tubing is equivalent to lower resistivity.
 
Originally posted by oqvist
My point is that you need a 400$ wc setup to achieve significantly better overclocks than with a Koolance ;) those 200$ Whitewater stuff don´t really cut it to make the difference.
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Uh, I don't think I have ever heard a more untrue comment. I'm dead serious. What are you talking about.....I don't care if you blow the water with your mouth through the tubes, anything with a Whitewater in it will trash an EXOS throughly.
 
Originally posted by SmokeRngs
Have you tried 2.1 volts on a Koolance setup? Doesn't sound like it. I'd also bet I could do it. Would the temps still be at 37C? Not a chance. But then again, your temps wouldn't be the same either.
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Yeah, you're right. Temps on his setup would be around 35C. Yours would be will into the upper 40's.

Come on, I know nobody on here REALLY thinks that for the same price a Koolance could compete with this....I wonder if they are all joking...if not, this place has become ridiculously {S}oft. COME ON PEOPLE, ITS AN EXOS! Its ok for what its meant for (albiet terribly overpriced), and I have no problem with people saying "Oh its easy to use" (except what they fail to realize is that they still have to install the exact same number of blocks and the same tubing :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: ), but all this crap about the exos performing well?!?!?!? My gosh people, compare it to this setup below for practically the same price...

Dtek Whitewater = $54
Dtek ProCore Combo with shroud and fan = $66
Danger Den Maze4 GPU Block = $40
Danner Mag 3 = $40
Bay Res = $25
Tubing = can find anywhere for cheap locally, same with hose clamps, I got like 20 at Home Depot for like 4 bucks
total = $225

Do you REALLY think an EXOS could compete with this? Tell you what, send an email to EXOS engineers, I bet you even they will admit its not meant to compete with DIY rigs. It can't. It wasn't meant to.

And about the silence advantages, what a load of crap. If all you are into is ease of use and silence, get the Zalman, or even better, the Thermalright SP-94 with a Panaflo L1a fan. FAR quieter than the EXOS, and, well, performance wise, do you REALLY think that EXOS can take my chip to 3.8ghz? I think not...
 
Originally posted by computerpro3
Uh, I don't think I have ever heard a more untrue comment. I'm dead serious. What are you talking about.....I don't care if you blow the water with your mouth through the tubes, anything with a Whitewater in it will trash an EXOS throughly.
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Not in term of overclock. Temps it will definiatly be better ;)
 
Originally posted by oqvist
Not in term of overclock. Temps it will definiatly be better ;)
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If a cooler performs better, it will usually produce a better overclock. That's why we go from aircooling to watercooling. That drop in temps nets a better overclock, just like another drop in temps from low-end to high-end watercooling probably will.
 
Originally posted by oqvist
Not in term of overclock. Temps it will definiatly be better ;)
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are you dumb? the whole point that EVERYONE WHO KNOWS what theyre talking about has been "koolance is fine for a stock setup but when overclocking anything else will kick its ass." I cant believe youre even PRETENDING that the koolance would beat a whitewater. i bet you think that a cascade is a shitty block too :rolleyes:
 
How about we have some on each side OC their stuff as high as it can go, and compare...instead of this lame penis-swinging thats going on.

Really, this thread is turning into a merry-go-round of repeated short answers...

If any of you are audiophiles...you'll notice this exact line of arguments about cables....everyone is right in some minor detail except "How EXACTLY does this affect my system?" Maybe it's time to dig into this.

If you want a simple "how cool can you get on X" I'll get some nice thermometers and thermocouples form work and give you some of my temps to add to this...BTW I use a swiftech/eheim/D-Tek setup.

But seriously, this thread has had no intellectual progression of any kind in it's entire duration.....how about we either kill this thread off, or try to actually make something useful out of it?
 
Originally posted by kronchev
you couldnt do 2.1v on a koolance, thats the point, the temps would be too much for it to handle. could i? with a new fan yes. right now with my shitty fan that pulls nothing, probabily not.

and youre assuming watercooling is hard to install, WHICH ITS NOT. DIY is cheaper than koolance, easy to do (ANYONE can figure it out and not break something), and performs better. if you cant take the time to do it right, why would you pay more for it to be done wrong? thats exactly like with cars. if youre not going to take the time to work on it right and get it done right, why would you pay a lot of money for something to be done worse?
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I run 2.1 volts with my zalman 6000-Cu + vantec tornado 92mm @ 3000 RPM. My temps never go over 125 F

if a w/c system cant do that, that's really sad...

( of course I'm using a t-bred, so the barton might be a different story... )
 
Were the second poster and I the only people to post something meaningful to the thread starter's question? lol!
 
Originally posted by mustang_steve
How about we have some on each side OC their stuff as high as it can go, and compare...instead of this lame penis-swinging thats going on.
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Because different processors overclock differently. However, following your approach, shouldn't the top watercooled scores on the orb be done with an Exos?

Maybe a scientific approach, such as this tests like the ones here would be better....
 
For what its worth, and I know most of you have prob seen me say this, but I get about 5c lower on my exos than I did with my eheim 1250 swiftech and dteck heater core setup, the exos really is a good product, I have allways thought that is was a crap product until I actually tried it. Only thing is I dont have my voltage bumped up as it didnt help me get a better oc :( Anyways I thought I would stick up for the exos as it truly is a better product than most give it credit for.

Now I am building a rbx/danner mag 5/ and dangerden dual heatercore all in a shuttle case :)
 
Originally posted by foolio
For what its worth, and I know most of you have prob seen me say this, but I get about 5c lower on my exos than I did with my eheim 1250 swiftech and dteck heater core setup, the exos really is a good product, I have allways thought that is was a crap product until I actually tried it. Only thing is I dont have my voltage bumped up as it didnt help me get a better oc :( Anyways I thought I would stick up for the exos as it truly is a better product than most give it credit for.

Now I am building a rbx/danner mag 5/ and dangerden dual heatercore all in a shuttle case :)
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Then you ahd something wrong with your first watercooling system.
The shuttle endeavor sounds cool, is that with the PC still in there, or just as a WC enclosure? keep us updated
 
just for the wc setup, thats the reason I bought my koolance to begin with was I wanted an enclosed unit for everything.

As for having my swifty set up wrong, I dont think so as I tried it as many differant ways as I could think and in everyway so far the koolance 200g block and exos al has perormed better than that set up did.
 
Originally posted by boshi
I run 2.1 volts with my zalman 6000-Cu + vantec tornado 92mm @ 3000 RPM. My temps never go over 125 F

if a w/c system cant do that, that's really sad...

( of course I'm using a t-bred, so the barton might be a different story... )
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thats a terrible temp...the proc is gonna melt OCed like that and not being cooled correctly...
 
Originally posted by foolio

Now I am building a rbx/danner mag 5/ and dangerden dual heatercore all in a shuttle case :)
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Don't get the Mag 5, the Mag 3 is much better for watercooling use. Also, you don't have to buy the dual core from dangerden, you can get it cheaper from an autoparts store. It's really a 1971-75 Chevy Caprice core.
 
Originally posted by Giblet Plus!
Don't get the Mag 5, the Mag 3 is much better for watercooling use. Also, you don't have to buy the dual core from dangerden, you can get it cheaper from an autoparts store. It's really a 1971-75 Chevy Caprice core.
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its 35 from dangerden and they put the barbs in for you. its best for someone just starting out.
 
Originally posted by kronchev
its 35 from dangerden and they put the barbs in for you. its best for someone just starting out.
Click to expand...

The thing is, you don't need barbs on the chevy caprice core. 1/2" id tubing slips right over the 5/8" tubing on the core. That saves you the restriction of 1/2" barbs with a true 3/8" ID.
 
Originally posted by Giblet Plus!
The thing is, you don't need barbs on the chevy caprice core. 1/2" id tubing slips right over the 5/8" tubing on the core. That saves you the restriction of 1/2" barbs with a true 3/8" ID.
Click to expand...


interesting...ill be keeping that in mind
 
Originally posted by Giblet Plus!
The thing is, you don't need barbs on the chevy caprice core. 1/2" id tubing slips right over the 5/8" tubing on the core. That saves you the restriction of 1/2" barbs with a true 3/8" ID.
Click to expand...

Really? I didn't know that either. I'll have to save that piece of information for future reference.
 
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