Yeah that things is super dim compared to the TV's. Probably gimped for durability/longevity sake.My squares disappear at 550 on the Gigabyte FO48U
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Yeah that things is super dim compared to the TV's. Probably gimped for durability/longevity sake.My squares disappear at 550 on the Gigabyte FO48U
Meh. It's been significantly cheaper recently.The LG C2 42" is on sale at Amazon for $1000. To me, that's insane. Even I'm tempted to buy this oversized monster at that price. Maybe I haven't been paying attention, but I didn't know that pricing was so low.
(This is just a shortened, non-affiliate Amazon link) https://a.co/d/1TAOG51
First impressions, wow F . . . amazing! Pick one up at Bestbuy for $999 + tax. GSync, HDR, 120hz work perfectly with the 3090. Not sure what I like better, the motion clarity (makes VA panels look sick), the blacks/contrast, HDR is heaven like in FarCry 6. See how it goes when I get more time with it. LG 42" C2.The LG C2 42" is on sale at Amazon for $1000. To me, that's insane. Even I'm tempted to buy this oversized monster at that price. Maybe I haven't been paying attention, but I didn't know that pricing was so low.
(This is just a shortened, non-affiliate Amazon link) https://a.co/d/1TAOG51
I'm 1/6so just to get an update: exactly how many people has problem w/ the Asus Display port
ASW/reprojection is already being done on VR headsets, but not to the degree we were talking about so that sentiment is understandable. It's definitely not a tech that has been exploited on pc gaming monitors/tvs as of yet. Perhaps due to cost to implement hardware wise and dev cost/work involved. So reprojection, which works on immediate screen redraws and is pixel shifting different planes (foreground vs background), does exist and can be seen in VR headsets. At the very least the framerate x2 (1 normal rendered frame +1 pixel shifted redraw per frame). I think even that could be great on PC.
Nvidia's frame insertion on the other hand seems to be taking the time for two frames and comparing them, manufacturing a "tween" frame without any z-axis information - instead relying on AI analysis of the difference between the two rendered frames to figure out what the objects and vectors are..
As I understand it, reprojection tech needs x,y as well as z-axis and vector info from the drivers/games in order to pixel shift the frame redraws - forecasting where to reproject the pixels. In VR it's using your head and hand movement and I think it's also using broadcasted axis/vectors of virtual objects in the scene but a pc could do it with input/drivers from the peripherals plus the game engine broadcasting vectors.. Nvidias method instead seems to go another actual frame delivered and then go back in time sort-of with a manufactured frame.
. . . .
VR has big budgets and has surpassed pc OS+screen tech in some facets. Development for VR likely goes into it expecting a vector based incl. z-axis coding working hand in hand with the hardware environment like that. PC gaming hasn't made that leap in hardware/os/drivers/game engines and development, at least not yet. Frame amplification technologies seem to be the way to go going forward though with nvidia now jumping on board, even if with immature tech so far.
. . . . .
Would be great if it didn't infringe on what the display could otherwise achieve in HDR color volumes without BFI being active. The rule of thumb in screen blanking used to be that for each % blur reduction, the peak brightness would be cut by around that much (e.g. 25% blur reduction ~> 25% brightness reduction, 50% blur reduction ~> roughly 50% brightness reduction). I'm not sure how that equates if they used rolling scans or partial scans on OLEDs in modern hardware. HDR needs all the range it can get. Hopefully it won't be like some of the "HDR 400" screens.
BFI typically needs very high frame rate minimums to work optimally too, which doesn't jive with VRR's usage scenario very well either. (Squeezing higher graphics settings in and riding a VRR roller coaster of frame rates smoothly). So far idk of any VRR+BFI displays that worked properly, though it's technically possible. For BFI it was usually recommended that the minimum fps be higher than the peak Hz of the display, massively exceeding it best case scenario. . - However - BFI could also benefit from DLSS AI upscaling and frame amplification technologies in that regard. (But at that point I'd probably just stick with the blur reduction gained by the amplified fpsHz if it was to 500fpsHz on a 500Hz or to 1000fpsHz 1000Hz screen, will have to see).
I'm definitely intrigued with the HDR VR aspect just from curiosity about the tech at the very least. Meta is also developing HDR capable headset tech in house already, for future gens, but I have no idea what specs and tech combo any VR headsets are using to attempt HDR color volumes + blur reduction and what the end results would be in their first HDR generation. (However for all of the advancements in VR, the PPD is still incredibly poor unfortunately).
As of now, BFI on desktop pcs is essentially incompatible with HDR, and VRR afaik in practice, (not sure about raytracing either) - but for sure we'll see how tech progresses and on which fronts.
OLED cannot go 2x as bright without serious issues. They've had to use lots of tricks to reduce power use on PC displays to prevent excess wear. Cell decay increases exponentially with power.And I really do think they could allow the pixels to go 2x or 4x brighter in BFI mode to support HDR, since they wouldn't heat up like they do in sample and hold mode. Only problem is that I don't think LGD is interested in doing the R&D necessary to support that
OLED cannot go 2x as bright without serious issues. They've had to use lots of tricks to reduce power use on PC displays to prevent excess wear. Cell decay increases exponentially with power.
And they've had to use white OLED to increase brightness for HDR.
No chance they can double the brightness without drastically shortening the life. 4x the brightness, not happening. At least not with current tech.
Maybe if they were water cooled but thats a big step.
Cell decay still increases exponentially with power.It's not sustained brightness though. It would be 1-2ms of intense brightness with 14-15ms of darkness, for 60hz.
Cell decay still increases exponentially with power.
Inevitably wear will be faster but is not so bad when enough cooling is present.So you think running my desktop at 50 brightness with BFI is wearing it down way faster than 27 without BFI? Percetpually I'm seeing roughly equal brightness between the two (on my FO48U). I think brightness on my monitors is basically the same setting as "OLED backlight" on the TVs
Great. You get to be the "there's always one in every thread" guy today!Meh. It's been significantly cheaper recently.
Cool, you get to be the "someone didn't read anything before reposting" guy today!Great. You get to be the "there's always one in every thread" guy today!
We can play that game if you want. I expect you to write zero questions ever. Because if this is about how much you're educated or done research that's an impossible metric.Cool, you get to be the "someone didn't read anything before reposting" guy today!
Completely off the point. Drunk post?We can play that game if you want. I expect you to write zero questions ever. Because if this is about how much you're educated or done research that's an impossible metric.
Which was the point of my post. You want me or others to live up to an impossible metric of having perfect knowledge about 'what you think is relevant' while not really being able to keep that same standard for yourself.
Guess we're all supposed to have perfect historical product pricing information from all products as long as GT is around. Good to know.
Alright got a 30" depth desk, certainly makes 42" C2 far more tolerable. Might keep it as a main monitor now.
He might just be using it as a stabilizer/kick-stand there, not certain.What arm is that? It has some good reach
Looks like an arm since the feet are not on the tv and it is hovering over the desk perfectly level. Interested in this one too.He might just be using it as a stabilizer/kick-stand there, not certain.
What arm is that? It has some good reach
First impressions, wow F . . . amazing! Pick one up at Bestbuy for $999 + tax. GSync, HDR, 120hz work perfectly with the 3090. Not sure what I like better, the motion clarity (makes VA panels look sick), the blacks/contrast, HDR is heaven like in FarCry 6. See how it goes when I get more time with it. LG 42" C2.
As a side note, with age my far vision is getting better -> weird. Unfortunately my near vision is getting worst and normal monitor distances means glasses, with this monitor further back I am back in focus without needing glasses.
Ergotron LX. HX is probably better for this tho.
The issue might be the table rather than the arm. I would recommend a wall mount instead.I had the LX also for the 42 but I felt it was wobbling too much. Not sure if the HX would be sturdier.
I had the LX also for the 42 but I felt it was wobbling too much. Not sure if the HX would be sturdier.
The issue might be the table rather than the arm. I would recommend a wall mount instead.
Mounted my LG 48CX!
Reviewed in the United States on November 23, 2020
Great mount, plenty of adjustability and very modular for different vesa mounting (300x200). The pictures and how the bracket comes has the swivel mounted upside down. Easy fix, just unscrew the swivel and mount it the correct direction. Comes with various screw sizes, but only 2 kinds of 6mm screws, short or long. Had to cut the long ones because the short ones were too short, not a big deal. Used the thinner plastic spacer and tada!! Mounts the 48CX like a charm.You're welcome.
OUT!So, I bought the LG C2 42 for $899 shipped to my door. I used it for 2 days and returned it.
So, I bought the LG C2 48 for $999.
I guess I can no longer post in this thread
I get it, I am keeping the 42 for PC but now I want the 77 for the man cave :|So, I bought the LG C2 42 for $899 shipped to my door. I used it for 2 days and returned it.
So, I bought the LG C2 48 for $999.
I guess I can no longer post in this thread
It's so worth it, I put the 77" C2 in my bedroom and it's a whole another level of entertainment.I get it, I am keeping the 42 for PC but now I want the 77 for the man cave :|
Some owner pics here. I have similar speakers to these. Polks with black wooden housings. Center speaker looks similar though my CS2 center speaker has a black wooden housing like I said. Picture makes everything seem smaller. That's a huge TV and ~ 25" long center speaker.
I'd be wary of keeping an OLED's back to a window if you ever let the sun and heat in. Pic shows the slim, clean design. I use velcro strips on the pillar out of sight behind the tv in order to manage the cables out of sight behind the main pillar.
These type of stands use a rack system on the back of the VESA mount, which you then hang onto the stand like the rungs of a ladder.
Though there are two screw in wedges or chocks that you screw in to the bottom to hold the brackets against the rungs - I also added a few strong black zip ties, a single one on each side through the holes in the rectangular section and around each "field goal" upright, just as a safety precaution once it was on the base pillar/rung.
You can make out the little screw in chocks/breaks on the bottom of this pic below:
I use these safety straps to the wall, since I have cats.
TV Anti-Tip Heavy Duty Dual Cable, Non Tipping Safety Strap Kit for Flat Screen and Furniture Mounting STAND-SK02 (Amazon Link)
I only used one strap and it's only about 6" from the wall.
................................
I keep it on one of these oppli tv stands, though on mine I took off the caster wheels. Overall Ends up being direct line of sight to middle of screen area. I keep my receiver in the middle boxed section. Nvidia shield 2019, a gigabit switch and some other misc stuff on the shelves.
Here are settings guides from the two most respected display sites but the do not mention color accuracy just overall picture quality:Haven't fully calibrated my C2 yet; any recommendations or guides on getting it calibrated for color correction accuracy without a colorimeter? Not a professional colorist but I often have to finish videos for work. Not rigorous perfection needed, just good enough. Besides calibrating for nits and contrast I'm not sure how I would adjust color or white balance.
. . . . .I'll second the wall mount, or alternatively a floor mount. I upgraded from the CX48 to the C242, but even then you want to be ~42" away and be at an eye-level of at least 3/4 of the way up.
Personally I avoid wall mounts because I prefer things modular so that I can move them around, changing the whole room orientation or even adjusting positioning slightly if I decide I want to. The floor stands are great and do nearly the same thing, with a thin black rail to what is essentially a wall/vesa mount. Just my personal preference.I'll second the wall mount, or alternatively a floor mount.
For me, I think of it like a band across the middle 1/3 of the screen. I want to be in that area, like an invisible dotted line from eyeballs to the screen.. The more centered the better vs exacerbating screen shift/off angle issues on various screens. Uniformity issues are worst on the left and right sides but they can also happen at the top and bottom (especially on VA screens if looking "from the bottom" band portion of the screen so to speak). I'd rather be perfectly centered but as long as I'm in the middle belt I'm good.be at an eye-level of at least 3/4 of the way up.
even then you want to be ~42" away
Wonder if anyone else is delaying or not planning to disable the auto brightness limiter on the C2 42 or other C2s. I probably have ASBL as opposed to ABL which I learned about from earlier in the thread and other sources. (Auto Static Brightness Limiter or ASBL vs Auto Brightness Limiter or ABL). (Edit): I figure I must have one or the other or both.
And this is nothing new and sorry for dragging it up again but on my C2 42 the brightness dims after a few minutes or so when I'm idle on the desktop, or in some games and other apps. Which is ASBL I think and it's annoying of course but not an app or game breaker. I just click or move something and the brightness goes back up.
But to me it seems like a hassle to order a physical service remote from some website in order to access the service menu to disable it. I just don't feel like bothering with it and maybe others are in the same boat. And not aware of another method, maybe I didn't see it in pages from months ago. And apparently ABL, which is mainly to do with HDR I think, can't be disabled wherever it occurs. which I guess is in some games and apps with HDR fully enabled or however it is properly described.