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I contacted Costco to see if I could setup an exchange, but they told me that the monitor is no longer available. I assume that just means that won't carry it anymore.
Now I have to decide if I want to keep this one, or return it and buy from some other source.
I contacted Costco to see if I could setup an exchange, but they told me that the monitor is no longer available. I assume that just means that won't carry it anymore.
Now I have to decide if I want to keep this one, or return it and buy from some other source.
Since I game pretty heavily on the monitor, it's not a huge issue for me but it is one of those things that just nags at the back of my mind, making me regret giving AMD another chance. Not too much longer until I can swap it out with an 880, at least.
If its £499 in UK then there is 99% chance that it also be $499 in US or even cheaper!A lot of post of the release of the u3477Pqu today if you do a google search says its going to be in the UK from September with an RRP of £499 inc VAT.. Wondering what it's going to be in the US.
Any news lately on the Dell U3415W?
I'm very interested in the LG 34UM95, but with all of its problems (DP 1.2 issues, QC issues, good looking but mediocre stand, etc.) it feels like it might be better to wait for the Dell U3415W (likely more $$$, but usually Dell is pretty good with QC) until LG releases a 34UM95 v2.
I'm all for taking risks on new technology, but I'm stationed overseas so I REALLY don't feel like dealing with return shipping because of costs and 1-2week transit time each way.
This happens with all of my monitors when they get switched off or unplugged. It's just how Windows handles "losing" a monitor. Which version of Windows are you running? On 7 the icons usually end up back in their original spots once the monitor is reattached.
Using regedit browse to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\GraphicsDrivers\Configuration. Locate the key for your monitor. Normally the first few characters will match your vendor. In my case, I use a Philips display, and my key starts out with PHL000116843009. Expand this key and both of the 00 subkeys. Under the first 00 key, document the values for PrimSurfSize.cx, PrimSurfSize.cy, and Stride. Next go to the nested 00 key and document the values for ActiveSize.cx and ActiveSize.cy.
Locate the key starting with SIMULATED_. Modify the values listed above to match. Rebooted your PC.
Dell has been very quiet about their large monitors. As for their QC? Lately it has been pretty bad if you look back at the U3014 problems and their rumored 21:9 monitor simply doesn't exist at this point and other than them saying they are going to make one nothing new from them has been heard or seen. I don't see one from Dell in the near future so the wait could be a long while. Just my opinion though.
AOC launches the u3477Pqu 34-inch UltraWide QHD monitor
http://hexus.net/tech/news/displays/72373-aoc-launches-u3477pqu-34-inch-ultrawide-qhd-monitor/
The model will be available as of September 2014 at an MSRP of 499 GBP incl. VAT.
AOC has managed to significantly improve the Mura uniformity issue; an effect that looks like clouds on dark screens of many monitors.
Almost dead set on buying this . However I've searched the net and looking for an answer . Has anyone hooked up a ps4 to this and what are the results ?
I'm not looking for 21:9 on ps4 but the ability for full screen scaled down to 1080p.. Is this possible or will I have black bars on each side ? Thanks in advance
Sapphire Vapor-X R9 290X 4GB TRI-X OC + Catalyst 14.4 drivers + 34UM95 DP1.2 = graphics glitching, especially on sleep and resume or monitor power cycle
What type of glitches are you seeing? The only "real" glitch I had was the desktop resizing itself (once) and I've gotten a warning about Displayport from my ATI drivers not being able to display the proper resolution/refresh rate, even though its perfectly fine? Normally happens overnight when I leave the computer for the evening.
Is there an option in the drivers to make sure you have DP1.2 enabled?
Not sure if that's in reference to the same IPS glow and backlight bleeding that others are experiencing with the LG, or a separate issue.
It manifests itself as graphical corruption across the screen that looks like colored static, sometimes a few lines wide across the width of the display, and sometimes in much larger rectangular patterns scattered across the panel. The corruption is only there for a split second, but those split second occurrences happen with increasing frequency until the screen is unusuable. FRAPS video does not capture the corruption (unsurprisingly) so I'd have to take external video of the display while it is happening.
If audio is directed over the DP connection to the display, the speakers make nasty popping sounds when the glitching occurs. If audio is directed over some other connection, no audio distortion occurs.
I'll go out on a limb and list a few possibilities:
1) the PS4 understands the display resolution and displays native 3440x1440@30Hz, struggling horribly to maintain any kind of framerate, and breaking many games that expect 16:9 or 1920x1080 in the process.
2) The PS4 displays 1920x1080p@60Hz and you have black bars on all 4 sides (this is what happens when I pass my 34UM95 a 1920x1080p@60Hz signal via CC over DP).
3) A scaler scales the 1920x1080 to fill the screen along the vertical axis and you have black bars on either side (and the usual LCD non-native-res fuzziness)
4) You try really hard to get a scaler to scale the image horizontally and lose a lot of the image off-screen vertically at the top and bottom.
None of those scenarios are particularly appealing.
^ Awesome, is that with DP 1.2?
Let us know how it goes. So far, I'm only counting one person with the DP 1.2 glitching occurring with an nVidia card. Haven't read every page of the thread, though.
dp 1.2 is for 10 bit. for 10bit you need a graphicscard with 10bit support and a program which supports 10bit! everybody who doesnt have nvidia quadro or amd equivalent will have flicker and sound issues. so its not a bug, you just need the hardware for 10bit.
If you choose 1.1 dp option?do you lose performace or less good quality??i speak for games not 10bit programs
This is my dual LG UM95 setup..
Whoa, baller dude! I nominate this as [H] rig of the week.. very nice!
This is my dual LG UM95 setup powered by the new mac pro 6 core 32GB ram D700 gpu. Separate thunderbolt cables. Boots straight up to Windows 8.1, I never use the mac side. Upgraded from a 8 year old monster Dell OptiPlex workstation with triple NEC 2490wuxi. The old fans on the OptiPlex would ramp up to jet turbine speeds and you could cook an egg on the top of those triple NECS. These new monitors are much lighter and cool to the touch after hours of use. The new quiet mac pro is light years faster. I taped LED ribbons on the bottoms of the monitors. The dual stand is an old ergotron. I love these monitors so far. Much sharper than the NEC's. Not as bright, though, which is no big deal. The NEC's had a brightness to them like a CRT monitor. They were always a little to yellow compared to these new LG's which look a little more blue. A lot of the new websites automatically fill your screen and are a pleasure to navigate.
when u turn on dp 1.2 the monitor outputs 10bit. again, if you do not have a nvidia quadro, which costs around 6500 dollars you will have this flickering. just use dp 1.1 you will get the same quality because your graphics card doesnt support 10bit. i have a titan black and this card also doesnt support 10bit. if you have a nvidia quadro you can have 10bit just in programs which support 10bit. so just forget dp 1.2 theres no benefit.
when u turn on dp 1.2 the monitor outputs 10bit. again, if you do not have a nvidia quadro, which costs around 6500 dollars you will have this flickering. just use dp 1.1 you will get the same quality because your graphics card doesnt support 10bit. i have a titan black and this card also doesnt support 10bit. if you have a nvidia quadro you can have 10bit just in programs which support 10bit. so just forget dp 1.2 theres no benefit.