24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

MonarchX said:
Why are top CRT's always aperture grille (AG) ones? What about high-end shadow mask (SM) ones? Can SM CRT's produce very high/infinite contrast ratio like AG's? I recall SM's being sharper, but dimmer than AG's, but AG's suffer from showing 2 thick horizontal lines on white background.
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And what about slot-mask CRT's? How do they compare to SM and AP?
 
Alexnova said:
Hey jb, I was reading an old post of yours and did I read correctly that you were able to get a clear analog signal from an AMD card? And you could see text much more clearly on the Artisan? Wow. I no longer have the build in my sig to try this :(

I have a GTX580 on another computer I'm going to try tonight, maybe that will reducing the signal from ringing.

I will probably try to buy a gold contact VGA to DVI-I cable.

All said and done though I think the eBay seller should be held accountable for their listing. I feel mislead by their claim it was brand new in the box. It says nothing about refurbished and its very clear to me my monitor has seen use (unlike the ad that says unused).

Just very very upset right now.
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You will have file a "not as described" case with eBay, then you would need to return the monitor to the seller to get reimbursed. The process will take some time to be completed. You will be out of the shipping cost back to the customer, and the time eBay will held your $ before the case is closed.

Good luck to you...

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
You will have file a "not as described" case with eBay, then you would need to return the monitor to the seller to get reimbursed. The process will take some time to be completed. You will be out of the shipping cost back to the customer, and the time eBay will held your $ before the case is closed.

Good luck to you...

UV!
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I might as well keep it. $180 shipping both ways you know?

I guess I'll have to figure something out...
 
Klarion said:
And what about slot-mask CRT's? How do they compare to SM and AP?
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If you look closely an aperture grille CRT, you'll see vertical wire grooves held together by two horizontal damper wires. This technology was patented by Sony under the "Trinitron" brand name. When Sony let the patent expire, Mitsubishi made the DiamondTron CRT and ViewSonic made the SonicTron CRT, which are copycats of the Trinitron based on the same technology.

These aperture grille grooves are held closer together and the distance between these grooves can be as close as .22mm, which makes the image crispier and clearer. Once, Sony made a CRT with an .19mm aperture grille but it was never put out in a production line.

The shadow masks CRT are like little tiny holes that separate the colored phosphors in the layer behind the front glass of the screen, and I never seen any shadow mask CRT with these holes closer than .28mm.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and image preference is always a choice of the user. Some users love the Trintron CRTs and don't mind the two damper wires, whereas some users love the shadow mask CRTs because the damper wires are an annoyance for them.

Hoe this helps...

UV!
 
Alexnova said:
I might as well keep it. $180 shipping both ways you know?

I guess I'll have to figure something out...
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If you complain vigorously to eBay and the seller, they may issue you a prepaid label for you to return it. Some sellers will do that for unsatisfied clients, especially if they are facing a potential negative feedback.

If you paid with a credit card, call them and inquire a possible charge back. Some credit cards will allow you to keep the unit and still reimburse you the charge.

Try these approaches...

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
If you look closely an aperture grille CRT, you'll see vertical wire grooves held together by two horizontal damper wires. This technology was patented by Sony under the "Trinitron" brand name. When Sony let the patent expire, Mitsubishi made the DiamondTron CRT and ViewSonic made the SonicTron CRT, which are copycats of the Trinitron based on the same technology.

These aperture grille grooves are held closer together and the distance between these grooves can be as close as .22mm, which makes the image crispier and clearer. Once, Sony made a CRT with an .19mm aperture grille but it was never put out in a production line.

The shadow masks CRT are like little tiny holes that separate the colored phosphors in the layer behind the front glass of the screen, and I never seen any shadow mask CRT with these holes closer than .28mm.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and image preference is always a choice of the user. Some users love the Trintron CRTs and don't mind the two damper wires, whereas some users love the shadow mask CRTs because the damper wires are an annoyance for them.

Hoe this helps...

UV!
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Read my question again. Slot mask is different than shadow mask and apperture grille.
 
Klarion said:
Read my question again. Slot mask is different than shadow mask and apperture grille.
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I wanted to give the readers a more general understanding of the two leading technologies. Once they grasp that, then they will get a better understanding of copycats and similar technologies...

Now... so you know.... Slot mask is a combination type of shadow mask and aperture grille technologies, in which the slotted shadow mask array is a series of elliptical holes and vertical phosphor stripes without the use of the damper wires.

Hope this helps...

UV!
 
Thanks Vito, I am not ready to take those steps yet. I don't want to moralize over this but I feel it would be wrong to keep the monitor and get my money back for the fact I'm sure they are unaware the units they are selling are B stock. They must have discovered a cache of these when some business liquidated and since they saw they were sealed assumed they were brand new unused.

I'll contact the seller and try to work something out. If it comes down to them needing the monitor returned, I would only do so if they foot the shipping cost. If that doesn't work I'll look into chargeback options.
 
Question for anybody here that plays twitch shooters like Counter Strike on their Trinitron monitors.

So of course I can push the refresh rate on my GDM really high on lower resolutions as long as I select interlacing.

But does it really make s difference on a CRT if the input lag is already close to 0ms? It's already smooth at 85hz, and I don't want to sacrifice a lower resolution.

But I would bump it up if I'm getting s slight advantage over my opponent. Doesn't hurt to try I guess except put more wear on the tube.

Anywho so back to this refurb GDM5402 unit. Spent a few hours on it...and it strangely gets sharper over use. Of course the blacks get really dark, but I was surprised by the sharpness. And no the ghosting is still there, but my new cable comes in on Friday. Maybe my eyes were just adjusting. Sure the whites aren't a bright white, I am using the 6500k color profile but turning up the brightness makes those whites have a gray film over it. I have the brightness down to 25.

The picture is pretty decent but the end game here is a FW-900 or Artisan.

And I can't begin to tell you how happy I am back to CRT over spending money on a Lightboost LCD.

I wish there was a niche market for CRT and they were still in production.
 
Hey Vito, I know you have advised others on a UPS of some sort. What about a line conditioner?

I hope this isn't overkill:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000...+regulator&dpPl=1&dpID=41pjo-Ze8cL&ref=plSrch

Then get a UPS to go with it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019804U8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=17H7GX0GY89FAQKJG5VJ

What do you think?

My central air in my apartment does this strange power cycling when it turns on and I don't want that to send a surge through the outlet into the monitor.

I have one of those power surge protector bars, but that's about it.

I am pretty clueless on consumer electricity and how that should be regulated, but it seems something you are familiar with.
 
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Alexnova said:
Question for anybody here that plays twitch shooters like Counter Strike on their Trinitron monitors.

So of course I can push the refresh rate on my GDM really high on lower resolutions as long as I select interlacing.

But does it really make s difference on a CRT if the input lag is already close to 0ms? It's already smooth at 85hz, and I don't want to sacrifice a lower resolution.

But I would bump it up if I'm getting s slight advantage over my opponent. Doesn't hurt to try I guess except put more wear on the tube.

Anywho so back to this refurb GDM5402 unit. Spent a few hours on it...and it strangely gets sharper over use. Of course the blacks get really dark, but I was surprised by the sharpness. And no the ghosting is still there, but my new cable comes in on Friday. Maybe my eyes were just adjusting. Sure the whites aren't a bright white, I am using the 6500k color profile but turning up the brightness makes those whites have a gray film over it. I have the brightness down to 25.

The picture is pretty decent but the end game here is a FW-900 or Artisan.

And I can't begin to tell you how happy I am back to CRT over spending money on a Lightboost LCD.

I wish there was a niche market for CRT and they were still in production.
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For the added refresh rate, your choice. I would be worried that running the monitor at higher refresh rates may wear out the vertical deflection circuitry though. Regarding the monitor getting sharper and blacker over time - yep - typical aperture grille warm-up. All of my monitors gain a little bit of focus over the warm-up period, and the blacks settle into a nice, inky state. Like I told you in the PM's, I don't think all is lost with that monitor. I would need to check the service manual though and see what all needs to be disassembled to straighten it out.

If it's anything like the CR1 monitors (is this even a CR1? I would need to look...) then it has tiny edge connectors that connect the video input board to the main board of the monitor. All it may need is a good contact cleaning, and re-seating.
 
Alexnova said:
Hey Vito, I know you have advised others on a UPS of some sort. What about a line conditioner?

I hope this isn't overkill:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000...+regulator&dpPl=1&dpID=41pjo-Ze8cL&ref=plSrch

Then get a UPS to go with it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019804U8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=17H7GX0GY89FAQKJG5VJ

What do you think?

My central air in my apartment does this strange power cycling when it turns on and I don't want that to send a surge through the outlet into the monitor.

I have one of those power surge protector bars, but that's about it.

I am pretty clueless on consumer electricity and how that should be regulated, but it seems something you are familiar with.
Click to expand...


I have advised all my clients to protect their units by hooking it to a voltage regulated UPS, but I never have recommended any specific brands to my customers. it is for liability purposes.

Hope this helps...

UV!
 
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I'm trying to do a WPB and am having a hard time setting the value for the green gun blanking and the cutoff max value.

After I set the green gun blanking for the highest it goes without blacks having a green glow, the screen has a noticably higher glow. Then the next step is to set it so the black screen glows at 8 lux with balanced colors correct? Because that makes it glow even higher.

I'm pretty confused by this and really want to get this balanced.
 
Yes I have been. I set it to a pure black screen to run the G2 adjustment to where I don't see glow (I don't have perfect viewing conditions because there is a streetlight right outside my apartment window, but I covered it up as much as I could). I then go next and adjust the green blanking to the highest value that I don't see any glow with that same pure black screen.

I then keep it on the pure black screen and adjust the RGB values for the max cutoff until they are balanced and the black screen has a 8lut glow for the Y value as specified..

I'm not sure what I am supposed to do after as this 8lut glow doesn't go away in the later steps.
 
Just continue with the instructions. Don't worry about how the screen looks during the process. Just be sure to load up the right test patterns, and hit your targets, and you should be good.

Out of curiosity, do you remember what values you needed to set the slider to in the G2 adjustment steps to achieve the least amount of glow?
 
spacediver said:
Just continue with the instructions. Don't worry about how the screen looks during the process. Just be sure to load up the right test patterns, and hit your targets, and you should be good.

Out of curiosity, do you remember what values you needed to set the slider to in the G2 adjustment steps to achieve the least amount of glow?
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I guarantee its probably lower than this in reality, but because of my room not being absolutely pitch dark I got it to 130 which was right where it was.

The green part is the part I don't fully understand. So it starts at 80 but you move it up until you see a barely visible green tint?
 
Also it won't let me set the drive at 115lut. It caps it at around 70. When there is something white on the screen the screen dims and when I have something dark it brightens. You can see this by taking a fully black screen then putting a white screen on it.

Is this normal?

Also the OSD is full brightness but everything else isnt.
 
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lilbthebasedgod said:
I guarantee its probably lower than this in reality, but because of my room not being absolutely pitch dark I got it to 130 which was right where it was.

The green part is the part I don't fully understand. So it starts at 80 but you move it up until you see a barely visible green tint?
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Use the same instructions for the green part as the previous part. Start at a level where there's a slight glow, and adjust down until it doesn't get darker.
 
lilbthebasedgod said:
Also it won't let me set the drive at 115lut. It caps it at around 70. When there is something white on the screen the screen dims and when I have something dark it brightens. You can see this by taking a fully black screen then putting a white screen on it.

Is this normal?

Also the OSD is full brightness but everything else isnt.
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First off, it's cd/m^2, or nits, not lut or lux :p

You shouldn't be able to access the OSD while doing a WinDAS WPB procedure...how are you able to?

And no, I don't think your reported behaviour is normal.
 
oh they mean the same thing!

I accidentally uplugged my laptop cable. When I was moving it away for viewing. So I just restarted from there and that's how I got the OSD. I probably exited procedure.

And I reloaded the .dat file and it worked. I think it was because of the partially finished balance.
 
Great news guys, I just got my VGA to DVI-I cable in and it cleared up my ghosting issue!!:D

Yay no reseating of the A-board is required!

Seriously after playing Battlefield 4 on this thing at Ultra settings, how in the world can anyone purchase an LCD monitor?? Black levels are insane, colors are just glorious, details are crisp.

Long live the CRT.
 
Alexnova said:
Great news guys, I just got my VGA to DVI-I cable in and it cleared up my ghosting issue!!:D

Yay no reseating of the A-board is required!

Seriously after playing Battlefield 4 on this thing at Ultra settings, how in the world can anyone purchase an LCD monitor?? Black levels are insane, colors are just glorious, details are crisp.

Long live the CRT.
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Oh thank goodness! I'm glad it worked out for you. And your response pretty much sums it up. Long live CRT, bring on OLED.
 
Alexnova said:
Great news guys, I just got my VGA to DVI-I cable in and it cleared up my ghosting issue!!:D

Yay no reseating of the A-board is required!

Seriously after playing Battlefield 4 on this thing at Ultra settings, how in the world can anyone purchase an LCD monitor?? Black levels are insane, colors are just glorious, details are crisp.

Long live the CRT.
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I am glad it all worked out for you! Please post the brand and the supplier of the cable, and perhaps a photo of it...

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
I am glad it all worked out for you! Please post the brand and the supplier of the cable, and perhaps a photo of it...

UV!
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OK here is the link of the cable I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZJ2KPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

It's the 10 ft one.

In order for this to work your graphic card has to support DVI-I Dual Link as you can see based on the pins. As I have said before, my graphics card is the GTX980Ti

The packaging itself is on amazon.

If you need a picture of the cable itself, let me know and I can upload it.

If you don't have a DVI-I Dual Link supported card, you might be able to try out a different option.
 
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spacediver said:
right on, now just wait until you WinDAS that mofo :)
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Haha yeah, I just need to get my old PC working properly again. For whatever reason none of my USB ports are working with a mouse plugged in. Might be due to the fact I overclocked 2 USB ports in order to get a polling rate of 500hz.

I'll follow your guide and I need to get my hands on a DTP-94.
 
I ran the program and got it pretty much perfect except for a slight glow after running dispcal and dispwin. I am not sure if its the correct brightness as 75 cd/m^2 seems lower than I was expecting (especially when the monitor before was running at 140 cd/m^2. That is how bright its supposed to be right?

But it all measures well and the picture looks great.
 
lilbthebasedgod said:
I ran the program and got it pretty much perfect except for a slight glow after running dispcal and dispwin. I am not sure if its the correct brightness as 75 cd/m^2 seems lower than I was expecting (especially when the monitor before was running at 140 cd/m^2. That is how bright its supposed to be right?

But it all measures well and the picture looks great.
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out of interrest, this 75cd/m2 you are getting are with what brightness/contrast settings in OSD?

And not, you are not supposed to use it at 75cd/m2 but as bright as you like.
 
XoR said:
out of interrest, this 75cd/m2 you are getting are with what brightness/contrast settings in OSD?

And not, you are not supposed to use it at 75cd/m2 but as bright as you like.
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FYI - after you calibrate the monitor in WinDAS, the maximum brightness you will get from the monitor at 6500K is 105 cd/m2 and for 9300K is 115 cd/m2. I think it defaults to 95 cdm/2 after you are done for 6500K.
 
Yea run it on 6500K - brightness and contrast I think default to 31/90, and my peak luminance is around 87 cd/m^2 in 6500K mode.
 
Hey guys, so is the consensus amongst owners of the FW-900 to use a BNC to DVI cable for superior image?

Or is that used in order so the graphics card doesn't try to scale the resolution up or function like a LCD?

Just wondering what's the optimal cable here.

I have bought Blue Jeans cables in the past which were superb, but I was wondering if anyone could help me in the kind of cable I would need to buy from them. The description on their site isn't that clear.
 
Since I should have a FW-900 in the near future, I think I'm going to pick up where Roberta left off with the table of contents. In fact I plan on going through each page of this thread pulling out anything useful and indexing it based on the content (monitor adjustment, color, parts, etc).

Unkle Vito - If you are reading this, how comfortable are you if I compile all of your posts and organize them according to topic? Your much appreciated knowledge and expertise on these monitors has been a real treat to read and contains invaluable information on calibration, history, parts, etc. The end game would be to create a website for the FW-900 and other CRT monitors that would allow the end user easy navigation for what they are interested in reading. If you do not want your posts here replicated elsewhere (and I promise I am not looking to make any money off of them) that is A-OK. I completely respect that.

This project is more of a resource to myself so I can easily find something I need, but of course I want to share it with all other enthusiasts.

To anyone that still has their FW-900 original box, can anyone take a hi-res photo of the actual stock image on it? I'm referring to this: http://i.imgur.com/U4cQ7kv.jpg?2

I'd like the photo not to be at an angle but directly in front. I plan on using this as a stock graphic for my project. Thanks.
 
@Alexnova
I wonder: why use dual-card if you worry about input lag?
and since you have Radeon, are you going to use EDID color correction?
 
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