jbltecnicspro
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2006
- Messages
- 9,545
Good call, I may actually do that.
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Is there any risk to using a degaussing coil, so long as monitor is off?
I believe that's what the service manual is saying, that the risk to the unit comes when degaussing is done with it being on. Can't say for certain right now because I don't have it handy. But yes, so long as you degauss the screen while the unit is OFF - you should be fine.
It is not recommended by Sony, but we have done trials on some units with some success. Do it at your own risk...
UV!
We were always instructed to stay away from this procedure... Like I said, we have done some trials with some success, but if someone is going to try it out, it is at their own risk.
UV!
Is this one of those things where you kind of do it as a last-ditch effort? Nothing else is working, so we may as well trying and hand degauss the unit?
Hard to say. Related question. Assuming equal pixel clock, would having a lower resolution with a higher refresh be worse, better, or the same as a higher resolution with a lower refresh?
I guess this is equivalent to asking which is more liable to be stressed due to high signal frequency: deflection circuitry or video amplifier circuitry.
Hi unklevito, I see you quited on shipping entirely, bad experiences I presume.
Too bad, how expensive are the calibration tools ?
does pushing the times significantly affect how long the monitor lasts?
YES!!!!
I do not recommend any "forced" resolutions and timings other than the VESA recommended for the unit.
UV!
do you know how it scales? for example would 800x600@170hz cause some part to wear out twice as fast as 800x600@85hz would?
Forcing the unit to sync non-recommended resolutions and timings forces the guns and wears the cathode (by "poisoning" - oxide build up contamination -) faster.
UV!
I just got an FW900 locally. I am having a few issues and I need your advice.
In the first place, it is clear that this monitor has the "brightness" issue where things appear washed out and blacks are gray even with brightness at 0. So I am assuming I have to lower the G2 voltage. Do I have to use WinDAS for that or is there another way?
I heard that you can simply adjust a "screw" on the flyback which will lower the G2 and restore proper blacks. I don't know how to do this or if this is even safe to do.
Also I wanted to first try the Image Restoration feature, but it doesn't work. Every time I go to perform the image restoration, it starts for about a minute or less and then the whole monitor goes to standby. I just have to turn the monitor back on and nothing has changed.
What is going on here? I have ordered a USB to TTL cable for doing a proper WINDAS calibration but I'd really like to get the blacks looking right as soon as possible. Is there anything that can be done? And why can't I get the Image Restoration to work?
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
I appreciate your advice but unfortunately there are stubborn people including myself who will force resolutions/rates regardless. the reason is that we use CRTs for gaming, and forcing the refresh rate to, for instance 150hz, results in much better motion quality than the recommended 85hz.
I appreciate your advice but unfortunately there are stubborn people including myself who will force resolutions/rates regardless. the reason is that we use CRTs for gaming, and forcing the refresh rate to, for instance 150hz, results in much better motion quality than the recommended 85hz.
now what we'd like to know is how the rate of wear scales with the resolution and refresh rate. this would help us determine a safe compromise between pushing the rates and wearing out the monitor excessively. for example, perhaps at 110khz horizontal scan, the rate of wear increases by 50%, but at 120khz the rate of wear quadruples. with this knowledge, we'd use refresh rates that keep the horizontal scan rate below 110khz in order to experience good motion quality without excessively wearing out the monitor.
you should do the full white point balance procedure. see spacediver's guide: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1830788. you'll need to purchase a dtp94 (~30$ on ebay) or some other colorimeter
I didn't see any g2 screw on the flyback of my fw900.
also if you haven't already, make sure to look at the monitor in a dark room to make sure what you're seeing isn't just ambient light reflecting off the phosphors.
until you get your cable and perform the calibration in windas, you can try decreasing the brightness in the OSD... though it's possible that your black will still look bad even with brightness at 0.
The colors of most display monitors tend to gradually lose brilliance over several years of service. The IMAGE RESTORATION feature found in the EASY and sRGB menus allows you to restore the color to the original factory quality levels.
i think that my cpd-g520p has the coating built in. i'll take it apart and look.The AG coating on the F520 tubes is built into the glass. Not all the 15X and 16X tubes have AG coating built into the glass. Some have the AG film on it and the best way to find out is to open the case and look for a small round sticker on the tube that reads "F" which means film.
Hope this helps...
UV!