24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

nice!
what's wrong with the one not in working condition?

Bought it off this guy, mainly for the bezel which was in great condition. Also apparently has two working fly back transformers in it (see here).

i'd be interested to see whether the fw900's film has an antireflective (like the interference type) coating on it. judging from the untinted reflection of the light from that picture, it looks like it doesn't, but it could just be overexposure.

Lemme know if there are any experiments you'd like me to do to check.
 
so my g520p actually does have a film. not sure if it's removable but for sure I'm not ever going to try to remove it even if i end up scratching it across the center.

spacediver, try what i did here:
reflectance of g520p with antiglare coating vs. gw900 without antiglare coating: (taken on iphone 5 with exposure locked)
fw900: http://i.imgur.com/26TIzI7.jpg
g520p: http://i.imgur.com/X5sg8dr.jpg

and if yours behaves similar to my g520p, you should notice that fingerprints are much more obvious on the screen.


btw could you check to see how much variation there is between your dtp94's? i know there was a test on luminous landscape but it would be nice to confirm it
 
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will try to get that done soon. Is the key difference the reduced reflectance in the g520p? I also see a color shift towards blue in that screen - is the suggestion that this color shift is real and not an artifact of saturated sensors in the fw900 pic?
 
if you see a color shift in its reflections (not the images displayed by the screen), that means that the film has an AR coating and that the sensor was oversaturated/overexposed in that area.
 
so my g520p actually does have a film. not sure if it's removable but for sure I'm not ever going to try to remove it even if i end up scratching it across the center.

spacediver, try what i did here:


and if yours behaves similar to my g520p, you should notice that fingerprints are much more obvious on the screen.


btw could you check to see how much variation there is between your dtp94's? i know there was a test on luminous landscape but it would be nice to confirm it

As far as I know. the 520 series monitors have the anti-glare baked into the screen when they're building the tube. It's not at all like the FW900 and the other "first gens" as SH1 called them, where the antiglare is glued on at the factory. The difference here is that unless you destroy your tube, you ain't removing the antiglare from the 520's.
 
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The TTL cable I ordered is coming tomorrow and I plan on doing a full calibration to see how good this monitor really is. Like I said, it's definitely got the brightness problem. Even with Brightness at 0, everything is washed out and blacks are gray. There are slight geometry problems and some fuzziness. Hopefully I can straighten everything out.

Does anyone have a guide for doing a calibration that is complete? I'll probably find most of the information somewhere in this thread, but I was hoping for a consolidated source.

I've already seen this link:

http://www.piclist.com/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/index.htm

I have experience calibrating. I have an Eye One Pro spectrophotometer and I've calibrated a couple plasmas and some lcd monitors. But I've never calibrated a CRT before. I don't know the first thing about fixing geometry issues, convergence, and dealing with focus controls and things like that.

Also, where exactly am I supposed to plug in the TTL cable into the monitor? I haven't taken off the casing at all. Do I have to do that to get to the port I need?

Thanks.
 
I have an Eye One Pro spectrophotometer

The i1 pro can't read as low as the DTP-94, and isn't as accurate as the DTP-94 at low luminances. It will be fine for WinDAS, but for the Argyll step afterwards it won't be as effective.

So one solution is to not lower the G2 (black level) as deep - that way you won't need an Argyll adjustment.
 
The i1 pro can't read as low as the DTP-94, and isn't as accurate as the DTP-94 at low luminances. It will be fine for WinDAS, but for the Argyll step afterwards it won't be as effective.

So one solution is to not lower the G2 (black level) as deep - that way you won't need an Argyll adjustment.

The DTP-94 was one of the best pods ever made for color calibration of CRTs. Based on my experience, and again my personal preference, between the DTP-94 and the Sencore CP5000, I would pick the Sencore CP5000 over the DTP-94. It is as good as the DPT-94 but this one includes the calibration program which is second to none.

Above all, I will stick with our OTC 1000 and the Minoltas Spectroradiometers we have in the lab.

UV!
 
If you ever want me to babysit any of your minolta spectroradiometers, just let me know. I charge very little for such a service, and I'll even cover the shipping ;)
 
Looks like the R9-285 has a RAMDAC and DVI-I output so there's still hope for us FW900 owners. Hopefully this means the next-gen replacement for the 290x will have a RAMDAC as well.
 
I've been attempting to calibrate the FW900 I just acquired, but I can't seem to find all the information I need on how to do it. I saw the White Balance guide that was written on this forum and I (mostly) understand it, but what about Geometry and Convergence? I would very much like to dial in the Geometry just right but when I started to go through the process in WinDAS, I got confused and overwhelmed quickly. I really have no idea what I am doing. Are there any resources that you can point me to?

Is there a comprehensive guide written anywhere about how to calibrate a CRT with WinDAS? I am really inexperienced with regards to CRTs so I need all the help I can get.
 
IIs there a comprehensive guide written anywhere about how to calibrate a CRT with WinDAS? I am really inexperienced with regards to CRTs so I need all the help I can get.
The only ones I've seen are Sony adjustment and calibration procedures, clearly they're written for people who can understand them. Any average joe would be completely lost by the second page of directions. It also requires proper test equipment and other hardware.

Bottom line is. there's a very good chance of winding up with a zorched monitor if you start guessing in WinDAS. If I were you I'd find an actual CRT tech (TV repair shops that have been around for many years are often good sources) for these adjustments.
 
both flod and jbl have developed some good techniques for geometry and convergence adjustments using WinDAS. Hopefully a guide will be released soon :)
 
The only ones I've seen are Sony adjustment and calibration procedures, clearly they're written for people who can understand them. Any average joe would be completely lost by the second page of directions. It also requires proper test equipment and other hardware.

Bottom line is. there's a very good chance of winding up with a zorched monitor if you start guessing in WinDAS. If I were you I'd find an actual CRT tech (TV repair shops that have been around for many years are often good sources) for these adjustments.

Luckily I've backed up the EEPROM so I can restore it if anything goes wrong.

I'd be happy to bring it to someone to make those adjustments but the weight of these things makes the prospect rather daunting.

I'm pretty good at following directions but I just don't really know the first thing about geometry adjustments. Hopefully this guide that is supposedly in the works will be release soon enough.

Just so I'm clear, a complete calibration of an FW900 involves: Convergence, Geometry, and White Balance? Also I can adjust the Focus pots inside the case.

That is it right? Is there anything else a professional would do?
 
I've been attempting to calibrate the FW900 I just acquired, but I can't seem to find all the information I need on how to do it. I saw the White Balance guide that was written on this forum and I (mostly) understand it, but what about Geometry and Convergence? I would very much like to dial in the Geometry just right but when I started to go through the process in WinDAS, I got confused and overwhelmed quickly. I really have no idea what I am doing. Are there any resources that you can point me to?

Is there a comprehensive guide written anywhere about how to calibrate a CRT with WinDAS? I am really inexperienced with regards to CRTs so I need all the help I can get.

Your best bet is to go into the Touch-Up menu in WinDAS and avoid the Procedures unless you really know what you're doing. Touch-Up provides enough correction options to be useful for you. :)
 
I just bought a supposedly unused FW900. Cosmetically, it looks the part, but is there any way to verify this (check tube hours)?
 
Looks like the R9-285 has a RAMDAC and DVI-I output so there's still hope for us FW900 owners. Hopefully this means the next-gen replacement for the 290x will have a RAMDAC as well.

that is good news indeed. And it's also good to know that HDfury will probably have some good solutions too :)
 
I just bought a supposedly unused FW900. Cosmetically, it looks the part, but is there any way to verify this (check tube hours)?

If you had a Sencore CR-7000 or CR-700 I believe there are ways to infer the emission of the electron guns.

The only other way, as far as I know, is to do a WPB procedure and see how far you have to move the slider to meet the luminance target on one of the steps, although this is more of a rough estimate. (if you end up doing a WPB procedure, let us know and we can give you more details).

If we may ask, how did you come across the unused FW900? And what did you pay for it? Either way, congrats :)
 
Anyone know how I can set higher refresh rates on this monitor? I'd like to get to 100hz at 1920x1200. I haven't even installed any drivers for this monitor (are there drivers for Windows 8?).

Are there any inf files I need? Do you have any other tips to getting the best out of these monitors?

Thanks again.
 
this is a modified driver with higher refresh rates and works with x64 windows versions
modded driver

just in case here is a guide for installing the driver (same under windows 8 but you need to deactivate driver verification)
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1037294301#post1037294301

you can also try the custom resolution utility (aka cru.exe) http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU?page=1
and you need a tool to remove the pixel clock limit from nvidia/amd (linked in the OP of the above link)
 
Anyone know how I can set higher refresh rates on this monitor? I'd like to get to 100hz at 1920x1200.

I've heard reports of ppl pushing the refresh up to 96 hz at this resolution I think but I'm not sure if they're legit. I would also strongly recommend against it. 85 hz is the highest refresh you should run the tube at for 1920x1200.
 
i think i got 95/96hz with nvidia's custom resolutions

but 85 vs 95 really isn't a big deal to my eyes.
 
I got polarizers. They seem to have exactly the same light transmittance which is good for testing.

Results are just as expected: circular polarizer placed in a way that linearly polarized light coming from monitor blow competition out of the water. Glare reduction is just fantastic both from external light sources and illuminated by monitor itself (seeing my reflection or more exactly not seeing it anymore). Flaring/haloing reduction is also visually slightly better with circular polarizer compared to linear one, though here configuration of how I place polarizer doesn't matter that much. Left and right version work the same.

Brightness reduction is quite big, its much darker than original AG. Will test it with spyder3 tomorrow and post some numbers. Its much darker but imho sufficient, especially that it still looks better even with moderately lit room than without any AG cause normally its glare-fest and black is non-existent. Here black is black and haloing and inner glass reflections seems greatly reduced.

I tested original AG if its polarizer after I peeled it off and it was ordinary dark sheet of plastic that reflected light. Sure it helped somehow with light conditioning but compared to magic of circular polarizer it was just crap. With polarizer I have inky blacks like on Samsung Galaxy AMOLED.

I can have lights on in the room and black behind polarizer is much better than on LCD dimmed down to the same level of brightness. Its just ridiculous... :eek:

So now I have no choice but to buy large circular polarizer sheet. After what I saw today it is impossible that I will use FW900 without that polarizer on it :rolleyes:

fSE2ZlL.jpg


This image is kinda bad cause in reality there is no such haloing and its all coming from my crappy phone camera. Its only to show that black are black and there is no glare despite having full lights on.

Now I have to buy large circular polarizer sheet and somehow place it on tube. I am not sure how to do that, what solvent to use. If anyone have any suggestions please feel free to contribute :)

Cool idea. Did this work out?
 
Can someone give me a working WinDAS with GDM-F520 files and etc?
I got win XP and it gives me this error: "Astro SG Communication Error" and so on.
 
I just have a very quick question for you all. Would you recommend that I remove the anti glare coating? What are the advantages and disadvantages?

Thanks.
 
I just have a very quick question for you all. Would you recommend that I remove the anti glare coating? What are the advantages and disadvantages?

Thanks.

Is it damaged in a very noticeable way? If no, then definitely not.

(The screen cannot produce a black level lower than the black level of the screen raised by external reflections, even with the monitor off. Without that sheet, imperfect though it is, these reflections will be significantly more.)
 
If you had a Sencore CR-7000 or CR-700 I believe there are ways to infer the emission of the electron guns.

The only other way, as far as I know, is to do a WPB procedure and see how far you have to move the slider to meet the luminance target on one of the steps, although this is more of a rough estimate. (if you end up doing a WPB procedure, let us know and we can give you more details).

If we may ask, how did you come across the unused FW900? And what did you pay for it? Either way, congrats :)

I was hoping for something like on CRT projectors and professional displays where it will simply tell you how many hours are on the tubes.

I don't have a colorimeter, but I might be willing to invest in one. Would the same one also work for other types of displays (plasma)?

I found the FW900 on ebay a few weeks ago, $350+$120 shipping.
 
that's a very good price if it's even close to unused.

a DTP-94 will work on other displays, but its accuracy will suffer on displays whose spectral signatures vary from the CRTs its calibrated for. One way around this is to also invest in a spectroradiometer like the i1 pro (rev d if you choose an i1 pro). That way you can profile the colorimeter to the spectro for any display.

If you're going to invest in a nice colorimeter, go with the i1 display pro.
 
I was hoping for something like on CRT projectors and professional displays where it will simply tell you how many hours are on the tubes.

I don't have a colorimeter, but I might be willing to invest in one. Would the same one also work for other types of displays (plasma)?

I found the FW900 on ebay a few weeks ago, $350+$120 shipping.

You'll get what you pay for... It is always the case...

UV!
 
Anyone know how I can set higher refresh rates on this monitor? I'd like to get to 100hz at 1920x1200. I haven't even installed any drivers for this monitor (are there drivers for Windows 8?).

Are there any inf files I need? Do you have any other tips to getting the best out of these monitors?

Thanks again.

use this program from toastyx, it works works CRT too.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

You can manually set any resolution, and you can select the program fills in the specs for your resolution.

You can also see if your custom resolution would be out of sync, or not.

I installed 1400x900@120hz with this program on the gdm-fw900 for old games and shooters.

As Always, setting a resolutuon close to twhat the monitor can do might reduce its lifespan. Hence why i never used the 2340x1440@75 hz.

I think the monitor can take close to 100hz at 1920x1200, but 96 hz can be done easily. Proceed at your own risk.
 
iirc, at 1920x1200, 96 is the maximum allowed by the hsync limit. i guess you could play with the timings and front/back porches a little but IMO it's no big deal
 
iirc, at 1920x1200, 96 is the maximum allowed by the hsync limit. i guess you could play with the timings and front/back porches a little but IMO it's no big deal

maybe he wants it for video watching purposes.

I recommend making 1920x1080@96hz then with CRU, it will not stress your monitor as much.

I once again STRONGLY advise against using 1920x1200@96hz as it might damage your tube or wear it out fast.
 
not trying to be contentious, but do you have anything to support that or are you just speculating? i'm not sure but i don't think anyone has actually tested how a crt's wear scales with increasing the rates.

well anyway here are my speculations:
the fw900 has a max horizontal scan rate of 121hz which is what limits 1920x1200 to 96hz. but given that the image is completely fine at the limit, i believe that limit is imposed by some controller in the monitor and not some limitation of the hardware. perhaps the monitor's wear does increase significantly after a certain point, but then sony would probably choose the monitor's max horizontal scan to be a few khz lower than that point. so probably it's fine to go right up to the limit; in the sense that if you're comfortable using 1920x1200 @ 93hz, you shouldn't be afraid of using 1920x1200 @ 96hz.

what i mean is like driving a car that is capable of reaching 160mph, but electronically limited to 140mph. now obviously driving it faster increases wear, but if you're okay with the wear at 135mph, you might as well just floor it and drive at 140mph.
 
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