24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Just got a LaCie Electron 22 Blue II monitor from a friend - for free! It came with the colorimeter and the calibration software for it (ala Artisan). Interestingly enough, the system requires a pigtail cable setup just like the Artisan, but I don't have one. Sigh... Need to find out what tube this uses. It was made in 2000. So far the verdict is that it looks like any other AG tube. Colors are off though, so I need to do a white balance adjustment. Though again, I need to find the service mode for this guy.
 
wow, i've heard those tubes are fantastic.

As for service mode, does this help?

Perfect. This is exactly what I need. White balance is awful right now, too red and green and not enough blue. OSD-level controls only give you the gains on each gun and no bias. Just so that I remember correctly - gain is usually set at 100 white and bias usually 30 white right (dark gray in this case)? It's been a long weekend and evening. The monitor looks fantastic. Geometry isn't perfect (nor is any other flat tube I've ever seen - further confirming my theory that round tubes have the best geometry).

Really, for free I could have done a ton worse.
 
So for the heck of it, I decided to try some high-fps gaming. Unreal 2004 at 1024x768 at 150hz was unbelievable. Next up was Skyrim, and... it doesn't take high-FPS gaming all that well. I'm not sure what was wrong, but the game's tick-rate really got jacked some how. Things all around were glitching up (dead horses falling out of the sky, flashing water textures, odd behavior in everything - I wish I took a video). Next, I decided to push it for 800x600 at 170hz. This is the absolute max that the CRT will display. Skyrim... crashed. :)

that is a common problem in skyrim. It can't handle forced high fps, weird stuff indeed appears and it crashes.
 
getting some weird behavior with windas convergence on my g520p

this is for the procedure convergence adjustment, not DCnv.

first of all my convergence is decent before adjusting anything. I've taken pictures of the relevant parameters in the dat file, so that during the procedure I have the original values for reference.

anyway... basically if I set each slider to the value that I had saved in my dat file, the convergence is messed up in the corners, but when I finish the procedure and click the last "ok" it pops back to being normal again....??????
 
If the dat file is in effect though, wouldn't the sliders already be in those positions? Or do they default to a specific starting point (e.g. half way across)?
 
the first time it wasn't in the dat file's positions. the second time it was :confused:

in any event, if i don't touch anything during the procedure, basically the convergence is bad at the corners during the latter steps in the procedure but back to normal after i click the last ok.

i think i'll just perfect the convergence with dcnv since it's essentially perfect at the center anyway.

yay my g520p has only 45 dynamic convergence areas :D time to go through all of them
 
the first time it wasn't in the dat file's positions. the second time it was :confused:

in any event, if i don't touch anything during the procedure, basically the convergence is bad at the corners during the latter steps in the procedure but back to normal after i click the last ok.

i think i'll just perfect the convergence with dcnv since it's essentially perfect at the center anyway.

yay my g520p has only 45 dynamic convergence areas :D time to go through all of them

Don't do Dynamic Convergence. Do the Convergence Touch-up instead.
 
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WinCATs is more for color & WPB accuracy. WinDAS does more of the monitor's parameters (landing, focusing, geometry, convergence, brightens, G2, contrasts... etc.)

UV!

could UV or someone elaborate on this?
I can't find anything about wincats on google, though I think I read somewhere it's like a command line windas...

never mind found this:
If you have the proper instrumentation and know what you are doing, WinDAS adjusts white balance properly.

WinCATs adjust both white balance and colors, and for that you will need an spectroradiometer. We have a Minolta CA-100 and the CA-210 for that. WinDAS and WinCATs, when they are acquired from Sony (legit licenses), both require dongles and registration to be activated. Otherwise, they will not work.

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

what does it mean that wincats adjusts the colors? does it also adjust the primaries (by, for instance, making green also include a little of the blue and red phosphors)?

edit2:
nevermind found answers again in the next few posts after that one
 
From what I could tell, WinCATS does an automated WPB - the software directly reads from the probe and makes iterative adjustments until the targets are met. I don't believe it offers any more functionality than WinDAS.
 
if you're able to, try these parameters:

2cibuxg.jpg
Concluded the Intel Graphics Driver explicitly defines 800*600 as lowest allowable resolution. Confirmed by removing pin 12.

Contacted Intel, awaiting response!
 
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Concluded the Intel Graphics Driver explicitly defines 800*600 as lowest allowable resolution. Confirmed by removing pin 12.

Contacted Intel, awaiting response!

interesting, thanks for the research :)

so removing pin 12 allowed u to get 640x480?
 
Hey guys, I'm having a couple issues with my fw900, any help would be greatly appreciated.
It currently looks like this-
L8nRjtv.jpg


I set it to show a red screen so the issue is most obvious. The purple at the bottom is very obvious, but there's also a very slight green along the right hand side. It basically seems to be the same as when you set the landing way off, except it's in the middle of the edges rather than on the corners. Are there any windas settings for this?
Also, the geometry is a little screwy (the middle third scales at a different rate to the sides when I re-size width via the osd) any tips on tweaking geometry in windas would be appreciated as well.
 
I set it to show a red screen so the issue is most obvious. The purple at the bottom is very obvious, but there's also a very slight green along the right hand side. It basically seems to be the same as when you set the landing way off, except it's in the middle of the edges rather than on the corners. Are there any windas settings for this?

As far as I understand, WinDAS doesn't have any adjustments for this, but a degaussing coil may work. I've never used one, but someone may be able to help. I think the issue is that the aperture grille or screen has become magnetized at that spot, and is distorting the path of the electron beams. I think a degaussing coil helps to demagnetize, so perhaps this could help. Someone else with more experience here may be able to help.
 
my g520p's osd got disabled. when i press the menu button, only a key symbol appears, which is what happens during windas adjustments. i think i unplugged the ttl cable before closing windas. is there any way to reset it without reopening and closing windas? i don't want to remove the cover again to access the ttl port :p
 
nope, I believe u have to go into WinDAS again and choose the final setting thing :p

that's what I like about the FW900, you can leave the cable in there, even with the bezel on.
 
As far as I understand, WinDAS doesn't have any adjustments for this, but a degaussing coil may work. I've never used one, but someone may be able to help. I think the issue is that the aperture grille or screen has become magnetized at that spot, and is distorting the path of the electron beams. I think a degaussing coil helps to demagnetize, so perhaps this could help. Someone else with more experience here may be able to help.

Damn, I was hoping it would be easy. Interestingly, I tried the inbuilt degauss function in the OSD, for the 1 second or so that it's degaussing, the discoloration is completely gone.

Cheers for the help, I might try to ebay a cheap degaussing coil, electronics shops here don't appear to stock them.
 
my g520p's osd got disabled. when i press the menu button, only a key symbol appears, which is what happens during windas adjustments. i think i unplugged the ttl cable before closing windas. is there any way to reset it without reopening and closing windas? i don't want to remove the cover again to access the ttl port :p

Spacediver nailed it. You have to set the Final Setting (last item in the Procedure menu) before you're done calibrating. Otherwise the OSD is locked.
 
Damn, I was hoping it would be easy. Interestingly, I tried the inbuilt degauss function in the OSD, for the 1 second or so that it's degaussing, the discoloration is completely gone.

Cheers for the help, I might try to ebay a cheap degaussing coil, electronics shops here don't appear to stock them.

If you're going to hand-degauss it, do it with the monitor off. There's a magnetic sensor in the monitor that may get magnetized if you do it while the screen is on.
 
Hey guys, I'm having a couple issues with my fw900, any help would be greatly appreciated.
It currently looks like this-
L8nRjtv.jpg


I set it to show a red screen so the issue is most obvious. The purple at the bottom is very obvious, but there's also a very slight green along the right hand side. It basically seems to be the same as when you set the landing way off, except it's in the middle of the edges rather than on the corners. Are there any windas settings for this?
Also, the geometry is a little screwy (the middle third scales at a different rate to the sides when I re-size width via the osd) any tips on tweaking geometry in windas would be appreciated as well.

Based on the photo, the tube is heavily magnetized. Spot magnetization most likely is caused by a blow to the CRT or exposure to strong magnets.

UV!
 
my g520p's osd got disabled. when i press the menu button, only a key symbol appears, which is what happens during windas adjustments. i think i unplugged the ttl cable before closing windas. is there any way to reset it without reopening and closing windas? i don't want to remove the cover again to access the ttl port :p

That is caused by the sudden closing of WinDAS WITHOUT SAVING the final settings. You need to open WinDAS and re-save the final settings before exiting the program.

UV!
 
wow, i've heard those tubes are fantastic.

As for service mode, does this help?

Actually it doesn't help. Not sure what the hell that guys talking about, but doing the key combination does not work at all. It really sucks, because the bias needs to be adjusted on the guns. Gain is easily accessed - but bias? Nope. I did enter a factory mode like ala the Diamond Pro service manual you sent me. But alas, it has just two menus in factory - and nothing with BIAS. :(
 
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Is there any risk to using a degaussing coil, so long as monitor is off?

I believe that's what the service manual is saying, that the risk to the unit comes when degaussing is done with it being on. Can't say for certain right now because I don't have it handy. But yes, so long as you degauss the screen while the unit is OFF - you should be fine.
 
Actually it doesn't help. Not sure what the hell that guys talking about, but doing the key combination does not work at all.

well that thread I linked to was for a different model of the lacie electron blue than yours. It was the best I could find at the time which is why I asked if it helped :p
 
well that thread I linked to was for a different model of the lacie electron blue than yours. It was the best I could find at the time which is why I asked if it helped :p

Yeah. I do appreciate the help, and I wasn't meaning to sound mad or anything. I'm not. I am, however, frustrated at the fact that it looks like I can't adjust the Bias.
 
found this

When connected to a LaCie electron19blueII, electron22blue or electron22blueII, the LaCie video cable equipped with 2 HD-15 connectors and 1 USB connector allows the digital control of these monitors settings.
Instead of using the OSD (On-Screen-Display) available through the buttons on the front panel of the monitor all color, geometry and image settings can be adjusted digitally for a better ease-of-use and accuracy.

but yea, in the options listed, no BIAS - just gain.
 
found this



but yea, in the options listed, no BIAS - just gain.

Who knows. I do actually have the colorimeter. But no VGA/USB pigtail combination. Since VGA cables allow for TTL, I'm hoping (crossing my fingers!!) that my Artisan cable will work just the same...

EDIT, I do have to admit. For a monitor aimed at photopro's, it's a cardinal sin not to have an easily accessible BIAS control available.
 
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