24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

jbltecnicspro

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interesting, however quite expensive, also considering still fatal flaws such, as the mayority of modern displays it sadly seems to lose a massive amount of brightness when in crt motion clarity mode as seems in this video (linked at the exact moment 2:01 )

I mean you gotta start somewhere right? How long did it take for CRT’s like your beloved FW-900 to be made? 60 years?
 

manoleo

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The display shutting down with orange flashing means a safety was trigerred, does the led blink following a specific pattern ?

edit: oh, and when the monitor did briefly display an image, did it look "normal" or was there any obvious anomaly ?
Thanks again for the detailed explanations. The led blinks once every two seconds I would say(video attached). I have tried to search for the meaning of the blinking led patterns of this monitor but I wasn't able to find anything. For the brief second it was there the image looked ok in terms of color and brightness but was very low res (640x480). What I didn't explain in my first post is that when I first got the monitor it had the well known G2 problem and also the only resolution it would display was 640x480. I decreased the G2 voltage and it worked normally for a few hours. It was little out of focus and had a little convergence in the corners but other than that the monitor was ok. Then after a few hours the it turned off with the led blinking the same way as now. I have restarted it and it worked for a minute or two but again it wouldn't take any other res than 640x480. It turned off again and I started looking for information on the issue. The next time I tried to turn it on it was in the state I described in my first post here(retracted image, overly bright, not taking any signal).

 

Strat_84

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The only close reference I find for a blink every 2 seconds is in the P1130 service manual: ABL protector (that's consistant with the Windas error reading).

The problem is that this is related to a measurement of a voltage input at the entrance of the flyback, which is not linked at all to vertical deflection. And on the top of that I don't really understand what could prevent the use of any other resolution than 640x480, that's not likely to be a vertical deflection issue since it's always the same range of frequencies which is used regardless of the resolution. Your mystery looks like a tough one.

You said you did some recapping, did you replace C933 ? With what capacitor ? Did you double check the polarity is right ?

Several issues that do not seem directly related may be caused by the root of the device, the power supply. Did you do anything to the G board ? It could be useful to check the voltage lines with a multimeter (the top connectors provide proper measurement points). But that will only give a mean value, an oscilloscope would probably be necessary to detect some spikes.
 

manoleo

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So it looks like that there are still multiple problems in play.

Yes, I have replaced C933. I was 1UF 20.00% 50V 85°C but wasn't able to get exactly the same one so I have used 1UF 20.00% 63V 105°C. The polarity is correct. By the way the recapping didn't affect the monitor's behavior in any way.

I haven't done anything to the G board yet. I will try to do the suggested measurements. Unfortunately if an oscilloscope becomes necessary I will have to go to a repair shop.
 

Strat_84

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When I was asking what capacitor, I meant which brand/series. Increasing the operating voltage and temperature shouldn't be a problem. ;)

I forgot to ask also, what did happen when you tried to set resolutions other than 640x480 ? Did you get an "out of range" message ? Did the screen just shut down with orange flashing ? Did 640x480 work only @60hz or also with higher vertical refresh rates ?

Regarding voltage measurement in all cases monitoring this with an oscilloscope would be the best (in such case, probing the top connectors wouldn't be handy, it's better to clip the probe somewhere near the output of each line on the G board). But at the very least the multimeter will allow to check if a line's voltage is obviously off (too low or too high). That could be a worthy clue. It can be done without any VGA input displayed as long as the monitor hasn't switched to standby mode yet.
 
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manoleo

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When I was asking what capacitor, I meant which brand/series. Increasing the operating voltage and temperature shouldn't be a problem. ;)

I forgot to ask also, what did happen when you tried to set resolutions other than 640x480 ? Did you get an "out of range" message ? Did the screen just shut down with orange flashing ? Did 640x480 work only @60hz or also with higher vertical refresh rates ?

Regarding voltage measurement in all cases monitoring this with an oscilloscope would be the best (in such case, probing the top connectors wouldn't be handy, it's better to clip the probe somewhere near the output of each line on the G board). But at the very least the multimeter will allow to check if a line's voltage is obviously off (too low or too high). That could be a worthy clue. It can be done without any VGA input displayed as long as the monitor hasn't switched to standby mode yet.
Ah sorry. The brand of the capacitor is KEA but I doubt you've heard of it. It's a local Bulgarian brand. They used to make caps for ITT.

When I tried resolutions other than 640x480 the monitor would display the desired resolution for a brief moment but then it would immediately revert to 640x480@60Hz. I didn't try higher refresh rates at that res.

I will try measuring with the multimeter tomorrow when I have more time.
 

3dfan

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I mean you gotta start somewhere right? How long did it take for CRT’s like your beloved FW-900 to be made? 60 years?
man, dont missunderstand me, i dont consider myself a kind of blinded crt belover, i been wishing for ages there would be finally a real crt modern monitor replacement available for gaming enjoiment without so many flaws, tradeoffs, side effects etc.

motion blur reduction technicles on tv is not that new, the first tv i saw with an option for that was about 2 years, however the tradeoff was instant notable: considerable ammount of brightness reduction, more notable flicker than i perseive on crts at even 60hz, and image was double while moving (double strobing i guess), as today those type of issues still persists. so i have lost my hopes because now i am 99.9% sure newer blur reduction technologies still does not improve many of those issues on modern tv - monitors because of bussiness profitable reasons, not because of lack of technology evolution time need for improvement or something like that, since the vast majority of video gamers in the world dont even care about motion clarity, so there is no need for the tv - monitor manufacturers to really focus and improve motion quality issues since they are still getting their profit anyway, other story would be if most video gamers would not buy modern monitors or tvs because of those issues, if that would be the case, i bet we already had long time ago a real featured flawless crt flat version of lcds or oleds.
 

jbltecnicspro

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man, dont missunderstand me, i dont consider myself a kind of blinded crt belover, i been wishing for ages there would be finally a real crt modern monitor replacement available for gaming enjoiment without so many flaws, tradeoffs, side effects etc.

motion blur reduction technicles on tv is not that new, the first tv i saw with an option for that was about 2 years, however the tradeoff was instant notable: considerable ammount of brightness reduction, more notable flicker than i perseive on crts at even 60hz, and image was double while moving (double strobing i guess), as today those type of issues still persists. so i have lost my hopes because now i am 99.9% sure newer blur reduction technologies still does not improve many of those issues on modern tv - monitors because of bussiness profitable reasons, not because of lack of technology evolution time need for improvement or something like that, since the vast majority of video gamers in the world dont even care about motion clarity, so there is no need for the tv - monitor manufacturers to really focus and improve motion quality issues since they are still getting their profit anyway, other story would be if most video gamers would not buy modern monitors or tvs because of those issues, if that would be the case, i bet we already had long time ago a real featured flawless crt flat version of lcds or oleds.
Oh no worries. I'm not trying to come down on you. I was just trying to emphasize that this tech, though it's newer, is still infantile in its maturity compared to CRT. CRT had a great run, arguably cut short because it could have kept going. But at least OLED is a true contender to replace it. It'll still take awhile before it completely dethrones CRT, but for me it's close enough.

As for its brightness reduction in low-blur modes. Well... That's why CRT is so "dim" compared to other techs right? Because it's a single pixel scan, as opposed to all pixels lit. Honestly, in a light-controlled environment OLED's brightness is plenty and the fact that it does pure black AND keeps gamma tracking is just icing on the cake. Sure, you can do this with CRT, provided you have some kind of external processing (honestly - why couldn't CRT monitors come with a gamma adjustment?!) but still - it's all in the screen.

For me personally, I'm going to keep an eye out for what JOLED produces. Ideally, I would like a 4K 32-inch screen myself.
 

flod

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i've owned 3 smartphones and recently a laptop (galaxy chromebook) with oled displays. they are all samsung panels. i have the following complaints:
1. black crush. and the fact that the amount of black crush varies depending on the brightness setting.
in principle this can be fixed by calibration, but i think it means that low-level intensity is difficult to control in general. maybe each pixel should be driven with a current source instead of voltage (or vice versa, i don't know what's actually being done)
2. slow transitions from black to dark gray
3. burn in


by the way, my icy box ib-spl1031 (i believe identical to sunix dpu3000 and delock arrived a few days ago. seems to work well so far. fortunately i have a miniDP to DP cable already.
is there any way for it output the exact same signal from each port, with identical refresh rate and vblank timing? duplicating in windows doesn't do this exactly.
i think this sort of HDMI splitter does: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0822HWM4L

edit: guess it would take something like https://www.newegg.com/aten-vs192-displayport/p/14P-009T-00001
holy crap that's expensive
 
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Hello, I've just got broken Dell P1130 for 10$, i rescued it from scrap in some way. The tube has no scratches so this makes me i want to repair it.

Symptoms: After turn on, it *click* once and does not show anything, after 1min or so it goes orange led blinking fast.

zeMz4Fq.png
Diagnosis: from service manual it means problem with B+. I also check and there is no g2 voltage, but i think it's related with B+ problem. I can't connect it with windas but i don't know how to do it when it does not display any image. I also checked A1 board (board with vga inputs) in my other P1130 and it works.


I know electronics a bit, i know how to discharge flyback and i've done it already not once time. I know how to solder, im just newbie at crt repair.
 

Strat_84

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Hello, I've just got broken Dell P1130 for 10$, i rescued it from scrap in some way. The tube has no scratches so this makes me i want to repair it.

Symptoms: After turn on, it *click* once and does not show anything, after 1min or so it goes orange led blinking fast.

View attachment 253331
Diagnosis: from service manual it means problem with B+. I also check and there is no g2 voltage, but i think it's related with B+ problem. I can't connect it with windas but i don't know how to do it when it does not display any image. I also checked A1 board (board with vga inputs) in my other P1130 and it works.


I know electronics a bit, i know how to discharge flyback and i've done it already not once time. I know how to solder, im just newbie at crt repair.
I think you should be able to connect to the service port even in that case, the 5v line powering digital circuits isn't shut down when a safety is triggered, and the cable to the computer can provide some 5V power too.

Anyway, you got the service manual, you got the diagnosis, you have everything you need. Now the game is to find clues to narrow down the issue (taking measurements or checking components). It can be anything from a failed 200V power line, a problem with the IC901 control chip or a component in the vicinity, to a failed mosfet (Q901/Q902) or any component in the vicinity of these mosfets.
That kind of troubleshooting especially won't be easy on the P1130 as everything is cramped on a single board. The older models are much more convenient with bigger and separate boards for each main functions.

Oh, and IMO forget about discharging flybacks, if what you mean is to slip a grounded screwdriver under the sucker. This is pretty stupid, this is how insulation or the sucker get damaged, and this is clearly forbidden in the service manual.
The service manual clearly states how to handle the anode cap and how to discharge it after removal.
 
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think you should be able to connect to the service port even in that case, the 5v line powering digital circuits isn't shut down when a safety is triggered, and the cable to the computer can provide some 5V power too.
Monitor provide 5V on TTL conventer (i can clearly see it because it has led on it) even if it has orange led blinking.
You gave me some clues thank you.

I thought it can be only one element as B+ has transistor near B+ coil, but P1130 has more coils and more resistors.. I have to check every resistor.
It can't be something else but resistors are likely to fail.
fet%20field%20effect%20transistor.jpg
Image from: http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/Fet-field-effect-transistor.html

Oh, and IMO forget about discharging flybacks, [...]
Yes, i know. I unplug it carefully grabbing by rubber and stick it to ground.


EDIT:
I connected with WinDas in failure it says:
LOW_B_STOP error

EDIT2:
I found HOT, it's Toshiba 2SC5570, how to check if its ok?
 
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Hike

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Following your advice I was able to fix the problem with the retracted image. Thanks a lot! R729 on the D board was faulty. It went from 1 ohm to almost 600. I also improved the overly bright image by reducing the G2 voltage. However the problem with the input signal still remains. When I plug in a VGA cable the monitor displays an image only for a second then turns off with the orange led flashing. WinDAS detects the following errors:
View attachment 252684

Any ideas on how to fight these errors will be much appreciated.
I would like to ask if there is any cable of the D board removed inside?
 

Strat_84

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EDIT:
I connected with WinDas in failure it says:
LOW_B_STOP error

EDIT2:
I found HOT, it's Toshiba 2SC5570, how to check if its ok?
Well, I suppose that means the B+ voltage is too low. And as I said, there are numerous failures that can lead to this.

Regarding the HOT, you don't need to check it, don't touch it. It's not related at all to a problem with B+ generation.

If I may give you an advice, read the schematics of the D board in the service manual. If you can't understand them, you'll never fix this.
Locate the B+ line, from the main transformer to Q901 and the flyback. IC901 is involved as well as it controls Q901/Q902. This is your playground. Print the schematics and follow the lines, check the components on these lines, once you know one is ok, mark it with a pen and check the next one. This is tedious but it's the only way without more informations, the more components you know to be OK, the less candidates for the failure. Start with the resistors and diodes, that can be done with a common multimeter. Desoldering is required only if you get a wrong measurement that can't be explained by the surrounding circuitry. Avoid desoldering coils, these are very unlikely to fail (though it happens), and the insulation on the coil wires often doesn't like to be heated very much.
For other components like capacitors, mosfets, transistors, inductances (but not transformers), a component tester like the MK-328 can be used (off circuit). It's cheap and quite effective.
 
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Strat_84: Thanks a lot. I know how to read schematics. I'm newbie in electronics but I'm very desperated to make it work.
You gave me clue which elements should i check so that's all for now.

I easly located Q901, Q902. I will check elements related with it tommorow.

Thanks!

Edit: I wanted to measure R914 but I'm not sure which it is exacly:
8qVvMh6.png

Edit2: Nevermind, I found it, it's ok. Going further!
Edit3: Ok, i checked: R908, R911, R912, R914, R915, R916, R934, R936. They are all ok.
Edit4: How to test zener diode? I set my multimeter on diode resistance mode and it shows for example "720" and "1170" when reversed plus and minus.
 
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Strat_84

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Strat_84: Thanks a lot. I know how to read schematics. I'm newbie in electronics but I'm very desperated to make it work.
You gave me clue which elements should i check so that's all for now.

I easly located Q901, Q902. I will check elements related with it tommorow.

Thanks!

Edit: I wanted to measure R914 but I'm not sure which it is exacly:
View attachment 253417

Edit2: Nevermind, I found it, it's ok. Going further!
Edit3: Ok, i checked: R908, R911, R912, R914, R915, R916, R934, R936. They are all ok.
I checked again the schematics, it was interesting to understand what is exactly that low B error and how it is detected.

It's not perfectly clear but it must be the LB_DET signal, and it is not directly determined from the B+ voltage but from the 15V line. There seem to be an automated safety shutting down all the -15V, +15V, 80V and B+ together when the B+ (200V) line isn't right.

It's likely the culprit isn't further than there:

P1130_1.jpg


Check the following components and their solders:
1°) R698, R660, R661
2°) the diode bridges D650, D652 (can't hurt to check D651 as well even though it likely can't cause the error)
3°) L652, L653 in continuity mode (you want to know if the inductance has failed open), same thing for the internal windings of T620 (but if T620 is damaged, you're screwed up. Specific part, hard to get.)
4°) R699, R691, R692, R693, R694, R639, R640
5°) R651
6°) R646, R645, R642, R641, R643, R656, R654

If all this is ok, potentials failures may be IC640, PH610 (I don't know if these can really fail, especially PH610), Q641, Q640, IC620. The chip MCZ3001D is know for its unreliability in TVs, but that was supposed to be with older batches than the one you may find in a P1130.
 
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I checked voltage on Q901 and Q902 and there are always about 60v which is way too low. I've done it without A1 board and H4 board if it matters.
Check the following components and their solders:
Ok, i will check the power supply area.

edit:
1. i can't find R698, R660, R661
2. D650 ok, D652 not sure (shows about 150 on multimeter on diode test), D651 ok
3. how to check inductors? in condiniuty mode on multimeter they are all ok. idk how to measure t620
4. not sure about R699, R691, R692, R693, R694 (resistance raises up). R639, R640 is ok.
5. R651 ok

edit2:
does IC620 solders looks normal to you? never mind it's like that in the scheme also.
Ij5B2oL.jpg
lN818KH.jpg

edit3:
Can i measure B+ voltage in D620?
 
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Strat_84

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I checked voltage on Q901 and Q902 and there are always about 60v which is way too low. I've done it without A1 board and H4 board if it matters.
Please, refrain from measuring some electronic powered, with parts of the system removed, especially unless you know exactly what you're doing. That could become dangerous.

Now, where did you exactly take these measurements ?Which pins of the mosfets ? There's no direct link to B+ voltage on Q902, and depending on the resolution selected 60V may be completely normal there. BTW a multimeter is barely indicative in that location, it's a waveform voltage, not some continuous voltage.

2. D650 ok, D652 not sure (shows about 150 on multimeter on diode test), D651 ok
The value you read for a diode test doesn't really matter (unless you compare that to the datasheet). What is important is to make sure the diode lets the current through one way, and blocks it the other way. Measurement has to be taken between pin 1 and 4, 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 2 and 3.

3. how to check inductors? in condiniuty mode on multimeter they are all ok. idk how to measure t620
The schematic shows where the windings are located. For example there is one between pin 9 and 11.

4. not sure about R699, R691, R692, R693, R694 (resistance raises up). R639, R640 is ok.
R699 shouldn't exceed 680 ohms, and the others 33 kohms / 36 kohms. If your multimeter is able to read resistances that high, it should give a proper value. Desolder one of these resistors (a leaded one, like R691 or R692) and check it again.

Can i measure B+ voltage in D620?
There's no D620, what do you mean ?
 

manoleo

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I would like to ask if there is any cable of the D board removed inside?
No, all the cables are connected properly.

By the way I did the voltage measurements on the G board which Strat_84 suggested but all voltages seem right. I guess I should keep looking for something wrong on the D board.
 

Strat_84

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On every pin it has around 60v.

I meant D650.
Nonsense. You can't read 60V on every pin of both Q901 and Q902. That's absolutely impossible whatever the failure could be.

Yes, you could measure the B+ voltage on D650. It's not recommended with probes usually found on a multimeter (without a clip), it's easy to have the probe slipping between two pins, create a short and damage something (like the main transformer, the very component you can't replace ...).

edit: Wait, I'm afraid I may be understanding that 60V thing ... When you performed your measurements, was the board outside of the monitor's case ? Without any black wire connected between the case and the board, or without the yellow/green wire from the power plug connected to the monitor's case ?
 
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edit: Wait, I'm afraid I may be understanding that 60V thing ... When you performed your measurements, was the board outside of the monitor's case ? Without any black wire connected between the case and the board, or without the yellow/green wire from the power plug connected to the monitor's case ?
Yes, it was without yellow/green connected with monitor's case. Ground from power cord is connected by CN602 connector. Take a look (i didn't had minus from multimeter laying, it's for the photo only. i know the risk).
7YSfIg7.jpg
 

Strat_84

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Yes, it was without yellow/green connected with monitor's case. Ground from power cord is connected by CN602 connector. Take a look (i didn't had minus from multimeter laying, it's for the photo only. i know the risk).
View attachment 253801
:facepalm:

Congratulations. Whatever the issue may have been in the first place, now I think you can stop wasting your time with this board. You powered it up with a floating ground. I can't imagine the amount of damage this may have caused and where.
Oh, you could have taken an electric shock if touching the rads of this board when doing so. Extremely dangerous.

There's no ground in the CN602 connector, only phase and neutral lines. The Earth line is the green/yellow wire, that must be connected to the case to keep it at zero volt. The case itself is the ground, and it's connected to the board's ground tracks through the screws (maybe also a couple of extra wires clipped to the case, but I'm not sure on this model).
 

3dfan

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by the way, my icy box ib-spl1031 (i believe identical to sunix dpu3000 and delock arrived a few days ago. seems to work well so far.
thaks for sharing your experience, if posible, can you please test your if your icy box ib-spl1031 will work at 2560x1440@80hz? which is about 426mhz and dpu3000 can handle, would give and idea it that adapter is using the same dpu3000 chip or similar
also have you had any weird issues with that adapter so far, such image cornes being split right to left or viceversa, the last bottom of the imagen being replicate in the top or image, some image "shaking" trembling?
;)
 
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There's no ground in the CN602 connector, only phase and neutral lines. The Earth line is the green/yellow wire, that must be connected to the case to keep it at zero volt. The case itself is the ground, and it's connected to the board's ground tracks through the screws (maybe also a couple of extra wires clipped to the case, but I'm not sure on this model).
This is service position. I don't think it can damage anything without Earth but I'll check it by assembling it like before. There are no warnings about this in service manual. I also don't see any Earth in scheme.
1592225481893.png
 
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Strat_84

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This is service position. I don't think it can damage anything without Earth but I'll check it by assembling it like before. There are no warnings about this in service manual.
A cryptic drawing isn't enough to stop showing some common sense. In that position it can't be powered with the included power plug, so either there is some extra wiring, not included and not showed on the drawing, or the monitor isn't intended to be powered in that state.
 

Strat_84

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I don't know what have happened so I can't guarantee anything.

But I suppose best case nothing will happen because some fried components just prevent anything from working, worst case there are shorts directly from a power supply line to the ground and you'll quickly blow a fuse or a resistor somewhere.
 

flod

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thaks for sharing your experience, if posible, can you please test your if your icy box ib-spl1031 will work at 2560x1440@80hz? which is about 426mhz and dpu3000 can handle, would give and idea it that adapter is using the same dpu3000 chip or similar
also have you had any weird issues with that adapter so far, such image cornes being split right to left or viceversa, the last bottom of the imagen being replicate in the top or image, some image "shaking" trembling?
;)
yup 2560x1440x80 works via CRU. 425.22MHz

the first day i tried, yes i saw some weird phenomena, wavy patterns on left and right side of screen.
edit: got that again randomly. leftmost and rightmost columns of display somehow get swapped. not sure how to reproduce.

edit2: also got the bottom-line-on-top bug. it seems to come and go randomly. i think the icy box is exactly the same as dpu3000
 
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I don't know what have happened so I can't guarantee anything.

But I suppose best case nothing will happen because some fried components just prevent anything from working, worst case there are shorts directly from a power supply line to the ground and you'll quickly blow a fuse or a resistor somewhere.
I assembled it and nothing happend, it works just like before. Turn on, one click and then went to blinking orange which means b+ also the same error in WinDas.
Do you know what Earth mean? It does not blow up things if not connected, its safety related. In older houses you don't even have that thing in electrical outlet.
 

Strat_84

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Do you know what Earth mean? It does not blow up things if not connected, its safety related. In older houses you don't even have that thing in electrical outlet.
Ok, it's pointless. I'm not getting angry today.

If you think you know what you're doing, it's not my problem anymore.
 
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3dfan

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yup 2560x1440x80 works via CRU. 425.22MHz

the first day i tried, yes i saw some weird phenomena, wavy patterns on left and right side of screen.
edit: got that again randomly. leftmost and rightmost columns of display somehow get swapped. not sure how to reproduce.

edit2: also got the bottom-line-on-top bug. it seems to come and go randomly. i think the icy box is exactly the same as dpu3000
yes seems the same internal chip definitely.

on my sunix dpu3000. creating the desired resolution / refresh rate combo via custom resolution utility from nvidia control panel using the gtf timing , and then ensuring that resolution refresh rate combo created in nvidia panel is NOT displayed in the custom resolution (CRU) from utility from ToastyX and also ensuring the monitor is detected as gdm-fw900 and not like generic or "VMM2300 DEMO" cured those issues on mine.

for example, create 1920 x1200 @90hz in nvidia panel with gtf standard timing, then look at cru from toastyx and see there is no 1920 x1200 @90hz there, does not matter if there is 1920 x1200 @85hz also see if the monitor is listed there like something like "SNY01E0 -GDM-FW900 (active)*

Clipboard01.jpg



i dont know why, i am not too savvy in this technically, but using 1920x1200 90hz and others i also use this way, i have not had any single issue again on those since about 3 months of using my monitor with this adapter daily and using that res-refresh combo and others created that way frecuently. before using this metod, i also had those issues all sunix dpu3000 and equivalet adapter users have had as well.

you may try this same metod on your adapter assuming you have and nvidia card, i have never tested it on amd cards, so maybe works for you as well.
 
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3dfan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
151
as for the LG's 48CX, motion clarity quality, will have to see to believe , but honest i am being rather skeptical on its motion clarity handling, in the linked you tube video the brightness loss, at its best motion quality mode, seems very massive, also image even seems crushed.


i have been doing some research about 48CX motion clarity information such brigntness measured levels, resolution and refresh rate compatibilities with its motion clarity modes ,etc, but so far have not found revelant info about, however it worries me that i found a review of what seems to be in the same family review of an "lg oled cx" released early this year here which seems to have the same " OLED Motion Pro " with low, med, high and auto settings in the the 48CX, in that review they measured a really dissapointing low luminance level on its "crt motion quality" "high" mode of 77 nits which i undestand would be the same as 77cd/m2, from my understanding, crt luminace levels are around 120 cd/m2, so those levels are even considerable lower than a crt, also they mentioned a so notable flicker that they dont even recommend to use that mode on any content at all, sure the higher modes than "high" will give higher brightness but also degrade motion clarity no longer being in the life like clear crt motion range, so if its the case of the 48CX, motion handling, will be atrocious in my opinion.


as for joled, for me its seems another aborted attemp to bring oled to the gamers and make it mainstream, it was about 2 years when i first heard of it, and so far i have not seen, nor heard about that again. in my opinion, as long as most gaming consumers in the world are happy spending their money on high refresh tn monitors, i hardly see any company seriously considering competing that market with more expensive making, lower lifespan, higly burn in risky (specialy as being used as computer monitors) and less profitable oled gaming monitors.
 
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flod

Gawd
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Messages
948
i dont know why, i am not too savvy in this technically, but using 1920x1200 90hz and others i also use this way, i have not had any single issue again on those since about 3 months of using my monitor with this adapter daily and using that res-refresh combo and others created that way frecuently. before using this metod, i also had those issues all sunix dpu3000 and equivalet adapter users have had as well.

you may try this same metod on your adapter assuming you have and nvidia card, i have never tested it on amd cards, so maybe works for you as well.
thanks for the info. what about 1920x1200 85Hz? do you get issues when not using gtf timing (e.g. some of the timings requested by windas)?

on my old pc, i have a gtx970, which has dvi-i
my new pc has a amd 5700xt which only has digital outputs
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,019
the first day i tried, yes i saw some weird phenomena, wavy patterns on left and right side of screen.
edit: got that again randomly. leftmost and rightmost columns of display somehow get swapped. not sure how to reproduce.
I've noticed this starts to happen above 2048 horizontal pixels. Like I can't really use resolutions that have between 2048 and 2400 horizontal pixels, they start "swapping sides" too often. I think there is also a vertical resolution where it starts happening, maybe 1536? 2048x1536 will go completely black sometimes, so I think there is something to those numbers. 1920x1440 is very stable at all refresh rates

And the other strange part of this bug is that if you go far beyond 2048, like 2560, 2880, stuff like that, the side-switching happens a lot less. Like I've run 2560x1920 and 2880x2160 @ 60hz and never had the side switching issue. 2304x1728 was also most useable, side switching didn't happen nearly as much

my new pc has a amd 5700xt which only has digital outputs
So does your 5700xt also totally ignore CRU when you're using the DP adapter? I have to use AMD's built in tool.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
151
thanks for the info. what about 1920x1200 85Hz? do you get issues when not using gtf timing (e.g. some of the timings requested by windas)?
on my old pc, i have a gtx970, which has dvi-i
my new pc has a amd 5700xt which only has digital outputs
i dont use and have not tested with 1920x1200 at 85hz, so dont know, also i dont use windas, and i see you have an amd card and i have never used the sunix with amd, so dont know man, however did you check if your monitor s being detected properly by CRU?


So does your 5700xt also totally ignore CRU when you're using the DP adapter? I have to use AMD's built in tool.
without taking into account the sunix other behaviour issues (waving, corners swaps, etc) is CRU detecting your monitor as it is with its proper brand name? i ask because on the gtx 1080 ti with dpu3000, if the monitor is detected properly with its brand mame, games and windows will detect resolutions - refreshes created on CRU, but NOT if the monitor is detected as "generic" or "VMM2300 DEMO" and as happens with you, those created in CRU are ignored that way
 
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Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,019
without taking into account the sunix other behaviour issues (waving, corners swaps, etc) is CRU detecting your monitor as it is with its proper brand name? i ask because on the gtx 1080 ti with dpu3000, if the monitor is detected properly with its brand mame, games and windows will detect resolutions - refreshes created on CRU, but NOT if the monitor is detected as "generic" or "VMM2300 DEMO" and as happens with you, those created in CRU are ignored that way
Yeah, I plug the monitor into the adapter before I plug the adapter into the PC, so my monitor is always detected. This definitely seems to be an issue with Radeon, or maybe just the new architecture, Navi.
 

Flybye

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
253
hi jei. i have a gtx 1080ti paired with sunix dpu3000 to fw900 crt and my experience with it have been fantastic so far, however this adapter is tricky to setup some resolutions / refres rate combos correctly to avoid some issues this adapter use to get when using some resolution as they are detected by default, , for more info search this thread words like "sunix" "dpu3000" "delock" also i suggest to search for user Derupter posts in this thread, this user have done a very helpful research about good quality adapters to use with modern graphics cards and high end crt monitors.
Have you been able to push 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz with your FW900 and the Sunix?
 
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