24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

3dfan

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👍 however keep in mind the sunix dpu3000 is a tricky adapter, as many users i have read from their experiences with this adapter, 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz have issues such the image left corner swaping to the other side of the screen as also happens with mine if i use that resolution and refresh rate as it is detected by default, again as i said, in my system with gtx 1080ti (asus rog-strix-gaming) that issue dissapeared when i set up 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz with the method i posted some post above, but i cannot guaranty this will work with the sunix dpu3000 or equivalent inside chip adapter for other users, also it seems the sunix behave diferrent depending on the graphics card brand being connected, as seem to happened with the amd radeon rx 5700 xt.
 
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Flybye

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Yes, I noticed you mentioned to first attach the monitor to the adapter then adapter to the video card. I have only stayed with Nividia cards for over a decade, so I am hoping I will be okay. I sometimes have to create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel to make 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz work. So I plan to write down timing and data specifics to create it again if I need to before connecting anything.
 
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3dfan

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interesting, but what is that exactly for? please excuse my ignorance, i dont have experience with windas, but does that mean that the fw900 can support 2304 x 1440 @ 85hz via windas or something?, i tried to replicate those vaules via cru and nvidia control panel, but both gave an "out of range" monitor message with horizontal frequency of about 128khz.
 

Strat_84

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Actually it's a list of all the settings of the resolutions that are requested in Windas when setting up geometry and so on. 2304x1440@85hz is a resolution registered in Windas but it cannot be used because of the horizontal refresh limitations. I guess it's a leftover, the resolution might have been considered or even possible with a prototype but the series model doesn't support that.
 
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jbltecnicspro

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Here's a handy resolution sheet someone here made: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7vymb5hm6zer1ne/AADKNwx8pHl1MuPGXcRk_QkIa/Software/windas_sg_config.xlsx
These are the default modes and the rest you can generate with GTF.
Remember to clear your monitor's user resolutions before doing WinDAS! Just a PSA. Press and hold the reset button. That will clear it. If you don't, what can happen is that you may dial up the correct resolution, but the monitor can get "stupid" and accidentally select a user resolution that's close to but not exactly the preset resolution that WinDAS expects. I don't know if it makes any difference beyond adjusting the user preset resolutions (the option in WinDAS which allows you to select different modes and adjust their default geometry settings) but it wouldn't hurt to get it correct.
 
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androsforever

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I just realized I have a Sony FW900 hidden away under my staircase from many years ago XD
My main pc gaming display is a Dell s2417dg 165hz tn lcd. I am tempted to take the 2 ton beast into my bedroom but I am worried about the risk of radiation.
How safe are these built? Could it have broken being left in the dust all this time and pose a risk?
 

jbltecnicspro

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I just realized I have a Sony FW900 hidden away under my staircase from many years ago XD
My main pc gaming display is a Dell s2417dg 165hz tn lcd. I am tempted to take the 2 ton beast into my bedroom but I am worried about the risk of radiation.
How safe are these built? Could it have broken being left in the dust all this time and pose a risk?
Is this a joke? Turn it on and enjoy man. The only way that tube is emitting unsafe radiation is if the B+ voltage runs away and gets too high. At that point the set would shut itself off. Seriously, all that lead in that glass... you’re fine.
 

androsforever

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Hahaha ok, you know what, I think it's time to make space for a third display in my bedroom: My lg 55 inch oled, 24 inch dell s2417dg and a soon to be resurrected Sony fw900!
Btw the story is that I had sold the fw900 many years ago to a colorist that was traveling. When he moved back to the US he had to leave the apartment and couldn't keep the fw900, so he decided to give it back to me for free.
Later I found out that he was a colorist that had worked in the Lord of the Rings, pretty impressive guy. I wonder if he ever used this monitor for any famous movies XD
 

Flybye

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I just realized I have a Sony FW900 hidden away under my staircase from many years ago XD
My main pc gaming display is a Dell s2417dg 165hz tn lcd. I am tempted to take the 2 ton beast into my bedroom but I am worried about the risk of radiation.
How safe are these built? Could it have broken being left in the dust all this time and pose a risk?
During the “radiation” scare era, I read an article that the radiation is only a problem if you are an inch or so from the screen 24 hours a day for 10 years. Lol
 

Flybye

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So I ordered the Delock 87685 straight from Germany. I will, hopefully, have it early next week. :D I am excited to finally start testing it. If all goes well with the 980 Ti, I will finally be able to upgrade to a new video card. :geek:
 
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androsforever

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I have a question, I have a 1080ti with 3 dp, 2 hdmi and 1 dvi-d outputs. I already have a VGA cable; which adapter should I choose out of the three to use with the fw900 to get maximum resolution and refresh rate?
 
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I just realized I have a Sony FW900 hidden away under my staircase from many years ago XD
My main pc gaming display is a Dell s2417dg 165hz tn lcd. I am tempted to take the 2 ton beast into my bedroom but I am worried about the risk of radiation.
How safe are these built? Could it have broken being left in the dust all this time and pose a risk?
You've had a FW900 all this time, but you chose to use a bland TN panel instead? Oh well at least you're finally coming around.

I have a question, I have a 1080ti with 3 dp, 2 hdmi and 1 dvi-d outputs. I already have a VGA cable; which adapter should I choose out of the three to use with the fw900 to get maximum resolution and refresh rate?
No adapter is perfect, but the Sunix DPU3000 (or one of the other versions under different brand names) can support near 550mHz pixel clock. So it can handle almost any resolution you run your FW900 at. But it can run into problems at horizontal resolutions between 2048-2304 pixels. 2304 and above is usually fine though, as is anything below 2048.

Also, two pieces of software I recommend to every new CRT user: Custom Resolution Utility and RTSS. CRU will let you create and save resolutions easily, so you'll be able to craft resolutions on the fly for whatever games you're playing. Like, you don't ever have to reduce settings, you can just reduce resolution or refresh rate.

And RTSS has a thing called "scanline-sync" which is almost like Gsync for a CRT. It's vsync without a frame buffer, so no lag. Requires a little headroom on GPU utilization though. Alternatively, you can use RTSS normal frame rate limiter to cap the frame rate 0.003hz below your refresh rate, and combine that with vsync to reduce lag by at least a frame
 

androsforever

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No adapter is perfect, but the Sunix DPU3000 (or one of the other versions under different brand names) can support near 550mHz pixel clock. So it can handle almost any resolution you run your FW900 at. But it can run into problems at horizontal resolutions between 2048-2304 pixels. 2304 and above is usually fine though, as is anything below 2048.

Also, two pieces of software I recommend to every new CRT user: Custom Resolution Utility and RTSS. CRU will let you create and save resolutions easily, so you'll be able to craft resolutions on the fly for whatever games you're playing. Like, you don't ever have to reduce settings, you can just reduce resolution or refresh rate.

And RTSS has a thing called "scanline-sync" which is almost like Gsync for a CRT. It's vsync without a frame buffer, so no lag. Requires a little headroom on GPU utilization though. Alternatively, you can use RTSS normal frame rate limiter to cap the frame rate 0.003hz below your refresh rate, and combine that with vsync to reduce lag by at least a frame
Thanks for the info, I've looked for the Sunix DPU3000 but can't find it in the european area. Would the "YIWENTEC DVI VGA Adapter, Active DVI-D 24+1 to VGA Link Video Adapter Cable Converter" which is available in my country be sufficent to perform at a decent resolution?
 
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Would the "YIWENTEC DVI VGA Adapter, Active DVI-D 24+1 to VGA Link Video Adapter Cable Converter" which is available in my country be sufficent to perform at a decent resolution?
Probably not, looks very cheap. Most DAC's are 1080p60hz maximum, and that's probably the case with this one. But there are a million DAC's in the world, and we discovered the Sunix by accident. So it's impossible to know without testing.

Thanks for the info, I've looked for the Sunix DPU3000 but can't find it in the european area.
In Europe there are two other brands that have the same chipset (Synaptics VMM2322). One is made by DeLock, the other I think is made by "ICE" or something.

If you read through the past 20 or so pages, you'll see us talking about them. I don't remember the model numbers off the top of my head.
 

androsforever

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In Europe there are two other brands that have the same chipset (Synaptics VMM2322). One is made by DeLock, the other I think is made by "ICE" or something.

If you read through the past 20 or so pages, you'll see us talking about them. I don't remember the model numbers off the top of my head.
I found the DeLOCK 87685 for sale in my country at around 100 euros, from what I read in past posts it should be good, no?
 

melibond

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Hey there, I hope you're well.

I let this slide for some time, but as you can see, on the 3 pictures I took, there is a shadow going to the right of anything distinct on screen.

Is this a deffect ? If so, does anyone know anything about it, and what could I do to fix it ?
 

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I found the DeLOCK 87685 for sale in my country at around 100 euros, from what I read in past posts it should be good, no?
Yeah that's the one, identical to the Sunix

This is what I use. It supports all resolutions : https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/adap...le-vga-female-black-delock-62967-p211925.html

It's 15-20 euros depending on where you buy it.
This one only goes up to 330 or 360 mHz I believe, so it can't quite drive all the resolutions the FW900 can do, like 2560x1600 @ 70hz for instance.
 

manoleo

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I just found out that the A board of my faulty HP A7217A (FW900) monitor is almost identical to the A board of Dell P1110. Switching the boards didn't solve my problem because the fault seems to be somewhere else, but it's a fact that the P1110 A board is compatible with FW900. I thought this information might be helpful to somebody else. Sorry if it's old news.
 

melibond

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Yeah that's the one, identical to the Sunix



This one only goes up to 330 or 360 mHz I believe, so it can't quite drive all the resolutions the FW900 can do, like 2560x1600 @ 70hz for instance.
I thought 2560x1600 @60hz was its max...

How fast is the Analogix ANX6212 by the way ? Cause, I've ordered 4 of those to replace the one on my delock. Also do you have any idea about the problem I'm having with my monitor ? Check out the comment I made with the 3 pinned pictures.
 

melibond

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I just found out that the A board of my faulty HP A7217A (FW900) monitor is almost identical to the A board of Dell P1110. Switching the boards didn't solve my problem because the fault seems to be somewhere else, but it's a fact that the P1110 A board is compatible with FW900. I thought this information might be helpful to somebody else. Sorry if it's old news.
For 15-20 euros, it can do most though. So for the buck, it's the best you'll get. And with an ANX6212 replacement, it could get even better.
 

melibond

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I just found out that the A board of my faulty HP A7217A (FW900) monitor is almost identical to the A board of Dell P1110. Switching the boards didn't solve my problem because the fault seems to be somewhere else, but it's a fact that the P1110 A board is compatible with FW900. I thought this information might be helpful to somebody else. Sorry if it's old news.
I'm just saying of course. I'd Love that 2560x1600@70hz too :p
 

3dfan

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Hey there, I hope you're well.

I let this slide for some time, but as you can see, on the 3 pictures I took, there is a shadow going to the right of anything distinct on screen.

Is this a deffect ? If so, does anyone know anything about it, and what could I do to fix it ?
mine also have that, but less notable than yours, is so barely notable that never have bothered nor worried me, also i believe you have your monitor black levels too high, i tested rising my black levels as well and it also makes that "shadow thing" unecesary more notable, whats your "brightness" current value?
 

melibond

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mine also have that, but less notable than yours, is so barely notable that never have bothered nor worried me, also i believe you have your monitor black levels too high, i tested rising my black levels as well and it also makes that "shadow thing" unecesary more notable, whats your "brightness" current value?
I did notice that, and yeah, if I lower my brightness it's less apparent. I actually upped the brightness when I took the pictures so that it was more apparent to the camera.
 

3dfan

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well if with proper black levels, you barely see that shadow (do this test in full screen, f11 in google chrome and adjust blacks (brightness) so that you can even barely see the first "1" square) , in my opinion there is no need to worry about.
 

Flybye

Limp Gawd
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👍 however keep in mind the sunix dpu3000 is a tricky adapter, as many users i have read from their experiences with this adapter, 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz have issues such the image left corner swaping to the other side of the screen as also happens with mine if i use that resolution and refresh rate as it is detected by default, again as i said, in my system with gtx 1080ti (asus rog-strix-gaming) that issue dissapeared when i set up 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz with the method i posted some post above, but i cannot guaranty this will work with the sunix dpu3000 or equivalent inside chip adapter for other users, also it seems the sunix behave diferrent depending on the graphics card brand being connected, as seem to happened with the amd radeon rx 5700 xt.
Unfortunately, the same happens with me with the Delock 87685 running 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz with a 980 Ti. :cry:

So we know this swapping of the sides is an issue with the adapter itself. I took a screenshot with Print Screen, and the pic looks perfectly normal. For those that haven't seen it, basically the right few inches of the screen are now on the left and the left few inches of the screen are now on the right as shown in attached pic. But it doesn't always happen. It shifts from looking normal to having this odd thing on the screen and back to normal. If you refresh the adapter (either by reconnecting it or changing refresh rates and back), the screen looks normal for a little while. Shifting or stretching of the screen would never correct this abnormality. Using the external USB power cable made no difference.

So I did a few resolution tests all using the GTF standard:

1920 x 1200 @ 85hz looks fine.
1920 x 1200 @ 90hz looks fine.
1920 x 1200 @ 95hz looks fine.

Ok so it must be a high resolution issue.

2304 x 1440 @ 81hz acts the same as at 80hz. The FW900 sometimes works at 2304 x 1440 @ 81hz and sometimes it doesn't. After working for an hour the FW decided it was time to be out of scan range lol.
2304 x 1440 @ 80hz we know is problematic.
2304 x 1440 @ 79hz not as consistent as 80hz, but much better. More about this below.
2304 x 1440 @ 78hz issue is almost gone. I never saw the flipping of the sides, but the screen would sometimes flicker as if loosing video signal for not even 1/4 of a second. I didn't time this, but it can go a while (10-15+ minutes) without flickering.
I didn't try 77hz since 78hz was almost stable.


So what I don't understand is: Why is this flipping of the sides not as significant in a DX11 game as it is in Windows 7?
@ 80hz the flipping would occur in a game but not as often as in Windows.
@ 79hz I played for 5+hours, and the screen never flipped the sides. But once in Windows, it did it once in a while as expected. It flipped in a game at first, but I alt-tabbed to the desktop and alt-tabbed back to the game, and it was fine for 5 hours.

I played with a variety of different settings while @ 80hz to try to fix it. Things such as scaling mode and performing scaling on GPU or display. The only custom resolution settings I played with was the polarity. I was reading online high end CRTs can typically be positive or negative. I didn't try changing around the other settings as I wouldn't know how they would or would not affect it.

So the typical option which always works is the GTF standard which has these settings:


---------------------------- Horizontal --- Vertical
Active Pixels -------------- 2304 -------- 1440
Front porch pixels --------184 ------------ 1
Sync width pixels ---------256 ------------ 3
Total pixels --------------- 3184 ----------1507
Polarity ----------------- Negative ----- Positive

The only thing I tried are swapping to Positive - Negative polarity. I left it as Positive and Positive which I "think" helps, but I am not sure.

I attached a screenshot for those wondering what we are talking about. You can see we can't simply stretch the screen or reposition it because the screen just wraps itself around. Even if I could stretch the screen in the center, I would loose the start button and clock areas of the taskbar.

So if anyone has any suggestions to try to make it work at 80hz, I am all eyes. 👓 But I feel this might simply be a limitation of the Delock itself and anything that uses the same chip in it. After all, the Delock's manual does say its max at 2560 x 1440 is 60hz. I should probably be lucky I'm able to even get a decent 79hz out of it.
 

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Strat_84

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Hey there, I hope you're well.

I let this slide for some time, but as you can see, on the 3 pictures I took, there is a shadow going to the right of anything distinct on screen.

Is this a deffect ? If so, does anyone know anything about it, and what could I do to fix it ?
Well, it's hard to be absolutely sure because your pictures aren't high resolution enough but if this is that I think this is, that could be caused by a bad quality adapter OR a bad VGA cable, I've seen that before. Try to plug the monitor to a graphic card with a native analog output and check if the issue is still there.
 
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Flybye Another interesting thing is that the issue almost completely goes away at very high resolutions. Like on my Lacie, at 2560x1920 and 2880x2160 I've never seen the side swap
 

melibond

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well if with proper black levels, you barely see that shadow (do this test in full screen, f11 in google chrome and adjust blacks (brightness) so that you can even barely see the first "1" square) , in my opinion there is no need to worry about.
It's still apparent even with brightness as low as barely or not visible. I can still see them clearly with my eyes on 0 brightness. I have tried different cables, and with or without adapters with a GTX 980 Ti through DVI-I to VGA, the connection doesn't seem to be the issue.
 

Flybye

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It's still apparent even with brightness as low as barely or not visible. I can still see them clearly with my eyes on 0 brightness. I have tried different cables, and with or without adapters with a GTX 980 Ti through DVI-I to VGA, the connection doesn't seem to be the issue.
I had this same problem when I was using a cheaper quality cable on another monitor. I switched to a thicker better quality cable with a ferrite at both ends, and the problem went away. Interestingly enough, the FW900's VGA Sony cable has a ferrite at each end. What is even more interesting is that my BNC cable doesn't have any ferrites on it at all, and I don't have that problem with it.
 

melibond

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I had this same problem when I was using a cheaper quality cable on another monitor. I switched to a thicker better quality cable with a ferrite at both ends, and the problem went away. Interestingly enough, the FW900's VGA Sony cable has a ferrite at each end. What is even more interesting is that my BNC cable doesn't have any ferrites on it at all, and I don't have that problem with it.
I have two VGA cables, and both have ferrites at the ends. One is also thicker, but nonetheless, neither fixed the issue. My BNC connector also doesn't have ferrites, but ye, no luck with that one either.

I'll buy a new VGA cable just in case but I doubt that it's the cable, since my cables aren't bad. Edit : Nevermind, I don't see the point in buying another one.
 

Flybye

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I have two VGA cables, and both have ferrites at the ends. One is also thicker, but nonetheless, neither fixed the issue. My BNC connector also doesn't have ferrites, but ye, no luck with that one either.

I'll buy a new VGA cable just in case but I doubt that it's the cable, since my cables aren't bad. Edit : Nevermind, I don't see the point in buying another one.
I don't see the point, either. You have essentially tried 3 cables. The only other suggestion I could think of is the Landing settings which does give a odd stretch to the image if not set right, but it is not extreme as it is in your pic.
 
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I have two VGA cables, and both have ferrites at the ends. One is also thicker, but nonetheless, neither fixed the issue. My BNC connector also doesn't have ferrites, but ye, no luck with that one either.

I'll buy a new VGA cable just in case but I doubt that it's the cable, since my cables aren't bad. Edit : Nevermind, I don't see the point in buying another one.
I'm thinking the typical WinDAS adjustment to G2 should fix you for the most part. But if you don't have the cable and colorimeter to do WinDAS yet, you can at least go into the custom color settings in the main menu and adjust "G CUT" way lower. On my P992 Trinitron, I had to set R CUT to 0, though it never looked quite as bad as yours. It's getting worse though, so I will need to do WinDAS soon.
 

melibond

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I don't see the point, either. You have essentially tried 3 cables. The only other suggestion I could think of is the Landing settings which does give a odd stretch to the image if not set right, but it is not extreme as it is in your pic.
I've fiddled with the landing as well. It doesn't seem to fix it. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

melibond

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I'm thinking the typical WinDAS adjustment to G2 should fix you for the most part. But if you don't have the cable and colorimeter to do WinDAS yet, you can at least go into the custom color settings in the main menu and adjust "G CUT" way lower. On my P992 Trinitron, I had to set R CUT to 0, though it never looked quite as bad as yours. It's getting worse though, so I will need to do WinDAS soon.
I've never used WinDAS before, so I don't really understand the adjustments.
 
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I've never used WinDAS before, so I don't really understand the adjustments.
CUT and GAIN, are adjustments you can do in the main menu, they have nothing to do with WinDAS. They're simply brightness and contrast for each color.

When you decide to go deeper and do the WinDAS adjustment, there is a guide by Spacediver here on Hardforum.
 
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