24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

melibond

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Jun 24, 2020
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CUT and GAIN, are adjustments you can do in the main menu, they have nothing to do with WinDAS. They're simply brightness and contrast for each color.

When you decide to go deeper and do the WinDAS adjustment, there is a guide by Spacediver here on Hardforum.

I didn't know what you meant by G2 and G-CUT. CUT isn't on my FW-900 menu, unless it's named something else there, like Center and Size. GAIN neither... unless you're talking about Brightness and Contrast levels.
 

melibond

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Jun 24, 2020
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CUT and GAIN, are adjustments you can do in the main menu, they have nothing to do with WinDAS. They're simply brightness and contrast for each color.

When you decide to go deeper and do the WinDAS adjustment, there is a guide by Spacediver here on Hardforum.

I tried finding hardware that would work with it to do a colour calibration, although old calibrators themselves are hard to find, and expensive. So WinDAS, unless it can do something on its own, unfortunately doesn't seem to be a solution for me.e
 

Enhanced Interrogator

[H]ard|Gawd
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Ok, first, you can quote multiple posts in one message so you don't have to make multiple posts

I didn't know what you meant by G2 and G-CUT. CUT isn't on my FW-900 menu, unless it's named something else there, like Center and Size. GAIN neither... unless you're talking about Brightness and Contrast levels.

It's in the "color" menu. At least it is on my P992. It's where you can select color temperatures like 6500k and 9300k. There should be a "custom" option or "user" option, something like that.

I tried finding hardware that would work with it to do a colour calibration, although old calibrators themselves are hard to find, and expensive. So WinDAS, unless it can do something on its own, unfortunately doesn't seem to be a solution for me.e

You just need a colorimeter, and a COM>TTL or USB>TTL cable, which are very cheap. Please, read the WinDAS thread, if you own a FW900 (or any Trinitron) you're going to have to learn how to do it.
 

3dfan

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Flybye now that you created 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz with gtf standard custom res from nvidia control panel, did you check if also 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz or 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz is not displayed in CRU, and CRU detects your monitor as with its proper brand name? on mine if i those "rules" are followed, the resolution refresh combo does not fail.
 

Flybye

Limp Gawd
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Flybye now that you created 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz with gtf standard custom res from nvidia control panel, did you check if also 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz or 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz is not displayed in CRU, and CRU detects your monitor as with its proper brand name? on mine if i those "rules" are followed, the resolution refresh combo does not fail.
CRU does say 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz

GDM-FW900 is displayed in CRU only because I have a manual driver for it. I actually stopped using that driver years ago when I started creating custom resolutions in the nvidia control panel. The only reason I installed it last week was to see if it would make a difference with the Delock.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
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Messages
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make a backup of cru with export button, then delete that 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz from cru, reboot pc, check again there is no 2304 x 1440 @ 80h or 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz on cru and use 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz created from nvidia control panel , when selecting 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz and pressing the osd monitor button, there should listed some info like 120.5hkz / 80hz and nothing more, 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz" should NOT be displayed there in that osd info, this way works for me with no issues
 
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Hike

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Apr 1, 2020
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I just found out that the A board of my faulty HP A7217A (FW900) monitor is almost identical to the A board of Dell P1110. Switching the boards didn't solve my problem because the fault seems to be somewhere else, but it's a fact that the P1110 A board is compatible with FW900. I thought this information might be helpful to somebody else. Sorry if it's old news.
I also found the SONY G500 (DELLp1110, Sun GDM 5410) A board to be fully compatible with the FW900.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
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So what I don't understand is: Why is this flipping of the sides not as significant in a DX11 game as it is in Windows 7?

i believe thats probably because windows detects and use for desktop the resolution and refresh detected by default and listed in cru, which is the one that trend to have issues, not the one created by nvidia control panel, which is the one game most likely is using.

when i create the resolution and refresh and ensure the same is not listed in cru, (either it ends in 79.999hz or 80hz) windows and games are forced to use only the one created in nvidia control panel since thats is the only one available.

however i have never tested the method i have mentioned previously in windows 7, so not certain if it also works there
 

melibond

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Ok, first, you can quote multiple posts in one message so you don't have to make multiple posts



It's in the "color" menu. At least it is on my P992. It's where you can select color temperatures like 6500k and 9300k. There should be a "custom" option or "user" option, something like that.



You just need a colorimeter, and a COM>TTL or USB>TTL cable, which are very cheap. Please, read the WinDAS thread, if you own a FW900 (or any Trinitron) you're going to have to learn how to do it.

I have an Expert tab which lets me change the RGB and RGB Bias, and also can change the Temperature manually on the Easy tab... although, none of the things you described unfortunately.

Will any colorimeter do ? Because, I thought only old ones worked for CRT.

Is this a USB to TTL ?

Could you please redirect me to that WinDAS post again? I can't find you reply with the link.

Also, I can't find WinDAS anywhere to download... can it only be found as a CD ? Google doesn't show me anything even if I just type in WinDAS.
 

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melibond

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melibond: answers to the very same quote 4 times with a different message. This is a troll right ? :ROFLMAO:

It's not a troll, I just forgot to add other questions and say other things I had to say, and forgot that I could edit my original post.

Edit: there, I deleted the extra ones and compiled them together on the first post. Please don't jump into conclusions so quickly.
 
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3dfan

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Jun 2, 2016
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Also, I can't find WinDAS anywhere to download... can it only be found as a CD ? Google doesn't show me anything even if I just type in WinDAS.

i think the one linked for download from mediafire in the descrption in this video is, and the adapter as for the screenshot, yes, it is a USB to TTL adapter

 
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melibond

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Jun 24, 2020
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i think the one linked for download from mediafire in the descrption in this video is, and the adapter as for the screenshot, yes, it is a USB to TTL adapter


Thanks a lot. Looks like I'll have to install windows XP to do the calibration... that's too much work for me to be honest. Although, I appreciate the guidance I received from this forum. If I ever find the patience I need, I'll start working at it.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

[H]ard|Gawd
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Thanks a lot. Looks like I'll have to install windows XP to do the calibration... that's too much work for me to be honest. Although, I appreciate the guidance I received from this forum. If I ever find the patience I need, I'll start working at it.

CRT's take work. Even the newest CRT's are 15 years old. So if you're not willing to do routine maintenance, you should sell the monitor to someone who will
 

melibond

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i think the one linked for download from mediafire in the descrption in this video is, and the adapter as for the screenshot, yes, it is a USB to TTL adapter

[/QUO
CRT's take work. Even the newest CRT's are 15 years old. So if you're not willing to do routine maintenance, you should sell the monitor to someone who will

I'm aware. And no, just because I'm lazy to fix something that doesn't bother me to the point of not being able to enjoy the monitor doesn't mean that I don't deserve it. I'm willing to do maintenance, just not WinDAS.
 

androsforever

Weaksauce
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Nov 23, 2013
Messages
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A little update on my situation, I plugged in my FW900 and it runs fantastic, the guy who previously had it before me did a great job in color calibration as well, I can see he finely tuned the settings under the color menu for 6500k. Now I went and bought this https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as I didn't want to spend a lot right away and it would take a long time for the delock to get to me. When I first hooked it up to my PC I got a 1920x1200 rez at 85hz immediately and while at that resolution if the color is set to RGB under the nvidia control panel then green lines start appearing. Changing the color to YCBCR 444 fixed this and the color is perfect. Played some Rainbow Six siege and wow everything is so much clearer, panning through rooms you notice every detail that previously was blurred. Also the contrast is great with dark blacks, obviously not as black as oleds but much better than my TN monitor.
The problem is when I go to higher refresh rates like 96hz the only option I get is RGB under the nvidia control panel. Is this a converter limitation?
Now the next step is to fine tune the focus to make the text sharpness perfect; although it's already very decent I read at the beginning of this thread that the controls can be accessed without taking apart the cover.
 

pranza

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Oct 8, 2019
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1
Hi guys!
What's the difference between ANX6212 and ANX9847? The latter can be found in Delock 62967 adapter, seems to work well and able to do 1600x1200@100Hz no problem...
Delock 62967 gives nicer picture than AMD W5000 card that i think was the last to have VGA out - had to downgrade it to V7800 for better picture... and always found Nvidia based cards to give inferior analog since Geforce times (Riva TNT/TNT2 seemed fine). Compared to Firepro 3D V7800 Delock 62967 is brighter, more vibrant, perhaps even warmer in a positive way but in the longer run annoying and I couldn't get without some singnal ringing (repeating shadows to the right of contrasty places)... might be due to additional HD15-DVI-A adapter i had to put in between OR overvoltage (just guessing - that would explain brighter picture). I stripped it off to bare PCB now and once i get my hands on female DP port, i'd solder it on and see what comes if i tuck it straight up the monitor's ass (can't do it right now as the attached Delock's DP male cable is so short and the thing doesn't work if I join it to another DP cable - perhaps too may bad connection points, and cheap enough cable as some of you already noted)...
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
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Jun 2, 2016
Messages
167
androsforever, its normal on the fw900 to be limited to 1920x1200 96hz, even without using and external digital to analog converter, going vertical refresh higher than that at that resolution will pass the horizontal refresh limit of the monitor going out of range
as for the text sharpness. i would recommend you if posible, before messing with internal parts of the monitor for focus, to ensure your new adapter is not cause of it and test the monitor first with a video card with analog output or from integrated motherboard analog ports, i suggest this because i have seen on cheap digital to analog adapters, the text trend to gets blurrier or fuzzier when going near adapter limits, which usually have lower lmiits than native analog outputs,
if you said at 1920x1200 96hz text is very decent, that adapter seems to be a cheap good choice to enter on the list of recommended decent quality adapter for crts on modern cards, thank for sharing your experience with it. ;)

pranza hi, thanks for your report, search for ANX6212 and ANX9847 in this thread, there is some info about those in past pages
 
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Strat_84

Limp Gawd
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Jul 16, 2016
Messages
422
Now the next step is to fine tune the focus to make the text sharpness perfect; although it's already very decent I read at the beginning of this thread that the controls can be accessed without taking apart the cover.
Don't do that, you'll only make things worse and then it'll be a real pain in the ass to find back the exact original position of the knobs. According to what I could see on the numerous screens I had, the focus was always perfectly set when the screen was assembled and it doesn't drift. The only cases where the display may become somewhat blurry with a trinitron are:
1°) bad VGA adapter/ analog output/VGA cable
2°) excessive brightness (some areas shift slightly out of focus past let's say 60-70 in contrast)
3°) excessive G2 setting (with others symptoms being the inability to obtain true dark colors even with brightness set to the minimum)
 

XoR_

[H]ard|Gawd
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I let this slide for some time, but as you can see, on the 3 pictures I took, there is a shadow going to the right of anything distinct on screen.
Is this a deffect ? If so, does anyone know anything about it, and what could I do to fix it ?
I also have this on my FW900 also.
It seems less severe and I do not really notice it when I use it.

Because OSD makes it visible I assume there is nothing that could be possibly done without opening up monitor.
 

melibond

n00b
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
52
I also have this on my FW900 also.
It seems less severe and I do not really notice it when I use it.

Because OSD makes it visible I assume there is nothing that could be possibly done without opening up monitor.

Thanks for letting me know man :). I did up the brightness beyond what I usually use, so it was more apparent than it is when I use it (I think that it was 34 on the pictures, while I use anywhere between 15-22 from day to night).

I do noitce it if I'm looking for it even at 15-22 brightness, although, during gameplay, or watching a video, I tend to forget about it and it goes unnoticed. So either way, I'm pretty happy with what I got.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
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167
yes, just relax, i took a couple of pictures of mine just you see during monitor warmup, and after, as you can see, that "shadow" looks as ugly as in your pictures during warmp up or with black levels too high, (high levels serious crt users would not use!! :wacky:) but when monitor is warmedup with proper set black levels, is really hard to be noticed, so it is in games ;)
 

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3dfan

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yes, i have been using 60hz for desktop usage and for many games on crts for about 20 years, i like to use higher fequency on some games that can keep constant framerate with refresh rate, and allow mouse movements for character camera view (third of first person) which mouse movements feel smoother and less stroboscopic effect, which makes the mouse movements to feel even more natural life like. but as for flicker, never been an issue for me even at 60hz (in fact, i play some few mame games at 55hz, no issues with flicker on those as well for me).
 

Flybye

Limp Gawd
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make a backup of cru with export button, then delete that 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz from cru, reboot pc, check again there is no 2304 x 1440 @ 80h or 2304 x 1440 @ 79.999hz on cru and use 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz created from nvidia control panel , when selecting 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz and pressing the osd monitor button, there should listed some info like 120.5hkz / 80hz and nothing more, 2304 x 1440 @ 80hz" should NOT be displayed there in that osd info, this way works for me with no issues


You are right! CRU was showing as 79.999hz.
Here is the Nvidia "GTF" option timing
---------------------------- Horizontal --- Vertical
Active Pixels -------------- 2304 -------- 1440
Front porch pixels --------184 ------------ 1
Sync width pixels ---------256 ------------ 3
Total pixels --------------- 3184 ----------1507
Polarity ----------------- Negative ----- Positive


CRU's "Automatic CRT Standard" Timing
---------------------------- Horizontal --- Vertical
Active Pixels -------------- 2304 -------- 1440
Front porch pixels --------184 ------------ 3
Sync width pixels ---------248 ------------ 6
Total pixels --------------- 3168 ----------1510
Polarity ----------------- Negative ----- Positive

But.....

With your suggestion, I first looked at CRU and manually set the Nvidia timings. Hz in CRU then shows as 80.001 Hz. Windows was stable, and I played a game last night with no issues for about 3 hours.

I turned my pc on this morning, and the screen issue is back. I flipped between 79 and 80hz several times, and now the screen no longer has issues in windows.

Nvidia's "CVT" option timing is exactly the same as CRU's Automatic CRT Standard settings. I had tried this Nvidia setting before chiming in this thread. It did not make a "large" difference. It was only this morning that I noticed Nvidia's CVT option is the same as the CRT option in CRU. When I first used CRU, I saw the 79.999 since I had been currently using Nvidia's GTF option.

It is a VERY odd issue that is sometimes hard to duplicate. I've had the PC on for about 30 minutes now, still at 80Hz, and I have not seen the issue for about 10 minutes in windows.

I feel that either:
The Delock needs to flick between 79 to 80Hz a few times for 80 to become stable. (Does this even make any sense?)
OR
The Delock needs to warm up to be stable at 80Hz. :ROFLMAO:
Like an old car that needs to warm up before it runs fine lolz.
 
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3dfan

Limp Gawd
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glad you are finding your way to make your delock to work better for you, in my case i dont feel it needs warmup, it works from the begining without issues as long as the "rules" and method is followed, at least in my case. that chip inside those adapters (sunix, delock, etc) behaviour is rather a mistery, not even sunix employes themselfes seem to know about its limits, issues, and real capabilities when sometime i wrote to them asking, and seems very sensitive to the timings, graphics card brand being used with it.

sometime i tried to replicated these timings used from nvidia control custom res with gtf in cru, but dapter kept having issues, only way was to eliminate or not using refresh -resolutions being in cru, my adapter chip simply seems to hate cru, i was tempted to write to toastyx (owner of cru) about its weird behavior with resolutions and refreshes specialy created in cru, but by searching, he has already been asked about the sunix dpu3000 and answerd he does not have an adapter to test.

sometimes my sunix becomes too stubborn to detect my monitor properly when i turn on the computer after a while of being off, forcing me to turn off, reconect and retry. maybe that may explain why in your case in the morning when turing your pc on, issues are present again, in my case, it is critical for the monitor to be detected as it is by the sunix.

as for installing the monitor driver to "force" the adapter to always detect the monitor propelry with its brand, it did not work in my case, i realized than the only thing that changes when the monitor is not properly detected but with drivers installed is its name, so "gdm-fw900" is always shown in cru, but issues appear, so i decide not to install monitor driver to not to be confused, also another way i realize to check if the monitor is detected properly is when by checking in nvidia control panel "change resolution" area, there should be something like "sony digital display" below monitor picture, instead of someting like "synaptics inc"
 
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Flybye

Limp Gawd
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... "synaptics inc"
This has been my biggest curiosity. Is the chip actually made by www.synaptics.com? Their site shows they do make integrated controllers for displays. They do not have any drivers on their site which makes sense since they probably sell their base products to companies for companies to then modify as needed and make drivers if necessary.

I spent some good time first looking for a synaptic Windows driver when I first started this journey. I found nothing. I sometimes really wonder if a Synaptics driver is what we really need to make this little box work even better. I have been even tempted to email Synaptics about it. I mean who knows. They may have some sort of driver for it or even a utility to tap into the chip to make changes.

I currently have a 980 Ti which has a DisplayPort 1.2. I just ordered a 2070 Super which has a DisplayPort 1.4 just like your 1080 Ti. It will be interesting to see if that makes any difference.
 

Enhanced Interrogator

[H]ard|Gawd
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If you're getting a RTX 2070, you might be better off running with the Vention usb-c adapter https://www.newegg.com/vention-cgkha/p/2VF-006Y-00003 (I think that's the one John Linneman mentions in his FW 900 video on Digital Foundry)

Reports are that it can hit very high pixel clocks, and I haven't heard complaints like I have with the Sunix, though less people have usb-c as an option.

As far as contacting Synaptics, I don't know if it's much use. I feel like isntead of making a new driver or new firmware, they'd be more likely to just change the listed specification on the VGA output to "maximum 1600x1200" or something.
 

Flybye

Limp Gawd
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If you're getting a RTX 2070, you might be better off running with the Vention usb-c adapter https://www.newegg.com/vention-cgkha/p/2VF-006Y-00003 (I think that's the one John Linneman mentions in his FW 900 video on Digital Foundry)

Reports are that it can hit very high pixel clocks, and I haven't heard complaints like I have with the Sunix, though less people have usb-c as an option.

As far as contacting Synaptics, I don't know if it's much use. I feel like isntead of making a new driver or new firmware, they'd be more likely to just change the listed specification on the VGA output to "maximum 1600x1200" or something.
I didn’t even realize they come with a usb-c connector. I just looked at a pic of the rear plate, and there it is! That adapter you mentioned only states 1920x1080, but it may support higher like how the Sunix/Delock do. I’ll read up on what resolutions people can get these type up to. Ty
 

Derupter

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I'm interested though in the Vention USB C to VGA adapters that use the Lontium chip but they're impossible to get outside Aliexpress (which has only the older one with the LT8711X-B). I ordered one...should arrive sometime in June...:(

Please let us know how it goes when it arrives.

I've finally dealt with one of my Delock 62967 adapters. I can't believe it. It appears the issue with them may not be cable/plug related, but maybe SOFTWARE. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Explanations:
I grabbed one adapter, removed the cable, replaced it with half of a Startech DISPL1M (cable with 28 AWG wires, well shielded, the DP port appears to be properly sized, with a lock, and the DP port can be dismantled, it's not molted).
That was a major pain in the ass to do it properly, tweezers mandatory (etienne51's schematics were very helpful BTW, I double checked them). But I did it, checked everything for continuity and shorts, soaked the wire ends in hot glue, put back a layer of insulating tape on the PCB, then a layer of copper tape, one solder dot between the copper tape and the VGA port's structure, closed everything. Well, I'm proud of it, it's like a new one, but without the shit cable and DP port. :cigar:

View attachment 237864

View attachment 237865

View attachment 237866

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View attachment 237868

Then I tested the adapter on a new computer I finished building about 6 months ago. It's a bit temperamental as I had some BSODs when touching some display properties in Windows (like setting the adapter as the only display if there are several displays connected). Not confirming a resolution switch within 15 seconds or cancelling it results in the screen blinking and clicking forever like with the original adapter did, AND it seems like the system "remembers" that because if that kind of issue happens, it will keep happening whatever you do, you need to delete the display in CRU and then set it up again without doing the wrong thing again.
But appart from that, it works well, this one sustains a pixel clock between 331 and 335 MHz. Radeon settings confirm HBR2 links with 8 bpc color depth.

I then wanted to try it on my older computer. The "fixed" adapter behaves exactly as the original ones, the screen blinks and clicks forever as soon as you try to set a resolution different from the "standard" ones, max 1600x1200@60hz ... :facepalm:
Strange ... I then tried plugging an original adapter on the new computer, the DP plug is a bit lax but IT WORKS exactly the same way as the "fixed" adapter does ! :woot: :facepalm: :facepalm:

- Both computers run on Windows 7 64bits SP1 (except the newer one was updated with most of the newer Microsoft updates, minus the numerous malware/spyware ones)
- Both have similar graphic cards (Sapphire R9 380X in the newer one, Sapphire R9 380 in the older one, but the initial tests were done months ago with the 380X on the older one and that didn't work)
- Both use the same graphic drivers (18.12.3)

WTF ?! :eek:

Very strange indeed, did you understand what happened?
A different position of the new computer with the 380x?
Some strange interference not present in the new computer?
Luck?

I seem to understand that a new device has been found during the past few months. It's a USB Type C adapter from the brand Vention. It doesn't seem like a lot of people have tried it yet though. I ordered one, thinking it was shipped from the US, but it came from China directly, so I have no idea when I'm gonna get it.
There are a few different versions. Some can apparently go way higher than the FW900 bandwidth and still work just fine, and others are a bit more limited. I don't know which version I got from Amazon, I will find out when I get it and let you guys know.

Like Petrasescu_Lucian please let us know when you will test it.

Vention appears to have replaced some of its adapters with new models and I don't know if the old ones are still in production, but on their website they are gone.

Vention TFAHB USB-C to HDMI and VGA with Lontium LT8712X
This looks like a new version of the CMFHB, but is strange because the CMFHB is fairly a new model never appeared on the EU or US market.
They added a 5 Gbps USB port so only two lanes are connected to the LT8712X thus reducing the max pixel clock from 720 to 360 MHz.
For the same reason it can't handle 4K at 60 Hz on HDMI like the CMFHB, but only 30 Hz

Vention TDBHB USB-C to VGA with Lontium LT8711V
This seems to replace the CGMHA but they changed the chipset which was the LT8711X-B, the LT8711V has only two lanes so max clock is 360 MHz vs 720 of the LT8711X-B

These new models are worse than the previous ones, i hope they are not a substitute for the old ones.

I made a summary for the new users looking for digital to analog adapters.

Adapters capable or potentially able to go over 360 MHz pixel clock:

With Synaptics VMM2322 chipset (DP to VGA)
ICY BOX IB-SPL1031 (tested)
Delock 87685 (tested)
Sunix DPU3000 (tested)
Problems with some resolutions at specific refresh rates with all the three models,but it handles very high pixel clock, up to 550 MHz

With Lontium chipset (USB-C to VGA or to HDMI 2.0 and VGA maybe with 10 bit DAC)
Vention CGMHA with LT8711X-B (not tested)
Vention CMFHB with LT 8712X (not tested)
Unitek V1126A with LT8712EXC (not tested)

With ITE IT6564 chipset (DP to HDMI 2.0 and VGA)
Startech DP2VGAHD20 (tested by some users up to 375 MHz)
Probably the best Displayport to VGA adapter considering performance and price

Adapters capable or potentially able to go over 180 and up to 360MHz pixel clock:

USB-C to VGA
Delock 62994 with Realtek RTD2169U (not tested)
Delock 62796 with ANX9847 (not tested)
Plugable USBC-VGA with ANX9847 (tested up to 330-335 MHz no issue)
Sunix C2VC7A0 with ANX9847 (not tested)
Delock 63923 with Chrontel CH7212 (not tested)
Delock 63924-63925 with ITE IT6562 (not tested 10 bit DAC)

DP to VGA
Delock 62967 with ANX9847 (tested)
With some cards it can't handle HBR2 mode so no more than 180 MHz, changing the cable should solve the problem, when it works is perfect up to 340-350 MHz with any resolution and refresh rate.

HDMI to HDMI and VGA
Vention AFVHB with LT8612SX (not tested)

Cheap adapters from Amazon (HDMI to VGA)
Benfei and Rankie HDMI to VGA, we don't know the model code and the chipset, they should handle up to 330 MHz but it is necessary to set the output to YCBCR 444 and this can cause problems to some users because sometimes and with some drivers that option is not present.
 
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Flybye

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
289
Is there a google doc with a list of the digital to analog converters like what Derupter just posted, and associated resolutions people here have mentioned they work with?
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
422
Very strange indeed, did you understand what happened?
A different position of the new computer with the 380x?
Some strange interference not present in the new computer?
Luck?
So far the only thing I can think about is a software interference. It could be some Microsoft updates after SP1 improving something, or another software messing with the Radeon drivers that hadn't been installed on the new computer.

I suppose I'll know a bit more about this the day I'll change for a newer graphic card with newer drivers. ;)
 

Derupter

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
207
Thanks Derupter, between the icybox at 45€ and the delock at 105€ is it a safe bet to go with the icybox for similar performance?

Yes even considering that they are the same thing, the only differences apart from the box and the logo are that the Delock has two connection cables while the ICY BOX only one (MiniDP to MiniDP) plus the USB cable for power.
So if your card doesn't have the MiniDP output you need a DP to MiniDP cable, you can try with an adapter if you have it but I don't recommend it

Is there a google doc with a list of the digital to analog converters like what Derupter just posted, and associated resolutions people here have mentioned they work with?

I don't think so, for now the only adapters that have problems with specific resolutions are those based on the Synaptics chipset, that's why we use the max pixel clock as a parameter.
Most adapters capable to go up to 360 MHz should be able to reach at least 320-330 MHz, knowing this limit you can use any resolution that does not exceed it.
For example with 330 MHz you can do:
1600x1200 116 Hz 4:3 (if you find a monitor capable of that monstrous horizontal frequency)
2048x1536 73 Hz 4:3
1920x1200 96 Hz 16:10
2048x1280 85 Hz 16:10
2144x1206 88 Hz 16:9
2496x1560 60 Hz 16:10
And so on, you can create what you want without going over the clock limit.
 
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Flybye

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
289
Would it help if we created one?

All of you have great info. I can envision a google spreadsheet with the names of adapters, tested resolutions beyond their capacity, resolutions that worked, resolutions that are problematic, chip set names, etc.
 

Derupter

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
207
Would it help if we created one?

All of you have great info. I can envision a google spreadsheet with the names of adapters, tested resolutions beyond their capacity, resolutions that worked, resolutions that are problematic, chip set names, etc.

Yea you can do that, but i don't know how much can help considering that most of the adapters on that list have not been tested and users don't want to buy untested things.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
167
I didn’t even realize they come with a usb-c connector. I just looked at a pic of the rear plate, and there it is! That adapter you mentioned only states 1920x1080, but it may support higher like how the Sunix/Delock do. I’ll read up on what resolutions people can get these type up to. Ty

unfortunately those specifications about adapters even when are published from the original company are too limited and not 100% trustable, surely those companies do not care about their devices capablitied on crt monitors, and i bet they dont even test their devices on crts, just on regular lcds limited to vga inputs.
the industry does not want people to keep using old, obsolete non profitable for them crt monitors, even if those are still better than vast mayority if not all of modern gaming monitors from a picture quality -performance - latency - motion quality - flexibility, etc perspective, at least for me, so we crt users are alone, and are forced to trial and error and to rely on regular users members in forums about those adapters capabilities, specially in this forum with many members with passion and tech knowledge about crts.

so its because of many users here reporting their experences and research, why we a have a clue of good adapters to use with our crt monitors, Derupter is one of those users that have done many times a deep helpfull research and compilation of good digital to analog adapters among so many crappy lower quality adapters on the market. so thanks to users like him, i decided to get the sunix dpu3000 being aware of its issues and now that i have been learning to workaround its flaws, i couldnt be happier, and my afraid that i would be forced to rather downgrade to a "modern" gaming monitor if i wanted to use a modern graphics card is gone.
keep in mind i am not pretending to recommend the dpu3000 to anyone, just to share my experiences with it and so, thank forum members which helpful reseach was very helpfull to me. something which was not with sunix company itself when asking them about their product capabities.

if i were you, and you are not happy with your delock and you are in a country where you can return a product due to insatisfaction, i would try to get that suggested Vention adapter and test by yourself on your rtx 2070 super, so you see if it suits your needs better so you can return your delock, i know this is not the best way to buy things but the industry is not leaving us better options.
 
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Flybye

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
289
Yea you can do that, but i don't know how much can help considering that most of the adapters on that list have not been tested and users don't want to buy untested things.
I will whip up something in the next day or so. For months I had bounced around reading different adapters and scrolling through this thread. My biggest example was taking over a year of on and off searching for a Sunix an Delock to never catch one in time that it was available. I feel I got lucky in finding one new in the box off eBay and straight from Germany. My hopes is that others will be able to see the converter chart, look at resolutions people have tested them at, and allow the chart to be able to assist them in deciding the best available adapter for their use.


....if i were you, and you are not happy with your delock and you are in a country where you can return a product due to insatisfaction, i would try to get that suggested Vention adapter and test by yourself on your rtx 2070 super, so you see if it suits your needs better so you can return your delock, i know this is not the best way to buy things but the industry is not leaving us better options.
I can not be unhappy with a product I am pushing beyond it's rated capabilities :D. It is rated on the VGA port 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz, and here I am trying to push it at 2304 x 1440 @ 80 Hz. I am happy it can at least do 2304 x 1440!

I may try one of the other adapters in the future since I am very curious if using the USB-C would even make a difference for whatever odd reason.
 

jei

n00b
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
14
I guess this is not directly related to the FW900, so hopefully it can still be asked here.

Has anyone with the Iiyama Vision Master Pro 514 (and maybe even 454) tried going above the 200hz vertical cap with displayport adapters? I have found multiple people saying they have reached above 200hz when lowering the resolution, but I believe they are all using old GPUs... not 100% sure though.
 
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