24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

cdoublejj

Limp Gawd
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i'm not even using the DPU i'm straight in to my video card, i don't even get CRT timings with power strip, in fact power strip only shows my second monitor, it's as if this version of power strip has the resolution features stripped out. i can't run past 60hz anymore, ever since some major windows 10 update. either the timings are weird now or the monitor has crapped out. Windows 10 major updates love to jack up drivers and settings.
 
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i'm not even using the DPU i'm straight in to my video card, i don't even get CRT timings with power strip, in fact power strip only shows my second monitor, it's as if this version of power strip has the resolution features stripped out. i can't run past 60hz anymore, ever since some major windows 10 update. either the timings are weird now or the monitor has crapped out. Windows 10 major updates love to jack up drivers and settings.
Why are you using Power Strip? Custom Resolution Utility is the new standard, it's way easier to set up and is still getting updates.

Sometimes I can only get the resolution to work "within" another resolution and it will only display within the bounds of that one no matter what I try to change....(snip)....Is there a way to rectify this in CRU?
I think the best way is go into Windows' advanced display settings and choosing the resolution and refresh rate manually. On Nvidia you can also do it through the control panel. I don't think AMD has a way to do this through the driver anymore though, only throw Windows. There are probably some 3rd party programs that can make it a quicker process. One program I know of if RefreshLock, though it's still tedious if you use multiple refresh rates for one resolution.
 

cdoublejj

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Why are you using Power Strip? Custom Resolution Utility is the new standard, it's way easier to set up and is still getting updates.



I think the best way is go into Windows' advanced display settings and choosing the resolution and refresh rate manually. On Nvidia you can also do it through the control panel. I don't think AMD has a way to do this through the driver anymore though, only throw Windows. There are probably some 3rd party programs that can make it a quicker process. One program I know of if RefreshLock, though it's still tedious if you use multiple refresh rates for one resolution.
I had the PS menus memorized, CRU is what i used when i i the jiggle wiggle vision. i'll try and force my self to sit down with it. The Nvidia DEFINITELY does not hold your with the timings and also gave my squiggle vision.

I miss the Days when you could just install a .inf file or share a profile file something instead of manually setting timings for god knows what.
 

3dfan

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SUNIX DPU3000 USERS!!!

lurking the crt collective facebook group, found something that can be very important and the key of why every user seem to have some type of issues with the sunix dpu3000, and it seems related of the way the dpu3000 is being powered, so a good quality non usb pc based powersupply adapter can be the anwser, as these users from the group claim no to have any issues at all powering their dpu3000 with a quality 2.1 amp range usb adaptor:

important.jpg
 
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Very intersting. I'll be trying that soon. I get some waviness in 1920x1440p@75hz.

I have my doubts that this will fix the issue where the left and right margins of the screen randomly swap on certain very high resolutions. I've only seen it happen above 2048x1536, and it seems more like a bug in the Synaptics chip than an issue with power. Weirdly, the issue seems to happen more frequently the closer you get 2048x1536 without going below. So for example I think I saw it quite a bit when I created a 2160x1620 resolution. But running 2560x1920 for Battlefield 1, I'm not sure if I ever saw it.
 

Derupter

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Sunix DPU3000 Power Consumption 1.45W (don't know if max or typical)
Displayport 3.3V 500mA (1.65W Max)
Classic USB 2.0 power 5V 500mA (2.5W)
USB 3.0 power 5V 900mA (4.5W)
The adapter works with only the displayport cable (the included one) so the chip is probably powered by the 3.3V line,not sure without the datasheet but certainly it doesn't work directly with the 5V line of the additional USB power.
I don't think it consumes more than what is supplied by a simple USB port,otherwise the chip temperature would be prohibitive.
Anyway if someone wants to try,connect the USB cable to a USB 3.0 port and see if anything changes,or try with a Y-USB cable to double the power.
I don't think there is a digital communication between the adapter and the USB host,but you can try to see in device manager how much power is requested to the USB Hub.
 
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SUNIX DPU3000 USERS!!!

lurking the crt collective facebook group, found something that can be very important and the key of why every user seem to have some type of issues with the sunix dpu3000, and it seems related of the way the dpu3000 is being powered, so a good quality non usb pc based powersupply adapter can be the anwser, as these users from the group claim no to have any issues at all powering their dpu3000 with a quality 2.1 amp range usb adaptor:

View attachment 164979
No. This is incorrect. The issues I presented in earlier posts once you reach 2048x1536 are independent of the way you power the splitter. It's either the chip (most likely) or the firmware.
Has anyone tried the Delock 87685? It's the Sunix equivalent.
 

jka

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I am sure it has been mentioned here already, but here it is again for posterity:

If you experience waviness/image swapping with the Sunix adapter, do something that will trigger a resolution switch. Sometimes that will fix it after first try, sometimes after 10th try, but it always fixes it (at least for a little while).

Examples on how to trigger resolution switch:

A) Change in-game resolution back and forth

B) ALT+TAB from game to WIndows and back (works only if the resolutions are different or if your game is in exclusive fullscreen mode only)

C) Use the "restart" exe program that is bundled with CRU

etc.

I would still buy this adapter again, the above issues are a little annoying when they happen but I can live with them no probs. Once (if) a superior adapter is released, I would of course get the better one.
 
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I ran off a fast charger yesterday during a long Apex Legends session, and I still got the wavy-pixel issue. It seemed like it was less frequent, but that was probably down to luck
 

3dfan

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thats correct, jka i remember those temporal fixes being mentioned some pages back, but those people from the facebook group seem no to have any issues at all after using that power adapter, at least is the message i perceive from them.


I ran off a fast charger yesterday during a long Apex Legends session, and I still got the wavy-pixel issue. It seemed like it was less frequent, but that was probably down to luck
thanks for sharing, sad then there is no real permament fix yet then.
before the facebook group post, i emailed sunix some days ago asking them about the posibility of a fix for those issues, their answer: "let us study that a bit, and not sure if it is an issue or something that we can fix easily by firmware. I will get back to you later on that."

talking about sunix dpu3000, the device seems to be oficially available again in amazon for those interested: https://www.amazon.com/Sunix-Displa...d=1559694456&s=gateway&sr=8-1#customerReviews at the moment of posting this, 4 are left in stock.
 

cdoublejj

Limp Gawd
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Apr 12, 2013
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412
hhhmm even did the nvidia patch even though i'm on VGA, i'll try whole other machine and OS to see if it's the CRT, it would be one thing if i was even using an adapter.
 
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but those people from the facebook group seem no to have any issues at all after using that power adapter,
That's only two people, and they may not mess with things like CRU as much as other users do. Like 1920x1440@75hz, the mode I see the problem in most frequently, wasn't available until I added it in CRU.

But I am curious to see other people try it. Maybe my charger wasn't switching into high-amps mode or something. I don't know how fast chargers work.
 

christpunchers

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489
Has there been a better adapter than the Sunix DPU3000? Haven’t kept up with this thread?

Also, in my experience, the adapter loves even numbers for refresh rates. I’d get wavy lines occasionally and blank screen where I’d be required to restart and reconnect the adapter. This was when I was running it at 85hz prime mode for the FW900. Once I used 84hz all problems went away. I’m using an original Apple iPhone charger as well to power the adapter btw. I don’t think it matters much though.
 
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Has there been a better adapter than the Sunix DPU3000? Haven’t kept up with this thread?
Last year HD Fury confirmed they're still developing an HD Fury 5, but that's literally all they had to say about it: that it's still being developed. Of course the longer they wait, the smaller the potential customer base gets.

Well, unless they also make it work for 15kHz standard def CRTs, in which case it could have a larger number of customers in the retro-games community.
 

Kxtr73

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Has anyone tried the Delock 87685? It's the Sunix equivalent.
They are advertising it as 4k2K at 30 HZ only on Displayport, while Sunix is telling about his DPU 3000:
4096 x 2160 60 Hz in single monitor setup.

I have similar one from Logilink CV0109 with the same specs at least on paper with Delock, which costed me 19 USD, and his max working resolution was only 1280x1024 85 Hz with CRT monitor. 3840x2160 30 Hz pixel clock is 297 Mhz in digital mode , so it should at least work at 1600x1200 100 Hz (270 Mhz) but it isn't (tested with NVIDIA card). I forced it to 1600x1200 (but real resolution reported by monitor was still 1280x1024 ...).

Becouse that I use GTX 970 for now, while Sunix is still unavaiable. Or wait for a price drop for cards with USB-C output and use cheap Sunix C2VC7A0 which is 7 USD on Amazon or ex. Plugable which was reported on this forum as: 330-335 MHz

From leaflet of Delock 87685:
VGA resolution up to: 1920x1200 60 Hz

Somebody however sayed, it's working with higher res/refresh with some adjustements: restricting colour space to 4.2.2 as I remember. But in Nvidia panel I can't do that with my Logilink adapter. There is no such option. I should probably add this in CRU: CEA-861 extended block/video capability/selectable RGB and YCC range and try again. (Tried - not working with latest Nvidia drivers for GTX 970)

For example here: "Delock 62967,190x1200 96 Hz is guaranteed but if it doesn't work you will need to replace the cable,so if you are able to do it this is the most economical solution".

but Delock is saying 62967 is only 270 Mhz pixel clock, so ... I don't know where the truth is, becouse on paper 1920x1200 96 HZ (331 MHz) is far beyond those specs. That Delock was reported however on forum as: 340-355 MHz. Why those makers cant just tell the true specs ?!.

Last year HD Fury confirmed they're still developing an HD Fury 5, but that's literally all they had to say about it: that it's still being developed. Of course the longer they wait, the smaller the potential customer base gets.

Well, unless they also make it work for 15kHz standard def CRTs, in which case it could have a larger number of customers in the retro-games community.
For 15kHz the best and cheapest option is buy old Radeon card for a few bucks. Ex. HD 3470. In contrast to NVIDIA, low res interlaced resolutions like 576i are still working under Windows. Made them with CRU and tested with WIN 8 and 10. The funny thing is that when using such small res, You can even severly underclock such card in Bios using Radeon Bios Editor (I am using 36' Sony CRT for watching movies) . Both GPU/Ram speed and voltage to make power consumption a few Watts only.
 
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christpunchers

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Last year HD Fury confirmed they're still developing an HD Fury 5, but that's literally all they had to say about it: that it's still being developed. Of course the longer they wait, the smaller the potential customer base gets.

Well, unless they also make it work for 15kHz standard def CRTs, in which case it could have a larger number of customers in the retro-games community.
I see. Is there a version of the DPU3000 that supports dvi, not just vga? I have a dvi-5bnc cable for the fw900, should be superior to the vga-5bnc that I’m using.
 

Derupter

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They are advertising it as 4k2K at 30 HZ only on Displayport, while Sunix is telling about his DPU 3000:
4096 x 2160 60 Hz in single monitor setup.

I have similar one from Logilink CV0109 with the same specs at least on paper with Delock, which costed me 19 USD, and his max working resolution was only 1280x1024 85 Hz with CRT monitor. 3840x2160 30 Hz pixel clock is 297 Mhz in digital mode , so it should at least work at 1600x1200 100 Hz (270 Mhz) but it isn't (tested with NVIDIA card). I forced it to 1600x1200 (but real resolution reported by monitor was still 1280x1024 ...).

Becouse that I use GTX 970 for now, while Sunix is still unavaiable. Or wait for a price drop for cards with USB-C output and use cheap Sunix C2VC7A0 which is 7 USD on Amazon or ex. Plugable which was reported on this forum as: 330-335 MHz

From leaflet of Delock 87685:
VGA resolution up to: 1920x1200 60 Hz

Somebody however sayed, it's working with higher res/refresh with some adjustements: restricting colour space to 4.2.2 as I remember. But in Nvidia panel I can't do that with my Logilink adapter. There is no such option. I should probably add this in CRU: CEA-861 extended block/video capability/selectable RGB and YCC range and try again. (Tried - not working with latest Nvidia drivers for GTX 970)

For example here: "Delock 62967,190x1200 96 Hz is guaranteed but if it doesn't work you will need to replace the cable,so if you are able to do it this is the most economical solution".

but Delock is saying 62967 is only 270 Mhz pixel clock, so ... I don't know where the truth is, becouse on paper 1920x1200 96 HZ (331 MHz) is far beyond those specs. That Delock was reported however on forum as: 340-355 MHz. Why those makers cant just tell the true specs ?!.



For 15kHz the best and cheapest option is buy old Radeon card for a few bucks. Ex. HD 3470. In contrast to NVIDIA, low res interlaced resolutions like 576i are still working under Windows. Made them with CRU and tested with WIN 8 and 10. The funny thing is that when using such small res, You can even severly underclock such card in Bios using Radeon Bios Editor (I am using 36' Sony CRT for watching movies) . Both GPU/Ram speed and voltage to make power consumption a few Watts only.
That Logilink CV0109 is a dual chip design PS8339+ANX9833
Parade PS8339 is for DVI and HDMI
Analogix ANX9833 is for VGA and its digital input bandwidth is limited to 180 MHz
So with this adapter you can do max 180 MHz on analog output

Delock 87685 and Sunix DPU3000 are one chip design with Synaptics VMM2322 and its digital input bandwidth is 720 MHz with 8 bpc

About specs manufacturers consider VGA for old flat panels with max 1920x1080 60 Hz,so they usually test DAC only up to 200 MHz
 

Derupter

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I found an adapter that can potentially have the same performance of DPU3000.
The chipset is the Lontium LT8711X-B which has the same specs as the Synaptics VMM2322.
I asked Lontium about the DAC precision and seems to be 10 bit,but it's a thing that must be tested.
The adapter is the Vention USB-C to VGA (model code CGMHA)
Vention seems to be a company that focuses on quality and effectively the adapter looks well built.
With a card like Sunix UPD2018 it can be connected to any video card with displayport output.

If someone has a Nvidia RTX card or a laptop with the USB-C video output and wants to try,look here:

https://www.amazon.com/Vention-Adapter-Support-Compatible-Pixelbook/dp/B07C4TP4BJ
 
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XoR_

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I will finally get to have my FW900. Its been waiting patiently about 3.5 years for me to get it.

For games there have been advancements in CRU which now can sync games to refresh rate so that with VSync OFF there is no tearing except few lines at the top. It works if framerate is good enough which should not be really an issue even with Ray Tracing really given I could jus use whatever resolution I want with whatever refresh rate I want.

For example here: "Delock 62967,190x1200 96 Hz is guaranteed but if it doesn't work you will need to replace the cable,so if you are able to do it this is the most economical solution".

but Delock is saying 62967 is only 270 Mhz pixel clock, so ... I don't know where the truth is, becouse on paper 1920x1200 96 HZ (331 MHz) is far beyond those specs. That Delock was reported however on forum as: 340-355 MHz. Why those makers cant just tell the true specs ?!.
My Delock works fine at 1920x1200@96Hz (actually 24/1.001 * 4 is the best) on Nv cards. It doesn't have 10bit
I will try making dithering work and report back.
 

XoR_

Gawd
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congrats XoR :D
Damn, how I missed this big thing :nailbiting:

I ran Quake 2 RTX at 1920x1080@85Hz and it runs 85fps with v-sync constant. I set ray bounce to 2 (maximum), contrast to 1, exposure -2.5, set texture lod to -999 and disabled denoiser completely. I love the looks of this game, truly next gen life like graphics :woot:
FW900 is dream monitor for RTX, especially first gen ones and not costing thousandth bucks. Hell, it is the best gaming monitor ever made, period :woot:

I use Delock 62967 and there are no issues with RTX 2070. With registry tweaks it have dithering so no banding when using gamma correction.
For me this covers 99% of requirements for such digital-analog converter. I might get this USB C adapter if works on RTX cards and is better (supports higher pixel clock and/or true 10bit)
 

spacediver

2[H]4U
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Yea, it's a very pretty tube. The main downside to me is that you can't get super high refresh rates at the prime resolution (1920x1200). So if you wanted to game competitively at that res for first person shooters, would be an issue.

Still, it makes up for this shortcoming in many other ways!
 

mathesar

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Damn, how I missed this big thing :nailbiting:

I ran Quake 2 RTX at 1920x1080@85Hz and it runs 85fps with v-sync constant. I set ray bounce to 2 (maximum), contrast to 1, exposure -2.5, set texture lod to -999 and disabled denoiser completely. I love the looks of this game, truly next gen life like graphics :woot:
FW900 is dream monitor for RTX, especially first gen ones and not costing thousandth bucks. Hell, it is the best gaming monitor ever made, period :woot:
Quake 2's single player didnt age all that well but after a couple hours of playing the RTX version and tweaking mouse sensitivity etc. I was hooked all over again, You start noticing a lot of little details that are only possible with ray tracing lol. Like seeing a shadow appear on a wall you're facing only to turn around and realize it's an enemy approaching or how the shiny parts of your weapons fully reflect the world in real-time, explosions light up areas and create shadows just as you'd expect them to in real life etc. it's pretty crazy.
 
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Derupter

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Damn, how I missed this big thing :nailbiting:

I ran Quake 2 RTX at 1920x1080@85Hz and it runs 85fps with v-sync constant. I set ray bounce to 2 (maximum), contrast to 1, exposure -2.5, set texture lod to -999 and disabled denoiser completely. I love the looks of this game, truly next gen life like graphics :woot:
FW900 is dream monitor for RTX, especially first gen ones and not costing thousandth bucks. Hell, it is the best gaming monitor ever made, period :woot:

I use Delock 62967 and there are no issues with RTX 2070. With registry tweaks it have dithering so no banding when using gamma correction.
For me this covers 99% of requirements for such digital-analog converter. I might get this USB C adapter if works on RTX cards and is better (supports higher pixel clock and/or true 10bit)
It's nice to see that 62967 works with your new card and good to know that those registry keys for dithering are working, now let's see how long Nvidia takes to implement it officially.
About the USB-C adapter it should works without problems with RTX cards, at boot time and without any need of drivers.
 

XoR_

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It's nice to see that 62967 works with your new card and good to know that those registry keys for dithering are working, now let's see how long Nvidia takes to implement it officially.
About the USB-C adapter it should works without problems with RTX cards, at boot time and without any need of drivers.
Dithering works but it is extremely finnicky. I basically need to not use sleep mode otherwise dithering is gone. Not sure if enabling/disabling display (in control panel) works or elpt. Hopefully it does.

This USB-C adapter if does support 10bit natively would be better solution. I would still configure dithering for 10bit as normally resolution can be up to 12bit. It wouldn't matter much in this case though.

Quake 2's single player didnt age all that well but after a couple hours of playing the RTX version and tweaking mouse sensitivity etc. I was hooked all over again, You start noticing a lot of little details that are only possible with ray tracing lol. Like seeing a shadow appear on a wall you're facing only to turn around and realize it's an enemy approaching or how the shiny parts of your weapons fully reflect the world in real-time, explosions light up areas and create shadows just as you'd expect them to in real life etc. it's pretty crazy.
I spent a lot of time going through all console commands and settled at setting quite different than default with less automatic contrast control and no denoising at all. With denoising (flt_enable) I would still disable TAA (flt_taa) asd it does way too much filtering. It does remove some residual noise but noise obviously does not bother me :)
Lighting in Quake2 RTX is so far the best I saw in any game. Path tracing lived up to the hype imho :D
 

3dfan

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my fw900 also does some random buzzy sound since about a year, it happens almost every day for short periods of time, and when it happens, i can see an horizontal white translucent line going through the screen from botton to top if i have a white background. fortunately seems no to be causing any issues with the monitor. only notable with a white static background an not too loud, but its very weird.


about that dithering thing some people is talking about recently, just for curiosity, why are you people using it for with the fw900? is it really important? doing a quick search about it, seems to be related to improve banding, however, when checking this banding page test i see no banding and i have not use any dithering setting ever from what i remeber. what is that dithering setting-tweak really useful for?
 
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I am having a bad day. After having my upstairs A/C unit fail during the summer in Houston my beloved FW900 will intermittently dim and brighten while being used. It usually takes a bit of time before it starts and seems to correct itself if you tap the side of the case or manipulate the power outlet at the back of the monitor which does fit fairly loose at the cable side . Sadly this only works for a moment as the dimming problem seems to return. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this kind of stuff but some searching and browsing didn't seem to bring much up. I have dealt with the Windas utillity to some degree in the past but it has been years. Has anyone ever had a similar issue to this? I'd really like to fix this if at all possible.
 
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Strat_84

Limp Gawd
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According to what you're saying it looks pretty much like a bad contact.

First of all, try another power cable, that could be an easy to fix issue.
If that doesn't work, unplug the screen, let it discharge for a day, then you should open the case, open the shielding plate hosting the G board (that board is the one directly behind the power outlet). Check the power outlet is properly connected to the G board, check every connector on the G board is properly connected as well. Next step is to check if there aren't bad solders on the G board (you'll have to remove it from it's plate), especially close to the power outlet in your case. Resolder any that may look suspicious (for instance cracked, missing some solder, completely desoldered).

It's unlikely this is an issue Windas could fix so no need to mess up with the settings. ;)
 
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According to what you're saying it looks pretty much like a bad contact.

First of all, try another power cable, that could be an easy to fix issue.
If that doesn't work, unplug the screen, let it discharge for a day, then you should open the case, open the shielding plate hosting the G board (that board is the one directly behind the power outlet). Check the power outlet is properly connected to the G board, check every connector on the G board is properly connected as well. Next step is to check if there aren't bad solders on the G board (you'll have to remove it from it's plate), especially close to the power outlet in your case. Resolder any that may look suspicious (for instance cracked, missing some solder, completely desoldered).

It's unlikely this is an issue Windas could fix so no need to mess up with the settings. ;)
Any cable I have sits fairly loose in the connector sadly, the socket seems pretty worn. Maybe that could be part of the issue? I'll let it discharge today and pull the covers off for a closer look. I've had the thing apart to dust it out over the years but I'm always scared that this thing is going to kill me. Any other advice on what to look for? I'll invite you to funeral if it helps . There might be cake.
 

Strat_84

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Any cable I have sits fairly loose in the connector sadly, the socket seems pretty worn. Maybe that could be part of the issue? I'll let it discharge today and pull the covers off for a closer look. I've had the thing apart to dust it out over the years but I'm always scared that this thing is going to kill me. Any other advice on what to look for? I'll invite you to funeral if it helps . There might be cake.
It's funny, I have the same problem with 2 GDM-5410, most cables I have won't sit very well in the connector EXCEPT the cables I received with the screens. But I don't remind using another cable causing the issues you describe though.

There's not much else I can say, I've never encountered the specific problem you describe and I can only guess. Tapping the screen temporarily solving the problem is a pretty solid clue about bad contact though, the hardest part may be to locate it. If you can take a high resolution picture of the back of the G board and post it here, I may tell you if I spot something wrong with the solders.
Anyway, don't be too scared, it is necessary to be careful especially when you aren't used to electronics and/or that kind of device but there's not much danger manipulating the internals if the screen is unplugged and you waited some time for it to discharge. The worse you risk is a little spark if you ground a circuit with still some voltage inside. Too bad for the cakes. :(
 

XoR_

Gawd
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I got two new CRTs
kNX5okC.jpg

xMU5S3q.jpg


Pair of awesome SONY PVM 14M2E :cat:
Haven't tested them because they use BNC connectors (on the way, should have them tomorrow) but should be good :)

There is RGB support (for Europe this is not at all unusuall, all SDTV's had RGB inputs for like forever but still imho worth mentioning especially that in US most people get PVM for RGB inputs) and even 16:9 support. Gonna test them with Atari ST, Amiga 600, PS3 and even RPi4 which should be able to not only output 576i (and I guess 480i but who cares :hungover:) but should also allow for custom modes like 47.952Hz >600i for crystal clear almost HD-Ready playback :cool:
 
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It's funny, I have the same problem with 2 GDM-5410, most cables I have won't sit very well in the connector EXCEPT the cables I received with the screens. But I don't remind using another cable causing the issues you describe though.

There's not much else I can say, I've never encountered the specific problem you describe and I can only guess. Tapping the screen temporarily solving the problem is a pretty solid clue about bad contact though, the hardest part may be to locate it. If you can take a high resolution picture of the back of the G board and post it here, I may tell you if I spot something wrong with the solders.
Anyway, don't be too scared, it is necessary to be careful especially when you aren't used to electronics and/or that kind of device but there's not much danger manipulating the internals if the screen is unplugged and you waited some time for it to discharge. The worse you risk is a little spark if you ground a circuit with still some voltage inside. Too bad for the cakes. :(
Gotta love image rotation. Let me know if there is any area I should focus on. I circled a wierd spot on the bottom of the board that looked like it was missing a bit of solder.
 

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Strat_84

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332
Gotta love image rotation. Let me know if there is any area I should focus on. I circled a wierd spot on the bottom of the board that looked like it was missing a bit of solder.
There's nothing wrong with the spot you indicated. It's an area of bare copper that was covered with solder (not too well), but it's not important as there is no connection here.

Can you focus on the areas I circled please ? Otherwise I don't see anything that may look suspicious. Electrolytic capacitors look in pretty good external shape BTW, I would have expected at least a few to have a retracted sleeve on the top (usually meaning it's somewhat bulging).

Did you check the noise filter (the power outlet attached to the shielding plate) ? Do any of the 3 pins to sector power seem loose ? Is there anything wrong with the 3 cables leaving the noise filter ? Are they well attached to the filter ? Are the white and red wires well attached to the plastic 2 pins female connector ? Was that connector well plugged on the G board when you removed it ?

Other than that, you mentionned having previously opened the screen to clean it, how far did you go with dismantling when you did so ? Did you touch any of the connectors or cables in the process ?
 

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