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LG 48CX

I'm up to 1793 hours power on time on mine for work and play. 0 burn-in.
I personaly thing there is bigger chance that oled will just break sooner than some burn in will kick in. The consumer electronics is nowdays not made to last 5+ years and I think most of the people will just replace the TV sooner than they notice any burn in.
Many of these people will replace flagship phone every year but they are affraid to buy a TV for same money because of burn in.
 
I haven't seen a single ounce of burn-in using my CX 48 normally 8h a day. I run what I can in dark mode but occasionally may have something like a bright Excel open and bright websites are pretty normal. It's been fine. Ask me again in 2-3 years.

I'm up to 1793 hours power on time on mine for work and play. 0 burn-in.
Good to hear things like this, since I use mine for both work and play.
 
So after few hours with using Club3d CAC-1372 I did not get any single error in hdmi diagnostic menu (there is some value on start). It also does have a HDMI certification sticker on box and its geniue after confirmed with hdmi authority app.
With previous calbe which is local OEM brand and was just relased few weeks ago and claiming to be HDMI 2.1 I got hundreds of errors. So if anyone is looking for cable and dont want take a risk I would recomend Club3D CAC-1372.
Thanks for this. I’ve got a 6’ monoprice 8K 48Gbps cable coming tomorrow. Of course I won’t be able to fully test it until I can snag an HDMI 2.1 gpu....so Q1 2021 I suppose.
 
So after few hours with using Club3d CAC-1372 I did not get any single error in hdmi diagnostic menu (there is some value on start). It also does have a HDMI certification sticker on box and its geniue after confirmed with hdmi authority app.
With previous calbe which is local OEM brand and was just relased few weeks ago and claiming to be HDMI 2.1 I got hundreds of errors. So if anyone is looking for cable and dont want take a risk I would recomend Club3D CAC-1372.
Good to know. I had the Zeskit on my wishlist but I think I'll just get the Club3D cable now since there's not much price difference. Seems the Zeskit has increased in price by a few dollars since it released. I'll pay $5 more for the peace of mind of having a Certified cable but it sounds like Zeskit and Cable Matters cables might be just as good. How are you guys accessing the HDMI Diagnostics screen? I poked around in the menu and the Home screen yesterday and didn't see it, but there's probably something I missed. Lots of subtrees in there. I found the hours counter, though...1569 here.

I personaly thing there is bigger chance that oled will just break sooner than some burn in will kick in. The consumer electronics is nowdays not made to last 5+ years and I think most of the people will just replace the TV sooner than they notice any burn in.
Many of these people will replace flagship phone every year but they are affraid to buy a TV for same money because of burn in.
I agree. Just vary the content once in a while, particularly if you're using it as a monitor. People are acting as if these are fragile walk-on-eggshells displays (and maybe understandably so, given the price and the hysteria surrounding burn-in on the internet) but several of us have owned more than one OLED and have used them as monitors for work and play over the course of years with no ill effect. Not saying that it's impossible to have burn-in as obviously a few have had it in the past, but you rarely hear about what caused it (i.e. "Well, admittedly I was running it full blast with a static desktop workload for weeks") or whatever. LG has tweaked and made improvements to the panels over the years and they're pretty darn robust IMO. With that being said, I still exercise some care out of an abundance of caution but I'm to the point now where I don't live with fear of burn-in in the back of my mind like I did at first with my B7 when I was worried about having static pixels on the screen for more than a few minutes, lol.
 
Good to know. I had the Zeskit on my wishlist but I think I'll just get the Club3D cable now since there's not much price difference. Seems the Zeskit has increased in price by a few dollars since it released. I'll pay $5 more for the peace of mind of having a Certified cable but it sounds like Zeskit and Cable Matters cables might be just as good. How are you guys accessing the HDMI Diagnostics screen? I poked around in the menu and the Home screen yesterday and didn't see it, but there's probably something I missed. Lots of subtrees in there. I found the hours counter, though...1569 here.


I agree. Just vary the content once in a while, particularly if you're using it as a monitor. People are acting as if these are fragile walk-on-eggshells displays (and maybe understandably so, given the price and the hysteria surrounding burn-in on the internet) but several of us have owned more than one OLED and have used them as monitors for work and play over the course of years with no ill effect. Not saying that it's impossible to have burn-in as obviously a few have had it in the past, but you rarely hear about what caused it (i.e. "Well, admittedly I was running it full blast with a static desktop workload for weeks") or whatever. LG has tweaked and made improvements to the panels over the years and they're pretty darn robust IMO. With that being said, I still exercise some care out of an abundance of caution but I'm to the point now where I don't live with fear of burn-in in the back of my mind like I did at first with my B7 when I was worried about having static pixels on the screen for more than a few minutes, lol.
just follow this:
HDMI diagnostic screen can be accessed by going to Programmes -> highlight Programme Tuning & Settings -> Hit 1,1,1,1,1,1 on your remote. Then press right to highlight HDMI mode and click that to open the info you are looking for.
 
just follow this:
Thank you! This thread is huge now. I wish that we could update the OP with things like that, optimal PC settings, etc. in order to put all of the info in one place and make it easy to locate and refer people to.
 
My CX55 is currently at 3363 hours, and no burn-in so far.

Of note:

I keep my display at around 0-50 OLED light (except for HDR movies, which I watch at 100).
Lots of static content from work laptop (no screensaver)
For my desktop, I have a 5 minute screensaver (Mystify) with 1 hour off-time.
I vary my content between mostly youtube videos, youtube tv, games, and online forums.
I turn off the display if I'm walking away for a long time.
I run the screen refresher every couple of weeks as long as I can remember.

I have a 2 year Best Buy warranty, so if any permanent burn-in (burn-out) shows up, the panel will be repaired ASAP.
 
My CX55 is currently at 3363 hours, and no burn-in so far.

Of note:

I keep my display at around 0-50 OLED light (except for HDR movies, which I watch at 100).
Lots of static content from work laptop (no screensaver)
For my desktop, I have a 5 minute screensaver (Mystify) with 1 hour off-time.
I vary my content between mostly youtube videos, youtube tv, games, and online forums.
I turn off the display if I'm walking away for a long time.
I run the screen refresher every couple of weeks as long as I can remember.

I have a 2 year Best Buy warranty, so if any permanent burn-in (burn-out) shows up, the panel will be repaired ASAP.

I unfortunately burned in my task bar on my 55" C9 (it's minor, but can point it out if pull up a full solid-colored background). Been working from home since March due to covid, and used my OLED as a work monitor. I probably should have hid it, but it was too annoying to try to get the taskbar to popup when I'm multi-tasking dozens of tabs at any given time. It was affecting my productivity. It only took 6 months to burn in, which sucks. I've taken other precautions like most people do (monitor turns off after a few minutes, turn it off when I'm walking away, auto-changing wallpapers, etc.) but it wasn't enough. Was going to swap it out with a 48CX, but never even went on sale during Black Friday. Refuse to pay more for a 48" TV than a 55" one. Guess I'll have to wait for the 2021 model. It kind of sucks but nothing beats the picture-quality of an OLED so I have no choice. It's like owning an expensive sports car you can barely afford. Have to change your lifestyle just to protect your investment (park in the back of the parking lots, wash weekly, don't let your kids/pets near it, etc.) which unfortunately ruins the overall experience just like this TV.
 
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what OLED brightness were you running?

I use 100 when gaming, 60 for office work. Yeah I know, it's probably too high, but I'm not some hermit in a dark basement. I'm using my TV in my gameroom with windows & other people using the room as well. Got to make due with what you got. I can't work several spreadsheets at the same time on a 15" Dell work laptop. If I knew the COVID lockdowns would last more than 14 days (as all the scientist/politicians were saying), I probably would have demanded my work to let me go into the office and steal my three office monitors. It's too late now the damage is already done.
 
Nope, not casting any stones, just finding out the numbers for a better idea of what levels and how long. You've got to use the thing, or it's not worth having. :)
 
I unfortunately burned in my task bar on my 55" C9 (it's minor, but can point it out if pull up a full solid-colored background). Been working from home since March due to covid, and used my OLED as a work monitor. I probably should have hid it, but it was too annoying to try to get the taskbar to popup when I'm multi-tasking dozens of tabs at any given time. It was affecting my productivity. It only took 6 months to burn in, which sucks. I've taken other precautions like most people do (monitor turns off after a few minutes, turn it off when I'm walking away, auto-changing wallpapers, etc.) but it wasn't enough. Was going to swap it out with a 48CX, but never even went on sale during Black Friday. Refuse to pay more for a 48" TV than a 55" one. Guess I'll have to wait for the 2021 model. It kind of sucks but nothing beats the picture-quality of an OLED so I have no choice. It's like owning an expensive sports car you can barely afford. Have to change your lifestyle just to protect your investment (park in the back of the parking lots, wash weekly, don't let your kids/pets near it, etc.) which unfortunately ruins the overall experience just like this TV.
You spend a lot of time staring at full solid-colored slides?

If not, maybe you're overreacting.
 
Unrelated to burn-in, I received a new HDMI cable and now can enjoy full 4k/120Hz/10bpp with rock solid signal quality. Cable definitely matters here... I have over a dozen cables here that I tried, from years-old to brand-new-labeled-8k and it took an entirely new one to see success.

FWIW I ordered this: Amazon.com: Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 8K60 4K120 144Hz eARC HDR10 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2 & 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Xbox PS4 PS5 Apple TV 4K Roku Fire TV Switch Vizio Sony LG Samsung: Industrial & Scientific

I'm sure there are better, cheaper options; this one seemed to work for me.
 
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Random question. Has anyone ever seen the pixel refresher run automatically after turning off the TV when in PC mode?

I only ever see it when I am using a built in app like the Netflix app. When it goes to standby, it goes into the pixel refresher. I never see it run otherwise. Could be happening when I'm asleep, but I'm a little worried if something is preventing it from running (like PC mode).
 
I use 100 when gaming, 60 for office work. Yeah I know, it's probably too high, but I'm not some hermit in a dark basement. I'm using my TV in my gameroom with windows & other people using the room as well. Got to make due with what you got. I can't work several spreadsheets at the same time on a 15" Dell work laptop. If I knew the COVID lockdowns would last more than 14 days (as all the scientist/politicians were saying), I probably would have demanded my work to let me go into the office and steal my three office monitors. It's too late now the damage is already done.
I wonder how people stand a brightness of 60 all day. I'm using 20 in the day time and I even find that too bright at times. I guess it's what you're used to...
 
I wonder how people stand a brightness of 60 all day. I'm using 20 in the day time and I even find that too bright at times. I guess it's what you're used to...
Same. I'm using 0 in a moderately bright room, and I can see it just fine. If it's at 30 at night, it's almost painfully bright.

To everyone that says that the CX doesn't get bright enough... you're full of crap lol.
 
Unrelated to burn-in, I received a new HDMI cable and now can enjoy full 4k/120Hz/10bpp with rock solid signal quality. Cable definitely matters here... I have over a dozen cables here that I tried, from years-old to brand-new-labeled-8k and it took an entirely new one to see success.

FWIW I ordered this: Amazon.com: Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 8K60 4K120 144Hz eARC HDR10 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2 & 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Xbox PS4 PS5 Apple TV 4K Roku Fire TV Switch Vizio Sony LG Samsung: Industrial & Scientific

I'm sure there are better, cheaper options; this one seemed to work for me.
Same one i ordered last week.

Now just need a to upgrade my 2080ti to a 3080 or 3090.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Random question. Has anyone ever seen the pixel refresher run automatically after turning off the TV when in PC mode?

I only ever see it when I am using a built in app like the Netflix app. When it goes to standby, it goes into the pixel refresher. I never see it run otherwise. Could be happening when I'm asleep, but I'm a little worried if something is preventing it from running (like PC mode).
How do you tell? I thought the screen just stayed black and there was no indication it was doing its thing?
 
How do you tell? I thought the screen just stayed black and there was no indication it was doing its thing?
I think you answered me... I thought that fireworks animation thing was it, but it's just the netflix screensaver. So I guess there's no way to know it's running or not.
 
I think you answered me... I thought that fireworks animation thing was it, but it's just the netflix screensaver. So I guess there's no way to know it's running or not.
Yeah if you kick it off manually it's just a black screen with the tv apparently off. If you connect the TV to a kill-a-watt or UPS where you can watch the power usage you could probably catch it doing stuff while seemingly off.
 
Ready for Cyberpunk :D


PXL_20201209_184431146(1).jpg
 
We shall see lol
I hope there will be no HUD option otherwise RIP our OLEDs :D

nvm, just found: "The most fun one I think will be the Hardcore setting where we turn off the UI ... And that will be a real challenge for a lot of players," Cyberpunk 2077 UI coordinator Alvin Liu told
 
I think you answered me... I thought that fireworks animation thing was it, but it's just the netflix screensaver. So I guess there's no way to know it's running or not.
If you have an RGB strip install into the TV's USB port, it can sorta tells you. If the lights stay on after you turn off the TV, that means it's running the pixel refresher.
 
I hope there will be no HUD option otherwise RIP our OLEDs :D

nvm, just found: "The most fun one I think will be the Hardcore setting where we turn off the UI ... And that will be a real challenge for a lot of players," Cyberpunk 2077 UI coordinator Alvin Liu told

I found out how to remove the life bar from Jedi: fallen order by editing the cfg file. Looked it up on a few forums. Another reason PC > console.

I won't be getting cyberpunk until after I get the 3090 model I want, which isn't even released yet let alone post scalper timeframes. So at this rate I hope within Q1 of 2021.
 
Ya i was looking into a 3080 EVGA 4TW but probably will hold off for a 3090, sucks really just trying to upgrade from my 2080ti for the 2.1.

Anyone running a Sonos soundbar or something similar? Going to wall mount the TV this weekend so want to make space under for it.

Can you just run the optical in to the TV and it will work from there?
 
Have you guys seen this? Scary stuff.

E9880EC8-5520-46D5-95F7-96608B18689A.jpeg

I’ve had some issues, but not as commonly as that YouTuber. Here’s the worst example I’ve seen. In the first episode of “For All Mankind” on Apple TV+, at 35:19, there is this scene where it clips the black level. It’s some kind of Dolby Vision decoding issue, because even if I set brightness to 100 (which raises the black value to a gray), the contour of the dark shape is identical. In the previous scene, at 34:12, there is bad flickering. It happens in both the LG AppleTV+ app and with the AppleTV 4K device. (I believe this episode is free if anyone want to try it). There are no issues when viewing the scenes on an iPhone 12.

In one animated show I was watching, in SDR, in one scene there was a dark gray patch that flickered even when the show was paused. I believe adjusting the OLED light level to be brighter fixed that.

He mentions a grid on white. I had something like that once, but it went away when I restarted the TV and I’ve never seen it since.

All Dolby Vision content has raised blacks, so I have to set the OLED light level to 49 to get perfectly black blacks.
 
I fired up some Cyberpunk 2077 on my 3080 + CX 55. This display has never looked better.... unreal.
 
I fired up some Cyberpunk 2077 on my 3080 + CX 55. This display has never looked better.... unreal.
I heard HDR is disappointing, pseudo-HDR, with settings leading to either brightened blacks or poor color treatment

Have you tried HDR with CP and the CX?
 
CDPR did such a good job on Cyberpunk 2077 graphics that it really doesn't "need" RT. Honestly, on a 3080, setting RT off, DLSS to "balanced", and everything else to Max @ 4K makes this game a treat, both visually and in terms of performance.
 
I heard HDR is disappointing, pseudo-HDR, with settings leading to either brightened blacks or poor color treatment

Have you tried HDR with CP and the CX?
I notice raised blacks in both HDR and SDR in it. I also have no idea what that "tone map midpoint" setting should be... I also don't know which of the HDR modes is "correct". I'm doing scRGB.
 
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