LG 48CX

ASBL can only be disabled with the service menu using either the service remote you can get off eBay or by using an Android phone with a IR blaster and a suitable app. There are a few in the Google Play store. I have not yet tried any so I don't know how well they work.

For PC use it might be worth turning off ASBL, even if it means diminishing the lifetime of the display a little. This is not an issue if you are just gaming or watching movies but if you use this display for everything then you might notice it.
I'm interested in trying this. ABSL isn't "super annoying" but I would appreciate not having it.

The cheapest option appears to be Ebay, for the MKJ39170828 remote for £6. However, having Google-d this I can't find definitive success cases of attempting it with the CX. Should I try it?
 
AFAIK Control doesn't support HDR which is a shame. For AC series you need to adjust HDR peak brightness through the games menu.

I think control is one of the advertised games that support DLSS 2.0, just in case you weren't aware.

It's a shame HDR is so screwy on pc. PQ HDR was supposed to be based on a set of absolute values, with limited displays applying tone mapping based on metadata to preserve details and scale the color volume within their new truncated color volume ceiling. In that type of scenario you'd never manually edit the brightness/gamma in your games manually - you'd use the dim to dark home theater environment that HDR was made for. It seems like a lot of pc HDR games dropped the ball even more than just having what appears to be dimmer average SDR range (in the of the bulk of a scene) when viewed in brighter ., technically inappropriate for HDR, viewing environments.



HLG is still relative which isn't true form HDR which should have absolute values.

PQ (Perceptual quantization) gamma curve is based on the characteristics of human visual perception.

HLG (Hybrid Log-Gamma) is sort of a sloppy way to make quasi HDR work with inadequate SDR based systems, live un-encoded video feed material, and lower quality quasi-HDR hardware. There's no reason games should be using the makeshift relative version other than that most of the displays people are using for HDR material are inadequate in the first place.


https://www.eizo.com/library/management/ins-and-outs-of-hdr/index2.html/

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https://www.resetera.com/threads/hdr-games-analysed.23587/

https://www.resetera.com/threads/hdr-games-analyzed-pt-2-now-with-some-ps4-exclusives.27129/page-3

348947_QfSF1rn.jpg

I've spent the last couple of weeks investigating the HDR output of various games.
When it comes to SDR video , you may be familiar with RGB values 0-255 , with 0 representing the colour black and 255 representing white (if you've ever used a colour picker in MS paint or a word processor, you may have seen this type of number).
HDR10 /Dolby Vision is a little bit different, not just because it uses a scale of 0-1023, but because each of these data values represent not just black to white (or colour), but also a measure of luminance in Nits, which isthe intensity of the light (how bright it is)

Unlike previous video formats, these values are defined and are absolute. A value of 0 will always represent no light at all (total black) , a value of 1023 will always represent 10000nits of luminance, a value of 769 will always represent 1000nits.

So if a modern HDR TV is fed these values, they should be exactly outputting the amount of light described by the value given.
HDR10 and Dolby vision both used this system, and can refereed to as PQ based HDR

Now as it stands, there aren't many TVs that get to the heady heights of 10k nits, you are lucky if you can get one that goes above 1500 at the moment.
When the signal being received goes beyond the hardware capability of the display, the TV chooses how it handles this, most manufacturers simply clip the white values above a level chosen by them. They may also choose a soft roll off and try to make the shift into the clipped values less obvious.
In order to do this, the when the content is mastered/produced for HDR10 and Dolby vision specify some additional information about the image content in the form of metadata
, this metadata usually says what is the most intensely brightest value that will be seen in the game (or movie) and what the average luminance is across all of the content. These values are defined by the display the content was mastered on.
Most UHD content current is being mastered for 1000nit screens or 4000nit screens.

The purpose of this metadata is so an SDR image (or something inbetween SDR and HDR) can be derived from the the original HDR content in the event that the content is viewed on a display that does not reach the peak Luma of the display that the content was mastered on.

So if you movie has been mastered on a 1000nit reference display, and you are using an OLED screen with a 650nit max output the TV can use this metadata to try best decide how to display the information that can't otherwise be displayed, due to hardware limitations.
Once you are using a display that meets or exceeds the peak brightness of the content, the metadata actually becomes irrelevant.

So with this in mind I've been looking at how games have been mastered, what options do they present to the user to adjust the image , what do these options actually do and what is the relationship between these things and how the HDR looks.
Videogames have a big advantage over movies in that the image is generated in real time, so the image can be adjusted at will

Due to the nature of HDR content, this is actually really easy to measure, all we need is an un-tonemapped screenshot or video capture and from this we can look at the code values that have been used in various in parts of the image image.
We can see if the game is actually outputting anything that is black (or has a cinematic grade been applied with raised blacks) we can also see what is the very brightest value that the game is going to try and use to represent something like the sun.
So I've been looking at the make up for various different games for Xbox (which allows for HDR screenshot output) to try and understand what the in-game adjustments actually do and how I should be using them to ensure that I get the best from my display.


https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/201...long-list-of-fake-hdr-content-analysis-finds/
 
So sorry for the late update, but ever since I got my CX...I have been in absolute gaming HEAVEN. Everything works as intended, 4k 120Hz 4:2:0 8bit SDR with GSYNC and holy crap I have just been completely blown away. So far I have NOT noticed any near black weirdness as a result of VRR, at least from the games that I have played so far. This is the perfect combo that I have been dreaming of for years and it's finally come true and will only get better once new GPUs launch to give us more frames and unlock 10bit 444. I'll upload some photos soon but man photos do NOT do this display ANY justice at all, it's damn amazing and was well worth the wait. Here's the main menu from Halo MCC on PC and I don't know what to tell you...don't really see any near black weirdness going on at least in this game...

EDIT: Yeah I see my pictures are pretty much worthless but I stand by what I said on the near black issue, but perhaps I might run into it in a different game who knows, until then I'll just be enjoying the awesome gaming experience of the CX.
 

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So sorry for the late update, but ever since I got my CX...I have been in absolute gaming HEAVEN. Everything works as intended, 4k 120Hz 4:2:0 8bit SDR with GSYNC and holy crap I have just been completely blown away. So far I have NOT noticed any near black weirdness as a result of VRR, at least from the games that I have played so far. This is the perfect combo that I have been dreaming of for years and it's finally come true and will only get better once new GPUs launch to give us more frames and unlock 10bit 444. I'll upload some photos soon but man photos do NOT do this display ANY justice at all, it's damn amazing and was well worth the wait. Here's the main menu from Halo MCC on PC and I don't know what to tell you...don't really see any near black weirdness going on at least in this game...

Well said! I feel the exact same way. It was a long wait, but absolutely worth waiting for.

This is a holy grail gaming display. I’m sure there will be minor improvements between this and MicroLED years down the road, but this is about as good as it gets for now. I came from an OLED and I’m pretty floored. Anyone coming from a 60Hz LCD should probably plan on having a change of underwear handy. :)
 
Yeah this display has renewed my passion for PC gaming for sure. Try out Prey from 2017, and exit the station to float around in space. It's simply jaw dropping. An entirely new experience from the first time I played it.

Only caveat is my backyard garden isn't looking as great this year. I'm spending too much damn time indoors, staring at this screen!
 
I feel bad for you, either something is wrong with your panel or your PC config is messed up. Either way I would try to factory reset the TV and on PC reinstall drivers with "clean" settings etc., to try and get it working. If all fails, it might be a faulty panel.

Also try a different HDMI cable, maybe that's the issue. The shorter the better (2m-3m), and an expensive 48Gbps cable is worth it.
Its ok :)
Tried resetting the whole thing to factory. And disabled everything that has nothing to do with pc hdmi input.
Still 60hz from ps4 and pc is a huge let down compared to 120hz.
Guess its native 120 tech does something when downgrading to 60 hz that makes input lag and ghosting bad.
Anyway going to fine tune a bit more to see if i can do some improvements.
 
I thought you could turn off ABL now. That's a deal breaker for me. I can't stand the display jumping around, I need a static configuration. Damn it LG.
I have gone through all settings in another issue and i really think i saw something that has to do with abl. Think its was in eco settings or powersavings section. Gonna check again
 
I thought you could turn off ABL now. That's a deal breaker for me. I can't stand the display jumping around, I need a static configuration. Damn it LG.

My understanding is you can't, but running at contrast 80 and low OLED light avoids it. Which is kind of what you would do on the desktop anyway. ASBL is the one you can disable, but only from the service menu.
 
Yeah this display has renewed my passion for PC gaming for sure. Try out Prey from 2017, and exit the station to float around in space. It's simply jaw dropping. An entirely new experience from the first time I played it.

Only caveat is my backyard garden isn't looking as great this year. I'm spending too much damn time indoors, staring at this screen!

Ah yes space is definitely an OLED strongpoint. I just purchased Space Engine :)
 
My understanding is you can't, but running at contrast 80 and low OLED light avoids it. Which is kind of what you would do on the desktop anyway. ASBL is the one you can disable, but only from the service menu.

If you have OLED light cranked high enough that ABL kicks in during desktop usage, it's uncomfortably bright, you'll be squinting, and you'll want to turn OLED light down anyway...
 
Finally encountered some near black flashing. Happened in the Witcher 3, in the menu and when playing the game during a night cycle. Can upload a video if wanted.
 
So sorry for the late update, but ever since I got my CX...I have been in absolute gaming HEAVEN. Everything works as intended, 4k 120Hz 4:2:0 8bit SDR with GSYNC and holy crap I have just been completely blown away. So far I have NOT noticed any near black weirdness as a result of VRR, at least from the games that I have played so far. This is the perfect combo that I have been dreaming of for years and it's finally come true and will only get better once new GPUs launch to give us more frames and unlock 10bit 444. I'll upload some photos soon but man photos do NOT do this display ANY justice at all, it's damn amazing and was well worth the wait. Here's the main menu from Halo MCC on PC and I don't know what to tell you...don't really see any near black weirdness going on at least in this game...

EDIT: Yeah I see my pictures are pretty much worthless but I stand by what I said on the near black issue, but perhaps I might run into it in a different game who knows, until then I'll just be enjoying the awesome gaming experience of the CX.

How far away are you from the TV? Looks pretty close which will be about the same as my set up. You think its too close?
 
How far away are you from the TV? Looks pretty close which will be about the same as my set up. You think its too close?

I actually don't sit that close haha. I have a corsair lapboard with a wireless keyboard that I use for whenever I do want to game on it. It's not my main monitor either, I have an Acer X27 on a vesa mount that I just haven't attached back on the desk yet. It's definitely too close and too big for monitor use, at least for me personally.
 
Ok - just received and tested stuff for an hour with the CAC-1085 DP1.4 to HDMI2.1 adapter. At this point I CANNOT recommend this product. It's flawed running on my 2080TI and CX48. This is what i send to Club3d Support:
  • Everytime I change resolution or HDR on/off or change the color profile (bits, chroma or RGC) – the adapter looses signal. Only way to recover is pull the USB Power and put it back in;
  • Even when moving from in game back to windows (disabling HDR) e.g. in RDR2 – it looses signal;
  • When login into windows (switching from lock screen to desktop) it looses signal;
  • HDR increases the brightness of the entire panel;
  • I’m not able to run 4:4:4. Only 4:2:2 or RGB;
  • GSync is NOT supported;
  • Custom Resolution (36840x1600) is NOT supported. Black screen like before;
  • Custom Resolution (3440x1440) at 120 hz 1:1 is supported but only at 8-bit - and NO G-Sync.
Just switched back to HDMI - Text is better readable... there is something wrong with the full RGB / HDR that causes text to be fuzzy.

Where did you get the Club 3D CAC-1085? I looked on amazon and everywhere , did not see them.
 
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So sorry for the late update, but ever since I got my CX...I have been in absolute gaming HEAVEN. Everything works as intended, 4k 120Hz 4:2:0 8bit SDR with GSYNC and holy crap I have just been completely blown away. So far I have NOT noticed any near black weirdness as a result of VRR, at least from the games that I have played so far. This is the perfect combo that I have been dreaming of for years and it's finally come true and will only get better once new GPUs launch to give us more frames and unlock 10bit 444. I'll upload some photos soon but man photos do NOT do this display ANY justice at all, it's damn amazing and was well worth the wait. Here's the main menu from Halo MCC on PC and I don't know what to tell you...don't really see any near black weirdness going on at least in this game...

EDIT: Yeah I see my pictures are pretty much worthless but I stand by what I said on the near black issue, but perhaps I might run into it in a different game who knows, until then I'll just be enjoying the awesome gaming experience of the CX.

This has been my exact feeling since getting my CX 55. EVERYTHING looks good on this thing. Games are super responsive, and it doesn't matter if the game is SDR or HDR. It looks fantastic. I seriously cannot wait for Nvidia or AMD to release HDMI 2.1 GPUs so we can truly unleash this beast. I've never EVER considered spending $1000+ for a GPU, but if next gen GPUs support HDMI 2.1, I will gladly drop that sort of cash for a high-end GPU. Don't get me wrong, my RTX 2070 Super drives this display just fine, but for the first time in a long, long time, I want more GPU power.. a lot more. This is really exciting!

My wallet is already crying out in agony... yay for stupidly expensive displays!!! :D
 
UT2k42.jpg


UT2k41.jpg


As MistaSparkful said, these images don't do the picture quality justice. Seeing super bright pixels next to super dark pixels is an experience. It's even better in motion because, unlike an LCD, there's not "smear" or overshoot usually associated with high refresh rate monitors. It's just clean, fast, and beautiful. The CX 55 has reinvigorated my love of PC gaming.

Also... here's a video. Again, it doesn't do the monitor justice.

 
just curious what y'all set your FOV to? i've been pretty much maxing out on any game
 
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As MistaSparkful said, these images don't do the picture quality justice. Seeing super bright pixels next to super dark pixels is an experience. It's even better in motion because, unlike an LCD, there's not "smear" or overshoot usually associated with high refresh rate monitors. It's just clean, fast, and beautiful. The CX 55 has reinvigorated my love of PC gaming.

Also... here's a video. Again, it doesn't do the monitor justice.


People play ut2k4 online still? That's awesome if so.

I want this display so badly... but it's this or a 3080ti for me for now, and I'm on GTX 970 sli. Maybe on sale at the end of the year.
 
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I actually don't sit that close haha. I have a corsair lapboard with a wireless keyboard that I use for whenever I do want to game on it. It's not my main monitor either, I have an Acer X27 on a vesa mount that I just haven't attached back on the desk yet. It's definitely too close and too big for monitor use, at least for me personally.

I actually had the acer x27 too but I ended up returning it cause I wasn't sure if it was better than the CX 48. I actually really like the x27, its super sharp and the HDR was amazing. The only flaw was it was quite in the small side, a 35" would have been perfect. Also, the blooming was quite bad. So far, how are you liking the CX vs the x27?
 
I actually had the acer x27 too but I ended up returning it cause I wasn't sure if it was better than the CX 48. I actually really like the x27, its super sharp and the HDR was amazing. The only flaw was it was quite in the small side, a 35" would have been perfect. Also, the blooming was quite bad. So far, how are you liking the CX vs the x27?

I game in a dark room so I prefer the OLED's perfect blacks as opposed to the X27's greater peak brightness. If you game in a really bright room then you may find the HDR on an OLED screen to lack punch. At this point I've pretty much retired my X27 to my side monitor, it's served me well the past 2 years when there were no other options for 4k 120Hz GSYNC HDR gaming. 4k at 27 inches still makes for amazing text clarity with high PPI so it's what I use for non gaming now.
 
48Cx plus the 3080Ti/3090 will be $2500-$3000 altogether not including tax. Guessing closer to $3000.
 
48Cx plus the 3080Ti/3090 will be $2500-$3000 altogether not including tax. Guessing closer to $3000.

Yep. It seems like a lot, but you have to pay to play on the cutting edge. It's always been that way, and this is the crème de la crème.

Nvidia flagship graphics card prices aside (oh how I miss the $700 1080Ti), the 48CX is actually a great value compared to the LG 38" IPS ultrawide that's more expensive yet offers nowhere near the image quality. LCD can only go so far.

Are there good gaming LCDs? Yeah. Are there combinations of monitors and graphics cards that will work for gamers on a budget? Yep. But this is the pinnacle for right now, and it's going to be expensive to run at its full potential.
 
48Cx plus the 3080Ti/3090 will be $2500-$3000 altogether not including tax. Guessing closer to $3000.

My guess is the "cheap" way to get up and running gaming on an oled would be to wait for the vizio 55 and see how big navi performs

vizio oled 55" ~ 1299.99
big navi ~ 700 ish (guess, but I expect it to target the 600-700 dollar range)

If big navi is faster than a 2080ti, that would be enough performance for most people, even at 4k.
 
I thought you could turn off ABL now. That's a deal breaker for me. I can't stand the display jumping around, I need a static configuration. Damn it LG.
.
According to RTings CX review, the CX has aggressive ABL like the C9, E9.
"The CX has decent HDR peak brightness, enough to bring out highlights in HDR. There's quite a bit of variation when displaying different content, and it gets the least bright with large areas, which is caused by the aggressive ABL. "
That is how it is with HDR.
With SDR, there is a Peak Brightness Setting. Since it limits the peak brightness it doesn't seem compatible with HDR.
350384_x6eTr0w.png
From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."

I use dark themes and backgrounds on windows 10, my 3rd party file browser, 3rd party notepad, discord, irc, twitch, sms texting app, foobar, etc. Anything I can. Even on my lcds.

I use" turn off the lights" auto dimming light bulb web browser addon that remembers settings per site and has a white list you can add to for already dark sites like hardforum. It can also optionally show a page brightness/dimming slider that on a click toggles to a small out of the way square instead. It's dimming overlay can be set to click through so that you can click on links which is recommended.

Another browser addon I use is called "color changer" which shows a drop down wheel to change the background and text colors very easily with slider and a ring of pebble looking color gradients. The colors you pick are remembered per site. It also has quick on/always/never buttons. One other addon I use trys to make sure that the browser doesnt switch to a white loading background on momentary page loads which is shockingly bright when it happens.
212950.png

I have a few apps that won't change their backgrounds from white no matter what which is very annoying. I haven't found replacements for them yet but at least some of them don't have to be shown at all times.
 
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Ok - just received and tested stuff for an hour with the CAC-1085 DP1.4 to HDMI2.1 adapter. At this point I CANNOT recommend this product. It's flawed running on my 2080TI and CX48. This is what i send to Club3d Support:
  • Everytime I change resolution or HDR on/off or change the color profile (bits, chroma or RGC) – the adapter looses signal. Only way to recover is pull the USB Power and put it back in;
  • Even when moving from in game back to windows (disabling HDR) e.g. in RDR2 – it looses signal;
  • When login into windows (switching from lock screen to desktop) it looses signal;
  • HDR increases the brightness of the entire panel;
  • I’m not able to run 4:4:4. Only 4:2:2 or RGB;
  • GSync is NOT supported;
  • Custom Resolution (36840x1600) is NOT supported. Black screen like before;
  • Custom Resolution (3440x1440) at 120 hz 1:1 is supported but only at 8-bit - and NO G-Sync.
Just switched back to HDMI - Text is better readable... there is something wrong with the full RGB / HDR that causes text to be fuzzy.
I have a C9 and a 1080ti and also received this adapter. I don't have most of these problems. Switching resolution or between HDR/SDR takes a bit longer than usual (couple of seconds), but I don't have to pull the USB cable. What HDMI cable are you using?
It is possible to run at 3840x2160 8-bit and Full RGB (4:4:4) if you create a custom resolution with Custom Resolution Utility. You need to add the extension block DisplayID, use LCD standard timings and reduce the back porch from 119 to about 50 lines.
This is necessary because you need to stay below the pixel clock of around 1080MHz due to the 32.4Gbps DP 1.4 limit (without DSC).

GSync is indeed not supported, but my 1080ti didn't support it over HDMI anyway.

One other thing I noticed is that in PC mode and HDR, the color banding is much better at 120Hz/100Hz vs. 60Hz. Maybe it's because of the separate HDMI 2.1 chipset of the C9.
 
Here are my settings if anyone was curious

picture mode - game
aspect ratio - original
Just scan - On

oled - 75
contrast - 90
brightness - 50
sharpness - 0
color - 50
tint - 0

Advanced Settings
dynamic contrast - off
super resolution - off
color gamut - auto
gama 2.2
Under White Balance - Color Temp warm2

picture options

black level - auto
motion eye care - off

picture mode - game (HDR)
aspect ratio - original
Just scan - On

oled - 100
contrast - 100
brightness - 50
sharpness - 5
color - 55
tint - 0

picture options

black level - auto
motion eye care - off


Advanced Settings
dynamic contrast - off
super resolution - off
color gamut - auto
gama 2.2
Under White Balance - Color Temp warm2
 
just curious what y'all set your FOV to? i've been pretty much maxing out on any game

This is what I did for Doom Eternal and would probably want to do on any first person shooter, or at least push it higher if that is an option. The display is big so making it feel less like you have binoculars on helps. Anyone who has ever tried to play a console low 60 FOV game on a desktop display knows how this feels - awful!

I have a C9 and a 1080ti and also received this adapter. I don't have most of these problems. Switching resolution or between HDR/SDR takes a bit longer than usual (couple of seconds), but I don't have to pull the USB cable. What HDMI cable are you using?
It is possible to run at 3840x2160 8-bit and Full RGB (4:4:4) if you create a custom resolution with Custom Resolution Utility. You need to add the extension block DisplayID, use LCD standard timings and reduce the back porch from 119 to about 50 lines.
This is necessary because you need to stay below the pixel clock of around 1080MHz due to the 32.4Gbps DP 1.4 limit (without DSC).

GSync is indeed not supported, but my 1080ti didn't support it over HDMI anyway.

One other thing I noticed is that in PC mode and HDR, the color banding is much better at 120Hz/100Hz vs. 60Hz. Maybe it's because of the separate HDMI 2.1 chipset of the C9.

That's promising. I think I will order one and see how it fares as I own both a CX 48" and a C9 65".

What does reducing back porch do? Any effect on image quality? Is this only required on the 1080 Ti because it does not support DSC like the 20xx series does?
 
Here are my settings if anyone was curious

picture mode - game
aspect ratio - original
Just scan - On

oled - 75
contrast - 90
brightness - 50
sharpness - 0
color - 50
tint - 0

Advanced Settings
dynamic contrast - off
super resolution - off
color gamut - auto
gama 2.2
Under White Balance - Color Temp warm2

picture options

black level - auto
motion eye care - off

picture mode - game (HDR)
aspect ratio - original
Just scan - On

oled - 100
contrast - 100
brightness - 50
sharpness - 5
color - 55
tint - 0

picture options

black level - auto
motion eye care - off


Advanced Settings
dynamic contrast - off
super resolution - off
color gamut - auto
gama 2.2
Under White Balance - Color Temp warm2

These are pretty much the exact same I use. Especially changing the color temp helps for more accurate visuals.
 
Got this monitor yesterday and I've been wondering about G-sync ever since.
I watched some Youtube-videos where G-sync was enabled. For me it's not showing in Nvidia control panel.

GPU is Titan X Pascal, which seems to have HDMI 2.0b.
Nvidia Control Panel shows 3840x2160 120Hz, YCbCr420, 8bpc, Limited.
From CX I have game mode enabled, input changed to PC.
Cable is HDMI 2.1 capable 48GBps (for the upcoming 3080/Ti probaby)

In 120Hz mode I cannot enable HDR in Windows. In 60Hz there are much more options available.
On desktop the text seems to have a bit of a color shift, especially vertical lines.
Device manager shows "Generic PnP monitor".

So, is there something I missed? Am I demanding too much from this older HDMI? :)
 
Got this monitor yesterday and I've been wondering about G-sync ever since.
I watched some Youtube-videos where G-sync was enabled. For me it's not showing in Nvidia control panel.

GPU is Titan X Pascal, which seems to have HDMI 2.0b.
Nvidia Control Panel shows 3840x2160 120Hz, YCbCr420, 8bpc, Limited.
From CX I have game mode enabled, input changed to PC.
Cable is HDMI 2.1 capable 48GBps (for the upcoming 3080/Ti probaby)

In 120Hz mode I cannot enable HDR in Windows. In 60Hz there are much more options available.
On desktop the text seems to have a bit of a color shift, especially vertical lines.
Device manager shows "Generic PnP monitor".

So, is there something I missed? Am I demanding too much from this older HDMI? :)

G-Sync is only supported on RTX 2000 and 1600 series cards.

3840x2160 120Hz 4:2:0 8bit and adding HDR on top of it - too much bandwidth for HDMI 2.0 - we need HDMI 2.1 GPU's for that. Stick with 3840x2160 RGB 8bit 60hz for HDR.
 
Got this monitor yesterday and I've been wondering about G-sync ever since.
I watched some Youtube-videos where G-sync was enabled. For me it's not showing in Nvidia control panel.

GPU is Titan X Pascal, which seems to have HDMI 2.0b.
Nvidia Control Panel shows 3840x2160 120Hz, YCbCr420, 8bpc, Limited.
From CX I have game mode enabled, input changed to PC.
Cable is HDMI 2.1 capable 48GBps (for the upcoming 3080/Ti probaby)

In 120Hz mode I cannot enable HDR in Windows. In 60Hz there are much more options available.
On desktop the text seems to have a bit of a color shift, especially vertical lines.
Device manager shows "Generic PnP monitor".

So, is there something I missed? Am I demanding too much from this older HDMI? :)

For G-Sync you need the Instant Game response enabled an a RTX 2000 or 1600 series GPU.

For 4K 120 Hz HDR you need HDMI 2.1. You can use HDR at 4K 60 Hz or 1080p/1440p 120 Hz though.

4K 120 Hz 8-bit 4:2:0 will look a bit blurry and off on the desktop but you will not notice it in gaming. Run it at 60 Hz 8-bit full RGB on the desktop.
 
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