Asus VG248QE 144hz 3D Vision 2: The Official Thread

Maskirovka said:
Was just on the fence about buying one of these...then I saw your post. Thanks!

I'm currently using a Sharp 32" 1080p LED TV as my display,

http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-AQUOS-LC32LS510UT-32-Inch-1080p/dp/B003MPTBO6/ref=pd_sxp_f_r

But, I'm moving and won't have a TV for the living room unless I replace my PC display. I've been REALLY happy with this TV as a monitor for years. Going from 32" to 24" will be a bit jarring, but going from 60hz to 144hz will be a nice return to the old days of high refresh CRT gaming.

I have no plans to use the 3D, but I must say I'm a little excited to play with minimal screen tearing at higher framerates.
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I just tried it and it didn't work, said it's expired?
 
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jwl24 said:
I just tried it and it didn't work, said it's expired?
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Yeah...it is expired.

I placed an order last night and it went through but I never got the confirmation email. When I woke up this morning, I noticed there was no record of the order on the site or with my bank account and that the coupon was now expired. I emailed newegg telling them what happened and hours later I got the order confirmation email with a seemingly generic "promo code" on there, but no reply to my message.

I have no idea if they simply found the lost order or if they only bothered to find it because I asked. You could try a similar thing I guess...I'm not sure what the code was for or how long it was supposed to last.
 
UPDATE:

Better LightBoost Color

Vega and several other people have messaged to tell me that the new Geforce driver version 320.18 (nVidia website) has greatly improved LightBoost color quality on ASUS VG248QE (and maybe also BENQ XL2411T) monitors. It is not as good color as 144Hz, but much closer than before.
 
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NCX said:
I will verify this today with my colorimeter.
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Yes, let me know how much the default color calibration has improved.
It won't improve upon a good Spyder4 or i1 Pro calibration.

Also, can you also briefly test LightBoost with your i1 or Spyder with monitor's OSD Contrast=65%, 75% and 90% respectively? I heard a report from two VG278H user that got ~800:1 contrast ratio with LightBoost, but he had to raise monitor OSD Contrast to 90% before beginning calibration, in order to get that. Normally that creates bleached gamma, which has to be undone by Spyder4 / i1 Pro, but manages to keep the original contrast ratio, but without the bleached gamma. However, the VG248QE doesn't have as good a color gamut as VG278H, apparently. Also, Contrast 90% (via monitor OSD) causes more visible ghosting artifacts (LightBoost eliminates most of it at 65% contrast).
 
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The default lightboost contrast is already too high and causes bleaching and makes light shades blend together
 
hey guys, did anyone check for scanlines on the Asus at 120 hz and 144hz?

My Benq XL2411T seems to have barely visible scanlines @ 120hz, it doesnt though @ 100hz and 144hz.
 
NCX said:
The default lightboost contrast is already too high and causes bleaching and makes light shades blend together
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That's correct. That said, on the VG278H, the whites never become as bright as the whites in the OSD menu, until Contrast is 90%. (Bring up the menu, and bring up a solid white window -- you'll notice that on VG278H, the whites in the window is never as bright as the whites in the OSD popup menu). So no clipping is done (yet), even though the colors are beng compressed in the gamma. The XL2411T and VG248QE starts clipping whites, however. So you might not be able to gain the expanded color gamut like you can on a VG278H.
 
The colors are far worse with the new driver, the VG248QE has one upped it self! The VG248QE's pre 320.18 driver lightboost colors were the worst I had ever seen, now the post 320.18 driver colors are even worse! Congratulations!

 
Ah yes I have tested this new driver, but on a side monitor XL2720T which now has far better picture quality than the VG248QE both in LB mode. ;) The QE seems all faded and bleached out now with the BenQ looking far superior. The crimson tint is pretty much gone now, but the BenQ looks much more like a normal non-LB monitor side-by-side versus the Asus.
 
Has anyone tested that BenQ in 3d? Does it have the same artifacts as the Asus VG278he?
 
Vega said:
Ah yes I have tested this new driver, but on a side monitor XL2720T which now has far better picture quality than the VG248QE both in LB mode. ;) The QE seems all faded and bleached out now with the BenQ looking far superior. The crimson tint is pretty much gone now, but the BenQ looks much more like a normal non-LB monitor side-by-side versus the Asus.
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Are you reversing your stance between the quality of the VG248QE vs the XL2720T now or is this entirely based on a bump in the road driver wise and not the panels themselves? I think you said the XL2720T had many more reports of dead pixels and other things and you thought it was overall a worse/cheaper mfg'd panel. People may have been saying it had the single afterimage ghost the ASUS VG278H and ASUS VG278HE have also.
 
XL2720T is greatly improved with the new driver. The picture quality is difinitely better than the Asus QE but it is true, the Asus LB motion clarity is better due to less apparent afterimage. It just depends on where you put priority and what panel size you like.
 
does anyone know if the BenQ XL2420T is using heavy anti glare coating or light?

I am looking to buy it just for gaming but I cant stand monitors with heavy anti glare coating.
 
All of the newer matte 120-144hz monitors have heavy AG
 
elvn said:
Are you reversing your stance between the quality of the VG248QE vs the XL2720T now or is this entirely based on a bump in the road driver wise and not the panels themselves? I think you said the XL2720T had many more reports of dead pixels and other things and you thought it was overall a worse/cheaper mfg'd panel. People may have been saying it had the single afterimage ghost the ASUS VG278H and ASUS VG278HE have also.
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The VG278H doesn't have a significant afterimage, provided you use a Contrast of 65-75% and it's the original "H" model rather than the "HE" model. ("HR" is uknown). Although my BENQ has less afterimage, the VG278H is now my primary monitor again simply because of better out-of-box LightBoost color quality.

I think this is what Vega is seeing -- the XL2720T now has much better LightBoost color quality now with the new driver. I'd say the VG278H (old original, not newer HE) and XL2720T are the two LightBoost monitors with the best color quality now. But of course, slightly worse afterimage (but not as bad as XL2420T or VG278HE). It's apparently technically possible to break 750:1 contrast ratio with LightBoost with the VG278H; something I haven't seen done with VG248QE's.
 
Vega said:
XL2720T is greatly improved with the new driver. The picture quality is difinitely better than the Asus QE but it is true, the Asus LB motion clarity is better due to less apparent afterimage. It just depends on where you put priority and what panel size you like.
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Would you still recommend a surround set-up with the QE's, or would you now change your opinion?
 
Vega said:
I still use me 3x QE setup for the fastest LB.
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And if you were starting over, would you go for three debezelled XL2720T's?
I must admit that 940:1 in LightBoost mode, practically eliminates most of the LightBoost color quality compromises. But the low-density 27" 1080p may not make good portrait gaming...
 
Yes, 3x 27" IMO is too big. I would still get the QE's or maybe 3x 11T, not sure how that one was affected by the recent drivers.
 
I just got this monitor and coming from a 27in Asus which I thought was great but was 60hz... I am blown away by the 144hz response time even in windows! In games it is a huge difference... I thought it was all hype before.

Playing BF3 in 3D is also amazing. I wish more games would be 3D such as Crysis and CS:GO (3D ready not just GOOD quality)

I want to make sure I am using the monitor to its fullest. I have the following going:

1) I am using Displayport instead of dual DVI. Does this matter?
2) I set tracefree on OSD to 80 as I read this has the most reduced input lag. I now read that when using 144hz, TraceFree 40 is the best. What are others putting this to?
3) Using standard splendid mode. The game mode makes edges too 'edgy'.
4) Color is kind of bad like most already know, should I use ICC or just leave it as is?

Does 3D only use 120hz and not 144hz?

Thanks all.
 
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Bofeity said:
Does 3D only use 120hz and not 144hz?
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Correct. Also, 3D mode uses LightBoost (which is also useful for 2D motion blur elimination). Fortunately, LightBoost 120Hz has less motion blur than non-LightBoost 144 Hz:

motion-blur-graph.png


So if you want less motion blur -- even when just gaming without 3D glasses -- run at 120Hz+LightBoost, instead of 144Hz (no LightBoost).
 
Using NCX's ICC profile for 144hz is great.

But do I need the 2D lightboost and 3D ICC profiles as well? That makes 3 profiles.. so would I have to switch the ICC profile when I want to game in 2D with lightboost as well as change the contrast setting on OSD and then back again when I am at desktop with 144hz? Seems like a lot of work...
 
Mark Rejhon said:
Correct. Also, 3D mode uses LightBoost (which is also useful for 2D motion blur elimination). Fortunately, LightBoost 120Hz has less motion blur than non-LightBoost 144 Hz:

motion-blur-graph.png


So if you want less motion blur -- even when just gaming without 3D glasses -- run at 120Hz+LightBoost, instead of 144Hz (no LightBoost).
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Hi Mark. Yes I saw on your website the same graph.

My question is, I have the emitter and glasses to play games in regular 3D which is great. If I want to play 2D with lightboost and make sure it's working right, when I am in a game my VQ278QE on it's OSD will say 3d-MODE and run at 120hz, I also went and changed the lightboost to one-click above OFF. Is this a way to ensure 2D lightboost and CRT quality is working?
 
Bofeity said:
My question is, I have the emitter and glasses to play games in regular 3D which is great. If I want to play 2D with lightboost and make sure it's working right, when I am in a game my VQ278QE on it's OSD will say 3d-MODE and run at 120hz, I also went and changed the lightboost to one-click above OFF. Is this a way to ensure 2D lightboost and CRT quality is working?
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If it says "3D Mode", then LightBoost is enabled.
LightBoost is always enabled when in "3D Mode".

If you're trying to visually measure motion blur, try a motion test.
You can also drag windows around, and/or use smooth scrolling utilities (e.g. Chromium Smooth Scroller extension for Google Chrome).

Advanced Tip: (If input lag is a concern) Whenever you want to play LightBoost in 2D only mode; I would highly advise you to disable the "3D Stereoscopic" checkbox in Control Panel -- because disabling checkbox reduces 2D LightBoost input lag. To easily enable LightBoost without stereoscopic 3D, use the ToastyX lightboost.bin method. This produces faster 2D LightBoost without the extra input lag of the 3D stereoscopic overhead. Also, if you lose the 144Hz setting, you can re-add 144Hz via ToastyX (use "Reduced" instead of "Auto"). Whenever you want your 3D glasses again, just re-enable the "3D Stereoscopic" checkbox in Control Panel.
 
Mark Rejhon said:
If it says "3D Mode", then LightBoost is enabled.
LightBoost is always enabled when in "3D Mode".

If you're trying to visually measure motion blur, try a motion test.
You can also drag windows around, and/or use smooth scrolling utilities (e.g. Chromium Smooth Scroller extension for Google Chrome).

Advanced Tip: (If input lag is a concern) Whenever you want to play LightBoost in 2D only mode; I would highly advise you to disable the "3D Stereoscopic" checkbox in Control Panel -- because disabling checkbox reduces 2D LightBoost input lag. To easily enable LightBoost without stereoscopic 3D, use the ToastyX lightboost.bin method. This produces faster 2D LightBoost without the extra input lag of the 3D stereoscopic overhead. Also, if you lose the 144Hz setting, you can re-add 144Hz via ToastyX (use "Reduced" instead of "Auto"). Whenever you want your 3D glasses again, just re-enable the "3D Stereoscopic" checkbox in Control Panel.
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The NVidia control panel under the 3D settings has an option to set 3D mode to ALWAYS so now the lightboost is on at 120hz at desktop and I suppose games and everything... isn't this easier than having to deal with 144hz and going back and forth to 120 lightboost?

Is there any problem having this setting set on always?

The ToastyX stuff and .bin methods are for when you don't have an emitter... I have one so I shouldn't need to do that right?
 
For reducing input lag during LightBoost 2D, what you want to do is keep stereoscopic enabled in the monitor side -- but disabled in the computer side.

In other words for LightBoost 2D performance with the least input lag, your computer needs to think that stereoscopic is disabled, while keeping the monitor OSD still saying "3D Mode".
 
Mark Rejhon said:
For reducing input lag during LightBoost 2D, what you want to do is keep stereoscopic enabled in the monitor side -- but disabled in the computer side.

In other words for LightBoost 2D performance with the least input lag, your computer needs to think that stereoscopic is disabled, while keeping the monitor OSD still saying "3D Mode".
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Yes. I achieved this. I unchecked stereoscopic 3d in nvidia control panel and Had 3d mode on the monitor. My question is does I keep it always in this mode by doing this and adjust my color settings and Icc profile?
 
Bofeity said:
My question is does I keep it always in this mode by doing this and adjust my color settings and Icc profile?
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If you want to keep LightBoost motion blur elimination enabled at all times, then, yes you should calibrate (.icc) while in this mode.
 
For 24/7 lightboost, which I think is great. I actually ended up liking the default color settings without any ICC profile either and OSD contrast to 65 and LB 10%. I have it set to ALWAYS 3D in NVidia control panel and I think this is the best way to go for 1) always having 2D LB on for smooth windows and browsing 2) when I play in 3D just put my glasses on and hit CTRL T. I have the glasses and emitter by the way.
 
Bofeity said:
For 24/7 lightboost, which I think is great. I actually ended up liking the default color settings without any ICC profile either and OSD contrast to 65 and LB 10%. I have it set to ALWAYS 3D in NVidia control panel and I think this is the best way to go
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It's very convenient, yes.
However, that said... It adds 1 extra frame of lag to LightBoost, if you do things this way.

To eliminate this LightBoost stereoscopic input lag when you're playing non-stereoscopic, use the ToastyX LightBoost method. This will force the monitor to run in LightBoost 24/7, regardless of whether 3D is enabled or not in nVidia Control Panel. That way, you get low-lag LightBoost2D when the stereoscopic checkbox is disabled, and you can still use 3D glasses when you re-enable the checkbox.

So if you want to eliminate the majority of LightBoost input lag, you need to disable the 3D stereoscopic checkbox during LightBoost 2D.
 
Is there a lose of image quality when using lightboost? It looks like my desktop is more pixelated when I am using 2D lightboost...
 
Mark Rejhon said:
It's very convenient, yes.
However, that said... It adds 1 extra frame of lag to LightBoost, if you do things this way.

To eliminate this LightBoost stereoscopic input lag when you're playing non-stereoscopic, use the ToastyX LightBoost method. This will force the monitor to run in LightBoost 24/7, regardless of whether 3D is enabled or not in nVidia Control Panel. That way, you get low-lag LightBoost2D when the stereoscopic checkbox is disabled, and you can still use 3D glasses when you re-enable the checkbox.

So if you want to eliminate the majority of LightBoost input lag, you need to disable the 3D stereoscopic checkbox during LightBoost 2D.
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How can there really be input lag with having the box checked? Are there tests for this? I don't want to do any of the hacking methods. So I trying to avoid them. I don't really think some ridiculous 1 added frame of anything is going to do anything...
 
Bofeity said:
How can there really be input lag with having the box checked? Are there tests for this? I don't want to do any of the hacking methods. So I trying to avoid them. I don't really think some ridiculous 1 added frame of anything is going to do anything...
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VSYNC ON is forced with 3D Stereoscopic. Notice how you can never run >120fps if you have the 3D stereoscopic checkbox enabled?

That said, I prefer VSYNC ON anyway for most solo gaming -- fluidity looks better -- but it may be an issue for some competitive game players (in a "shoot simultaneously; the person who shoots a tiny bit sooner wins" scenario)
 
Bofeity said:
Is there a lose of image quality when using lightboost? It looks like my desktop is more pixelated when I am using 2D lightboost...
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Yes, there's some loss of image quality.
You're exchanging the color quality for the motion blur elimination, since you are now pushing the LCD's limits harder.
Loss of color quality can be more major on some displays (e.g. VG248QE's) and more minor on other displays (e.g. ASUS VG278H and BENQ XL2720T).

Also, drivers can have a major effect on LightBoost image quality.
The new 320.18 drivers greatly improved XL2720T colors during LightBoost, but worsened VG248QE colors during LightBoost.
 
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