Zalman CNPS9700LED

L

Lamont Cranston

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
846
I just bought one of these and it comes with Super Thermal Grease......Originally i was just going to use my Artic Silver 5 but i figured if Zalman ships thermal grease with it it must be decent.....I was just wanting to see what some of you thought before i stuck it on tomorrow night???
 
wont matter, its fair stuff from what I have read.

If I had the AS5 open, I would use it and save the zalman stuff still sealed up in my junk drawer for the day I ran out of AS5 and forgot to order more or to replace the paste under a MCH/NB chip or something not a critical.

If both are unopened - I probally would still use the AS5 just so at 3:00am I would not wake up and spend 2 hours staring at the ceiling and wondering if I had done the right thing and worrying about all the effort to change out the paste and remount it.
 
lol thanks for the reply, that is pretty much the way i am leaning.......this thing is massive, i hope it was worth the money!
 
the 9700 is a good cooler. I had one and it worked great.
 
AS5 is a bit better (just a couple of ºC lower), if you have plenty of cash to spare buy it, if not, the Zalman one is just fine.
 
be sure to check back later on today and tomorrow as i will be mounting it to a P5B Deluxe cooling a C2D 6600 with 2 gigs of Corsair 8500 ram.....im shooting for 3.4 to 3.6 on my overclock.
 
I used the grease that came with my Zalman 9700NT and was abit apprehensive at first as ive always used as5.

At the mo my E6600 at 3.4GHz is idling at 34c,altho it is pretty warm tonight.

The Zalman grease is much easier to apply so i think i`ll be using this in the future.
 
That is some good news, i have been reading the manual for the cooler here at work and watched a video on how to install it and it seems as though the Zalman grease comes with a paint brush type applicator....makes it easier for more uniform coverage.
 
ya, I was un-aware when i ordered my zalman 9700 that it came wiht grease so I ordered the AS5 with it. But this coolers is very nice, keeps my e6600 overclocked to [email protected] idle at 36C
 
I used the Zalman grease, and I idle in the high 20's with my x2 3600 brisbane @ 3.0ghz.

Must not be that bad :)

Good Luck,
Josh
 
well because i forgot to make a raid driver disk at work, im not in windows yet (and i dont have a spare pc at home) but for S's n G's i cranked my rig up to 400 mhz fsb in a 1:1 ratio putting the CPU at 3.6 ghz and in the bios it was showing 42C and then i tested the system running with an 8 multiplier at 425 fsb which put the ram at 1700 quad pumped and the cpu at 3.41 with the same 42C

I have adjusted the fan speed up and down and the temps seem to stay about the same so im guessing its staying sufficiently cool.....now i just have to get into windows and put a load on that bad boy and see what is stable
 
distortion69 said:
I used the Zalman grease, and I idle in the high 20's with my x2 3600 brisbane @ 3.0ghz.

Must not be that bad :)

Good Luck,
Josh
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What are you using to monitor temps? My brizzy idles in the low 30's at stock speed according to bios.
 
Well the good news is it keeps the E6600 at 3.6 ghz at around 58C on cores and 68C on cpu at load but the problem is the system randomly reboots but seemingly not because of the CPU load as when i was running orthos it seemed stable but it was randomly rebooting during windows updates.....so right now its running at a cool 3.12 ghz and it idles in the low 30's
 
I am considering getting a 9700, but the NT version. What I would like to know is that, unlike the LED version, the NT has PWM control. Can someone explain to me what that means? :confused:
 
To control the speed of a d.c. motor we need a variable voltage d.c. power source. However if you take a 12v motor and switch on the power to it, the motor will start to speed up: motors do not respond immediately so it will take a small time to reach full speed. If we switch the power off sometime before the motor reaches full speed, then the motor will start to slow down. If we switch the power on and off quickly enough, the motor will run at some speed part way between zero and full speed. This is exactly what a p.w.m. controller does: it switches the motor on in a series of pulses. To control the motor speed it varies (modulates) the width of the pulses - hence Pulse Width Modulation.
 
I have same cooler on my fx 60 at 2860.I idle at 52 with a vcore of 1.42. I'm kind of on the fence with this cooler plus it take up a lot of space. I just bought a e6600 some muskin ram and I'm still researching a mobo choice. This time i went with the Tuniq tower 120. The Zalman is a good cooler but just not the best. Then again my house is quite warm this time of year and my case wiring isn't perfect either.
 
Lamont Cranston said:
To control the speed of a d.c. motor we need a variable voltage d.c. power source. However if you take a 12v motor and switch on the power to it, the motor will start to speed up: motors do not respond immediately so it will take a small time to reach full speed. If we switch the power off sometime before the motor reaches full speed, then the motor will start to slow down. If we switch the power on and off quickly enough, the motor will run at some speed part way between zero and full speed. This is exactly what a p.w.m. controller does: it switches the motor on in a series of pulses. To control the motor speed it varies (modulates) the width of the pulses - hence Pulse Width Modulation.
Click to expand...

And whats the advantage of this over the non-pwm 9700 :confused:
 
well the 9700LED is pure copper and the NT is aluminum and copper and is advertised to have a near silent mode. My speculation is it helps with keeping it quiet at low rpms - but im just a computer nerd not an electrical engineer so i could be way off
 
9700 is an amazing cooler, keeps my e6600 (oc'd to 3.6ghz, 1.5v) ice cold. Runs at 31~32 idle, and 57~58 full load.

I used the stuff that came with it, because I didn't want to spend an extra 10 bucks just to get some arctic silver which I didn't even know if it would be any better. Well it turns out it worked even better than arctic silver imo.

If anyone wants to know the secret to getting it put on just right though... it looks and applies just like nail polish, so I had my sister do it :D
 
Well i don't know whats wrong with mine. On stock voltages, mine runs idle at 45 and when gaming, about 52. Im really disappointed. I wish I knew what the problem was. You know somethings wrong when ppl are getting 34 degrees at a 3.4 ghz overclock...Ambient temp in the room is about 75 Fahrenheit, whatever that converts to.
 
e6700 here currently at 3.2ghz 1.4 volts. Idle 29-30 and gaming about 45-50. Was running 3.6ghz 1.51v until recently and it would idle at 35 and full orthos load at 65.

edit: I am using a Thermaltake Tsunami with an additional thermaltake 120mm intake in a kama bay 5.25 enclosure that blows air directly into the zalman.
 
Teronzhul said:
e6700 here currently at 3.2ghz 1.4 volts. Idle 29-30 and gaming about 45-50. Was running 3.6ghz 1.51v until recently and it would idle at 35 and full orthos load at 65.

edit: I am using a Thermaltake Tsunami with an additional thermaltake 120mm intake in a kama bay 5.25 enclosure that blows air directly into the zalman.
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Wow, why arn't I getting in the low 30's with mine? What are you using to get the temperature readings? I'm using Nvidia monitor.
 
Kramerican said:
Well i don't know whats wrong with mine. On stock voltages, mine runs idle at 45 and when gaming, about 52. Im really disappointed. I wish I knew what the problem was. You know somethings wrong when ppl are getting 34 degrees at a 3.4 ghz overclock...Ambient temp in the room is about 75 Fahrenheit, whatever that converts to.
Click to expand...

Kramerican said:
Wow, why arn't I getting in the low 30's with mine? What are you using to get the temperature readings? I'm using Nvidia monitor.
Click to expand...

Dude I have a very similar problem to you - my CPU idles at about 39-42 @ stock - that's with BIOS, PC Probe and Speedfan.

TAT and Coretemp however report about 8 degrees lower. :confused:

I just thought 'fuck it' and went to trust Coretemp. (which you should try)

Maybe that the air cumulation is poor in your case, though the case seems to have a few fans so... I dono - try Coretemp and see if it says otherwise...
 
Koko56 said:
Dude I have a very similar problem to you - my CPU idles at about 39-42 @ stock - that's with BIOS, PC Probe and Speedfan.
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Now why would you purchase a 9700LED and not OC? Sort of like putting a blower and turbocharger on your car but driving at 35 mph :p
 
Lamont Cranston said:
Now why would you purchase a 9700LED and not OC? Sort of like putting a blower and turbocharger on your car but driving at 35 mph :p
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Yeah, :D, but I first wanna get the Kama Bay cooler to improve the airflow a bit so that (hopefully) the temps will get lowered by a few degrees.

I also can't get my RAM down to 533 (well not from BIOS), because when I get to 2.7 the RAM is @ 750:eek:, and it being value RAM I really really don't wanna push it... it is however stable and has not crashed once when I OC'd my CPU for STALKER, still I wanna try to downclock the RAM to 533 first and try, which I might do now! :D
 
Kramerican said:
Wow, why arn't I getting in the low 30's with mine? What are you using to get the temperature readings? I'm using Nvidia monitor.
Click to expand...

I use speedfan normally because I can use it to display temps on my g15. I have used Speedfan, Coretemp, and the Bios to compare and they all show similar readings.
 
Is there any way to kill the led on the fan in this thing or replace the fan with another one? The only thing stopping me from grabbing this is the leds. I won't have any leds anywhere else in the case and don't want any.
 
GigantoR said:
Is there any way to kill the led on the fan in this thing or replace the fan with another one? The only thing stopping me from grabbing this is the leds. I won't have any leds anywhere else in the case and don't want any.
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Yea i didn't want it either. But as far as I know, there is no way.
 
Kramerican said:
Yea i didn't want it either. But as far as I know, there is no way.
Click to expand...

Maybe a googleing session will help? Because I think that I've read somewhere that you can disable it... though I'm really not entirely sure on that one.
 
you can always cut the trace on the small PCB that powers the LED. You may damage the fan in the process though, never tried on mine.
 
GigantoR said:
Is there any way to kill the led on the fan in this thing or replace the fan with another one? The only thing stopping me from grabbing this is the leds. I won't have any leds anywhere else in the case and don't want any.
Click to expand...

Its not verry bright , it just glows blue.
 
aggr1103 said:
What are you using to monitor temps? My brizzy idles in the low 30's at stock speed according to bios.
Click to expand...


Sorry for the delayed response!

I am using EVEREST.. 45C under load for extended periods of time (anything past 20 minutes) with fan all the way up. 28-29C at idle. I'm not 100% sure how accurate everest is, but speedfan is WAY off. Everest reads similar to bios idle speeds.

Thanks,
Josh
 
teh leds make it cool better. honestly though this cooler is so overpriced and based on most reviews it runs just the same as the sotck intel hsf.
 
Yeah, the Zalman 9700 (LED model) is a bit on the expensive side and it has been tested numerous times and beaten by 2c or 3c (I think for a 200w test, I try to run cooler than that, by a Ultra 120 HSF. Now that I've clarified that let me say this : (a) I fold 24/7 (b) I have 3X Zalman 9700 HSF's and (c) I have a Tuniq 120 HSF in my closet collecting dust right now. I like a cooler that is easy to reset, looks impressive and blows down on the rest of the mobo's chipsets. So far the Zalman 9700's have been fantastic in these areas. NOT to say there aren't any other HSF's that have the same capabilities, I just like the "bling" of the Zalman's best. (I have windowed cases) I also have a TT Big Typhoon with a Yate Loon D12SM-120mm fan. I have it on my E6420 with no complaints, another good air cooler in my book. I have 2X E6600's both are OC'ed to 3 GHz (333 FSB), both have a 1.235v vcore and both are on TForce P965 mobos. The "air cooled" one has a Zalman 9700 HSF (LED) and the WC'ed one has a Apoogee WB, a MCP350 WP, a MCR220 rad (4X fans) At the same ambient temp (read by a indoor/outdoor thermometer) and cpu temps read by TAT, Core Temp, SpeedFan, RightMark CPU Utility and BIOS the WC'er bests the "air cooler" by about 3c to 4c on a good day. Lately the WC'er has had a 7c edge, but that was when my ambient temps got close to <20c (a little chilly) The "air cooler" is in a Antec 900 with a "zillion fans" and the WC'er is in a "no name" case with just chip set cooling fans (NB, SB, video card), a 120mm front intake and a 120mm back exhaust. I installed all but the WB in an old case I had and run the cpu/WB lines through my case and grommett them. Doing it that way I could leak check it for 24 hours in the shower.
Just on a side note the Big Typhoon is keeping my E6420 quite cool. I was going to change it out with the E6400, but there's really no use. (it's only OC'ed to 2.4 GHz, yeah I know what a waste) I honestly think if I hadn't been exposed to WC'ing I would just have been satisfied with the Zalman 9700's. I know, I don't OC' to extremes so I probably don't need WC'ing, even if I'm planning on getting a Q6600 after the price drops and OC' it to 3 GHz (333 FSB, I hope at stock vcore) But I'm a convert now and I do love my WC'ing :p
 
the stock cooler costs 0$ and offers the same performance. This "heat pipe" technology is a gimmick, did they actually run engineering tests for it or they just slapped on copper pipes and placed a rediculous price tag?
 
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