Xigmatek S1283

Riccochet

Riccochet

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Apr 11, 2007
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What's the best place to buy the Xigmatek S1283 and Thernalright bolt-thru kit?

Well, scratch that. I can get the cooler at Newegg for $37.

It's the bolt-thru kit I'm having trouble locating. Petra's is out of stock. SVC is out. Newegg doesn't carry it. Can't find it on Xoxide's site.
 
Oh damn....didn't realize that Xigmatek made their own bolt-thru kit. Thanks for the linkage!
 
Prices seem to fluctuate a LOT on this bolt thru kit. I've seen it as low as $6, but I guess $8 with free shipping isn't bad. Add yourself to the notification and be ready to buy when they are available. Personally I would hold off on buying the S1283 until you can get the bolt thru kit. I tried using the pins that comes with it out of the box and OMG I will never do that again. I did it only because my buddy forgot to buy the bolt thru kit and was too cheap to buy it. I said screw this and bought it for him since I was helping him do the build (I made him buy me a very nice dinner).
 
Why not just a get a dark knight? Its 45 at the egg and cheaper then buying the cooler and bolt through kit, Also looks 10x better and you will save on shipping :cool:
 
Casper312 said:
Why not just a get a dark knight? Its 45 at the egg and cheaper then buying the cooler and bolt through kit, Also looks 10x better and you will save on shipping :cool:
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I care little about looks, performance is what matters. The S1283 is proven to be quite effective. Second only to the TRU120E.
 
you dont need one for AM2.. it doesnt suffer the shitty mounting setup like intels have.. and even so the kit probably comes with an alternate mounting system for am2..
 
HydroBudz said:
I care little about looks, performance is what matters. The S1283 is proven to be quite effective. Second only to the TRU120E.
Click to expand...

The dark knight is the same thing performance wise, and a bit better according to frosty than the original s1283.
 
Casper312 said:
The dark knight is the same thing performance wise, and a bit better according to frosty than the original s1283.
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Is it just anodized black, or is that some other kind of coating? Looking at the base it would make me want to lap it. I'd prefer copper to copper contact with my proc,which is lapped.

Still cheaper to buy the 1283 from directron and the retension bracket from the egg.
 
See thats if your smart and look around, Since most people just turn to newegg and miss it.

To answer your question, here is a quote from xiggys site

Dark Knight-S1283 retains the brilliant record of HDT-S1283 family - powerful, outstanding, high performing and user friendly. The Black Nickel creates a very gentle and noble image, which also increases
cooling performance. Like other H.D.T. series
coolers, it comes with the advantage of light
weight, easy installation, anti-vibration,
performance and user friendly.
Click to expand...

Black Nickel causes a very gentle but also noble image, which also increases cooling performance.
Click to expand...
 
I got the bolt thru kit from Sidewinder. If you change the shipping to first class mail, you can get it for 6.98 shipped. Not to bad and I got it fast. Will the s1283 work with that 1366 bracket? That will be nice when we all switch to i7 eventually so we can use the same cooler again. ;)
 
From what I've read around that nickle coating actually hinders performance. The standard HDT-S1283 actually performed better on higher wattage CPU's.

I think I'll stick with the standard 1283. Cheaper.
 
The mounting bracket is exactly the same as a Tuniq Tower's, if anyone is making that switch.
 
Yep I actually got 2 when I made my order from Sidewinder. My brother has the Tuniq Tower and accidently left his bracket on the mobo when he had to send it in because of a failed bios flash. It works perfect for it too, but you have to use your original screws from the Tuniq.
 
HydroBudz said:
From what I've read around that nickle coating actually hinders performance.
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Nickel plating does not effect performance at all. The layer is so thin that it does not cause any change in the thermal transfer properties of the heatsink base. Thermalright has been plating their copper bases for years now with no ill effect.
 
Zero82z said:
Nickel plating does not effect performance at all. The layer is so thin that it does not cause any change in the thermal transfer properties of the heatsink base. Thermalright has been plating their copper bases for years now with no ill effect.
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Haha, right, the ill effect comes from the piss poor finish they had on the TRUE. :D
 
Zero82z said:
Nickel plating does not effect performance at all. The layer is so thin that it does not cause any change in the thermal transfer properties of the heatsink base. Thermalright has been plating their copper bases for years now with no ill effect.
Click to expand...

Then why would reviews show the standard S1283 to perform better, even if slightly, on higher wattage loads? The only difference in design between the DK and standard is the nickel plating.

Regardless of how thin it is it's still an extra layer of material for heat to transfer through. Maybe the nickel plating on the fins, or the transfer from pipe to fin?
 
Is there a concensus on the proper way to mount this cooler, meaning airflow direction? Fan blowing toward the back of the case or blowing up? I guess it matters on which case you're using.
 
It does, any cooler can work any way its mounted, just have to have the airflow match it.
 
this xigmatech is good, but sunbeam core contac is better than this unless you use xigmatech with 2 fan on push pull.
 
Will this bolt-thru kit work with the S1283?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/lgbowiscsp.html

Looks like all I'd need to do is take the push-pins out of the stock bracket and use the screws with this kit to make it work. Can anyone verify that?

I'm being impatient and don't feel like waiting for the xigmatek kit to come in stock.
 
HydroBudz said:
Will this bolt-thru kit work with the S1283?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/lgbowiscsp.html

Looks like all I'd need to do is take the push-pins out of the stock bracket and use the screws with this kit to make it work. Can anyone verify that?

I'm being impatient and don't feel like waiting for the xigmatek kit to come in stock.
Click to expand...

Looks the same to me... I noticed my Tuniq backplate was exactly the same as my s1283 blackplate too. I say go for it.
 
HydroBudz said:
Will this bolt-thru kit work with the S1283?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/lgbowiscsp.html

Looks like all I'd need to do is take the push-pins out of the stock bracket and use the screws with this kit to make it work. Can anyone verify that?

I'm being impatient and don't feel like waiting for the xigmatek kit to come in stock.
Click to expand...

I bought this one and paired it with Xigmatek S1283, works perfectly.
 
Is there a proper way of apply TIM to the base of the S1283?

I put some on and used a credit card to mash it into the grooves between the pipes and aluminum shroud. Then put 3 small strips down each pipe before dropping it on the CPU. Does this sound about right?

Question I ask is that my temps aren't all that impressive compared to the SI-128 I had on before using this cooler. I also have the bolt-thru kit installed.

Maybe I should take it off and remount the thing. Any suggestions?
 
Old Hippie said:
How about this guide?

I'm not saying it's the best or only way but I just gotta help anybody with a nic like yours. :D
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Interesting guide! Thanks man! I hadn't thought about lapping the base of the cooler, but suppose I will tonight just to make sure the mating surface is flat and even. This could be why I'm not getting all that good temps. My CPU is already lapped, that's half the battle. :)

thanks again!
 
I've found the best way is to make a very thin line of compound run across the top of the heat spreader north to south. Then just drop the s1283 on top.

Lapping the cpu supposed to be good too, though lapping the bottom of a s1283 would be quite a chore.
 
SpYdeR187 said:
lapping the cooler just means sanding it down right?
Click to expand...

Just be careful of putting any chemicals on the heatpipes. I think some abrasives and/or cleaning compounds can either weaken the pipes or cause them to be more porous (or something like that--my knowledge ends there.)

Someone lapped one of these to perfection and recommended using water only. I posted a link (or pics, I forget) somewhere on this site.

[edit] Here it is:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/248759-29-xigmatek-s1283-lapped
 
SpYdeR187 said:
lapping the cooler just means sanding it down right?
Click to expand...

In a nutshell. There's a bit more to it though. If you're going to lap, you better do it right or you'll be wasting your time. First you need to have a hard, level surface to work on. You can mark lines on the surface of your heatsink with a Sharpie, usually an X and maybe a line across, and do a few passes of sandpaper. Then look at the marks and see where the sandpaper didn't touch. This helps you show how concave or convex the heatsink's surface is. You can use a razor blade to see the levelness of the surface, but the Sharpie marks offer visible indication that you can continue to reference.

Most people start with low-grit sandpaper and work up to high-grit. They also like to spread a little soapy water to help with shine and such.
 
I only lap with water. sometimes if i'm having a hard time getting the heatsink base to move (it studders across the sandpaper) I'll add a drop of kitchen soap to the water to help break the surface tension and keep the sandpaper wet. Chemicals are a no-no in my book.

I'll take pics tonight and update this thread.
 
Well, I just got back from the hospital and I'm all doped up on vicodin. I don't think I'll be tearing apart my system tonight. Tomorrow for sure.
 
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