Weird issue with H100i + 4790K

MavericK

Zero Cool
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Sep 2, 2004
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So, I have been using the H100i with my 4790K for about 6 years now, always worked fine. Temps usually got up into the 70s or 80s with a 4.6ghz overclock.

Recently I replaced the fans on the rad with something a bit stronger. Idle temps stayed the same, but now with my overclock the temps quickly climb into the 90s and then BSOD. I bumped back down to stock and temps are fine now, even while timing l running a game. Obviously I'd like to reinstate the overclock, but what the heck happened? Literally did not unplug or otherwise change the AIO setup other than moving it around a bit to mount the new fans. I thought maybe it was a pump issue, but the pump claims it's running through the Corsair Link software, and temps stay reasonable at stock speeds.

Is the cooler going? I guess they last about 5 years and it's been in use for 6 or so.
 

E4g1e

Supreme [H]ardness
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So, I have been using the H100i with my 4790K for about 6 years now, always worked fine. Temps usually got up into the 70s or 80s with a 4.6ghz overclock.

Recently I replaced the fans on the rad with something a bit stronger. Idle temps stayed the same, but now with my overclock the temps quickly climb into the 90s and then BSOD. I bumped back down to stock and temps are fine now, even while timing l running a game. Obviously I'd like to reinstate the overclock, but what the heck happened? Literally did not unplug or otherwise change the AIO setup other than moving it around a bit to mount the new fans. I thought maybe it was a pump issue, but the pump claims it's running through the Corsair Link software, and temps stay reasonable at stock speeds.

Is the cooler going? I guess they last about 5 years and it's been in use for 6 or so.
The cooler is on the verge of complete failure at this point. You see, AIO liquid coolers have a maximum useful life of only about five years total.
 

MavericK

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The cooler is on the verge of complete failure at this point. You see, AIO liquid coolers have a maximum useful life of only about five years total.

That's kind of what I was afraid of, but also not surprising given what I have heard elsewhere. I guess the liquid starts to permeate the tubing after 5 years or so. It's just weird that it was working flawlessly and then swapping out the fans killed it. I guess maybe I bent the tubing around a bit and that caused some sort of issue internally.

As for a replacement - Kraken X63 seems to be pretty well reviewed? I could also use it once I upgrade later this year.

I've also considered something air-based like the NH-D15, but I am unsure about whether or not it will clear my RAM.
 

Aegir

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That's kind of what I was afraid of, but also not surprising given what I have heard elsewhere. I guess the liquid starts to permeate the tubing after 5 years or so. It's just weird that it was working flawlessly and then swapping out the fans killed it. I guess maybe I bent the tubing around a bit and that caused some sort of issue internally.

As for a replacement - Kraken X63 seems to be pretty well reviewed? I could also use it once I upgrade later this year.

I've also considered something air-based like the NH-D15, but I am unsure about whether or not it will clear my RAM.

I've got the same one.

If bending the tubes cracked it, then you're doomed!
But it could be something less bad. For instance, mine did actually stop working at some point, and so I completely opened it up.
I found some hard little gritty bits inside, so after cleaning it up, I ****PAINSTAKINGLY*** refilled it by hand with some automotive radiator fluid, mixed with distilled water.

Now it works great.

~

Oh, and make sure the tube exits/entrances are in the right position.
I think GamersNexus did a really long and boring video about this recently. Check it out if you've had some coffee.
 

MavericK

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I've got the same one.

If bending the tubes cracked it, then you're doomed!
But it could be something less bad. For instance, mine did actually stop working at some point, and so I completely opened it up.
I found some hard little gritty bits inside, so after cleaning it up, I ****PAINSTAKINGLY*** refilled it by hand with some automotive radiator fluid, mixed with distilled water.

Now it works great.

~

Oh, and make sure the tube exits/entrances are in the right position.
I think GamersNexus did a really long and boring video about this recently. Check it out if you've had some coffee.

Thanks for the heads-up. I might give this a try in my limited spare time, but for the time being I will probably just replace it with something that can also work for the next mobo/cpu combo I end up getting.
 

Aegir

Limp Gawd
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415
Thanks for the heads-up. I might give this a try in my limited spare time, but for the time being I will probably just replace it with something that can also work for the next mobo/cpu combo I end up getting.

Depends on your wealth probably.

Just buy a new AIO if you've got the funds, or install a fully custom loop.
Chill your CPU, your GPU, and even your soundcard, right? =p
 

Aegir

Limp Gawd
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Don't forget to offer up your broken AIO in the "Freebies" thread, if you get a new one. Some one might get use out of it if they're willing to fix it up.
 
Last edited:

pendragon1

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yeah ive refurb'd a couple of these same way aegir says. one is ~10yrs and working great. you may have also shifted the block if you put any pressure on the tube and if the rad got lower that the pump air may have traveled into it.
 

MavericK

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I wonder if you simply dislodged some air bubbles in the radiator when replacing fans and they're currently stuck in the pump/heatplate area now.

Is there any way to fix that without disassembling the thing?
 

pendragon1

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Is there any way to fix that without disassembling the thing?
take the block off and hang it lower than the rad then run it for a few minutes. or if you can rotate the case in a way to get the rad up high should work too.
 

MavericK

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take the block off and hang it lower than the rad then run it for a few minutes. or if you can rotate the case in a way to get the rad up high should work too.

It's already running at the top of the case, with the block below it - that's how it's always been used. I don't think the rad ever went lower than the block even with the work that I did.
 

pendragon1

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It's already running at the top of the case, with the block below it - that's how it's always been used. I don't think the rad ever went lower than the block even with the work that I did.
if you laid the case on its side to change the fans and the rad was always higher than the block, it should be good. then i would look at the mount as it may have shifted if you put any force on the tubes. if not, then it could be a clog but youd feel one of the tubes getting real hot. also, what fans did you replace the oems with?
 

MavericK

Zero Cool
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if you laid the case on its side to change the fans and the rad was always higher than the block, it should be good. then i would look at the mount as it may have shifted if you put any force on the tubes. if not, then it could be a clog but youd feel one of the tubes getting real hot. also, what fans did you replace the oems with?

I already had some aftermarket Noctuas on there, i just replaced them with some higher-RPM Noctuas. I'll see if I can get inside the case and feel the tubing to see if there's a hotspot.
 

MavericK

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I forgot to update this - didn't notice any issues with the AIO but temps still sucked. I ended up replacing with a Noctua D15 which works great.

I may throw the AIO on a spare machine and troubleshoot further, not sure yet.
 
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