Water cooling loop issue.

They shouldnt sell this shit if it just going to gunk up after a few months.

WATERCOOL-Jakob said:
For your original problem, there seem to be several reasons that could potentially be at work here:
- You chose a very old block. The Heatkiller3.0 was released in 2008. While it's still a potent piece of hardware, combining it with Intel's latest gen Extreme edition seems a bit harsh :D
- You mounted the block the wrong way round. We recommend using the central port as inlet, and the UPPER port as outlet. The HK3.0 had a dead end on the other side of the out-port. I assume that you have two serious air bubbles on that end. Try flipping the block around so that the outlet is ABOVE your inlet, this should seriously improve your thermals.
- If I understand you correctly, you are using Mayhems Aurora. This fluid comes with multiple warnings that it's a show fluid and not intended for daily use, or for inexperienced customers. This fluid uses small floating particles that are well known to clog every microstructure. The HK3.0 used not only 0.3mm wide microchannels, but also a complex jetplate design (CHeck out the pics in this review from back 2009). I would assume that both structures are already pretty heavily clogged.

In conclusion, here is what I would suggest: open and clean the block thoroughly, mount it the other way round, and use distilled water with a corrosion inhibitor as fluid. These three simple steps should drastically improve your thermals.


(And, although an EK block is none of my business: I would recommend plumbing that the other way round, too. Should also0 improve both thermals and flow.)
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Thanks for the advise. I'll give it a go. I did disassemble the CPU block and seemed pretty good. I scrubbed with a tooth brush just in case. With the Ek block do you mean 1 going into the bottom and going out the top?
 
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vegeta535 said:
They shouldnt sell this shit if it just going to gunk up after a few months.


Thanks for the advise. I'll give it a go. I did disassemble the CPU block and seemed pretty good. I scrubbed with a tooth brush just in case. With the Ek block do you mean 1 going into the bottom and going out the top?
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As for Aurora: it is a great product if used in its intended use-cases. With all due respect, I'd think it's up to the customer to research and read about the desired products before putting them together. All required information is out there. You wouldn't try to stick a Ryzen CPU into an 1151 socket, so I'd recommend using the same level of due diligence in researching your cooling components.

Good to hear about the CPU block not being gunked up. As I said, I recommend installing it in the upright position.

For the EK block: The block you are using is using a central split flow design. It is clearly stated in the EK installation manual which port is recommended for inlet and outlet (even though their product page suggests that this is pure marketing jibberish... who knows how serious they take performance...)
 
vegeta535 said:
They shouldnt sell this shit if it just going to gunk up after a few months.
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pendragon1 said:
that's why they have warnings that's its for show only.
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I can see both sides of this. That said, I personally don't see the purpose for a "show only" fluid. I wouldn't even have thought to look for this before buying. It seems silly.

That said, I wouldn't ever buy a fancy "for looks" coolant anyway. My builds are all about performance. Looks are secondary at best.
 
Zarathustra[H] said:
I can see both sides of this. That said, I personally don't see the purpose for a "show only" fluid. I wouldn't even have thought to look for this before buying. It seems silly.

That said, I wouldn't ever buy a fancy "for looks" coolant anyway. My builds are all about performance. Looks are secondary at best.
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Yeah... I've had a dalliance with Primochill Vue, and just tried it again for a second time in my system. I never had any problems with gunking or clogging, but some of the particulate does get trapped in spaces like the acrylic window on a GPU block. I'll be going back to DI and biocide shortly, as soon as I get the gumption to tear it all down for cleaning again.
 
Thanks for the help gentlemen. Everything seem to be peachy now. CPU runs a little hot still around 70c stressing but it isn't spiking to 100c anymore. GPU running nice and cool in the mid 30s under full load. My cpu temp are proabably cause of cheaping out on the block and could seriously use a deliding also. You guys schooled me good and I appreciate it. I will replace the cpu block eventually. Also where can I get a good biocide to put in my loop?
 
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VanGoghComplex said:
Yeah... I've had a dalliance with Primochill Vue, and just tried it again for a second time in my system. I never had any problems with gunking or clogging, but some of the particulate does get trapped in spaces like the acrylic window on a GPU block. I'll be going back to DI and biocide shortly, as soon as I get the gumption to tear it all down for cleaning again.
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Yeah, when I built my rig I did wind up going with a pre-formulated coolant (EK's old Ekoolant). I didn't do this for looks (I mean, it's only a flat color anyway) but more because I panicked about EK's history with corrosion, and decided I wanted to use whatever corrosion inhibitors they test with in their own coolant. Probably not necessary, but better safe than sorry.

I didn't want to go all crazy colorful, so I got two bottles of clear Ekoolant and one bottle of blue. I figured the blue colorant would make it easier to spot any leaks during leak testing. The funny part is, even witht he blue colorant diluted much lower than they intended, it is still pretty intensely blue.

I can't help but wonder if a lot of the problems with these fancy colorful coolants is just that they go WAY overboard on the dye's compared with what is really needed to just give it some color.
 
vegeta535 said:
Thanks for the help gentlemen. Everything seem to be peachy now. CPU runs a little hot still around 70c stressing but it isn't spiking to 100c anymore. GPU running nice and cool in the mid 30s under full load. My cpu temp are proabably cause of cheaping out on the block and could seriously use a deliding also. You guys schooled me good and I appreciate it. I will replace the cpu block eventually. Also where can I get a good biocide to put in my loop?
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Glad it's all working now. 70°C isn't bad for the processor you are rocking, after all, so you might stick with this block. If you are looking to upgrade it, our Heatkiller IV improved many of the things we talked about in this thread. Might be a good candidate.

Other than that, I would advise AGAINST a simple biocide additive. First of all, bio growth is way less of a risk as many internet threads can make you believe. It happens super rarely, and only if the user made some serious mistakes beforehand. Many biocides pose significant secondary threads: silver additives, as silver kill coils, will start a galvanic corrosion against all nickel plated components in your loop (this would, essentially, peel off the nickel plating from your EWK block). ANd copper sulfate based additives can easily be so acidic that they corrode both nickel AND copper components.
Instead, I would recommend using distilled water with a corrosion inhibitor (innovatek protect and derivates, for example). All glycol based corrosion inhibitors double function as biocides, too, so you are really killing two birds with one stone.
 
WATERCOOL-Jakob said:
All glycol based corrosion inhibitors double function as biocides, too, so you are really killing two birds with one stone.
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as in antifreeze? ive used regular old green AF(~10%) for years despite people rallying against it. how do you guys feel about it?
 
WATERCOOL-Jakob said:
Glad it's all working now. 70°C isn't bad for the processor you are rocking, after all, so you might stick with this block. If you are looking to upgrade it, our Heatkiller IV improved many of the things we talked about in this thread. Might be a good candidate.

Other than that, I would advise AGAINST a simple biocide additive. First of all, bio growth is way less of a risk as many internet threads can make you believe. It happens super rarely, and only if the user made some serious mistakes beforehand. Many biocides pose significant secondary threads: silver additives, as silver kill coils, will start a galvanic corrosion against all nickel plated components in your loop (this would, essentially, peel off the nickel plating from your EWK block). ANd copper sulfate based additives can easily be so acidic that they corrode both nickel AND copper components.
Instead, I would recommend using distilled water with a corrosion inhibitor (innovatek protect and derivates, for example). All glycol based corrosion inhibitors double function as biocides, too, so you are really killing two birds with one stone.
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Good to hear from an expert on this subject.

Watercooling takes a very special subset of specialized knowledge. A combination of a special subset of fluid dynamics, metallurgy and chemistry. Even with my degree in engineering, I struggle with getting the right combination of concepts sometimes, so it's great to have someone who knows their shit in here.

With all the good info you provided you certainly earned the right to plug the Heatkiller IV (y) It certainly looks like an awesome block. It seems like the Acryl models are the more popular, as these are the only ones I've seen in use, but personally I would opt for one of the metal models, as tightening fittings into a plastic top makes me nervous.
 
VanGoghComplex said:
Yeah... I've had a dalliance with Primochill Vue, and just tried it again for a second time in my system. I never had any problems with gunking or clogging, but some of the particulate does get trapped in spaces like the acrylic window on a GPU block. I'll be going back to DI and biocide shortly, as soon as I get the gumption to tear it all down for cleaning again.
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How long did you run the Vue for?
- Against my best judgement I still want to give that a try... :dead:
 
Well the issuse was a piss port tim application from Intel. Delided the sucker and most cores don't go over the 60c.
 
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