Water Cooling Help

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05_GTO

n00b
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
15
Well I just finished building my first computher a few weeks ago and love it. Though I've decided to go ahead and water cool it. I've done some reading on it and would still like some help from the pros on what to use. This is what I'm thinking...

DD12V-D5 Pump Variable Speed

Black Ice GTX120

Danger Den Round (Cylindrical) Reservoir

Copper TDX Block for Intel 775 Processors

DD - 8800 GTS

Then as far as tubing, fittings, liquid, etc. what is suggested? Anything that is cheaper that I can/should use?

BTW the comp is...

Cooler Master Stacker Case + 7 120mm fans | OCZ 700 Watt Power Supply | EVGA NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard | Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe | EVGA GeForce 8800GTS 640MB | Western Digital Raptor 150GB 10,000 RPM & Western Digital Raptor 74GB 10,000 RPM HDD's | Kingston HyperX 4GB DDR2 (PC2 7200) | Sony DVD-RW & DVD ROM | Internal Card Reader | X-Fi XtremeGamer 7.1 Sound Card | Windows XP Pro

May not be the best install but for my first I'm happy with it :)

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=15845743&uid=1612587&members=1
 
At least get a double sized radiator. A 120mm rad is a bad choice unless you're trying an extreme SFF install and not overclocking - especially with an 8800 in the loop. Also, think about an EK GPU block, or a Fuzion/MCW60/Maze4/5 with ramsinks if money is a concern.

What's your budget?
 
I agree.. You will thank yourself later by going with atleast a double radiator.. If you plan on doing any overclocking with BOTH your CPU AND 8800, I would say a double is the very minimum.. You might even consider the triple radiator.. A GOOD triple rad can be found for around $75 bucks. I am runing the CoolingWorks triple rad and I have ZERO issues with it!

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...g_Radiator_-_UV_Blue_RS360.html?tl=g30c95s161

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...60_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s161

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...-32T_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s161


As for tubing, I am sure you know, get a good quality hose.. The .50 cent a foot special at Home Depot or Lowes just isn't going to cut it.. Primaflex or Tygon are good quality hoses.. Since you have a really good system build, I wouldn't skimp on keeping it cool.. Good flow for me is accomplished with the help of 1/2" inner diameter ~ 3/4" outer diameter primaflex hoses..
 
D-tek FuZion CPU Water Block

Swiftech MCR-220 Radiator

Swiftech MCRES-Micro

Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 Revision 2

Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump --- note: this has a 1/2" builtin fitting. so going with 1/2" barbs will save you some grief.

for tubing: remember, 1/2" ID

go with Tygon --- more expensive but practically the standard

or

Masterkleer --- note: the is 7/16" ID (inner diameter) but works fine, just a little tigher on the barbs. arguably a rival to Tygon and a lot cheaper

For liquid, honestly you don't need all that premade crap. Used distilled water (from the grocery store) and add these

1. to kill algae - biocide

2. your choice of color - Pentosin

worm clamps --- don't buy here, just to show you what it is. buy at like home depot or whatever, like 30 cents each. i know lot's of people use twisty ties or plastic clamps...depends on how risk averse you are i guess but worm clamps for me.

and just to be clear, make sure your barbs are 1/2"

everybody has their preference but I swear these are the best fans....quiet and push quite a bit of air: Yate loon 120mm -- for the rad btw.

hope this helps
 
I recommend masterkleer tubing instead.

1 bottle of pentosin is enough... you need about a 5% concentration of it.

Rest is good :)
 
Don't know if you have ordered the parts yet or not but if you can afford the fluid XP I would go for it. The added peace of mind is really nice. I pressure tested and everything for the standard 24 hours no leaks, installed and everything was fine. Lost power one night and fluid made its way around the threads of my reservoir, dripped onto the BIOS chip and that was the end of that motherboard.
 
Gyrfalcon said:
Don't know if you have ordered the parts yet or not but if you can afford the fluid XP I would go for it. The added peace of mind is really nice. I pressure tested and everything for the standard 24 hours no leaks, installed and everything was fine. Lost power one night and fluid made its way around the threads of my reservoir, dripped onto the BIOS chip and that was the end of that motherboard.
Click to expand...
I was orignaly planning on going with the Fluid XP+ Extreme - UV Midnight Blue but I've read and was told that it was not worth the money. All in all after buying the uv dye, biocide and coolant it's only $15ish more and to me if it's safer I would rather spend the extra money and get the Fluid XP.
 
05_GTO said:
I was orignaly planning on going with the Fluid XP+ Extreme - UV Midnight Blue but I've read and was told that it was not worth the money. All in all after buying the uv dye, biocide and coolant it's only $15ish more and to me if it's safer I would rather spend the extra money and get the Fluid XP.
Click to expand...

You don't need the biocide. It's really not required. I ran straight distilled water, in open sunlight, for a year... I had no algae growing in my loop.

Fluid XP has technological problems too, with gunking and blocking the pins in certain waterblocks... It loses it's non-conductivity status after a few months... Not worth it imo :eek:
 
05_GTO said:
I was orignaly planning on going with the Fluid XP+ Extreme - UV Midnight Blue but I've read and was told that it was not worth the money. All in all after buying the uv dye, biocide and coolant it's only $15ish more and to me if it's safer I would rather spend the extra money and get the Fluid XP.
Click to expand...

if you read around on the xp forums and overclockers, you'll find that nobody recommends fluid xp. as stated, it'll cause more problems than ti's worth

and all that biocide and uv dye, it'll last you a couple years, distilled water is like 69 cents a gallon :)
 
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