The WC Thread: You got questions, we got answers!

I did a search but didnt find anything,

Heres my easy question: For pump life, what does 400 L/hr really mean? I hope it dosent mean i need to get a new pump every 400 hours.

edit: n/m, it was a typo on whatever website i was researching on. Xoxide says the pump i was looking at lasts about 50,000 hours.
 
MP-05_PRO_250w.jpg


AquaXtreme MP-05 PRO Universal CPU Water Block

http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchan...duct_Code=AQX-MP05-PRO-DTN01&Category_Code=WB

Can't support socket AM2 or not? Thanks. :D
 
Someone help me find something.. Im looking for 90* bent 3/8" ID 1/2" OD G1/4 Compression fittings.

Thanks...
 
BI Pro vs. BI GTS both 120. which would be better with a yate loon. PA120.1 is too expensive but other recommendations are welcome.
 
nah but you cna use g1/4 if you use the oo rings in the storm block as well. it can work.

but please dont put elbow-ed barbs on a storm block. that would be like heresy. you'd get debowelled for that back in the old days!
 
el rolio said:
nah but you cna use g1/4 if you use the oo rings in the storm block as well. it can work.

but please dont put elbow-ed barbs on a storm block. that would be like heresy. you'd get debowelled for that back in the old days!
Click to expand...
QFT
Even if it doesn't make a cooling performance difference, don't do it. Please. Get an AquaComputer block and use elbows, but not a storm.
 
well youd better because its in the frickin thread name...

lol.

kk, so this is my first liquid cooling rig, i have taken several years of wood working, General Tech (which is what my high school calls Plastic working) and no official metal working but i know my way around a peice of sheet metal.

System Specs:

MSI K9A Platinum
X2 3800+
2gigs of Corsair DDR2 667
X1900XT 256MB (or perhalps 512mb but no differance layout wise)
Antec P180B case

anywho im looking to build a water cooling rig for the first time. (in the not tooooo distant future but its still prob about a month off) heres what im planning on doing:

all of the system below is on 3/8" tubing:
Black Ice pro II Rad (drilled and fitted to the top of the case)
MCRES-1000 5.25" bay Res/Pump
Asetek Antartica CPU block (im getting a good deal on this so unless its really a peice of crap id like to keep it)
Asetek VGA cooler
Asetek North Bridge cooler
two 1.2dm (just thought id mix things up a lil, [1.2dm = 12cm]) scythes

anyone got any problems with any of these parts? I was sorta looking at going with Swiftechs MCW Ramcool w/ swiftech MCW 60 (which only comes in 1/2"?) perhalps even with that crazy F- joing doohickey they have.
 
Kweschun: does it really matter if a jet impingement type block is in the loop directly following the pump or should the block be after the rad?
 
I have a question about the corrosion of watercoolingparts . Like i have read its not a good idea to mix diferent metals in one loop , so if the blocks are made out of copper i have to stay to copper when it comes to the radiator . If aluminum blocks its convinient to use a aluminum radiator to avoid corrosion .
OK so far so good .
Now so far as i have seen when it comes to copper radiators , the copper tubes that build the heatercore are soldered together , the fittings are either soldered or glued to the core or use fittings that are screwed on ( obviosly build out of a diferent metal , like all other fittings in the loop , if they are not plastic )
As far as i know to solder copper there are chemicals used to keep the solder fluid enough to make a good connection to the metals that is soldered together . If not cleaned properly afterwards the connection will corrode fast . I was wondering how could they clean the heatercore from the inside and make sure it is really clean .
So u can do what ever u want u definitly got diferents metals in the radiator , and how soldered connections look like after certain time ... i guess everybody knows that from the pipes in the house . It screams for corrosion .
So definetly the radiator is the weak point in any system , that causes a lot of corrosion and even may clock the whole system .

Or am i wrong ??? :confused:
 
PliotronX said:
Kweschun: does it really matter if a jet impingement type block is in the loop directly following the pump or should the block be after the rad?
Click to expand...

flow rate is constant throughout loop
 
How is this for a water cooling setup? I plan on fitting it inside a P180. Will this cool better than a Scythe Infinity w/ Yate Loon?

Danger Den TDX 3/8 ID
http://www.sharkacomputers.com/dadentdxfori.html

Thermaltake Aquabay M1
http://sharkacomputers.com/thaqm1dudrba.html

Black Ice Airplex Xtreme 3/8 ID
http://www.sharkacomputers.com/bliceaixt.html

Tygon 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD tubing
http://www.sharkacomputers.com/ty3x1clsuqut.html

Aqua Computer AC Fluid
http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcoacflnonc.html
 
I got the question , nobody got the answer ... as i can see for many questions in this threat :rolleyes:
 
game14 said:
I have a question about the corrosion of watercoolingparts . Like i have read its not a good idea to mix diferent metals in one loop , so if the blocks are made out of copper i have to stay to copper when it comes to the radiator . If aluminum blocks its convinient to use a aluminum radiator to avoid corrosion .
OK so far so good .
Now so far as i have seen when it comes to copper radiators , the copper tubes that build the heatercore are soldered together , the fittings are either soldered or glued to the core or use fittings that are screwed on ( obviosly build out of a diferent metal , like all other fittings in the loop , if they are not plastic )
As far as i know to solder copper there are chemicals used to keep the solder fluid enough to make a good connection to the metals that is soldered together . If not cleaned properly afterwards the connection will corrode fast . I was wondering how could they clean the heatercore from the inside and make sure it is really clean .
So u can do what ever u want u definitly got diferents metals in the radiator , and how soldered connections look like after certain time ... i guess everybody knows that from the pipes in the house . It screams for corrosion .
So definetly the radiator is the weak point in any system , that causes a lot of corrosion and even may clock the whole system .

Or am i wrong ??? :confused:
Click to expand...

I'm guessing they'd use some type of chemical abrasive mixture to flush through the radiator to clean solder points from within the radiator. That or it simply doesn't need it.

Either way, having different metals within a watercooling loop isn't necessarily bad. Just make sure to use an additive for such. Just look at a car's watercooling loop. Copper radiator, aluminium engine, plastics, rubber, and who knows what other metals. All that's in there is water and anti-freeze/coolant.

Either way, it'd take forever for the corrosion to eat away at something like a heatercore or anything in your watercooling loop. Just make sure to flush out the system every year. For me, every 6 to 7 months, I'll flush out my system, then open up my blocks to clean out. I had to resort to using a bristle brush for a trumpet to clean out my reservoir.
 
I have a question, I have a dangerden 120mm single radiator, I am having trouble with getting the tubing on the Danger Den G 1/4" Thread Barb - 1/2" ID barb, How do you put the tubing on this?

I had to resort to cut the side of the tubing to accept the barb.
 
Try simply rubbing some water on the barb first, then trying to slip the tubing on. If that doesn't work, then go with the boiling water method.

Reminds me when I helped build one guy's setup. All his blocks, pumps, reservoirs, and radiators had 1/2" ID barbs and he buys 3/8" ID tubing. Ya, we had to use the boiling water method and a hell of a lot of elbow grease. I got blisters from trying to jam that tubing onto there. Course, didn't have to use any hose clamps at all.
 
2 questions :

1- on many online retailers the radiator is rated by BTU or KW , so far so good , but how many BTU or KW do i need to cool my CPU and GPU ???
Is there any easy way to find that out ???

2- i ve seen that many people use a shrout between the radiator and the fan . Many radiators that are sold come with the fan directly attached to the radiator . Ok ,I know about the dead spot in the airflow . But my question is , is there really a big performance difference in using a shrout or directly attached fan to the radiator ???

:confused:
 
game14 said:
2 questions :

1- on many online retailers the radiator is rated by BTU or KW , so far so good , but how many BTU or KW do i need to cool my CPU and GPU ???
Is there any easy way to find that out ???

2- i ve seen that many people use a shrout between the radiator and the fan . Many radiators that are sold come with the fan directly attached to the radiator . Ok ,I know about the dead spot in the airflow . But my question is , is there really a big performance difference in using a shrout or directly attached fan to the radiator ???

:confused:
Click to expand...


Don't go by those ratings... They generally say, xxx BTU/hr. but leave out important information such as water and air flow rate/speed...

Just go by the tried tested method... 120mm rad for each large heat componant... 1gpu + cpu = 240mm, 2 gpus + 1 CPU 320mm radiator...


And there's very little difference between using a shrouD and not using one.
 
game14 said:
2 questions :

1- on many online retailers the radiator is rated by BTU or KW , so far so good , but how many BTU or KW do i need to cool my CPU and GPU ???
Is there any easy way to find that out ???

2- i ve seen that many people use a shrout between the radiator and the fan . Many radiators that are sold come with the fan directly attached to the radiator . Ok ,I know about the dead spot in the airflow . But my question is , is there really a big performance difference in using a shrout or directly attached fan to the radiator ???

:confused:
Click to expand...


most people i think jsut use a rule of thumb for the rad size .. like cpu only = 1x120 cpu + gpu = 2x120 .. sli etc.. = 3x120 ... at least that's what i go by

most of the "made for watercooling" rads have about 1/4" air plenum built into the caseing so you could use a shroud but the effect would be minimal .. also about 60-70% or people suck air through the rad vs. blow so that cuts down on dead spot probablly..

good luck .. post some pics in the pics sticky once your done

mal
 
thanks guys :)
so 2 x 120 mm rad would be ok to cool a cpu and gpu . I actually planned to use one 120mm rad and 2 x 80mm rad . So I guess that would be enough ???

mal : about posting pictures, could take some time , im still busy with planing and looking for parts (most of the time searching for parts),havent even started to build yet . :D
 
I always went with wattage.. like about 120w per 120mm. So given that a prescott (120~w) and 2 7900's (about 90 each) = 300w = 3x120.
 
I got twop questions. What is a better block, the AquaXtreme MP-05 LE or the Apogee?

And also what does one look for in a pump. I have no clue which pump to get.
 
With rads, for me, I look at hardware and what you plan on doing. I've run a 3.4 ghz P4 Prescott, 6800NU, and i975 chispet on a single 120mm rad. It worked fine. Course, I never overclocked either. I added in an 80mm rad later, when I did start overclocking. I was able to hit 4 ghz and 380/850 (vidcard). It did run hot, but worked. Average temps were around 55C. Max was 60C.

As for the waterblock question....

http://www.systemcooling.com/cooltechnica_aquaxtreme-01.html

A review. It shows it up against a Swiftech Storm.

http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_apogee-01.html

A review of the Apogee. Make sure to read the apogee to the end, as the test results show it working worse than the Storm, but actual comp hardware test shows it performing just as good as the Storm.

Me. I have the Storm in my setup. Was no Apogee available when I got it.
 
I saw and read the reviews, the Apogee is less restrictive when adding mire blocks to the loop. IMO the Apogee is better than the Storm compared in prcie and gives about the same performance. But I also want to know the difference between the MP05 and the Apogee.
 
BaronBamboo said:
I saw and read the reviews, the Apogee is less restrictive when adding mire blocks to the loop. IMO the Apogee is better than the Storm compared in prcie and gives about the same performance. But I also want to know the difference between the MP05 and the Apogee.
Click to expand...
with the ihs on they are all within like 1 to 2 degree C of each other .....

i like the tdx personally because it performs pretty well and looks awsome and is available everwhere, doesn't use cheap delrin barbs, and is pretty inexpensive....


mal
 
Is there a name for mounting a waterblock to the case? So i can search for more info on it.
Like in the below picture, does it work well?

And question 2, i have a unlabeled peltier, i have no idea its ratings. The only thing i know is a 9v battery makes for fun party tricks. How do i test it with my voltmeter to see what i have on my hands?

PA200912.jpg
 
I'm going to be getting the Swiftech Apex Ultra kit tomorrow, and I have a few questions. How worried should I be about barbs coming unscrewed. I move my computer quite a bit, and I figure I will just have to inspect and hand tighten every barb before I bootup after I move it. Is this common practice for you water cooling veterans?

Should I clean the rad with vinegar and distilled water? I think I read that at XS, but are swiftechs rads that dirty? I just want to get leak testing ASAP, but I will go through the 12 hour cleaning process if I have to.

I plan to take apart all my blocks and give them a good cleaning, will this void any warranty that the blocks might have? I seen the "void if removed" sticker on a few DD blocks, and I was wondering if it was the same with Swiftech blocks.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Does anyone know roughly how much tubing comes with the Apex Ultra? Thanks again.
 
Sloth said:
I'm going to be getting the Swiftech Apex Ultra kit tomorrow, and I have a few questions. How worried should I be about barbs coming unscrewed. I move my computer quite a bit, and I figure I will just have to inspect and hand tighten every barb before I bootup after I move it. Is this common practice for you water cooling veterans?
Click to expand...

I've never had any barbs come loose after I've tightened them with a wrench. Unless you computer is on top of a constant vibrating table, there's not much to worry about barbs coming off.

Should I clean the rad with vinegar and distilled water? I think I read that at XS, but are swiftechs rads that dirty? I just want to get leak testing ASAP, but I will go through the 12 hour cleaning process if I have to.
Click to expand...

I normally just flush out all blocks, rads, etc with distilled water, when I first get them and do a yearly cleaning.

I plan to take apart all my blocks and give them a good cleaning, will this void any warranty that the blocks might have? I seen the "void if removed" sticker on a few DD blocks, and I was wondering if it was the same with Swiftech blocks.
Click to expand...

I don't think it'll void the warranty. I mean, Swiftech gives you the allen wrench tool to take them apart. Course, I've never looked through my warranty, so it's not like what I'm saying is fact.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Does anyone know roughly how much tubing comes with the Apex Ultra? Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Again, not certain on this, but I'm thinking 10 feet. Either way, the tubing really sucks. Just dump it and get your own tubing. I suggest Tygon for 3/8" ID or Primoflex for 1/2" ID.
 
warmace said:
Is there a name for mounting a waterblock to the case? So i can search for more info on it.
Like in the below picture, does it work well?

And question 2, i have a unlabeled peltier, i have no idea its ratings. The only thing i know is a 9v battery makes for fun party tricks. How do i test it with my voltmeter to see what i have on my hands?
Click to expand...

Wait what? there's no waterblock mounted to that case... That's a pump at the bottom...

No idea on the peltier.
 
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