The Router Recommendations Thread (Consumer)

[Orinthical]

...I don't mind using stock firmware for now, but its painfully outdated, any suggestion for now Orinthical?

Linksys released firmware for it on 2/29/2008, so grab the latest for now if you don't already have it. Other than that, unless there's a specific feature you're missing, there's little wrong with running the manufacturer's firmware. While I may be a supporter of open source development, just because something is open source doesn't necessarily make it better. I'd actually rather have the manufacturer's firmware than the "first working version" of DD-WRT on my device.

 

[ceolstan]

We just bought our first house (yay!), but since it was built in the 1970s, it's not got cable access in every room. We need to set up a network for our 2 home offices, which are located on different floors and on opposite sides of the house.

The house itself is a bilevel. That means that when you enter the home, you have to go up 6 steps to get to the formal living room/dining room/main living areas, or you go down 6 steps to get to the family room/spare room/laundry room/garage access. My office will be on the main living area, on the northeast corner of the house. My husband's office is on the lower level, on the southwest corner of the house. We're talking about a 2100 sq ft home here.

I'm a gamer, and other than games, I use the computer for personal productivity/general MS Office sort of applications. My husband is an IT director for his company (and has a limite patience for doing IT stuff at home!), and his computing deals mainly with VPN connections to his workplace. He opted for the lower level office, but there's no cable access there. I'd like to have the modem in my office, as I could have the kind of gaming benefits of wired computing, but we need to determine a solution for his own office.

I think that a N-gauge wireless router might be the ticket. I'd have to get a wireless adaptor for his pc (P965 mobo). His notebook has wireless, though an older version. However, I understand that the N-gauge stuff is backwards compatible. The N-gauge routers appear to have the greatest range of the wireless routers.

My current interest is something like the D-Link DGL-4500 as a router. For my husband's wireless adaptor, I was considering the Encore ENLWI-N adaptor. My current modem is a Linksys model of about 2 years old.

My questions are as follows:

1. Would the D-Link provide the kind of speed and reliability that would support the main kinds of networking that my husband does? He's no gamer, but he'd not like a lot of lag.
2. Is the coverage sufficient? If not, how would I boost coverage?
3. Would we need a new modem? If so, what should I look for if I wanted to optimize the N-gauge capabilities?
4. Does the adaptor look as if it would be sufficient?

Thanks!

--ceolstan

 

[dtess17]

I ended up picking up the WRT600N. I was able to get a much better price on it than either of the two routers I was looking at.
First one was DOA. Being a fair person I just ordered a second from work, and send the first back...After setup I have to say I am very very pleased with it. I haven't played with every little thing yet, However I am getting far better range than i was with my previous set up.
I like the fact I was able to set up two different networks, So I can keep the few wireless G products local to the 2.4ghz band.

 

[Orinthical]

My questions are as follows:

1. Would the D-Link provide the kind of speed and reliability that would support the main kinds of networking that my husband does? He's no gamer, but he'd not like a lot of lag.
2. Is the coverage sufficient? If not, how would I boost coverage?
3. Would we need a new modem? If so, what should I look for if I wanted to optimize the N-gauge capabilities?
4. Does the adaptor look as if it would be sufficient?

1&2: It's hard to say definitively whether or not any router would provide adequate coverage for a given house due to the fact that this depends greatly on how the house is constructed, what materials were used and what other devices occupy the home that may interfere with it.

That said, the DGL-4500 or any quality wireless-n product should provide adequate coverage. The WRT600N is also a good choice but given that you are a gamer, the game-specific optimizations of the DGL series may be helpful.

3: As for a new modem - as long as the modem connects to your router via an ethernet cable, there's no need to replace it. If you are looking to replace your modem as well, be sure to contact your ISP first to see if they have an approved list of modems they will allow on their service. The Motorola Surfboard line is almost universally supported.

4: I purchased an ENCORE brand wireless adapter once and had a horrible time with their drivers. I really don't recommend you go with an off-brand when you have a good bit of range to contend with and a real reliability concern. Here are some adapters to consider:

LINKSYS WMP300N (PCI)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124069

D-Link DWA-142 (USB)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127084

D-Link DWA-552 (PCI)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127219

D-Link DWA-556 (PCI Express 1x)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127218

The Linksys adapter is probably the best out of those since range is going to be the number one thing you're trying to tackle. Notice a trend towards external antennae? Honestly, the Encore will probably perform just as well -- based upon the reviews at Newegg -- and it looks like driver support might be there. I just have reservations when it comes to Encore adapters - and ultimately it's up to you.

Hope that helps...

 

[ceolstan]

Just an update. I ordered the gaming router. We'll see how that works and if it's easy to install. I also took Orinthical's advice regarding the Linksys adaptor. I forgot that we will have a TiVO in the family room, also on the lower level, and that we'd need a wireless adaptor for the TiVO. Reseach indicates that TiVOs are picky about the wireless adaptors, but the TiVO adaptor was on sale at newegg, so I ordered that, too.

The parts should be delivered today. My hope is that I can install the new router before we move, and configure my husband's computer to wireless--again, prior to Friday's move. My thought is that this may be ambitious. My husband is an IT director for his company, and the years of marriage have taught me that a man known to be detail-oriented at work--someone who insists that documentation be read, directions followed, and more importantly that tech support be called if the hardware won't work after a certain amount of time passes--that person will cuss like a sailor within 5 minutes of looking at a home network problem and will refuse to read directions, call tech support, etc. This is why I usually end up being the techie at home.

I'll let you all know how the coverage works and how the router behaves.

--ceolstan

 

[morpheus6d9]

Just an update. I ordered the gaming router. We'll see how that works and if it's easy to install. I also took Orinthical's advice regarding the Linksys adaptor. I forgot that we will have a TiVO in the family room, also on the lower level, and that we'd need a wireless adaptor for the TiVO. Reseach indicates that TiVOs are picky about the wireless adaptors, but the TiVO adaptor was on sale at newegg, so I ordered that, too.

The parts should be delivered today. My hope is that I can install the new router before we move, and configure my husband's computer to wireless--again, prior to Friday's move. My thought is that this may be ambitious. My husband is an IT director for his company, and the years of marriage have taught me that a man known to be detail-oriented at work--someone who insists that documentation be read, directions followed, and more importantly that tech support be called if the hardware won't work after a certain amount of time passes--that person will cuss like a sailor within 5 minutes of looking at a home network problem and will refuse to read directions, call tech support, etc. This is why I usually end up being the techie at home.

I'll let you all know how the coverage works and how the router behaves.

--ceolstan

lol if your husband is an IT director and can't set up a home network i wouldnt want to work for him

 

[elleana]

Quick question - any of the draft-N routers can work as a bridge? I have a bunch of stuff in the living room (PS3, xbox 360, HTPC) all connected with wires that I want to connect to a bunch of stuff in my room (gaming box, NAS, server) which also can all be connected via wire. I'm currently on wireless G, but it just doesn't cut it for streaming HD video so I'm looking at upgrading.

There's no way in hell of running cables between the two rooms though. And I'd rather not have to buy wireless adapters for everything.

 

[morpheus6d9]

which router are running now ?

 

[elleana]

Buffalo, I don't remember the model number but it was the one which was pretty popular a while back because it could do dd-wrt. They could bridge as well, so I have a pair of then right now.

 

[Q-BZ]

I think I'm pretty close to getting a DGL 4500 for myself.

Here's the question: For the computer that's a good two floors down, is the companion DWA 160 USB Adapter good enough or do I need to consider something else?

Would a bridge or access point hardwire connected to that second computer be more effective than the USB Adapter?

(If I'm understanding how a bridge or AP works properly.)

Are PCI adapters better than USB adapters?

 

[morpheus6d9]

dgl-4500 is a good choice i have one myself

if you have a wireless laptop i would check the signal strength first before buying the usb adapter hardwire i think would be best pci wireless adapters are better than usb

 

[Q-BZ]

dgl-4500 is a good choice i have one myself

if you have a wireless laptop i would check the signal strength first before buying the usb adapter hardwire i think would be best pci wireless adapters are better than usb

I've seen a lot of mixed feedback about those PCI and PCI-E adapters.

As it stands, I believe that the DWA 160 is the only "dual band" adapter that D-link has right now to go along with their dual band routers.

 

[anonuser]

I just purchased a D-Link DIR-655 for $90. Is it too late in the game for this router? Would I be better served with a newer one? Or should I just use this one?

Thanks!

 

[Q-BZ]

I just purchased a D-Link DIR-655 for $90. Is it too late in the game for this router? Would I be better served with a newer one? Or should I just use this one?

Thanks!

That's still an awesome router. I may yet just go for that myself. I'm debating the pros and cons of dual band and whether it's worth it or not.

 

[anonuser]

That's still an awesome router. I may yet just go for that myself. I'm debating the pros and cons of dual band and whether it's worth it or not.

Yeah I'm having the same issues with the decision. Let me know what you decide and why. I have an unopened DIR-655 that I'm trying to decide if I should keep or return.

Thanks.

 

[Q-BZ]

Yeah I'm having the same issues with the decision. Let me know what you decide and why. I have an unopened DIR-655 that I'm trying to decide if I should keep or return.

Thanks.

FWIW to you:

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/content/view/30396/100/

Granted, that's one outlet and one man's opinion, but his opinion and that site in general carry a LOT of weight with me personally.

Something to think about.

I'd say in your case, you probably ought to just open up that 655 and be on your merry way.

 

[anonuser]

Thanks for the article... makes a good point. I suppose I may as well just use this router and then eBay it for $50 and upgrade when the time comes.

Thanks again.

 

[Q-BZ]

Thanks for the article... makes a good point. I suppose I may as well just use this router and then eBay it for $50 and upgrade when the time comes.

Thanks again.

Good luck!

 

[tc93]

Seems like very single brand and model of router has just as many complaints and problems. And all brands have poor support, with poor or non-existent firmware updates. For as much as they cost, its really ridiculous.

I always though the new N routers were supposed to have some huge range, or at least thats what everyone claimed when Belkin came out with their Pre-N routers. Now all I read are complaints about wireless-N range, and how it interferes with neighbors wireless.

 

[Q-BZ]

Seems like very single brand and model of router has just as many complaints and problems. And all brands have poor support, with poor or non-existent firmware updates. For as much as they cost, its really ridiculous.

I always though the new N routers were supposed to have some huge range, or at least thats what everyone claimed when Belkin came out with their Pre-N routers. Now all I read are complaints about wireless-N range, and how it interferes with neighbors wireless.

I've seen some of that although I've seen more issues when people mix brands and/or mix N with G and other drafts.

 

[morpheus6d9]

i wish i was able to run dd-wrt on my dgl-4500

 

[Q-BZ]

i wish i was able to run dd-wrt on my dgl-4500

But why? What features do you feel the DGL4500 is missing that DD-WRT would help you with?

 

[Q-BZ]

^^ I wonder if I'll ever see an answer to that?


Anyways, here's where I'm stuck at: The router is the easy part to figure out here. What I'm seeing as the real problem is the companion adapters that go along with these routers.

Take if I buy a DGL4500 for example. The only adapter that's a "direct companion" is the DWA 160 dual band USB adapter. Lots of mixed feedback on this puppy.

I know USB adapters can be flaky and can be bottlenecks. That's what I've lived with here for over 4 years with this Netgear stuff I've had.

The computer two floors away from where the main router will be will either go on a USB adapter or, if the situation is that flaky...do I buy an access point/bridge like a DAP 1522 or something like that and use it on the second computer down in the basement instead? I'd connect that second computer via ethernet cable to the access point/bridge and it would be what I would use instead of some USB adapter.


^^ Is that a viable setup?


Otherwise I've seen PCI adapters but I'd lose dual band ability, which isn't the end of the world I s'pose. How reliable are these things?

I'm probably confusing myself so hopefully someone can set me straight.

 

[Zero82z]

do I buy an access point like a DAP 1522 or something like that and use it on the second computer down in the basement instead? I'd connect that second computer via ethernet cable to the access point and it would be what I would use instead of some USB adapter.

Is that even the way an AP works?

Access points are pretty much the exact opposite of what you're describing. An access point connects to a non-wireless router and provides a wireless connection. You generally cannot use one to connect a PC to an existing network.

In your first post you mentioned that you'll be connecting a computer two floors down. That shouldn't be a problem with wireless-N so long as there isn't any concrete or faraday-cage-creating material in the floors. I'm currently running a wireless-G network from two floors down and I get a decent signal, so with an N network, so long as you're using MIMO, you shouldn't have any problem getting a stable connection over that distance, even if you're not using a dual-band adapter.

As for the USB adapter, I would go with a PCI card instead. Even if you lose the dual-band, chances are you'll get a better signal and more reliable throughput. I've used a bunch of USB wireless adapters, and I've gotten poor data rates with all of them. I don't know about this one specifically, but I wouldn't risk it. Chances are that even with the dual-band, the USB unit will be slower than a PCI card.

 

[Q-BZ]

Access points are pretty much the exact opposite of what you're describing. An access point connects to a non-wireless router and provides a wireless connection. You generally cannot use one to connect a PC to an existing network.

I see.

How about a bridge?

In your first post you mentioned that you'll be connecting a computer two floors down. That shouldn't be a problem with wireless-N so long as there isn't any concrete or faraday-cage-creating material in the floors. I'm currently running a wireless-G network from two floors down and I get a decent signal, so with an N network, so long as you're using MIMO, you shouldn't have any problem getting a stable connection over that distance, even if you're not using a dual-band adapter.

Good.

As for the USB adapter, I would go with a PCI card instead. Even if you lose the dual-band, chances are you'll get a better signal and more reliable throughput. I've used a bunch of USB wireless adapters, and I've gotten poor data rates with all of them. I don't know about this one specifically, but I wouldn't risk it. Chances are that even with the dual-band, the USB unit will be slower than a PCI card.

I will keep that in mind.

 

[Zero82z]

I see.

How about a bridge?

A bridge should work, although of course you'd also lose the dual-band. Also, unless you have more than one computer you want to connect (a bridge would make this easier since you can get one with multiple ethernet ports), a bridge wouldn't really give you any benefit over a standard network card.

 

[Q-BZ]

A bridge should work, although of course you'd also lose the dual-band.

Even with something like the DAP 1522 from D-Link? That works in either AP mode or Bridge mode.

http://www.dlink.com/products/?sec=1&pid=663

Also, unless you have more than one computer you want to connect (a bridge would make this easier since you can get one with multiple ethernet ports), a bridge wouldn't really give you any benefit over a standard network card.

Ok, that's the most important key to this whole thing for me right there.

If there's nothing to be gained performance wise then I won't worry about it, although something like that DAP 1522 might be something I look into later, down the road.

 

[Zero82z]

Even with something like the DAP 1522 from D-Link? That works in either AP mode or Bridge mode.

http://www.dlink.com/products/?sec=1&pid=663

Yeah, that would work. I'm not familiar with D-Link's product line (I use Linksys stuff, too many bad experiences with D-Link), so I didn't realise they had other products with that dual-band tech. However, like I said before, there would be absolutely no benefit relative to a PCI card if you're only going to be connecting one PC. The point of a bridge is really to connect two separate networks.

 

[Stevarian]

I just posted earlier today about trying to network two computers, and also be able to share the internet, and share files. I had tried using a crossover patch cable, with no success so far, and the replies I got suggested the easiest and best thing to do would be to buy a router.

It looks like all of the recommendations here are for wireless. I suppose it makes sense to go wireless in the long term, as I ultimately plan to buy a laptop someday, but for the time being was just contemplating going the wired route as both computers are in the same room. Are there any recommendations for wired routers, or are all of the wired routers fairly similar as far as performance? Or should I bite the bullet and go wireless? Thanks.

 

[Zero82z]

It looks like all of the recommendations here are for wireless. I suppose it makes sense to go wireless in the long term, as I ultimately plan to buy a laptop someday, but for the time being was just contemplating going the wired route as both computers are in the same room. Are there any recommendations for wired routers, or are all of the wired routers fairly similar as far as performance? Or should I bite the bullet and go wireless? Thanks.

Most companies don't even sell consumer wired routers any more. You may as well just find a cheap wireless unit. Even a shitty wireless router will handle wired traffic fine, and you can always disable the wireless radio.

Of course, if you're okay with buying used equipment, you could always hop on eBay or Craigslist and see if you can grab an old router for cheap. Either way, it doesn't really matter.

 

[Q-BZ]

Yeah, that would work. I'm not familiar with D-Link's product line (I use Linksys stuff, too many bad experiences with D-Link), so I didn't realise they had other products with that dual-band tech. However, like I said before, there would be absolutely no benefit relative to a PCI card if you're only going to be connecting one PC. The point of a bridge is really to connect two separate networks.

Understood.

I'm not locked in one any one company per se.

I may go with Linksys as well but I see Linksys and D-Link as the two leaders on this front, at least for now.

Based on everything we've chatted about here, what would be your personal recommendation?

 

[Zero82z]

My personal recommendation is to go with the router you picked out and use a PCI-based adapter for the PC you intend to connect. Unfortunately I can't give you a model recommendation since I'm not that familiar with PCI wireless cards (my wireless devices are all laptops), but I'm sure you can find a good card for yourself with a few minutes worth of research.

 

[Hurdler]

Due to the OP's recommendations, I purchased a D-Link DIR-615, and I love it! For the price that I paid ($50 @BB) it's a great router. I originally had a Hawking Tech something that I paid $5 for, but that wasn't cutting it. I got the D-Link, and it's been highly worth it. The only problem I've had with it is if I'm streaming video to my 360 (wireless), the network to my laptop occasionally drops for a few seconds (also wireless). Sure it's annoying, but I didn't pay a ton, so I can't complain.

Thanks for the thread Orinthical!

 

[Q-BZ]

My personal recommendation is to go with the router you picked out and use a PCI-based adapter for the PC you intend to connect. Unfortunately I can't give you a model recommendation since I'm not that familiar with PCI wireless cards (my wireless devices are all laptops), but I'm sure you can find a good card for yourself with a few minutes worth of research.

Well, I notice on both D-Link and Linksys's side that neither of them have "dual band" PCI adapters yet so if I bought either a Dlink 4500 or a Linksys 610 I'd have to get a PCI adapter that only handles the 2.4Ghx radio, which again, isn't the end of world I suppose.

Otherwise, I'd just abandon the idea of having 5Ghz available to me and go down a step on the router side to match.



http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/productlist.php?CatID=32&FamID=60&ProdID=379

This Hawking HWDN1 is very intruiging...

http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/productlist.php?CatID=19&FamID=33&ProdID=377


^^ This is also intruiging, especially since I can upgrade those antennas.

http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/productlist.php?CatID=32&FamID=58&ProdID=152

Hmmmm... a 15dbi antenna. That could really take care of any issues!


I'm amazed Hawking doesn't have their own wireless N router to go along with these goodies.

 

[Redshirt #24]

Not quite six months old, but my TRENDnet TEW-633GR is still kicking along in decent fashion. I haven't really put a major usage hurt on it, but it hasn't flaked out either--it just works, minus one firmware-level quirk (which, not entirely surprisingly, wasn't fixed in the second firmware release for it that came out last week) with it displaying a particular TCP/UDP setting oddly.

Having said that, if the DIR-655 is consistently below $100 nowadays...ouch.

 

[svak]

Given that Newegg shows the WRT600N and the WRT330N as deactivated, how does the WRT310N compare to this list?

 

[ceolstan]

lol if your husband is an IT director and can't set up a home network i wouldnt want to work for him

Oh, he can set one up. He just works 12+ hours per day and doesn't want to mess around with stuff at home. If it's plug-n-play, that's fine. If there are problems, it's too much like work.

With respect to the routers, I'm fairly pleased with the DGL-4500's signal strength. The TiVO picks up the signal just fine, and TiVO uses a wireless G adaptor. The network connections claim the signal to my husband's computer is about 39% or so. The rate seems low, though, which is problematic. If a rate of 5=5 packets, that's a bit low, imo. I am considering a wireless bridge or some kind of booster--perhaps using the WTRG for that, though I'd have to read up on how to do it.

I'm also going to experiment with positioning. The current setup has the wireless router on top of a file cabinet, but if I can find another place for it, that would be better. The problem will be running cat-5. The cabling in the house is a bit of a mess, as the home was built pre-cable (1978). What I'd prefer is a sane system. I may end up having to save my pennies for a tech to come out to assess the situation and bring order out of chaos.

 

[Q-BZ]

Oh, he can set one up. He just works 12+ hours per day and doesn't want to mess around with stuff at home. If it's plug-n-play, that's fine. If there are problems, it's too much like work.

With respect to the routers, I'm fairly pleased with the DGL-4500's signal strength. The TiVO picks up the signal just fine, and TiVO uses a wireless G adaptor. The network connections claim the signal to my husband's computer is about 39% or so. The rate seems low, though, which is problematic. If a rate of 5=5 packets, that's a bit low, imo. I am considering a wireless bridge or some kind of booster--perhaps using the WTRG for that, though I'd have to read up on how to do it.

I'm also going to experiment with positioning. The current setup has the wireless router on top of a file cabinet, but if I can find another place for it, that would be better. The problem will be running cat-5. The cabling in the house is a bit of a mess, as the home was built pre-cable (1978). What I'd prefer is a sane system. I may end up having to save my pennies for a tech to come out to assess the situation and bring order out of chaos.

I've seen some stray folks complain about drop outs on the 4500. Have you seen anything like that yet yourself?

 

[screwballl]

My suggestion:
wired only router (no wireless)
SMC7004VBR
Typically runs $30-50

Plug and play, very little needed to adjust, it works and works well right out of the box... granted there are no firmware updates but it is really not needed since they are already pretty tight with their NAT and security...

just my two pennies

 

[Zero82z]

My suggestion:
wired only router (no wireless)
SMC7004VBR
Typically runs $30-50

Plug and play, very little needed to adjust, it works and works well right out of the box... granted there are no firmware updates but it is really not needed since they are already pretty tight with their NAT and security...

just my two pennies

My suggestion: If you're paying $30-50 for a wired router, you're getting seriously ripped off. And believe it or not, some people actually do use the wireless part of wireless routers.