Avoid newegg. Amazon is much much better and you give [H]ard commission.
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The Router Recommendations Thread (Consumer)
- Thread starter Orinthical
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Avoid newegg. Amazon is much much better and you give [H]ard commission.
Mackintire
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I've ordered from both. Newegg is generally good. But when things go wrong...they're a real pain.
Amazon is generally the gold standard for purchasing/returning and service on the web. Just make certain that the item you are purchasing are labeled "fulfilled by amazon" Not everything viewable on amazon is actually fulfilled by amazon.
Amazon is generally the gold standard for purchasing/returning and service on the web. Just make certain that the item you are purchasing are labeled "fulfilled by amazon" Not everything viewable on amazon is actually fulfilled by amazon.
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If youre that comfortable with newegg, why are you even asking the question?
Ive heard people having issues with newegg lately. Ive ordered several small things from amazon & become a prime member but never any computer parts. Amazon offers prime shipping while newegg would take 4-7 days.My only issue w/amazon is how they have several selllers which could cause issues. .Just wanted a heads up since this forum seems to be positive towards amazon. Appreciate it.
For one they ship faster, way faster and dont BS you about when they ship it like newegg just did to me (Told me they shipped it but actually only gave UPS an invoice and shipped it 2 days later). I also dont have to pay for "rush processing." Second Amazon is the gold standard in customer service. Bought some stuff to wash my car and it didnt work correctly asked amazon for a return, Amazon just refunded me and said dont bother shipping it back its on us. Stuff like that is what makes Amazon better. If they had 290s in stock I would have had no problem buying them over newegg.
The Atheros (now QCA) platform in general are much better in terms of performance and reliability compared to Ralink (Asus) at least if you're looking at the open source solutions. I still wonder why people recommend the WRT54GL or WNDR3700 which kinda like saying that you should go get a Sandy Bridge CPU instead of Haswell. The TP-Links TL-WDR3XXX and 4XXX are good consumer routers, especially if you want to play around.
//Danne
//Danne
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Mackintire
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With that analogy the WRT54GL is more alike to an old Dothan processor and the WNDR3700 is akin to a Core2 Duo. There's nothing wrong with either of them....they're just much slower than Ivy Bridge or Haswell. And yes the analogy stays true, a E3 processor based on Ivy Bridge outperforms a Core2 Duo.
My problem with the TP-link routers is only that the user feedback has been hit and miss. I can't tell if it is because of the lack of quality in the firmware, a lack of quality in hardware, or inconsistent user feedback. Either way...its less of a guarantee. I'm not going to say TP-link is junk, but I would say that some user's find it has a strong value for its price point. I have no personal experience with TP-link devices, although I would consider buying one if the price point was right and it matched my requirements, I typically find something refurbished that is normally more expensive and buy that instead. My WNDR3700 v1 I purchased for $35 is an great example.
Lastly The WNDR3700 is significantly faster than the WRT54GL. The WAN-LAN throughput is 3-4 times faster, it can handle x7 the number of concurrent connections has wireless QOS and basic WAN QOS and is 2 full generations newer than the WRT54GL.
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The TL-WDR3600 is 56$ at Walmart (free shipping) and its quite a bit nicer than the WNDR3700v1. I've always used OpenWRT (trunk) on these two and both are very reliable, the TL-WDR3600 is more versatile given the more recent hw. If you get your hands on a WNDR3700v2 it might be a better buy depending on your needs (more flash less ram).
//Danne
//Danne
Mackintire
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??? Dizzy did not say anything negative about the Asus routers. He did comparing your old router to a very popular and out of production Netgear router "WNDR3700v1" produces a couple of years ago.
Dizzy's exact statement was: "The TP-Links TL-WDR3XXX and 4XXX are good consumer routers, especially if you want to play around."
Mackintire
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I come out of the wood work to help...and then disappear for a few weeks. Mostly because the OP for this thread doesn't seem interested in maintaining it.
I think part of the reason is that smallnetbuilder has become the goto site for router reviews.
I think part of the reason is that smallnetbuilder has become the goto site for router reviews.
I think so too. Thats what I have used lately. My asus AC68U has been flawless. The setup was a little annoying but other than that its been great, no random restarts, the range on wireless is crazy and most of all the transfer speeds are stellar.
Am thinking long and hard on an upgrade to my old (three? generations old) Airport Extreme and am having a very hard time choosing between the AC68U and Netgear's equivalent, the Nighthawk. What didn't you like about the setup?
The UI, it was annoying and took roughly 20 minutes. My DIR-825 takes maybe a minute. But other than that its all gravy. I got the AC68U for a good price so, I would have probably taken the Netgear R7000 Nighthawk if I saw a good price.
burritoincognito
Gawd
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I'm not the biggest fan of the Nighthawk's UI, I think I'm so used to DD-WRT that this just feels lacking in comparison, but the iTunes and Time Machine capability may keep me on it.
The Nighthawk is a beast though. Sitting next to my DD-WRT'ed WNDR3700, one room away, the WNDR3700 shows -57db, and the Nighthawk shows -34db.
The Nighthawk is a beast though. Sitting next to my DD-WRT'ed WNDR3700, one room away, the WNDR3700 shows -57db, and the Nighthawk shows -34db.
Morphes
Supreme [H]ardness
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I'm looking for a new router, just for me and myself as my current one is crashing a lot and just being terrible. I see you guys talking about the asus AC68U, but jesus its $200 for a router! Are there any decent cheaper options, that are more noteworthy than others?
Ive got my new Asus RT-N16 & Zoom modem up & running. The new Zoom modem has made a HUGE difference in my internet speeds! However, it seems the AsusRT-N16 signal range does not seem to be much better than the old linksys WRT54GL...I have not updated the firmware & wondering what is best to upgrade for this router?
Morphes: Asus RT-N16 I am running costs around 72 w/rebate. I just recently got it so I cannot comment anymore on it.
Morphes: Asus RT-N16 I am running costs around 72 w/rebate. I just recently got it so I cannot comment anymore on it.
Mackintire
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Most of the time, electronics like routers are not returnable once they are opened.
The merlin firmware will look like the factory firmware.
Signal area will probably not improve, due to limitations of (what is "legal" transmit power. ) Even if you chose to turn up that signal you client devices can not be turned up....so you end up with clients that can see a signal but no ability to communicate back to the AP.
The key take-away "usability" of how good an experience a connection will be at lower signal levels will be higher on a wireless N access point than a wireless G access point. (assuming you have wireless N clients).
What might help...
Shape your antenna array on the router so that the two outside antennas are tilted 30 degree off to the left and right and the center antenna is tilted 30 degrees back on the Z axis.
I really need some help guys.
My Netgear WNDR 3700 that I purchased in April 2012 is now dropping wifi constantly. Wired connections are stable, however.
Prior to the WNDR 3700 (n600 model), I had the D-link DIR655, which lasted for about 2 years before it started dropping wifi.
I am really irritated that both routers failed so quickly. To me, 2 years for a router is just plain crap, no other way to put it. I don't think a router should be disposable and have to be replaced every 2 years. I researched the problems with the DIR655 and WNDR 3700 a little and it seems like widespread failures, with no solution. Yet both were very popular among enthusiasts and weren't the cheapest options. I expect a $80-$100 router to last for many, many (way over 4 years)
So, because I'm so sick of wireless, I plan to hardwire as many computers as I can. I just ordered a 24-port gigabit switch from Tiger's last sale, but I still need wifi for the tablets and two computers.
One good friend recommended getting a Ubiquiti and wiring that to broadcast a wifi signal. The problem is, I still need a router/firewall. I have no knowledge of linux, but I would consider a dedicated linux machine for router & firewall if it's the only reliable option coupled with the 24port switch & Ubiquiti. I'd really, really rather not have to scrap together a small linux rig just to be a router, and I really like having the router mounted on the wall, taking up very little space.
My network needs:
Laptop (wireless)
kitchen comp (wireless)
7 comps mining, all hardwired 24/7 connection always working.
Server, streaming to HTPC + 2 other comps (wired)
Main gaming comp (wired)
So, I guess my question is;
Are there any decent <$100 routers that have gigabit and won't fail in 2 years?
Is that really too much to ask?
I saw the TP-Link recommendation above for ~$55 from wal-mart. Would this be a reliable option?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/TP-Link-N600-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/21607356
Do any of the linux distros for routers/firewalls work from a usb flash drive so I don't have to have a hard drive?
I read that untangle won't run from a usb drive, is that still the case?
My Netgear WNDR 3700 that I purchased in April 2012 is now dropping wifi constantly. Wired connections are stable, however.
Prior to the WNDR 3700 (n600 model), I had the D-link DIR655, which lasted for about 2 years before it started dropping wifi.
I am really irritated that both routers failed so quickly. To me, 2 years for a router is just plain crap, no other way to put it. I don't think a router should be disposable and have to be replaced every 2 years. I researched the problems with the DIR655 and WNDR 3700 a little and it seems like widespread failures, with no solution. Yet both were very popular among enthusiasts and weren't the cheapest options. I expect a $80-$100 router to last for many, many (way over 4 years)
So, because I'm so sick of wireless, I plan to hardwire as many computers as I can. I just ordered a 24-port gigabit switch from Tiger's last sale, but I still need wifi for the tablets and two computers.
One good friend recommended getting a Ubiquiti and wiring that to broadcast a wifi signal. The problem is, I still need a router/firewall. I have no knowledge of linux, but I would consider a dedicated linux machine for router & firewall if it's the only reliable option coupled with the 24port switch & Ubiquiti. I'd really, really rather not have to scrap together a small linux rig just to be a router, and I really like having the router mounted on the wall, taking up very little space.
My network needs:
Laptop (wireless)
kitchen comp (wireless)
7 comps mining, all hardwired 24/7 connection always working.
Server, streaming to HTPC + 2 other comps (wired)
Main gaming comp (wired)
So, I guess my question is;
Are there any decent <$100 routers that have gigabit and won't fail in 2 years?
Is that really too much to ask?
I saw the TP-Link recommendation above for ~$55 from wal-mart. Would this be a reliable option?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/TP-Link-N600-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/21607356
Do any of the linux distros for routers/firewalls work from a usb flash drive so I don't have to have a hard drive?
I read that untangle won't run from a usb drive, is that still the case?
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Mackintire
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If you read this thread you already know the answers:
So here are the highlights.
Manufacturer build quality varies. Early model WDR3700 v1 were very well built as were early model DIR-655. Both were known to last 3-4 years.
Both manufacturers relocated the production to somewhere cheaper to make more profit on their margins....build quality also suffered in the move.
The only model I know of that is consumer class and has consistant build quality are the apple airport extreme routers, But in typical Apple fashion most of the features are locked down. So if you want features to tinker with....well you can not have them. LAN to LAN routing is about 650Mbps.
If you want a kick butt router that will last years look at a Zyxel Zywall 110, but expect to spend $350 for one. Also it's not made for a noobie, so consider yourself forwarned. Used as a switch it will route at approx. 350Mbps. But you're really paying for VPN performance and the reliability/build quality.
Ubiquiti Edge routers are dirt cheap and very capable. No one knows how long they will last as they haven't been around for more than a year. But I would consider them a step up from the consumer class routers. The GUI is extremely limiting and the learning curve is extremely steep at the moment. Used at a switch it will route at full line speed 1Gbps.
Routerboards Router OS boxes are capable, but are not known for their reliability.
Used as a switch it will route at various speeds, but most models below $300 will route at or below 100Mbps when all packet sizes are averaged.
An old used ASA5505 would be an ironclad option but I wouldn t recommend it for anyone with a faster than 100Mbps connection, nor would I recommend using it as your core switch. Which is something most home users do.
In the consumer category, The ASUS RT-N16 will route at 300Mbps and should last 2-3 years avg, but costs $88. The ASUS RT-N66 routes around 800Mbps and will cost a fifty bucks more. Both of the ASUS routers above have the merlin firmware available and the tomato firmware as an alternative. The ASUS RT-AC68 ($220( has a faster CPU and slighyly better performance and the Netgear Nighthawk ($200) has the fastest processor in a consumer grade router.
For the cash the two ASUS routers are the overall best buy. $88 and $125
The Zyxel Zywall 110 is the best VPN router at $350
802.11AC is still in draft spec, so I can not endorse any AC router as the best. Once the final spec is published and the manufacturers push out compliant firmware I'll be willing to give a consensus on which one of those is the best.
So here are the highlights.
Manufacturer build quality varies. Early model WDR3700 v1 were very well built as were early model DIR-655. Both were known to last 3-4 years.
Both manufacturers relocated the production to somewhere cheaper to make more profit on their margins....build quality also suffered in the move.
The only model I know of that is consumer class and has consistant build quality are the apple airport extreme routers, But in typical Apple fashion most of the features are locked down. So if you want features to tinker with....well you can not have them. LAN to LAN routing is about 650Mbps.
If you want a kick butt router that will last years look at a Zyxel Zywall 110, but expect to spend $350 for one. Also it's not made for a noobie, so consider yourself forwarned. Used as a switch it will route at approx. 350Mbps. But you're really paying for VPN performance and the reliability/build quality.
Ubiquiti Edge routers are dirt cheap and very capable. No one knows how long they will last as they haven't been around for more than a year. But I would consider them a step up from the consumer class routers. The GUI is extremely limiting and the learning curve is extremely steep at the moment. Used at a switch it will route at full line speed 1Gbps.
Routerboards Router OS boxes are capable, but are not known for their reliability.
Used as a switch it will route at various speeds, but most models below $300 will route at or below 100Mbps when all packet sizes are averaged.
An old used ASA5505 would be an ironclad option but I wouldn t recommend it for anyone with a faster than 100Mbps connection, nor would I recommend using it as your core switch. Which is something most home users do.
In the consumer category, The ASUS RT-N16 will route at 300Mbps and should last 2-3 years avg, but costs $88. The ASUS RT-N66 routes around 800Mbps and will cost a fifty bucks more. Both of the ASUS routers above have the merlin firmware available and the tomato firmware as an alternative. The ASUS RT-AC68 ($220( has a faster CPU and slighyly better performance and the Netgear Nighthawk ($200) has the fastest processor in a consumer grade router.
For the cash the two ASUS routers are the overall best buy. $88 and $125
The Zyxel Zywall 110 is the best VPN router at $350
802.11AC is still in draft spec, so I can not endorse any AC router as the best. Once the final spec is published and the manufacturers push out compliant firmware I'll be willing to give a consensus on which one of those is the best.
It all boils down to at what approach you want to use to tackle this problem
First of all, v4 (no OpenWRT Support) > v2 > v1 > v3 (no OpenWRT support) by far regarding the WNDR3700 by far. As far as build quality goes its just as bad/or good depending on how you want to look at it. In all honesty, given the routers I'd been tasked to "fix" during the years most die due to the PSU, not the hardware itself.
The EdgeRouter Lite is pretty good, I have a few in production running FreeBSD which I'm much more comfortable with than its original Linux dist. Given this its a bit more flexible but its not that fast, regular routing is ~400mbit in total (WAN-LAN) using software. You can use hardware NAT but it will break certain things such as SIP/VOIP, this is also true using Atheros/QCAs hardware NAT. Downside is that FreeBSD doesn't have a fancy GUI which I personally don't mind but it lacks shaping atm. Regarding the build quality I'd rate it just as good/bsd as your consumer router, Ubnt did have severe quality issues with the earlier batches. It handles OpenVPN etc run but dont expect any speed records...
Mikrotik uses the same Atheros/QCA hardware as the Netgear models and TP-Link ones (just to mention a few) on their low/mid-end models, the main difference is the RouterOS. It's pretty good but its not for everyone and as a home user you wouldn't need any of the extra features at all most likely. The cheaper models also support OpenWRT but in that case you're better off buying/using a TP-Link or Netgear unit as they're usually cheaper and easier to come by.
No experience with the ASA's but given the pro-Cisco users on these forums I'd guess its decent, I'd probably look at the Juniper countparts but dont expect any user friendly interface and no fancy features such as DDNS, OpenVPN, upnp(?) etc. Not really recommended for home/residential connections IMHO.
The Asus routers are pretty good in terms of performance, they are however bad if you want to run third party firmwares and have some odd issues from time to time. If you're looking for a OpenWRT-friendly platform stay away and go for TP-Link or a supported model by Netgear or D-Link. The N66 is a waste of money in my opinion, go with the WDR3600 and you'll have more than enough performance to handle a fast/decent residential connection. Given the numbers of the RT-N66 I'd guess that these are using HW-NAT and as I said, it may break a few things so be a bit careful as software acceleration will be about half the speed.
If I were you, I'd go for a WDR3600 or if I wanted a powerhouse WDR4900 by TP-Link although the WDR4900 can be a bit hard to find in the US.
Zywalls are nice but overkill/not worth it at home.
//Danne
First of all, v4 (no OpenWRT Support) > v2 > v1 > v3 (no OpenWRT support) by far regarding the WNDR3700 by far. As far as build quality goes its just as bad/or good depending on how you want to look at it. In all honesty, given the routers I'd been tasked to "fix" during the years most die due to the PSU, not the hardware itself.
The EdgeRouter Lite is pretty good, I have a few in production running FreeBSD which I'm much more comfortable with than its original Linux dist. Given this its a bit more flexible but its not that fast, regular routing is ~400mbit in total (WAN-LAN) using software. You can use hardware NAT but it will break certain things such as SIP/VOIP, this is also true using Atheros/QCAs hardware NAT. Downside is that FreeBSD doesn't have a fancy GUI which I personally don't mind but it lacks shaping atm. Regarding the build quality I'd rate it just as good/bsd as your consumer router, Ubnt did have severe quality issues with the earlier batches. It handles OpenVPN etc run but dont expect any speed records...
Mikrotik uses the same Atheros/QCA hardware as the Netgear models and TP-Link ones (just to mention a few) on their low/mid-end models, the main difference is the RouterOS. It's pretty good but its not for everyone and as a home user you wouldn't need any of the extra features at all most likely. The cheaper models also support OpenWRT but in that case you're better off buying/using a TP-Link or Netgear unit as they're usually cheaper and easier to come by.
No experience with the ASA's but given the pro-Cisco users on these forums I'd guess its decent, I'd probably look at the Juniper countparts but dont expect any user friendly interface and no fancy features such as DDNS, OpenVPN, upnp(?) etc. Not really recommended for home/residential connections IMHO.
The Asus routers are pretty good in terms of performance, they are however bad if you want to run third party firmwares and have some odd issues from time to time. If you're looking for a OpenWRT-friendly platform stay away and go for TP-Link or a supported model by Netgear or D-Link. The N66 is a waste of money in my opinion, go with the WDR3600 and you'll have more than enough performance to handle a fast/decent residential connection. Given the numbers of the RT-N66 I'd guess that these are using HW-NAT and as I said, it may break a few things so be a bit careful as software acceleration will be about half the speed.
If I were you, I'd go for a WDR3600 or if I wanted a powerhouse WDR4900 by TP-Link although the WDR4900 can be a bit hard to find in the US.
Zywalls are nice but overkill/not worth it at home.
//Danne
No, I haven't. I will try that tonight. Why would the router work for about 18 months, and then start dropping connections? That would indicate hardware failure to me. I'm still using the stock firmware, because frankly I have no idea what features I'd need with a router.
To be completely honest, I have pretty much zero knowledge for router features. I am hesitant to spend $150+ on an Asus router primarily because of the customer support stories. Plus, getting close to $200 puts me into territory where I can just build a little dedicated router with pfSense or some other OS.
I guess I will buy the TP link router on my way home, try flashing the firmware on my 3700, and see if it's stable before I open the TP link 3600.
One last quick question;
Since I will be getting my 24 port TP lInk gigabit switch tomorrow (TL-SG1024), does it matter (better or worse) if I plug all devices into it?
Will all data go through the router no matter what? Should I plug my server into the router and everything else into the switch? or should i have the server plugged into the switch for better performance to other comps plugged into the switch?
Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. Sorry I'm such a noob at routers, I just haven't had the time to learn about all the features.
As your wireless devices usually get firmware updates (phones, gaming consoles etc) their behavior may be a bit different than before which the wifi driver on the router might not handle as good as it should. Many wireless routers/access points have issues with Apple devices for instance which is afaik caused by their way of doing energy efficient wifi signal signaling that may require a firmware upgrade.
//Danne
//Danne
Im a bit disappointed by the Asus RT-N16 router in terms of signal/range. Based on posts here by several members I was under the assumption that this Asus would have a bit better wifi range/signal strength vs my old linksys. However, this is not true. My cousin who lives next door in a home that is a copy of the home I live in has his PC/router in the exact same location as me. They are running a Netgear wmr2000 (which has 0 external antennas vs asus 3) of which I can connect to from my home & get a better signal from. The homes are brick so I find it odd that I can get a better signal from his home through brick & 2 wooden fences being much farther from his router & not within my home thru sheetrock...Also, I have gone to his home & the places in my home where I get only 1-2 wifi bars I get 3 in his...Is there something I may need to modify? I noticed under wireless mode its under auto, should this be "N only"? Once again I appreciate the help.
Mackintire
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Dizzy's comments on the Apple devices about their power management are 100% accurate.
The difference in the antenna arrays for the Netgear verses the Asus mentioned are due to the radiation patterns of the antenna arrays. Netgear has 4 or 6 antennas internal on the PCB board. Since they have 100% control over the antenna array angles, they optimize the signal for the expected area. The asus units have more primitive antennas. The only thing the ASUS gets you is the ability to change the antennas if you don't like what they have to offer. I picked up 3 6db gain antennas off of ebay to get signal in one of my customer's house for their rotuer last year. It cost $12, but it was worth the two extra bars of signal.
Wireless mode set to auto means it will allow any wireless protocol to connect B G or N.
Whenever something slower connects everytime that device's beacon goes off all the other wireless devices slow down to that slower speed. So if you have one wireless B device connected to a wireless N access point everyone on the wireless will end up with wireless B speeds everytime the wireless B client talks to the AP.
11G/N is one step better than auto, but you lose the ability for a wireless B device to connect.
Wireless N only, will ensure all devices are running wireless N and maintain running the N protocol, but will then not allow any B or G devices to connect.
The difference in the antenna arrays for the Netgear verses the Asus mentioned are due to the radiation patterns of the antenna arrays. Netgear has 4 or 6 antennas internal on the PCB board. Since they have 100% control over the antenna array angles, they optimize the signal for the expected area. The asus units have more primitive antennas. The only thing the ASUS gets you is the ability to change the antennas if you don't like what they have to offer. I picked up 3 6db gain antennas off of ebay to get signal in one of my customer's house for their rotuer last year. It cost $12, but it was worth the two extra bars of signal.
Wireless mode set to auto means it will allow any wireless protocol to connect B G or N.
Whenever something slower connects everytime that device's beacon goes off all the other wireless devices slow down to that slower speed. So if you have one wireless B device connected to a wireless N access point everyone on the wireless will end up with wireless B speeds everytime the wireless B client talks to the AP.
11G/N is one step better than auto, but you lose the ability for a wireless B device to connect.
Wireless N only, will ensure all devices are running wireless N and maintain running the N protocol, but will then not allow any B or G devices to connect.
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Mackintire
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If your interested in that particular antenna array and want to experiment without dropping significant cash You could buy this: http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Refur...=UTF8&qid=1387257495&sr=8-11&keywords=netgear
Turn off the routing/firewall/DHCP function and use it as a AP only. Same radio as the newer model, with less onboard CPU and RAM. You just plug a LAN port from your ASUS router into a LAN port on this one and use it as your AP.
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Flyinfinni
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Hey all- what are your thoughts about the N66U and AC66U? I'm trying to decide between the 2 to replace my old router which has finally died. As far as I can tell, they seem pretty similar all around with the notable N vs. AC, which I'm not really seeing as being that beneficial at this point. So are there things I'm missing here that make the AC66U worth the extra $$ over the N66U? Tried to look through this thread and didn't see a good answer.
Mackintire
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The AC unit can use the draft AC protocol as ASUS implemented it. There is a price difference between the two. If you have AC draft devices you may want to go for it, if it makes sense to you. The only gotcha is that 802.11ac is currently draft spec. It is possible for the final spec to be only partially compatible, with the devices on the market or only implement some of the features that the final spec includes.
AKA you're the beta tester....we think this is how its going to be....it works with most AC devices fairly well, but we can not claim 100% 802.11ac spec compatibility.
Flyinfinni
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Right. I understand this part, and I know I don't have any AC devices. I was mostly curious if you guys knew of any other improvements or features of the ac66u that would be reasons to choose it over the n66u
The v3 has been replaced with the v4 (and they have gone back to Atheros) - also, the v4 is supported by DD-WRT. However, if you don't need QoS, the factory firmware is as solid as it gets (the one feature I used in DD-WRT with my old WRT54GS - IPv6 - is supported by the v4's factory firmware; you only need to enable it). This particular v4 is in the basement and covers it, the main floor, and second floor - two wired desktops and two wireless FPTVs from Samsung, in the basement and second floor, along with family portables when they visit (including tablets and the odd wireless smartphone). The wired ports - all of them - are gigabit. My v4 replaced the Marvell-driven original WNR-3500 - it's so bad, I can't even convert it into a WAP.
I flashed the firmware on the WNDR3700, and the wifi still doesn't work. I tried 2 different wifi adapters in the kitchen computer, and both can see the network, but will not connect. I hadn't changed anything before the problem started occurring.
Also, the kindle & android tablet & phone won't connect. That tells me it wasn't a firmware or software change in the devices. Anyhow, wal-mart didn't have the TPlink router in stock, so I just ordered it from amazon.
My problem looks to be the same as this thread:
http://forum1.netgear.com/showthread.php?t=73726
Basically, the wireless transmitter inside many of the Netgear WNDR3700 routers dies after a year or two.
Also, the kindle & android tablet & phone won't connect. That tells me it wasn't a firmware or software change in the devices. Anyhow, wal-mart didn't have the TPlink router in stock, so I just ordered it from amazon.
My problem looks to be the same as this thread:
http://forum1.netgear.com/showthread.php?t=73726
Basically, the wireless transmitter inside many of the Netgear WNDR3700 routers dies after a year or two.
Mackintire: how much do those anntenas help that you mentioned in terms of range? I need a guaranteed extend in the range & not just extra bars...Also, today I saw what is called a range extender. How effective are these things? I noticed they are also pretty pricey: around 49-60 bux..Im just kinda shocked the asus range is not a good bit better over my old linksys..
Also, I Have not yet flashed my asus router. By flashing what do I actually gain? & what is best to flash ?
Also, I Have not yet flashed my asus router. By flashing what do I actually gain? & what is best to flash ?
Mackintire
2[H]4U
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As I indicated earlier, there is only so much legal output power a router can put out. You can user different antennas or the manufacturer can create an different array.
A 1-2db gain Omni-directional antenna (the most common type) has a spherical distribution of radiation. For a Omni type antenna as the listed db goes up that sphere gets smooshed into more of a donut shape at 9db gain, there is almost no power output being radiated up or down. The range horizontally has been extended but now no one above or below the router can get a good signal. A 6db type antenna would give you twice the output power horizontally and cut it equally above and below. If your three antennas are arranged as I suggested you will loose slightly less and gain slightly less but you should still gain more range and have more acceptable losses above and below the router. If you are only concerned about the one floor at max distance, consider the 9db antennas. The nice part is that both sensitivity and range goes up. Without some expensive wireless surveying and test equipment no one can give you an exact answer on how much you will gain.
6db gain: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-WZR-HP-G450H-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B00E9DN2D6/ref=sr_1_17?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1387342456&sr=1-17
9db gain: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-WZR-HP-G450H-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B00DMJI9TA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1387342456&sr=1-1
I would use the merlin firmware.....as it is almost identical looking to the factory firmware. It's full of bug fixes and will probably give you the best wireless output.
You can download the merlin firmware here: http://www.lostrealm.ca/tower/node/79
If you can physically wire in the range extender....go for it. If you can't.....well then...properly configured It will extend your range but the throughput will be 1/4 the rated link speed.
A 1-2db gain Omni-directional antenna (the most common type) has a spherical distribution of radiation. For a Omni type antenna as the listed db goes up that sphere gets smooshed into more of a donut shape at 9db gain, there is almost no power output being radiated up or down. The range horizontally has been extended but now no one above or below the router can get a good signal. A 6db type antenna would give you twice the output power horizontally and cut it equally above and below. If your three antennas are arranged as I suggested you will loose slightly less and gain slightly less but you should still gain more range and have more acceptable losses above and below the router. If you are only concerned about the one floor at max distance, consider the 9db antennas. The nice part is that both sensitivity and range goes up. Without some expensive wireless surveying and test equipment no one can give you an exact answer on how much you will gain.
6db gain: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-WZR-HP-G450H-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B00E9DN2D6/ref=sr_1_17?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1387342456&sr=1-17
9db gain: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-WZR-HP-G450H-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B00DMJI9TA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1387342456&sr=1-1
I would use the merlin firmware.....as it is almost identical looking to the factory firmware. It's full of bug fixes and will probably give you the best wireless output.
You can download the merlin firmware here: http://www.lostrealm.ca/tower/node/79
If you can physically wire in the range extender....go for it. If you can't.....well then...properly configured It will extend your range but the throughput will be 1/4 the rated link speed.
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